Nitrous Install on Cobra Jet manifold **Pic heavy** - Mustang Evolution

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Old 09-02-2016, 02:16 PM   #1
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Nitrous Install on Cobra Jet manifold **Pic heavy**

I posted this over on another forum and though I would share it here. Hope it helps others who have questions on what all is needed to safely run nitrous.

Installed everything over 2 weekends. I did all the solenoid and lines on one and the wiring on the next. I have got to say that wiring everything was the PITA out of the entire install.

Parts used during install:
- Nitrous Outlet Plate kit
- Nitrous Outlet Stage 2 Accessories Kit:
  • Heated Bottle Bracket
  • Purge Kit w/aluminum tubing
  • Blow down tube
- Roush AC vent pod
- Innovate PSN1 controller
- 100ft of red wire, 50ft of black wire, 25ft of green wire(didn't use all of it, but what's included in the kit is not enough)
- 3 inline fuse holders w/30a fuses
- 2 add a circuits(for 12v switched source)
- Terminal rings x10(they come in a pack)
- Heat shrink tubing

Nitrous Kit (I did have to have the fuel rail adapter swapped by Nitrous Outlet bc they included a angled one for the GT500)


Nitrous solenoid plumbing. I really wish they included a fitting to let you attach the fuel solenoid directly to the fuel rail adapter bc it would of made mounting a lot easier.


I painted the little bracket with black plastidip to get them to blend in a little better


Nitrous plate installed and hoses were snaked through the runner to take up the slack in the lines. Also wrapped everything in wire loom to keep an overall clean appearance


Wires up the weather pack connector to the bottle heater pressure unit. I will prob go back and remove the connector and just use wire. Instructions weren't clear on where connector goes, but I feel it would be better used on the bottle heater wires instead.


Nitrous line, 12v battery wire, and gauge pressure line routed under back seat and under the door sill.


Here is how everything in the trunk was wired. The thin black wire is for the gauges pressure unit. It had just enough line to reach the gauge.


Nitrous Outlet switch panel


Here is the back on the console switch panel, all the wires were routed through the center assembly and snaked around so the e-brake wouldn't pull any of the wires.


Innovate PSN1 gauge


All the wiring for the PSN1 gauge. All the wires are green but properly labelled. The red wire is from for the WOT microswitch and black is a ground for the switch panel.


Roush gauge pod installed


Here are the 3 battery wires that connect to the battery. Each one has a 30a fuse


This is the mess of wires I had to deal with, again, labeling is the key to staying sane


Here is a pic of all the wires neatly tucked and wire loomed. I was really wanting to keep this install as clean as possible. The relays are all attached on the right side behind the strut tower.


Gauge is powered on and working(as good as it will work with out a tach adapter that is)


Final engine bay lay out.




Something to note about the PSN1 is that you want to use the fuel injector (+) wire for the tach signal. Do not use the Ignition Coil, the signal is way too dirty and will cause the gauge to stop responding and freeze. I swapped to the injector and it has not frozen yet.
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Old 09-03-2016, 01:34 PM   #2
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If that manifold is ( M-9424-M50CJ )
According to this website www.performanceparts.ford.com/part
â—¾Nitrous oxide not recommended for use with this manifold
.
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Old 09-03-2016, 01:51 PM   #3
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That's just CYA because it's a plastic intake. Lots of people use N2O with the CJ.
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2014 Premium GT, SGM, Brembo, Auto, Tech, Comfort, etc. GT500s, Steeda UCA, VMP auto N/A tune. 100 shot nitrous on BBR tune. Best e/t 11.42 at 120.64

2012 Premium GT, Candy Red, Brembo package, 3.73, MT82, Comfort, Tech, et al. Procal tune, Roush UCA, UMI poly LCA, GT500s, Steeda red bracket, Hoosier 28x10x16 bias drags. Best e/t 11.91 at 115.23 RIP
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Old 09-03-2016, 02:26 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1 Alibi 2 View Post
If that manifold is ( M-9424-M50CJ )
According to this website www.performanceparts.ford.com/part
â—¾Nitrous oxide not recommended for use with this manifold
.
That's because it's a plastic 2 piece manifold, just like the Boss manifold, you can run nitrous on it no problem. Just make sure your window switch is working so you can avoid any fuel puddling. A backfire will kill a plastic manifold
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Old 09-03-2016, 02:43 PM   #5
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Usually it'll kill a metal one, too....
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2014 Premium GT, SGM, Brembo, Auto, Tech, Comfort, etc. GT500s, Steeda UCA, VMP auto N/A tune. 100 shot nitrous on BBR tune. Best e/t 11.42 at 120.64

2012 Premium GT, Candy Red, Brembo package, 3.73, MT82, Comfort, Tech, et al. Procal tune, Roush UCA, UMI poly LCA, GT500s, Steeda red bracket, Hoosier 28x10x16 bias drags. Best e/t 11.91 at 115.23 RIP
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Old 09-04-2016, 12:52 PM   #6
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Usually it'll kill a metal one, too....
OH YEAH, BOOM!
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Old 09-04-2016, 03:29 PM   #7
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Is there a tune needed to run this kit. Let us know what your run times are like or if you plan to run a dino sheet.
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Old 09-05-2016, 01:51 AM   #8
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Is there a tune needed to run this kit. Let us know what your run times are like or if you plan to run a dino sheet.
Depends, If you are already tune then yes, you will need your tune dialed back a bit for the spray. If you are on a stock tune you can do a 50 shot no problem.

A 100 shot would prob be fine as well. I am running 22* of advance at the moment with knock advance adding 2*. I may add 1 more to see how it does.
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Old 09-05-2016, 07:19 AM   #9
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Hold up there...I wouldn't advise ANY shot of nitrous on a Coyote without tuning adjustments. 50 horse isn't worth the effort and expense on a car as heavy as a Coyote anyway, even if it was safe, which I don't believe it necessarily is. Too much individual variability engine to engine, even on the stock setup.

It's not just pulling a few degrees of timing, it's the engine nannies which can't entirely be switched off without a tune. These can be disastrous if they activate in a nitrous situation.
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2014 Premium GT, SGM, Brembo, Auto, Tech, Comfort, etc. GT500s, Steeda UCA, VMP auto N/A tune. 100 shot nitrous on BBR tune. Best e/t 11.42 at 120.64

2012 Premium GT, Candy Red, Brembo package, 3.73, MT82, Comfort, Tech, et al. Procal tune, Roush UCA, UMI poly LCA, GT500s, Steeda red bracket, Hoosier 28x10x16 bias drags. Best e/t 11.91 at 115.23 RIP
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Old 09-05-2016, 02:28 PM   #10
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Thanks for your input 5LHO
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Old 09-06-2016, 12:55 PM   #11
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Originally Posted by 5LHO View Post
Hold up there...I wouldn't advise ANY shot of nitrous on a Coyote without tuning adjustments. 50 horse isn't worth the effort and expense on a car as heavy as a Coyote anyway, even if it was safe, which I don't believe it necessarily is. Too much individual variability engine to engine, even on the stock setup.

It's not just pulling a few degrees of timing, it's the engine nannies which can't entirely be switched off without a tune. These can be disastrous if they activate in a nitrous situation.
I agree ^^

Datalogging is the key. You should not just bolt it on and expect to be ready to roll. Got to log it and see how it does, make sure window switch is set up correctly and if you are using a TPS activated system you don't have to worry about the ECM closing your throttle since it would also turn the nitrous off. If you are running a micro switch like me that goes behind the pedal then you should for sure have the tune updated to take care of TCS.

Also a 50 shot is not worth the hassle of the install, but it can be felt :p I did my testing on a 50 shot just to make sure everything activated and worked fine and it felt great, not as good as a 100 shot though. Will upload video in a bit with some updated info.
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Old 09-06-2016, 01:18 PM   #12
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Here is some acceleration times between my NA and Nitrous pulls. pulls are from 3rd gear(7k rpm shift) through 4th gear(7400 rpm) w/3.73's

Nitrous Pull:

65mph to 119mph: 6.94 seconds
Pull time minus shift time: 6.01 seconds

N/A pull:

65mph to 119mph: 9.4 seconds
Pull time minus shift time: 8.54 seconds
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Old 09-06-2016, 10:20 PM   #13
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I just had a Nitrous Express kit installed, very similar setup but on Boss manifold. I saved my sanity and paid a shop to do the work, but it wasn't cheap.


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Old 09-06-2016, 10:47 PM   #14
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Nitrous is really easy to install. I have severe rheumatoid arthritis and still did it in about a half day. Granted, it certainly isn't my first time.

I recommend anyone with basic tools try it. It's crazy what shops charge for this relatively easy work.

---------- Post added at 09:47 PM ---------- Previous post was at 09:47 PM ----------

Nitrous is really easy to install. I have severe rheumatoid arthritis and still did it in about a half day. Granted, it certainly isn't my first time.

I recommend anyone with basic tools try it. It's crazy what shops charge for this relatively easy work.
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2014 Premium GT, SGM, Brembo, Auto, Tech, Comfort, etc. GT500s, Steeda UCA, VMP auto N/A tune. 100 shot nitrous on BBR tune. Best e/t 11.42 at 120.64

2012 Premium GT, Candy Red, Brembo package, 3.73, MT82, Comfort, Tech, et al. Procal tune, Roush UCA, UMI poly LCA, GT500s, Steeda red bracket, Hoosier 28x10x16 bias drags. Best e/t 11.91 at 115.23 RIP
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Old 09-07-2016, 12:08 AM   #15
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I don't have the time or I would have done it myself


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Old 09-07-2016, 02:27 PM   #16
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[/COLOR]Nitrous is really easy to install. I have severe rheumatoid arthritis and still did it in about a half day. Granted, it certainly isn't my first time.

I recommend anyone with basic tools try it. It's crazy what shops charge for this relatively easy work.
Yeah the install is not hard at all, just damn tedious and annoying. I hate doing the same work twice so I spend extra time labeling every where and making sure it was all hooked up the way it should go. Ended up splitting the work over 2 weekends.
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