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Ford Racing Handling Pack - 2014 GT

3K views 17 replies 9 participants last post by  noldevin 
#1 ·
#4 ·
There are better parts out there sir
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I'd love any suggestions you might have. As for what I want, I'd like to retrofit some of the Track Pack features that weren't present on the GT Premium. I want to eliminate body roll and nose dive, and from what I'd been told this was the ticket. I asked the good people at AM about this and they said this kit was the one to go with if I wanted to do the Track Pack thing.
 
#5 ·
Does it work? Sure it does it's job which is "improve" from stock however there are way better stuff out there which will cost more but will definitely be better.

Look at BMR products which is what I run, every single part of my suspension is BMR ( except shocks and struts) with no problems.

Now this may or may not break your budget but if you want to do all at once then it'll be worth the wait. I'll copy and paste what i wrote on another thread. I waited a year to be able to afford it all and I would do it again 5x over.


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#6 ·
Everything BMR Except strut mounts and shock/strut.

1. Lowering springs (obvs)

2. Koni yellow Shock and strut (stock ones aren't meant for the drop)

3. Gt500 strut mounts or cc plates ( stock ones are not reusable trust me!! )

4. LCA relocation brackets (fixes the geometry of the control arm to be parallel with ground)

5. UCA adjustable (fixes pinion angle after drop)

6. Adjustable Panhand bar (fixes geometry of the rear end since it will move to one side)

7. Non adjustable LCA


8. A 6 pack of your favorite beer



The above I feel is a must for every drop for it to be properly and safely.



Now that being said I do understand everyone has different budgets it took me a year to be able to buy all that but it was worth it.




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#8 ·
First, the TrakPak package is not different from normal suspension wise...I changed out all of my 14 TrakPak suspension to suite my driving...I have used FPP in the past and have not been very happy with the "P" in performance.
Other people have given you suggestions and my only word of caution here is to put one part at a time on the car...sort it out and feel how different it is...then go on to the other part. Too many people just change everything and then it becomes almost like a dog chasing its tail...you run around in circles and achieve very little.
One other word of caution before you start changing any suspension parts is to check the carrier bushing on top of the rearend housing...my guess is that if you have very many miles on your Mustang this bushing will show cracking and separation and is a weak point when you upgrade to better LCA/UCA and panhard poly bushings. So when you change the UCA you need to take the old OEM bushing out and replace it with this...BMR Suspension EN001, Differential Bushing Kit, 2005 - 2014 Mustang | eBay
You can buy this from Summit or JEGS.
 
#10 ·
my only word of caution here is to put one part at a time on the car...sort it out and feel how different it is...then go on to the other part. .

Agreed to an extent. Some parts should not be done by themselves, if you do the springs and not the shocks/ struts then they will put a lot of strain on the stock shocks/struts. I did all at once and it came out fine but if you want to follow this mindset OP then do it UCA w/ mount, shocks and strut with mount, LCA, panhand bar, lca relo, and then springs


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#12 ·
Yes you do need an alignment, you should not lower your vehicle and drive around without doing setting pinion angle and your stock shocks are not made for that drop and they should be upgraded. You want to do it right do what I told you, if you want to cut corners do as sir has stated above.


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#13 ·
I am agreeing with what young Joaquin_ii said about replacing the struts, shocks, and strut mounts...my remark was that it can be done, not that it should be done.
With the pinion angle, having the stock two piece driveshaft is much more forgiving that a single piece and with the 5 Mustangs that I've had the pleasure of helping lower only one of the cars was out of Ford Sec regarding U-joint angle. Again I'm not saying all cars don't need to be adjusted...and when you drive it to the line-up shop if the angle is far enough out you will feel the vibration. 200 miles to let the car settle should not cause any issues with the U-joint angle unless you feel a vibration. Again, this is MHO.
 
#14 · (Edited)
I think the FRPP suspension is getting a bad rap. The springs and sway bars are made by Eibach. They would not tell me the exact specs, but did say it was stiffer springs/bars then Boss. I can't remember wrt eibach sports, but close, albiet different. The FRPP is a little stiff for the road and the non adjustable shocks are probably not the way to go. The nice thing about the kit is it comes with all new factory bolts. Been on the track a couple times and not unhappy with , but then i never was at the limits of the car. I also swapped out shocks for yellow konis. As they day it all depends on what ur going to do with the car. The FRPP suspension doesn't include some of the parts mentionef above, so if you go that route the FRPP sudpension may not be right for you, oe cc plates versus gt500 strut mounts.

Having said all of that, i probably wouldn't do it again for me because of the shocks and i want to run cc plates to add a little nore camber when i do go to the track. At 1in drop, cc plates are usually not required and ford includes their own camber (and caster) bolts. Much stronger than eibachs. OBYW i only paid $1100 and change because I bought suspension from dealer when I bought car.
 
#15 ·
I started with the FRPAA kit - with the Steeda UCA, camber plates, and FR LCAs. It was decent on the track but I found the adjustable tokico struts in the kit unacceptable for the street and switched to Koni yellows. Much happier now. Still contemplating a Watts link but I don't get to the track enough to really warrant another thousand $.
 
#17 ·
Suspension

Hi, If you can go drive a 2011-2014 gt 500! If you like the way it handles l have 11- 14 track pack suspension all 4 corners. Struts and springs shocks take offs less then 1k! Not much money 300. Just thought l'd throw this out to you. Lowers the vehicle 1" thanks Ed.
 
#18 ·
I'm with most of the others, you can get a much better improvement piecing together your own "kit"
I personally would go with BMR rear components (LCA, UCA, panhard, relocation brackets)
Bilstien shocks and struts
Springs that fit your needs and wants (amount of lowering, spring rates, etc)
Either camber plates or Gt500 strut mounts (you'll have to get 05-10 style struts). Do not use camber bolts.

If after that you still feel you need sway bars you can add them later, though they should ideally only be used to fine tune understeer vs oversteer.
 
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