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Old 10-30-2016, 10:28 AM   #1
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2013 suspension upgrade

Hey everyone, I had some questions and I was hoping some of you could assist me.

Situation: stockpiling some parts for when I get home from overseas to upgrade the suspension on my 2013 gt. I used to work as a bulldozer undercarriage tech when I was younger, but that knowledge doesn't translate much to cars.

First off, I was hoping if someone can validate the quality of the parts I'm looking at. I'm buying a set of koni str-t shocks/struts, bmr sp009 lowering springs, and an adjustable panhard bar.

Question 2, will I need to adjust the camber after lowering?

Final question, does someone have some good guides on installing this because this is my first time messing with my own suspension.
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Old 10-30-2016, 10:54 AM   #2
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Are the koni yellows or orange? Yes the bmr lowering springs are a great choice I run them in my car. you will need an alignment when you lower the vehicle.

Also you might want to get the gt500 strut mounts and rotate the mount so the arrow is pointing towards the car or the cc plates to adjust the camber, the stock strut mounts will disintegrate once your remove the struts
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Old 10-30-2016, 11:03 AM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Joaquin_ii View Post
Are the koni yellows or orange? Yes the bmr lowering springs are a great choice I run them in my car. you will need an alignment when you lower the vehicle.

Also you might want to get the gt500 strut mounts and rotate the mount so the arrow is pointing towards the car or the cc plates to adjust the camber, the stock strut mounts will disintegrate once your remove the struts
The konis are orange. What's the difference?
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Old 10-30-2016, 11:09 AM   #4
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yellows are adjustable...they were my choice. I'm sure you'll be fine but there have been issues with the orange ones squeeking.

consider getting a rear lca relocation bracket. yes you will want an alignment after lowering it.
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Old 10-30-2016, 11:17 AM   #5
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Another question. I know a lot of the bolts/nuts are supposedly marked one time use only by ford. Did anyone of you reuse the hardware, and if you didn't where is the best place to order the appropriate parts?
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Old 10-30-2016, 05:19 PM   #6
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I reused all my hardware when i pulled out my struts. just be carefull and you should be fine. im a tech at a ford dealer. if you look on fords workshop manual almost anything steering/suspension related it tells you to throw away the nuts/bolts, that they are a 1 time use only. if you wanted to get new hardware you would need to get from ford
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Old 10-30-2016, 06:21 PM   #7
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I'll try to add a little to what has already been said.
As far as "good guides", I would suggest internet searches including Youtube. There are a lot of installation videos kicking around. Here's a sample I found quickly.

Installing springs...


This one replaces front spring from strut without using springs compression clamps by releasing top mount before removing assembly from car.


Here's one using gt500 strut mounts...(with 2005 - 2010 struts)


Now as far as using the GT500 strut mounts, that's not a bad idea but you can't use 2011 - 2014 struts. You will have to use the 2005 - 2010 struts due to the different strut shafts required to be compatible with the GT500 mounts. Believe you can find more info on this subject on this forum as well as American Muscle write-up with the GT500 mounts. That last video addresses it as well.
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Old 10-30-2016, 07:29 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by feebs View Post
The konis are orange. What's the difference?


Quote:
Originally Posted by Strange Mud View Post
yellows are adjustable...they were my choice. I'm sure you'll be fine but there have been issues with the orange ones squeeking.

consider getting a rear lca relocation bracket. yes you will want an alignment after lowering it.

This. the oranges have been having issues for as long as I've been in this forum and it seems maybe once a month someone comments on them being messed up, go yellow they are worth it, i put them on and adjust them when ever I start auto X or the strip.
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Old 10-30-2016, 07:40 PM   #9
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So I'm just going to say that I ( as in my opinion) feel like your list is incomplete to properly lower your vehicle.

1. Lowering springs (obvs)
2. Shock and strut (stock ones aren't meant for the drop)
3. Gt500 strut mounts or cc plates ( stock ones are not reusable trust me!! )
4. LCA relocation brackets (fixes the geometry of the control arm to be parallel with ground)
5. UCA adjustable (fixes pinion angle after drop)
6. Adjustable Panhand bar (fixes geometry of the rear end since it will move to one side)
7. A 6 pack of your favorite beer

The above I fee is a must for every drop for it to be properly and safely done.

Optional- LCA non adjustable (helps with wheel hop)

Now that being said I do understand everyone has different budgets it took me a year to be able to buy all that but it was worth it.


TL;DR - read it
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Old 10-30-2016, 11:06 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Diehard View Post

Now as far as using the GT500 strut mounts, that's not a bad idea but you can't use 2011 - 2014 struts. You will have to use the 2005 - 2010 struts due to the different strut shafts required to be compatible with the GT500 mounts. Believe you can find more info on this subject on this forum as well as American Muscle write-up with the GT500 mounts. That last video addresses it as well.
So if the gt500 mounts only work with 05-10 struts, and I'm already getting 11-14 struts, should I buy oem strut mounts to replace the ones I take off? I keep hearing the old ones will be near useless when I take it off.

So, my list of parts I'm getting is now at:
Koni shocks/struts
Bmr springs
Adjustable panhard bar
Lca relocation brackets
(Possibly) camber plates. I'm gonna read into those more
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Old 10-31-2016, 12:21 AM   #11
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The stock mounts don't always come apart, but they sometimes do. They can be put back together if they come apart, carefully. Or, rule out any possibilities of being stuck with a torn apart car by making sure you have new ones on hand.


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Old 10-31-2016, 04:24 AM   #12
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I re-used my bolts...I would get aftermarket strut mounts (I used Steeda) but if you want my OEM mounts that had something over 20K on them I'll sell them cheap. But get upgraded ones. fwiw I took over a year to collect everything....the wait was worth it. Suspension was my fav upgrade
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Old 10-31-2016, 04:49 AM   #13
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I re-used my bolts...I would get aftermarket strut mounts (I used Steeda) but if you want my OEM mounts that had something over 20K on them I'll sell them cheap. But get upgraded ones. fwiw I took over a year to collect everything....the wait was worth it. Suspension was my fav upgrade
I think I'll try my luck with the mounts on it, and if they fall apart I'll order some replacement oem mounts. I've got a motorcycle I can ride until they come in if it comes down to it. Suspension is killing the bank right now, but I want to have as much of the parts as possible ordered so I can put them on when this deployment I'm on is over; a coming home present to myself. Hopefully next year I'll have a reenlistment bonus coming big enough to pay off the car. Then this $400 a month I'm paying on it now can go straight to parts.

I'm about to buy the shocks, struts, springs, and panhard bar all of a guy that's selling them for $450 together and he agreed to drop them off at my home since I obviously can't pick them up. Seemed like a good deal.
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Old 11-03-2016, 07:57 PM   #14
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I'm also stock piling parts for when I lower mine in April.

Votgland Springs 1.25" (all 4)
BMR Panhard (adjustable, poly bushing)
BMR LCA Relos
BMR LCA (Poly, adjustable)
BMR UCA (Poly, adjustable)
BMR UCA mount
BMR Pumpkin bushing (Poly)
J&M Caster Camber plates
Koni Yellows (Adjustable)

BMR is having a 15% OFF SALE for Thanksgiving......
I have discount codes for about every place that sells Mustang parts.
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Old 11-05-2016, 09:05 AM   #15
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I'm also stock piling parts for when I lower mine in April.

BMR LCA (Poly, adjustable)
.
Is there a reason you are going with adjustable lcas?
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Old 11-06-2016, 02:24 AM   #16
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So the struts, shocks, springs, and adjustable panhard bar came in. I'm going to order some lca relocation brackets as well. Do you guys things that will be sufficient for a drop at the moment? The guy who I bought them off of said he didn't require any adjustment to the camber when he lowered, but I'm not so sure.
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Old 11-06-2016, 03:52 PM   #17
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some do...some don't. I bought some Steeda mounts that were used/not used for a good price. I believe in doing a job 1x as if you end up needing them it's a pain and the cost of another alignment.

keep your eyes open...black friday is coming up soon.
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Old 11-07-2016, 09:07 AM   #18
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Is there a reason you are going with adjustable lcas?
If needed I'd like to be able to adjust them.
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Old 11-07-2016, 10:35 AM   #19
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If needed I'd like to be able to adjust them.
You won't need to.

And how come you aren't getting the BMR springs?
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Old 11-07-2016, 10:47 PM   #20
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One thing to keep in mind is that when you lower your Mustang with the stock 2 piece driveline you could change the pinion angle...this should be checked before your lower the car and after to make sure. Kind of the same with the distance from the wheel to body on both sides of the car before and after you lower the car. The adjustable panhard will take care of this and recenter everything...when doing any chassis work on a car...new or old...take measurements before and after...just a good rule of thumb.
I see a lot of people change the LCA's without doing anything to the UCA. If you've ever seen how much abuse these bushings get I believe you would want something other than the marshmallow rubber bushings especially the pumpkin bushing...on my 14 with less than 10k miles it was already starting to split and separate...so any adjustable UCA will work as long as you replace the pumpkin bushing with BMR's EN-001 poly bushing and the adjustable UCA will allow you to change the pinion angle as long as it's not too far off.
Right after I lowered my old 14 with Sportlines I still had wheel hop...I installed adjustable LCA's and after adjusting them my pinion angle was close to spec and the wheel hop was eliminated...I believe this could have accomplished with stock LCA's and an adjustable UCA and pumpkin bushing.
The question is when you start adjusting just one part of the suspension like LCA's and not the single UCA do you put the whole rear suspension in a bind???
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Old 11-08-2016, 01:10 AM   #21
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Are the koni yellows or orange? Yes the bmr lowering springs are a great choice I run them in my car. you will need an alignment when you lower the vehicle.

Also you might want to get the gt500 strut mounts and rotate the mount so the arrow is pointing towards the car or the cc plates to adjust the camber, the stock strut mounts will disintegrate once your remove the struts
Im trying to get my list of suspension mods going as well! Joaquin do you have the Performance BMR Springs or the Handling ones? Im not sure what to go with I was leaning towards Handling since GT is a daily driver
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Old 11-08-2016, 06:01 AM   #22
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strut mounts

You can reuse them.
Pry the mount from the spring right at the point where the upper end of the spring meets the mount. Gently pry it from the spring where the rubber meets the spring holding the top. If you take them off in one piece, they will be fine. If they separate all bets are off, as the ball bearings in there will dislodge and good luck getting them together.
As mention earlier, you cannot use the GT 500 mounts with the 2011+ struts.
The GT 500/05-10 strut mounts are taller than the 11-14 and the 11-14 strut will be extended by 1.5 - 2 inches.
I believe Grabber blue used the GT500's with the 05-10 struts, they were a little cheaper. I think once assembled in that manner the will fit in the strut tower and line up perfectly
If you do want to replace the strut mounts (11-14) they're 38 bucs at Rock auto.
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Old 11-08-2016, 09:43 AM   #23
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If needed I'd like to be able to adjust them.
As grabber mentioned you won't have a need to adjust, could also lead to them not being the same length. But I can see why you want them
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Old 11-08-2016, 09:45 AM   #24
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Im trying to get my list of suspension mods going as well! Joaquin do you have the Performance BMR Springs or the Handling ones? Im not sure what to go with I was leaning towards Handling since GT is a daily driver
I have the handling ones for the same reason you mentioned, I haven't read a post of people comparing them or anything but BMR knows their stuff. What do you have so far?
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Old 11-15-2016, 09:40 PM   #25
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You won't need to.

And how come you aren't getting the BMR springs?
I was going to but I found a decent deal on VotGland springs for $165 shipped.

Quote:
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As grabber mentioned you won't have a need to adjust, could also lead to them not being the same length. But I can see why you want them
It's a just in case. I'd rather have it than not have it.


Car is going back to stock and being traded in so it's time to start selling off parts. Done with the oil change tick.
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Old 11-16-2016, 12:06 AM   #26
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Sorry for being to late to add my two cents. When are you do home? What branch of the service are you in?

Unless you are coming home a month or so, you should have waited on ordering your parts. You could catch someone having a sale and spend a lot less money. Could even price match but that looks like it's too late for that.
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Old 11-22-2016, 04:10 AM   #27
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Sorry for being to late to add my two cents. When are you do home? What branch of the service are you in?

Unless you are coming home a month or so, you should have waited on ordering your parts. You could catch someone having a sale and spend a lot less money. Could even price match but that looks like it's too late for that.

I'm a marine and I'll be home in a couple months. I've already got the shocks/struts/springs/panhard bar already for $450 off a guy private sale. I'm looking at some bmr LCAs and relocation brackets now. American muscle has the best price I can find, but I'm hoping maybe they will pop up on sale for thanksgiving/Christmas.

I wish now I had known about the issue with the strut mounts before I bought the struts. If I had known better I would have gotten the shocks and springs off the guy, and just gotten earlier model struts that would work with gt500 strut mounts. I think I'll order OEM strut mounts and have them on standby in case the ones I pull off fall apart. I don't won't to be left using my motorcycle as my only way to get around in February if the struts mounts **** the bed on me while I wait for new ones.


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Old 02-15-2017, 05:35 PM   #28
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So just to update, I finally did this. Springs (2 inch drop all around), koni shocks and struts, adjustable panhard bar, LCA relocation brackets, and put new lower control arms on while I was at it. I also ended up having to buy new strut mounts because they fell apart as everyone said they would.

I've only taken it on a quick loop around my neighborhood, but I noticed a couple things. Hard acceleration makes it pull right, downshifting makes it pull left, and I might be crazy but I swear I smelled a little bit of burning coming from the rear end. Anyone know what's going on there? Is it because I haven't had it aligned yet (or actually adjusted the panhard bar yet) or am I just dumb and screwed up the installation?
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Old 02-15-2017, 05:38 PM   #29
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Yeah, you need to align the rear. Takes like 5 minutes, im surprised you didnt do it when you installed everything.
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Old 02-15-2017, 06:23 PM   #30
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Well I just finished installing everything like a couple hours ago. I'm taking it to an alignment shop in the morning to have them do it.
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Old 02-15-2017, 07:36 PM   #31
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Just out of curiosity...did you adjust the panhard bar when you lowered the car???
If not you could have a tire that is rubbing against the body...IMHO
Also, how about a picture of the car lowered?????
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Old 02-16-2017, 05:08 PM   #32
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I have the adjustable panhard bar installed, but not adjusted yet. I got it used so it didn't have instructions with it, and I can't find any videos on how to adjust because I guess it's not a very popular one. Yes I feel stupid that I installed everything but can't figure out how to adjust a panhard bar, but anyone that knows how, please enlighten me. It's the J&M aluminum bar with the nuts on each end.

Here's a picture of her, it's dark now but I'll take a better one in the light. Also, I made some cosmetic changes to the strut brace and coil covers while I was bored and waiting on the UPS man to bring me new strut mounts. I'd appreciate anyone's opinions on if they like it or think it's tacky.

P.S. It's a 2-inch drop. Anyone thinking about dropping that far, driveways will become your enemy.
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Old 02-16-2017, 08:58 PM   #33
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This is the way I've been doing it for over 20 years.
With all four wheels on the ground at ride height, take a piece of string/twine and tie a large nut at the end...tape the string/twine to the outside of the wheel arch just above the rear tire on both sides of the car...so the nut hangs just below the center of the wheel and the string/twine goes through the center of the wheel. The nut only needs to below the center of the wheel. Let them hang until they stop swinging...measure from the string to the wheel rim/lip and right the numbers down...you will have two numbers, subtract one from the other and divide that answer by 2...this is the amount you will need to adjust the panhard bar...the direction you move depends on which side has the highest number...If one side is 2" away from the body...lets say the drivers side, and the passenger side is 1-1/2" you would want to move the rearend towards the passenger side by 1/4"...so you are actually pulling the rearend towards the passenger side which will center the axle...I hope that makes sense.
Also, you will need to drive a couple of hundred miles for the new springs to settle although I would get the front end aligned ASAP. After the springs have settled make sure you check the panhard measurements again...just to be safe.
As a safety tip...I've used for over 40 years...when you replace/re-torque bolts and nuts, take a permanent marker and mark across the flat of the bolt/nut to the surrounding material...this will give you a visual every time you look at it and will tell you if it has moved...just to be safe.
Hope this helps.
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Old 02-16-2017, 10:40 PM   #34
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As a safety tip...I've used for over 40 years...when you replace/re-torque bolts and nuts, take a permanent marker and mark across the flat of the bolt/nut to the surrounding material...this will give you a visual every time you look at it and will tell you if it has moved...just to be safe.

Hope this helps.

Good idea.


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Old 02-17-2017, 11:53 AM   #35
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Got some pictures this morning in the daylight. Hopefully someone can help me with how to actually adjust this particular panhard bar. Most of the ones I've seen have the nuts in the middle of the bar, this has them on the end. Do I loosen the nuts on the end and then turn the bar itself? Because it appears that the bar is made to be gripped with a wrench. I feel so stupid that I can't figure it out. I did undercarriage on bulldozers when I was in high school but cars can confuse me sometimes.Click image for larger version

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