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Advice On Supercharger For '10 Stang

3K views 45 replies 14 participants last post by  sonicpony03 
#1 ·
Hey guys, I wanted to get some opinions on boosting a stock engine. I have a meticulously maintained mustang with almost 40K miles on it. No mechanical problems as of yet. CARB in California sucks and really limits choices for aftermarket parts especially for my year.

I feel like investing in a CARB legal supercharger will give me the extra power that I want and not have to worry about swapping my stock parts in for smog every other year. I found a supercharger complete kit for my year that runs 5 PSI on a 91 octane tune. I did the math and investing money in a new year S550 doesn't seem like the best option.

I am not very eager to spend additional money on dropping the engine and getting forged internals since the SC is going to cost a pretty penny. So the question is, is running lower boost on a stock engine relatively safe? I hear that running 450RWHP is usually the limit for S197 mustangs and any over is gonna be a bad day. So far, everyone I have asked said this kit will be fine. If so, I figure that getting a better clutch and flywheel would be ideal. Probably rear lower control arms as well to help fight wheel hop.

Here is the link to the kit:

http://www.americanmuscle.com/edelbrock-sc-2010gt.html


(Can someone clarify if the HP/Torque is BHP or WHP?)

I really appreciate any advice; especially if you are running boost on your stock engine.

Thanks!

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Torch Red 2010 GT Premium, Manual
BAMA 91 Performance Tune
 
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#5 ·
Sell your car or trade it on in a new one with a good interest rate or pick up a clean used 11+ GT. 11+ with mild bolt ons and suspension will blow the doors off a 2010 with a supercharger.
 
#6 ·
450 wheel is about the safe limit for the 4.6 3V. The rotating assembly ****s the bed above that. The 5.0, otoh, can take 600 wheel and the later ones even more, due to stronger, essentially Boss parts in them.

Now, I can't advise more debt but, people are right here. It will cost more than you think and an 11+ with mild bolts like exhaust, tune and stickies will eat your lunch at low boost and no intercooler levels.

Build a 3v and the sky is the limit. These motors can make stratospheric HP with the right parts inside. The block is stronger than the Coyote block and people have been at them for decades.
 
#7 ·
If we are talking blocks I'd say 99% of ppl are never going to make anywhere near the power required to split a Coyote block. The old 5.0 pushrod blocks were the ones that would split right down the middle if you tried to run bigger power.




Also ppl have not been at the 3V for decades... it released on the Mustang in 2005 lol.
 
#8 ·
You won't split the block but, you can push the cylinder walls out into the water jackets and crack the cylinder wall. It's all in the tune, really but 750 could manage it. The design of the Coyote bock is very different than the 4.6 block in this regard.

4.6 building has been going on for decades, since '96 but, you're correct, smart ***, 3v is 2005+.
 
#9 ·
:) I'm just messing man. Actually if you REALLY wanted to get technical the 4.6L has been going on since the 1991 Town Car.


But yeah the modular blocks both iron and all the aluminum are pretty damn durable, even the WAP despite what the internet says.
 
#10 ·
Not too many people hotrodded the Town Car...though that would be kind of cool.

I like the first generation DOHC 4.6 Cobras at the time. Really quite innovative for the day, if a little frangible when modified.

I'll be honest, as a 5.0 guy going back to my first Mustang, from 1968, I hated the 4.6 and would never buy a Mustang with one in it. I was Foxbody until the 2011 came out. 13 years I owned and modded the old '88 SD car.
 
#11 ·
Thanks guys! Appreciate the advice, I'm steering away from the idea now.

I really like the body style of the '11-'14 (specifically the '13-14's) and '15-'16 stangs

If I were to trade up to the 5.0, are there any key differences between the 11-14 GTs and the 15-16s? Are 07-09 GT500s even worth considering?

I see a couple right now in my area that are in a good price range with considerably low miles. I didn't know a whole lot about mustangs before I got my 2010 and if I had known what I do now before I got it I wouldn't have bought that year. Still love driving it but always want more out of it
 
#17 ·
Key differences in the 11-14 and 15-17 are the internals, heads and the suspension. Besides the much better 15-17 interior and the obviously different body. The 15-17 have stronger rods, slightly better heads, a few other things... You might want to see what you can get a leftover base model 2016 or 2017 GT for with a new car interest rate, you might be surprised.

As far as the 07-09 GT500... hell yes they are worth considering... if you have a $30k budget. For $30k you can get one already pretty much done with a TVS making 600+ to the wheels. If you buy one low mileage stock you'll pay as much as a new 2017 and it'll be slower. Plus they are pushing 10+ years old now, that comes with its own set of issues. That said, I love them, they have a Brutal look to them and the S H E L B Y name does turn heads.

Also... call your insurance company/other companies and get quotes, you might **** when you hear how much the GT500 commands for an insurance premium, or even a new GT. I like how my 96-04 cars are like $20 a month for liability lol.

Not too many people hotrodded the Town Car...though that would be kind of cool.

I like the first generation DOHC 4.6 Cobras at the time. Really quite innovative for the day, if a little frangible when modified.

I'll be honest, as a 5.0 guy going back to my first Mustang, from 1968, I hated the 4.6 and would never buy a Mustang with one in it. I was Foxbody until the 2011 came out. 13 years I owned and modded the old '88 SD car.
There are for sure hot rodded Panther cars out there. Besides the obvious Marauder crowd you can get something like a 2008 Marquis for like no money, all the comfy features for a DD, insurance costs are about 0 and its legit the same damn drivetrain as a 2V Mustang GT. I've ran into a few guys that do this for their DDs, I would.

As for the 4.6 itself, I'm opposite of you, I'd never take a pushrod over the 4.6 ever. 4.6 is just... better... Better built, better designed, much better parts out of the factory, easier to tune, stronger etc... Only real disadvantage is they are freaking physically huge lol.
 
#12 · (Edited)
S550 has IRS, S197 has live axel. Coyote in S550 is built stronger than the one in the S197. Doesn't mean the S197 Coyote is weak; 650rwhp on stock internals is damn impressive. S197 I GT500's are pretty strong (potential wise) out of the factory. Worth noting the Coyote is a better engine than the Condor; by no means does that mean the Condor is a bad engine. Out of those options I'd go with the S197 I. I have a soft spot for them.
Coyote will be getting direct injection for the 2018 model year. Which will be another leap like the S550 Coyote is to the S197 Coyote.


Pick your poison.
 
#13 ·
You gotta know when you are happy, too. I loved my 3.73 BBP 2012 car to death...it's own that is, it died saving my life. Had that car not got wrecked I'd still own it today. It was flawed right from the start though, with sloppy shifter, wheelhop like crazy and a garbage factory tune...and a suiciding MT82 that Ford fixed under warranty. Once I'd sorted out those issues, the car was an absolute blast, with a full load of options, except the glass roof (something I was glad I didn't have as the car's death contained a serious rollover.

I love my 14 but, if I were in your shoes and happy with the car you have, the condition it is in, I'd stick with it. The 07-09 GT500s will be faster, obviously but will feel like ox carts refinement-wise compared to your 10, plus their option loads aren't great.
 
#14 · (Edited)
I have a 2010 GT Premium
I took it to Roush had them install the M90 kit 5psi
Roush claims 435 at flywheel
I had this done in 2012
In 2013 I took it to Blue Collar Performance had smaller pulley installed 8psi and dyno tuned
Oddly the car put down 400 at the wheels before the pulley swap and tune
After it ended up 435 hp at the wheels and 403 torque
No issues runs great on 91 octane
The kit ran $6700 installed
Pulley and tune $1000
That includes an SCT tuner
It all depends on what you want to spend and what you like
I am also running a Roush cat back exhaust and full Roush suspension control arms etc
I really love the sound of the M90
Stock 5.0 puts down about 360 hp to wheels for comparison
I use my car mostly fir cruising car shows and once a year open track day so it isn't beat on that much
 
#19 ·
#21 ·
I use manual activation on the N20, too. That's how I can get it out of hole quicker with the tightass converter. I can feel the rotating assembly groaning.

I'm gonna shoot E85 and 150 down this thing at least once this season, if I can get it all lined out and the weather holds. I got a drag bike I'm working on right now as well.
 
#24 ·
Get yourself an intercooled Kenne Bell kit and be done with it. Comes with everything down to the coolant, plugs and every last zip tie.
I went KB 8 years ago with 32K on the clock, now have 85k and I've beaten the crap out of this old 4.6 without a hiccup.
 
#25 ·
Auto at track

Rappinator +1
Got a multitude of passes down, Bone stock 12.9 on street tires
Pro cal, aluminum drive shaft drag radials, LCRs, 12.4
E-force stage 2 -5 passes 11.8 , 11.6, 11.8, 12.4, 12.5.
Those are the first passes since it was put on over the winter, no track prep, they were going for an old school weekend and the weren't tossing anything down for traction. The left lane wasn't hooking for $4it and I realized I got to learn to drive it again.
The 12.4 and 12.5 were in the left lane and had to get out of it due to wheel spin.
I got the kit from brenspeed, they say it should be making 520 RWHP.
Drag calculator says its about 480 based on the time.
Got to due some suspension mods in the rear and lose some weight up front.
Last pass I went up against a 2012 stick with slicks + 100 hp shot he hooked up and hit a 11.99, said I really pushed him.
 
#26 ·
11.99 from a 100 shot Coyote is kinda slow...
 
#27 · (Edited)
It's all about traction, especially with spray. It took a lot of trying but, I did get 11.91 on a stock n/a '12 BBP, with a slick tire but, on an unprepared surface, nothing's going to hook up worth a damn. It wasn't easy with a prepared surface.

With 100 being good for 11.4 on my stock auto instantly, with the same slick tire, on the same prepared surface, it was WAY easier than putting the stocker '12 into the 11s. Both cars fully loaded heavyweights so, they can be compared, despite the different transmissions and rear gearing.
 
#29 ·
Why I don't get the dudes who are doing like 700hp street cars that never see the track.
 
#31 ·
Someone needs to make a fake blower kit that has a 1200HP sticker on it. ?

Then they could just SAY they have 1200HP and no need to race anyone because it's just too much power to unleash.
 
#30 ·
I would consider Kenne Bell.
Awesome blowers.
 
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