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Old 01-30-2018, 04:52 PM   #1
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Modifications before Supercharger (2012 GT)

So I just bought a GT and it is stock besides the exhaust. I was wondering what modifications i need before i install a supercharger in it. Could anyone possibly give me recommendations for brands? It is my DD car. Any further questions i will happily answer to the best of my knowledge
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Old 01-30-2018, 04:59 PM   #2
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Oil pump gears.

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Old 01-30-2018, 05:02 PM   #3
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Well, suspension and tires would be my suggestion or you're going to be on a youtube "leaving cars and coffee" video.
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Old 01-30-2018, 05:50 PM   #4
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Well, suspension and tires would be my suggestion or you're going to be on a youtube "leaving cars and coffee" video.
That should be a given.

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Old 01-30-2018, 06:15 PM   #5
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I'd say you'd be surprised, but you probably wouldn't be.
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Old 01-30-2018, 06:21 PM   #6
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Well, suspension and tires would be my suggestion or you're going to be on a youtube "leaving cars and coffee" video.
+1 on that great advice. Getting wheel hop under control and tires that can handle a bit of power is a really good plan.

Since you call it your daily driver can I assume:
-you don't want it to be regularly broken and sitting dead.
-you don't want to be monkeying around with it ALL the time.
-you will drive primarily in regular traffic and occasionally give it the full monty.

If you want reliable, easy and trouble free consider the Roush 625 hp kit with the Roush tune. It will be conservative (some would say overly...) and safe as heck. Relatively easy to install yourself if you are that way inclined.

Positive displacement superchargers have instant low rpm torque and that's great in the regular traffic that daily driving mostly entails. Roush has worked with Ford's engineers and company the most of any supplier. There is some comfort in this. Not that the others can't be safe and great, just that the Roush tune will always be. And if you want more, you can always add a few things and a new tune and get more.

Here's part one of a five part DIY roush install in a Mustang mag.

Our One-Day DIY Blower Install - Muscle Mustangs & Fast Fords Magazine

Part one is 'daily driver' material then they have another four or five parts to make it crazy fast.

Again, no offense intended to the turbo, centri and whipple crowd. If I did it again, I would go this way because there is just so much info, parts and tuning knowledge with the massive selling Roush setup.

Good luck and all the best.
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Old 01-30-2018, 08:38 PM   #7
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Well, suspension and tires would be my suggestion or you're going to be on a youtube "leaving cars and coffee" video.
Any particular suspension kit i should consider? I know the kits are cheaper than getting all of it individually
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Old 01-30-2018, 08:50 PM   #8
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Any particular suspension kit i should consider? I know the kits are cheaper than getting all of it individually
Bad part about "kits" is when changing a lot of things at once, if one piece causes undesirable handling you have no way of knowing which one it was. I am not much of a drag racer, but i imagine you could spend some timing reading up on what the big shops like to use: BMR, JPC, AED etc... i wouldn't trust somewhere like American Muscle or LMR or CJ pony parts (just to name a few) because as good as their service may be, they sell a lot of products, so really whatever they "recommend" may not be what works best for you and your situation you know.
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Old 01-30-2018, 09:16 PM   #9
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My setup with a 740 + hp and 800+ ft-lb coyote was. BMR non adjustable lowers, JPC upper., BMR relocation brackets and no sway bar with K springs. Lakewood 50/50 shocks, 325/50 15 tire out back. My car was built for roll racing, and dead hooked from a 40+ with 4.10's and a mt-82. Anything under 40 was out of the question though.

Suspension plays a bigger roll in hooking up vs a tire (especially width of a tire, one of my biggest pet peeves, when people think wider the better)


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Old 01-31-2018, 12:58 PM   #10
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roush blower

i bought the roush stage 1 575 hp kit from Cj pony parts for my 2014 gt. Had my local ford dealer install it. Great experience, good power. I was soon itching for more though(jyou know how that goes hahaha). So I upgraded fuel injectors, went with a different pulley for more boost, and had a couple of custom tunes done by local speed shop that specializes in mustangs. 550 hp, 500 ftlbs at the wheels. runs low 11's on drag radials. its a manual. However, next ca,r im putting a whipple or procharger on it.
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Old 01-31-2018, 01:02 PM   #11
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after the supercharger, i put BMR upper and lower control arms, relocation brackets, solid bushings, panhard bar, and eibach springs. massive improvement off the line, and when banging through the maual gears.
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Old 01-31-2018, 03:12 PM   #12
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i bought the roush stage 1 575 hp kit from Cj pony parts for my 2014 gt. Had my local ford dealer install it. Great experience, good power. I was soon itching for more though(jyou know how that goes hahaha). So I upgraded fuel injectors, went with a different pulley for more boost, and had a couple of custom tunes done by local speed shop that specializes in mustangs. 550 hp, 500 ftlbs at the wheels. runs low 11's on drag radials. its a manual. However, next ca,r im putting a whipple or procharger on it.
Hey, rm, I have the whipple (Ford Racing) version of your roush kit. Shares all the mounting parts and manifolds, intercooler, etc anyway. Like you did, I'm dabbling with the idea of tweaking. Just wondered if I could hit you up with a few questions?

- Which pulley did you go with and what was it's advertised boost?
- Which injectors did you switch to?
- Did you add a boost a pump?
- Did you go to an open air intake? If yes, which one?
- Did you bump your rev limit with the new tune?
- Did you change plugs or keep original stock?
- what rear gears are you running?

Sorry for being so nosy but I'm getting bored with the snow here and thinking I have to get going on something with the car.

Thanks and all the best.
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Old 02-01-2018, 01:36 AM   #13
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Oil pump gears.

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Can you give some insight on this? I have heard a lot of mixed things about oil pump gears. Some say you don't need to replace them depending on what kind of supercharger you have, how high your revving, two step, harmonics. Not sure if I should change mine out before putting a whipple on it.
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Old 02-01-2018, 01:54 AM   #14
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If you are planning on running high rpm a lot then get oil pump gears otherwise don?t worry about it.
You don?t need to get any extra parts if you are using a complete kit.
You can change part first if u want but a complete system normally won?t need any extra parts you can upgrade parts later as u go
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Old 02-01-2018, 07:51 AM   #15
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Suspension plays a bigger roll in hooking up vs a tire (especially width of a tire, one of my biggest pet peeves, when people think wider the better)


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Ok Rap, but once you set up the suspension, doesn?t a wider tire help? You?re not running a 245 out back if you can go with a 275 right?
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Old 02-01-2018, 07:53 AM   #16
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- Which pulley did you go with and what was it's advertised boost? im traveling for work this week so i dont know the exact size that i switched to(reciepts are in the car), but im running approx 9.5lbs of boost
- Which injectors did you switch to? Injector Dynamics 1050
- Did you add a boost a pump? No
- Did you go to an open air intake? If yes, which one? still has stock ford airbox,
- Did you bump your rev limit with the new tune? peak power is now at 7300, limit is 7600. car screams, its awesome but took some getting used to revving that high.
- Did you change plugs or keep original stock? no change
- what rear gears are you running? i added ford racing 3:73s, car came with3:31s that was the first upgrade i did on the car.
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Old 02-01-2018, 08:29 AM   #17
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Can you give some insight on this? I have heard a lot of mixed things about oil pump gears. Some say you don't need to replace them depending on what kind of supercharger you have, how high your revving, two step, harmonics. Not sure if I should change mine out before putting a whipple on it.
I took advice from my local shop and went with a quality damper instead. The advice was to treat the problem (excessive harmonics) instead of the symptoms. I have had no problems so far.
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Old 02-01-2018, 08:52 AM   #18
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Ok Rap, but once you set up the suspension, doesn?t a wider tire help? You?re not running a 245 out back if you can go with a 275 right?
Well, yes and no. A 255 slick will mean more than a 305 all season you know. Some people think JUST bigger is better.
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Old 02-01-2018, 08:58 AM   #19
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Thanks for all of your guys? insight! Now i am considering coil overs and shocks which will lower my ride height. Will i need to replace any control arms off the rip or can that wait?
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Old 02-01-2018, 09:10 AM   #20
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If you're lowered you need LCA brackets ... i cant remember, but i dont think the stock LCAs fit in the relo brackets all that well, but it's been a very long time.
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Old 02-01-2018, 09:27 AM   #21
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I guess the better question here is what do i NEED once i lower the car and replace the shocks and struts
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Old 02-01-2018, 11:00 AM   #22
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LCA brackets, and an adjustable panhard bar to recenter the body.
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Old 02-01-2018, 12:06 PM   #23
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suspension

the upper and lower control arms, bushing, and relocation bracket are the important components to reduce wheel hop. there is too much flex and rubber bushings in the stock components.
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Old 02-01-2018, 10:03 PM   #24
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After SC

I installed a 650 eforce kit from Brennspeed on my auto last winter.
Was able to run 12.4 with pro all and 245/35/18 dr
Only dropped to 11.4 with SC
Ford racing springs for 1 in rear drop with BMR non adjustable LCA adjustable pan hard strange engineering adjustable front struts
Looking at 50/50 rear shocks and LCA brackets as well as 15x10 wheels to go to a 275/60/15 dr and skinnies up front
Can launch ok at 1500-1800 but breaks loose going 2 second
May go to 3:31 with the taller tire
Right now I'm getting to the traps at about 5500 rpm
At 124 mph still have some top end left
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Old 02-02-2018, 09:51 AM   #25
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Ok Rap, but once you set up the suspension, doesn?t a wider tire help? You?re not running a 245 out back if you can go with a 275 right?
Well, yes and no. A 255 slick will mean more than a 305 all season you know. Some people think JUST bigger is better.
IF it?s JUST size you?re changing, bigger (as in wider!) is better. Changing type of tire is more than changing size. I?m guessing op isn?t looking for slicks yet.
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Old 02-02-2018, 09:58 AM   #26
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I installed a 650 eforce kit from Brennspeed on my auto last winter.
Was able to run 12.4 with pro all and 245/35/18 dr
Only dropped to 11.4 with SC
Ford racing springs for 1 in rear drop with BMR non adjustable LCA adjustable pan hard strange engineering adjustable front struts
Looking at 50/50 rear shocks and LCA brackets as well as 15x10 wheels to go to a 275/60/15 dr and skinnies up front
Can launch ok at 1500-1800 but breaks loose going 2 second
May go to 3:31 with the taller tire
Right now I'm getting to the traps at about 5500 rpm
At 124 mph still have some top end left
Y not Strange adj rears? 50/50 are soft, at least the Lakewood set I had. Went with Strange rear adj shocks and it gives me the adjustability to be soft but not too soft that I squat on my fat 315?s.
There?s some fine tuning you may have to do with the Panhard bar if you squat a lot since the rear shifts when compressed. One of the reasons you don?t want to go too wide if you plan on running a soft rear suspension.
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Old 02-02-2018, 10:56 AM   #27
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Ok Rap, but once you set up the suspension, doesn?t a wider tire help? You?re not running a 245 out back if you can go with a 275 right?
Well, yes and no. A 255 slick will mean more than a 305 all season you know. Some people think JUST bigger is better.
IF it?s JUST size you?re changing, bigger (as in wider!) is better. Changing type of tire is more than changing size. I?m guessing op isn?t looking for slicks yet.
That is correct. I want it to be more of a street car more than a drag car. Currently looking for best new suspension upgrade s to get the ball rolling. Might start a thread for that. Any idea how much it costs (on avg.) for a shop to install control arms, brackets, panhard bar and diff. bushing? I dont know much about pinion angle so i would rather not do it myself
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Old 02-02-2018, 05:49 PM   #28
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If you have jack stands and a torque wrench you can do the panhard and LCA + Brackets yourself. They need to be tightened to 130 ft /lbs so i wont lie to you and say it's easy, but the majority of the job is not hard. I can do it by myself in ... mmm 2.5 - 3 hours on the floor in the garage with the vehicle on jack stands, but i have done a few now.
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Old 02-02-2018, 06:25 PM   #29
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Control arms pan hard

Bout an hour each
Done everything off jack stands including springs
Not that bad but you do have to get it high enough to pull 130 ft lbs on the torque wrench
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Old 02-03-2018, 11:40 AM   #30
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[/QUOTE]
That is correct. I want it to be more of a street car more than a drag car. Currently looking for best new suspension upgrade s to get the ball rolling. Might start a thread for that. Any idea how much it costs (on avg.) for a shop to install control arms, brackets, panhard bar and diff. bushing? I dont know much about pinion angle so i would rather not do it myself[/QUOTE]

Not sure on price since I?ve done it all myself. I?m not a big guy so to me, with the car on jack stands and blocks under the frame there?s plenty of room. The diff bushing is the only part I?d say isn?t ?easy? b/c you really need to drop the diff pretty far to get at it. That entails unbolting the PH bar, PH support, the lower bolt for shocks, the rear bolt for the LCA?s, watch the brake lines, what else am I missing? Anyway, there?s more pieces to the puzzle but since you?re disconnecting everything you?re going to replace anyway, you save time over all. As mentioned, if something isnt right afterward, it?s harder to chase down. Some ppl don?t want to deal w that so at least, if you have someone do the install, ask to see how the UCA is adjusted in case you need to adjust it later. That?s a bit of a pita but once you do it and have the right tools that can fit up in there with the suspension loaded, you can make adjustment in 5-10 minutes.
IF I had to guess, you?re looking at 3-4 hours labor at your local shop labor rates (~$100/hr?) so $300-$400. I?d want to stress they use the appropriate grease where needed so you don?t develop any squeaking a week or more later. Well that was a long winded reply. ?
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Old 02-06-2018, 12:26 PM   #31
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Upper and lower RCAs
Lower RCA relocation bracket
Eibach or FRRP suspension package

That's all I would do.
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