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Need troubleshooting help - some rear bushing I think

1K views 19 replies 7 participants last post by  REG 
#1 ·
Hi All...

I think one of the rear bushings went out the other day and need help with how to determine which one (SB end links, UCA, or LCAs...not sure). I'm getting a rattly/clunky sound when driving over bumps near rear passenger side. It seemed to literally happen overnight... I never heard it before, then next morning it was there. I only hear it when driving over bumps/bumpy road. I'm not sure it's a bushing, but that's what it sounds like to me.

Any troubleshooting tips or what to look for if I get under the car would be great...thank you.

2013 GT - Steeda sport springs, Steeda ph bar, Steeda Pro-action shocks/struts.

Arlen.
 
#6 ·
Banged on stuff.... couldn't find anything. Not really sure how to check the UCA. Are there any other details, etc. that could help narrow it down?
 
#8 ·
I think you'd be hard pressed to get any noise out of a worn differential bushing by using a rubber mallet. It's a tight area up in there. If you did get a good swing on the UCA, by using a 1" dia wood handle (broomstick etc) and a hammer from where you could swing (below the DS) you might hear something.
The rest of the bushings are easy to get to so by process of elimination, I would think it's the UCA, one end or the other.
 
#9 ·
I'm going to go back and check again.... it's definitely coming from around the rear passenger wheel. I read somewhere that one dude disconnected the suspected Swaybar link to verify, but that seems unsafe to me especially on a lowered car.
 
#12 ·
It was the adjustable PH Bar! One of the jam nuts was loose. I'm surprised it caused that much clunking at the rear passenger wheel. It really sounded like a bad bushing to me. Thanks for the info...it helped me narrow it down. :thumb:
 
#13 ·
One trick we used to do...and I still do on any suspension bolts/nuts...mark along the flat of the nut and a mark corresponding adjacent to flat. This will give you a visual reference and tell you if any of the nuts/bolts has moved. I have used this method in drag racing for over 40 years and also in SCCA racing since the early 2000's. Funny story...I was racing my Camaro in NHRA SS/IA at SIR and looked under Grumpy Jenkins car and saw this method of marking suspension parts...at about the same time I stuck my head under the car Mr. Jenkins told me in no certain terms to get my "Big Fat XXXXXXX Head out from underneath his car"!
 
#14 ·
Great suggestion from olerodder, no surprise there.

That's a case of not supplying all the info (but what are you going to do, list everything you've ever done!?) which could've helped. I have adj panhard and adj lca's. Had a nut loosen on a lca and it clunked for part of a day.
 
#16 ·
I didn't install it.... but it didn't look like they were. I'm definitely going to now.
 
#17 ·
Pan hard bar

Until you tighten down the nuts they will clunk pretty good!
So if one worked loose, I can see it clunking pretty good.
OLD RODDER
I think Grumpy has passed but his shop is still being run by his sons.
They moved it from Malvern to north of Philly.
I have an acquaintance in NJ who's part owner of a Gen 2 camaro who they built an engine for.
It was making a hell of a lot of horsepower and he said all they've done is break $h!t this year.
 
#19 ·
Until you tighten down the nuts they will clunk pretty good!
So if one worked loose, I can see it clunking pretty good.
I was really surprised it would make that much noise.
 
#18 ·
One more response for Voltwings

If that don't work, get a bigger hammer!
 
#20 ·
Clunk

Hadn't done the final adjustment and we took it out on the highway and it clunked several times on even small bumps, once set and thread locked no clunking through a couple of hundred miles
 
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