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Old 12-19-2017, 04:12 PM   #1
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Engine Cuts Off & Limp Mode

Starting this year, my car will sometimes crank up fine then the RPMs will drop to 0 and the engine cuts off but the power is still on. The only solution I found was to unplug the battery, plug it back in, and the car will work fine for weeks. I left the car with Ford for a week so they could fix the issue but they claim it has to be the battery and wanted me to buy one. They also drilled a hole in the battery through the top of the connector, not sure why.

I took my car to Advanced Auto to get my battery replaced but they said my battery and starter are perfectly fine (the paperwork Ford gave me has the battery reading as good too). Later that day, it randomly went into Limp Mode (orange wrench light) in the middle of an intersection, I could only go like 5-10mph. I pulled over at a gas station, turned my car off and back on, worked fine.

The other day, my car was cutting off at startup again and unplugging the battery didn't work this time. After an hour, it magically fixed itself. When I was taking it to an auto repair shop down the road, it went into Limp Mode again but I was about to fix it by turning the car off and back on.

The mechanic hooked up a scanner to my car to read the codes but there was nothing there. I believe the two issues are related but no one can tell me why. When I described the issue to the mechanic, she said it sounds like it could be the throttle body but there's no way to test without the code.

2013 Mustang GT
68,000 Miles
AIRRAID CAI w/ Bama Tune
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Old 12-19-2017, 04:17 PM   #2
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IMHO, put everything back to stock. Tune and intake. See if it still does it or not. Rule out a tune related issue.
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Old 12-19-2017, 04:58 PM   #3
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She???
That's actually pretty cool.
I agree with her diagnosis.

And by disconnecting the battery, you are likely clearing any codes that are possibly being triggered.
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Old 12-19-2017, 05:06 PM   #4
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IMHO, put everything back to stock. Tune and intake. See if it still does it or not. Rule out a tune related issue.
I can't revert my CAI to stock because I no longer have the stock CAI.

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She???
That's actually pretty cool.
I agree with her diagnosis.

And by disconnecting the battery, you are likely clearing any codes that are possibly being triggered.
Yeah she's cool and actually more knowledgeable than the Ford mechanics I went to. A friend recommended I go to her since she was able to resolve an issue they had that Ford couldn't.

True but wouldn't there be a code since the wrench icon came on after I unplugged the battery?
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Old 12-19-2017, 05:46 PM   #5
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Not necessarily. Some codes will only be triggered if a fault is detected several times.
It makes it frustrating to diagnose without throwing parts at it.
It sure doesn't help that the dealership is confusing the issue by drilling holes in your battery... What the hell was that all about?!?

I wish that I could be of more help, but at this point, if you are confident that your charging system is functioning properly, I think that I would go with the mechanics diagnosis and replace the throttle body. Even without knowing for sure that is the cause, it is showing the symptoms of failure. Your only other option is quite possibly to just wait until the car doesn't come out of limp mode one day.
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Old 12-19-2017, 11:48 PM   #6
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If 2013 has "drive by wire" TB, all sorts very speciofically of weird effects are possible. However, TB very specifically throws trouble codes.

My guess here is a problem within the PCM itself. If a replacement is available, I would try that.
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Old 12-20-2017, 06:41 AM   #7
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TPS/TB?

I will agree with Fords saying you need a new battery.....SINCE THEY DRILLED A FREAKING HOLE IN IT!!!!!!

they really drilled a hole in the battery?
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Old 12-20-2017, 08:25 AM   #8
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TPS/TB?

I will agree with Fords saying you need a new battery.....SINCE THEY DRILLED A FREAKING HOLE IN IT!!!!!!

they really drilled a hole in the battery?
Yes! They even cut the strap on the right side of the picture.
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Old 12-20-2017, 12:43 PM   #9
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Originally Posted by WilsonXRS View Post
Starting this year, my car will sometimes crank up fine then the RPMs will drop to 0 and the engine cuts off but the power is still on. The only solution I found was to unplug the battery, plug it back in, and the car will work fine for weeks. I left the car with Ford for a week so they could fix the issue but they claim it has to be the battery and wanted me to buy one. They also drilled a hole in the battery through the top of the connector, not sure why.

I took my car to Advanced Auto to get my battery replaced but they said my battery and starter are perfectly fine (the paperwork Ford gave me has the battery reading as good too). Later that day, it randomly went into Limp Mode (orange wrench light) in the middle of an intersection, I could only go like 5-10mph. I pulled over at a gas station, turned my car off and back on, worked fine.

The other day, my car was cutting off at startup again and unplugging the battery didn't work this time. After an hour, it magically fixed itself. When I was taking it to an auto repair shop down the road, it went into Limp Mode again but I was about to fix it by turning the car off and back on.

The mechanic hooked up a scanner to my car to read the codes but there was nothing there. I believe the two issues are related but no one can tell me why. When I described the issue to the mechanic, she said it sounds like it could be the throttle body but there's no way to test without the code.

2013 Mustang GT
68,000 Miles
AIRRAID CAI w/ Bama Tune

Sounds like you have a similar experience to mine.

I don't get a wrench light, at least from what I remember. Every once in a great while my car will just die every so softly. It's never violent, it just cuts off. I can start it right back up with no issue. This usually happens on first start up, and as I am braking from 20 MPH, it the engine would die, but power would remain.

There are never any codes. The behavior is inconsistent, so much so, there is no point in taking it to a mechanic. The only correlation, is cold weather (<50°F) on first start.

What I have been doing now is letting it sit and warm up a little with no issues.

That is as un-scientific as you can get.
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Old 12-20-2017, 07:50 PM   #10
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It sought of sounds like something got wet under the hood maybe causing a short somewhere in the ignition system...Hope you get her fixed soon.
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Old 12-20-2017, 08:02 PM   #11
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It sought of sounds like something got wet under the hood maybe causing a short somewhere in the ignition system...Hope you get her fixed soon.
The last few times it happened, it was raining or just got finished raining.. maybe that's it.
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Old 01-05-2018, 09:27 PM   #12
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Replace the Canister Purge Valve. Costs about $35 dollars. It takes more time to pull the strut tower brace and engine cover, then it does to change the p/valve. My 2014 Track Pack was doing the same thing. Look at my post Stalling Issues. I think you'll see some similarities. Hope this helps.
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Old 01-06-2018, 09:59 AM   #13
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Replace the Canister Purge Valve. Costs about $35 dollars. It takes more time to pull the strut tower brace and engine cover, then it does to change the p/valve. My 2014 Track Pack was doing the same thing. Look at my post Stalling Issues. I think you'll see some similarities. Hope this helps.
Just got finished reading your thread. $35 for a possible solution is nothing and is way cheaper than getting a new throttle body. I'm ordering the Duralast Canister Purge Valve from Autozone and see if it fixes the issue. Thanks for letting me know.
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Old 01-06-2018, 06:17 PM   #14
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Hope all goes well for you..
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