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Stalling Issue

3K views 15 replies 10 participants last post by  crjackson 
#1 ·
I have a 2014 Mustang GT. While coasting down a long hill the other day, I had pushed in the clutch. The engine died. It restarted fine, but again died at idle. It did this 3 more times. Then no problem. I was on a 250 mile trip. Later on that trip it did it again. At no time did I get any Check Engine or other warning lights. My first thought was the oil separator was full, and was contaminating the fuel charge. It had very little oil in it. So I pulled the throttle body. It was a little gummy, buy not bad. But I cleaned it anyway, and put it back together. I also sprayed all of the air inlet area with starting fluid, looking for a vacuum leak. I also disconnected the battery, trying to get the computer to re-learn the idle settings. Nothing helped. Engine wise it still has all of the factory engine settings. Any Ideas anyone?? Thanks!
 
#4 ·
Engines manufactured from 2005-present don't have an IAC. The throttle body acts as the air bypass for the idle.
You should scan for any Diagnostic Trouble Codes, even though your Check Engine Light is not illuminated.
Stalling can be a symptom of a failing throttle body.
 
#8 ·
Yeah, that's the first thing to check, Ive got a 14 as well and just installed a new battery and the entire electric harness due to corrosion from the defective stock battery. Fresh Plugs cant hurt either. You should check the sound tube for leaks also. I removed mine and sealed it off.
 
#9 ·
The two things new on the cars recently that gripe me most are the drive-by-wire scheme and the complex ABS. Either one can disable the car under certain conditions. My first one was "Forced Engine Idle", starts, runs, but only at idle. Takes a helluva long time to get anywhere. Replaced Throttle Body.

Second one was ABS putting engine in limp mode first, then forced engine idle. ABS Module had died. I came from the old school, you see.......
 
#10 ·
Well, I've cleaned the MAF sensor, re-disconnected the battery and cleaned the terminals, re-sprayed with starting fluid looking for a vacumn leak. Still nothing..Still not getting a code either.I'm truly stumped. As much as I hate to, I'm starting to think I'm going to have to go to the Ford dealer. That can't possible have a good outcome.
 
#11 ·
I had this problem with my ‘13 GT. I ran the idle re-learn procedure and so far it hasn’t happened again in the last few thousand miles.
 
#14 ·
OK found the problem. It was the Canister Purge Valve. It wasn't stuck open, which seems to be the most common failure. It was failing in the closed position. Apparently Ford knows that this is a problem too. I spoke with a 20 year Ford master tech that my brother knows. He told me up front that either the purge valve had failed, or the electronics (throttle position sensor) in the throttle body had failed. He diagnosed that from 1500 miles away, never saw the car. Although my car is still (barely) under warranty, I'm out of town so much, going to the dealership is a huge hassle. So I bought a new purge valve for $35 at the parts store. Fifteen minutes later its running outstanding again. The car never caused a code or check engine light.
 
#16 ·
Get his address, and send him a gift card. You never know... You might need to call him again some time.

Remember, he does this for a living and gets paid for his knowledge.
 
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