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Dynamat

4K views 12 replies 8 participants last post by  RWSRWS 
#1 ·
I'm seriously considering insulating my 2014 with Dynamat or some other sound insulator. Has anyone done this? I love to hear the roar of the motor, however, it's my understanding that with a little insulation in the doors and under the back seat, the stereo really comes alive and even the exhaust note sounds better. Does anyone have experience with this? If so, I'd love to know how it worked for you. Thanks in advance!
 
#2 ·
Nomad, I haven't done my Mustang yet, but just finished my F150. I have also done my C6 Corvette and Nissan 350Z. You can expect about 5DB sound reduction, and an overall decrease of rattles and road noise. If you are going big on your stereo upgrades you may want to also add an acoustic foam on top of the Dynamat. The exhaust note will still be there but will be smooth and mellow. It is a little tedious to do it well, but not difficult. Get an excellent set of shears to cut it, the roller that Dynamat offers, and definitely wear gloves-the edges are sharp!
 
#4 ·
One small kit under the center console and back seat cuts down on a lot of road noise and doesn't add much weight. Best of both worlds.
 
#5 ·
I've used dynamat on almost all the cars I've had for the last twenty years and recommend it to help cut road noise and the tinny sound the newer cars suffer from due to the thin metal skin and lack of factory insulation. The weight addition is really not that bad as you don't need to cover every inch just enough to soak up the sound or the tinny areas. My two cents.....
 
#6 ·
The benefits to a heavily upgraded audio system are great - especially when combined with the use of closed cell foam and mass loaded vinyl; but that's a whole other can of worms lol.
Constraint layer dampeners (Dynamat and others) work to reduce vibration and resonance mainly by adding mass. Without regard to the audio system, it can cut down on some of the "boominess" in the cabin due to large metal panels resonating at lower frequencies (i.e. exhaust, road hum).
To me, without a major audio upgrade it would not be worth the expense or the effort.
If you decide it is for you, keep in mind there are less expensive brands that have been shown to outperform Dynamat. I've done a fair amount of research in sound deadening methods/materials before treating my own Mustang. For CLD I used Knukonceptz Kolossus 100mil and it worked extremely well. Bear in mind my aim was maximizing the audio system, as the exhaust and existing cabin noise was not an issue for me.

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#7 · (Edited)
Dynama is a great product. I used it in the restoration of my 1965 Ford F100 and it sure made a difference in sound insulation and heat. My 2012 Shelby GT500 has a noticeable amount of exhaust sound with some heat that comes up through the floorboard. It certainly would be a worthwhile modification. Unfortunatley I would have to have it done because of health issues. That would be a lots of work removing the seats and carpet. https://www.flickr.com/photos/142668944@N03/albums/72157669483056500
 
#8 ·
In my old Eclipse GST I had it modified with upgraded T3/T4 turbo and a complete exhaust from the headers back with test pipes on it. It was loud as fawk and I dynamat the trunk and the floor and center console. Also did the back of the rear flip down seats and the rear haunches by the seats.

Did it help with noise.... no. The car was lowered with Konis and poly bushings. I used three rolls of dynamat and it was barely enough. Each of those rolls weighed like 25lbs. This and I didn't even touch the doors or the front dash.

At least for me, it was a waste of money. The car became a pig and I felt it in the corners as well as accelerating. Big difference not really but marginally I felt a negative effect and for the actual amount of noise cancellation it was not worth it.

Just my ¢2


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#9 ·
DallasStang77, you can add dynamat layer upon layer and still not get much reduction in noise - just reduction in vibration and resonance. To lower the sound floor you have to use other materials - mass loaded vinyl combined with a closed-cell foam insulator will give the best reduction.

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#11 ·
Exactly. To do all that will further increase weight. Just depends on what you want. If I wanted a quiet ride I would have gotten a Lexus or a Camry. If I wanted mpg I would have gotten a civic or Prius.

A stock mustang isn't that loud or rough.


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#10 ·
30 - 50% coverage of your larger, thinner panels (those most prone to resonance) is all that's needed. Any more is really overkill and will definitely add a lot of unnecessary pounds.
I've done it too, and also learned the hard way lol
It's a science, and definitely can be tedious but pretty good results can be had when done correctly without too much of a weight penalty.

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#12 ·
All the above good info! If you are running an exhaust above 95 DB for example, 5DB is not going to quiet it noticeably, though it will reduce rattles and soften any drone you may have somewhat. The acoustic foam on top of it seems to help with overall noise and doesn't add near the weight. I think the above advice to cover selective panels is probably the best bet, keeping overall additional mass weight to maybe 25# or so max. My 2013 Boss has had sound attenuation removed from it from the factory. I bought it slightly used and wanted to amp up the sound a little, so unbolted the side pipes to remove the restrictors and found they were already gone! Even with Corsa Extremes I don't find the cabin noise excessive at all. This is probably the most rattle free, solid car I have ever owned with maybe the exception of my 3 series BMW, which happened to be Ford's target for this car. I don't think I'll be adding any Dynamat to this one! Dynamat will help, just don't expect a miracle transformation.
 
#13 ·
Gentlemen,

There is a DIFFERENCE between road noise and exhaust noise.

Reducing the road noise will enhance the exhaust note and make it a bit IMHO "sweeter"

I did Dynamat INSIDE the doors(attached to the indide of the door skins) front floor, center console tunnel,, driveshaft tunnel and trunk.

It all started when I decided to remove the quarter windows and replace them with the AWESOME Silverhorse Racing quarter window louvers. This required removal of half the rear interior of the car, so while I was there.........

yeah, while I was there I also swapped out the rear shelf factory speakers and the factory door speakers.

This car has the GT500 exhausts and with the Dynamat & silverhorse windows, she now looks, sounds and yes, feels like a million bucks.

HOLY WRAP - she's a better animal than my '69 stang I had 40 years ago!!!

RWSRWS

---------- Post added at 08:12 AM ---------- Previous post was at 08:12 AM ----------

Gentlemen,

There is a DIFFERENCE between road noise and exhaust noise.

Reducing the road noise will enhance the exhaust note and make it a bit IMHO "sweeter"

I did Dynamat INSIDE the doors(attached to the indide of the door skins) front floor, center console tunnel,, driveshaft tunnel and trunk.

It all started when I decided to remove the quarter windows and replace them with the AWESOME Silverhorse Racing quarter window louvers. This required removal of half the rear interior of the car, so while I was there.........

yeah, while I was there I also swapped out the rear shelf factory speakers and the factory door speakers.

This car has the GT500 exhausts and with the Dynamat & silverhorse windows, she now looks, sounds and yes, feels like a million bucks.

HOLY WRAP - she's a better animal than my '69 stang I had 40 years ago!!!

RWSRWS
 
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