clutch issues at high RPM - Mustang Evolution

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Old 11-29-2016, 08:18 PM   #1
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clutch issues at high RPM

when i'm hard on the throttle and trying to shift, sometimes the clutch gets a little firmer than normal, and the travel seems to be about half the distance it is when normal driving. Only happens at higher RPM's. I've read about the clutch line issues, would a clutch line upgrade be a possibility to correct this problem or could it be something else?
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Old 11-29-2016, 08:36 PM   #2
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Brazilian pressure plate..?
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Old 11-30-2016, 05:52 AM   #3
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The clutch line upgrade could possibly resolve this. It is a fairly simple and relatively inexpensive upgrade. Another possibility is the slave cylinder but I would start with the clutch line and see if that resolves the issue.
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Old 11-30-2016, 06:34 AM   #4
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I also would try the line but doubt it'll help you. However at the $/time investment go for it.

DO NOT DROP THE CLIP!!!!!!
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Old 11-30-2016, 07:39 AM   #5
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I also would try the line but doubt it'll help you. However at the $/time investment go for it.

DO NOT DROP THE CLIP!!!!!!
The clip....yes....do not drop it. You will not be happy. I tied a string to it before removing it just in case.
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Old 11-30-2016, 07:59 AM   #6
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The line might help a little, but mine still does this even with DOT4 and a stainless line.
The only real solution is a better clutch, which is why I'll be doing that when I put my CJ on. Not gonna wait around for something to break.
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Old 11-30-2016, 02:06 PM   #7
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I did a MGW shifter...didn't help....went with a Mcleod braided line...didnt help, it turned out to be the pressure plate that caused all my high RPM issues. This is a well documented issue...repalce the clutch with a aftermarket one and you will be fine. The stock pressure plate doesnt fully disengage the clutch disk from the flywheel so torque is still being transferred as you try and shift, this is why it will grind or lock you out of the next gear.
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Old 11-30-2016, 06:30 PM   #8
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ok great. that explains it all then. I'll try to upgrade the line and see if maybe that helps a little. car only has 23k miles and weekend driver so probably not going to replace clutch anytime too soon.

I know this is probably stretching it, but is this something i could claim as a warranty isssue? i'm still on warranty and haven't upgraded anything with the drivetrain.
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Old 11-30-2016, 06:32 PM   #9
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ok great. that explains it all then. I'll try to upgrade the line and see if maybe that helps a little. car only has 23k miles and weekend driver so probably not going to replace clutch anytime too soon.

I know this is probably stretching it, but is this something i could claim as a warranty isssue? i'm still on warranty and haven't upgraded anything with the drivetrain.
I doubt you'd get this covered. Even if you did, they can only replace with stock parts, so it likely won't solve anything.
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Old 12-01-2016, 05:36 AM   #10
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If you have to get on it for the problem to occur I doubt your dealer will help unless you have a good relationship with them
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Old 12-01-2016, 03:07 PM   #11
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Clutch pedal assist spring. Delete it.


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Old 12-02-2016, 03:52 PM   #12
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Clutch pedal assist spring. Delete it.


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That's not going to fix this issue, but might help pedal feel in general.
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Old 12-03-2016, 09:05 AM   #13
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The inadequate 'THIRD world' built pressure is a huge weak point of our systems. Everything else is a bandaid until the clutch assembly is brought up to standards. Globalization has some rather irritating consequences. Airbags, clutch, transmission all sourced from off shore garbage manufacturing probably doing the best they can, but they just ain't got our best interests in mind. So sad for the consumer....follow the money
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Old 12-04-2016, 12:01 AM   #14
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Yeah i've read a few things about the clutch assist spring as well. Guess I'll just stick it out or maybe next spring splurge on a clutch, not exactly what I wanted to spend big money on with this car...
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Old 12-04-2016, 09:02 AM   #15
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The clutch assist spring is an easy project. Relatively speaking.
I do like the much more connected feel of the addition of Steda's lighter assist spring. clutch action feels pretty normal, just a bit heavier pedal, which I like. I feel more connected to the shifting routine. I didn't really care for the kind of unfinished feel I got without any dumb little spring in there. Money's well spent in my book....a bandaid, but a better feeling bandaid...
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Old 12-08-2016, 06:47 PM   #16
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Hey ddmoto, I picked up that Steeda Clutch assist spring too but I was kinda nervous about busting that assembly trying to get that spring out.
I clamped it with some licking needle nose pliers but I couldn't get enough pressure off it for the spring to pop out easily.
Any tips from anyone, to pop that little spring out without breaking the little delicate looking parts of the assembly that holds the spring?
Thanks in advance!


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Old 12-08-2016, 06:49 PM   #17
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Dang it, locking pliers! I'm not licking my clutch spring, lol


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Old 12-09-2016, 07:57 PM   #18
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There are several vids online showing disassembly/install. I found that disconecting the master cylinder end from the pedal linkage to allow the over extension of the pedal linkage worked well. The stock spring just falls out. Installing the longer Steada spring was the tuff part for me. The vice grips didn't work for me. I ended up compressing the spring with both ends on it in my shop vice, then 'tying' the assembly together with a length of aluminum wire to keep it all compressed while installing. Then I cut the wire to free the coils after hooking the master cylinder linkage back up. Worked pretty slick.
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Old 02-02-2017, 10:01 PM   #19
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To replace the clutch assist spring, you can wrap a heavy zip tie around the assembly, with it under the mounting pin that passes through the upper spring perch. Snug it, and as you depress the clutch to compress the spring pull the zip tie tight. As you release the clutch pedal the assembly should lift right out without breaking the fragile guide pin on the upper perch. To release the tension, place the assembly in a vise between padded jaws and when secure, cut the tie and slowly open the vise to separate the assembly. After replacing the spring, again replace in the vise with a sturdy zip tie around the assembly, and as you close the vise snug the tie until the assembly is fully compressed. Carefully release the vise pressure and reinstall. Once installed, cut the tie. If you do break the guide pin in the upper perch it can be repaired for a couple dollars if you have access to drill press.
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Old 04-15-2017, 10:40 PM   #20
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I have a 2012 GT and I have experienced the same issue. I replaced the clutch line with the McLeod braided line but it still does the same thing.

When I take of from a complete stop and gradually let the RPMs rise to near redline; when I go to push in the clutch it is super hard. In fact, it feels as though the pedal is trying to push back on my foot...and I mean hard! It'll do it in 2nd too. It tends to normalize from 3rd on.

I'm gonna try removing the assist spring to see if that works. It's really annoying to have to keep experimenting and buying parts to correct Ford's crappy design.


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Old 04-15-2017, 10:48 PM   #21
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I have a 2012 GT and I have experienced the same issue. I replaced the clutch line with the McLeod braided line but it still does the same thing.

When I take of from a complete stop and gradually let the RPMs rise to near redline; when I go to push in the clutch it is super hard. In fact, it feels as though the pedal is trying to push back on my foot...and I mean hard! It'll do it in 2nd too. It tends to normalize from 3rd on.

I'm gonna try removing the assist spring to see if that works. It's really annoying to have to keep experimenting and buying parts to correct Ford's crappy design.


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Sounds like a bad clutch buddy, i don't think the small fixes are gonna help in this case
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Old 04-15-2017, 11:23 PM   #22
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Sounds like a bad clutch buddy, i don't think the small fixes are gonna help in this case

That sucks! I bought this car in January and have spent quite a few bucks correcting poorly designed components; money I could be using to buy mods.

Is it normal for a clutch to wear or go bad so quickly? My car is low mileage. I got it with 40k miles. That's about 153 miles per week in 5 years. I put 215,000 miles on my 2008 Mitsubishi Lancer and the clutch is still working fine. That's approximately 460 miles per week.


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Old 04-15-2017, 11:24 PM   #23
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That sucks! I bought this car in January and have spent quite a few bucks correcting poorly designed components; money I could be using to buy mods.

Is it normal for a clutch to wear or go bad so quickly? My car is low mileage. I got it with 40k miles. That's about 153 miles per week in 5 years. I put 215,000 miles on my 2008 Mitsubishi Lancer and the clutch is still working fine. That's approximately 460 miles per week.


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Unfortunately you never know how the last person treated the car. The clutch can last way more than 40k but not if the previous owner drove like an idiot
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Old 04-15-2017, 11:28 PM   #24
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Unfortunately you never know how the last person treated the car. The clutch can last way more than 40k but not if the previous owner drove like an idiot

That's true. Well, do you recommend any clutch/ flywheel combo that is suitable for daily driving? I currently have about 425 RWHP and plan to take it to 500HP eventually.


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