Suspension and wheel hop questions - Mustang Evolution

Go Back   Mustang Evolution > 1979-2015 Mustang GT || Tech and Talk > 2011-2014 Mustang GT



Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Please support our sponsors and let them know you heard about them here!
Old 02-09-2018, 09:42 AM   #1
Registered Member
Regular
 
KonaGT12's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2017
Location: New Mexico
Region: New Mexico
Posts: 106
Suspension and wheel hop questions

Hello guys and gals!

I have some suspension-related questions.
I think I am experiencing wheel-hop with my 2012 GT. What I experience is when I'm going fast and accelerating (40+ MPH) on a road with bumps (wavy asphalt, nothing major), I like my rear end (of my car LOL) starts bouncing around and like I'm going to take off in flight. First of all, does this sound like wheel hop?

Second of all, I was thinking of this kit to cure it: https://www.americanmuscle.com/bmr-s...-blk-0514.html

Third, will I need to do UCAs and brackets, will it help?

And finally, I eventually want to purchase this, will the two products be compatible?
https://www.americanmuscle.com/eibac...114-gt-v6.html

Thank you guys!
__________________
\-----------------------------------------------/
Kona Blue '12 5.0 GT: AED Performance tune, 3.73 gears, Brembo package, Premium Comfort Package, American Thunder Exhaust. Daily.

Grabber Blue ‘14 V6: Premium package, MBRP Pro Catbacks, Air Raid CAI, BAMA tune. (Wife-mobile). FOR SALE, PM ME
KonaGT12 is offline   Reply With Quote
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Old 02-09-2018, 11:41 AM   #2
Registered Member
Regular
 
Voltwings's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2014
Location: Houston
Region: Texas
Posts: 3,655
Those are all good parts, but that's not technically what wheel hop is, those are just bumps in the road... Wheel hop is when you launch from a dig and the tires grip, slip, grip, slip... and the car will actually do multiple, quick, concurrent "hops" as the tires come in and out of traction.

Those are all good parts, but for better manners on a bumpy road what you technically want is a Watts link. I'd recommend whiteline personally, but they're not cheap.
Voltwings is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-09-2018, 11:49 AM   #3
Registered Member
Regular
 
KonaGT12's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2017
Location: New Mexico
Region: New Mexico
Posts: 106
Interesting, thanks VW - what DON'T you know about mustangs?
I haven't launched hard enough to notice wheel hop yet I guess. I'm not really racing the car --- will probably do a little Auto-X when it warms up, which is why I was thinking about the Eibach kit.
__________________
\-----------------------------------------------/
Kona Blue '12 5.0 GT: AED Performance tune, 3.73 gears, Brembo package, Premium Comfort Package, American Thunder Exhaust. Daily.

Grabber Blue ‘14 V6: Premium package, MBRP Pro Catbacks, Air Raid CAI, BAMA tune. (Wife-mobile). FOR SALE, PM ME
KonaGT12 is offline   Reply With Quote
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Old 02-09-2018, 04:19 PM   #4
Registered Member
Regular
 
Voltwings's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2014
Location: Houston
Region: Texas
Posts: 3,655
Quote:
Originally Posted by KonaGT12 View Post
Interesting, thanks VW - what DON'T you know about mustangs?
How to keep my wife from talking me into selling it
Voltwings is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-09-2018, 04:19 PM   #5
Registered Member
Regular
 
Join Date: Mar 2016
Location: Edmonton
Region: Canada
Posts: 46
If you haven't had wheel hop yet you will definitely know it when you do. It feels like the rear end is shaking itself apart!

What causes it is when you accelerate quickly from stop or a slow speed you will load up the bushings in the rear upper control arm (tension) and the lower control arms (compression). The soft stock rubber bushings yield a lot. When the bushings are compressed as far as they can go they then push back hard. Like bouncing one of those old superballs! The quickness of the ricochet causes a loss of tire traction for a moment. As the bushing settles the tire regains traction, compressing the bushings again and causing another bounce in the suspension.

This can set up a resonance. Here's what it looks like. Leaf spring and perhaps more than a mustang gets but same idea. Bad for parts.

https://ca.video.search.yahoo.com/se...05&action=view

That one is a bit extreme. Ours would look more like a version of this one (note, again leaf spring but you get the idea.):

https://ca.video.search.yahoo.com/se...26&action=view

You can pretty much cure it by replacing either the upper control arm with poly bushing on the vehicle end (leaving the rubber bushing on the axle end) or replacing your lower control arms with new poly bushing models. Takes out enough rubber 'bounce' to stop the oscillation.

The bounce you are getting at driving speeds is really allowed to be greater by soft damping on stock shocks and struts combined with soft spring rates. A higher damping rate will help this a lot. Imagine a vehicle with completely shot shocks in the rear. The vehicle seems to bounce on practically flat roads. This is an exaggerated example of underdamped suspension. The purpose of a damper is to control suspension movement and allow it to more quickly return to it's neutral position. So, better shocks/struts, less uncontrolled bounce.

All the best.
__________________
2014 GT Sterling Grey Metallic, Whippled.
UUUd444 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-10-2018, 12:13 PM   #6
Registered Member
Regular
 
Beviking's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2014
Location: Syracuse
Region: New York
Posts: 807
No, going 40mph and hitting some uneven road surface and feeling the rear end ?floating? is a result of the single axle rear end. There?s enough movement going on at one tire to affect the other tire while each is in motion, essentially they are losing contact with the road simultaneously for a split second. A wheel hop kit might help but won?t cure this. If you?re planning on the lowering kit then get the wheel hop kit, it?s a good match. You won?t need the UCA and mount until you lower the car, some might argue you won?t ?need? it if you have the stock driveshaft. I?d recommend it but I don?t have a PhD in cars, I just own and drive them.
__________________
'12GT Premium, Roush TVS & BAP, VMP Elbow, 82mm, JLT CAI & Catch Can, Eiback Sports, Steeda Cambers & Adj UCA, Adj panhard & Brace, LCAs+Relos, Diff Bushing, Ford Diff Cover, Axle Catch Can, 3.73, Shaftmasters DS, MGW, BG Syncro II, Blowfish Shifter Support Bracket, Trans Mount Insert, MBRP 3" H pipe, Borla 3" Touring Pipes/Axlebacks, High Flow GT Grill Insert, Steeda Spyder Wheels (20X9.5/11), 275 fronts, 315 rears, Lakewood drag shocks, Cervini Hood, big smile
Beviking is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-11-2018, 07:40 AM   #7
Registered Member
Regular
 
audioAl's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2012
Region: Texas
Posts: 618
BMR has a watts link kit out for the 3-link ponies, it will help. If not a watts you can do rear lower control arms and an adj. panhard from BMR. They also have an upper control arm.
__________________
2014 DIB 3.7 "Blue Cyclone" /Sold
2016 ruby red GT 300 A with 3.55:1 gear/SVE resonator delete X-pipe/ UPR catch can/Airaid/AEM/Steeda/ BMR CB005/BMR CB006 brace/BMR cc plates/SVE springs/
audioAl is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-14-2018, 02:05 PM   #8
Registered Member
Regular
 
KonaGT12's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2017
Location: New Mexico
Region: New Mexico
Posts: 106
Leaving stock for now.
Will probably start Auto-Crossing and Road Racing 2-3 times a year, starting next spring.

What do you guys think of doing these parts for those activities:
  1. Eibach Pro-Dampers and Shocks
  2. Steeda Lowering Springs (1.2" front, 1.5" rear)
  3. Steeda Ball Joint Kit
  4. Steeda Bumpsteer Kit
  5. Whiteline steel adjustable panhard bar
  6. Eibach front/rear swaybar kit
  7. A set of caster/camber plates
  8. Rear LCAs and brackets
__________________
\-----------------------------------------------/
Kona Blue '12 5.0 GT: AED Performance tune, 3.73 gears, Brembo package, Premium Comfort Package, American Thunder Exhaust. Daily.

Grabber Blue ‘14 V6: Premium package, MBRP Pro Catbacks, Air Raid CAI, BAMA tune. (Wife-mobile). FOR SALE, PM ME
KonaGT12 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-14-2018, 03:37 PM   #9
Registered Member
Regular
 
Voltwings's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2014
Location: Houston
Region: Texas
Posts: 3,655
Quote:
Originally Posted by KonaGT12 View Post
Leaving stock for now.
Will probably start Auto-Crossing and Road Racing 2-3 times a year, starting next spring.

What do you guys think of doing these parts for those activities:
  1. Eibach Pro-Dampers and Shocks 2
  2. Steeda Lowering Springs (1.2" front, 1.5" rear) 3
  3. Whiteline steel adjustable panhard bar 3
  4. Eibach front/rear swaybar kit 5
  5. A set of caster/camber plates 4
  6. Rear LCAs and brackets 1
So the LCA relocation brackets and panhard bar need to be done when you lower the vehicle, because there are adverse affects that need immediate correcting. Skip the balljoint and bumpsteer kits, it's not much of a problem on this platform and not to be rude, but if you dont know what you're doing you can make things much worse. The camber plates are a very good idea, but at a novice level you will be ok without them if you need to stretch your budget a bit.

A lot of people also have a common misconception that sway bars reduce body roll. That's a side effect, but their main purpose is to fine tune over steer vs understeer by adjusting firmness at the front / rear of the car. Yes, they do help the car corner flatter, but until you're driving consistently enough to know that you need to dial oversteer / understeer in or out to suit your driving style, you can save the money there as well.
Voltwings is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-15-2018, 07:00 PM   #10
Registered Member
Regular
 
Beviking's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2014
Location: Syracuse
Region: New York
Posts: 807
Voltwings nailed it, of course.
__________________
'12GT Premium, Roush TVS & BAP, VMP Elbow, 82mm, JLT CAI & Catch Can, Eiback Sports, Steeda Cambers & Adj UCA, Adj panhard & Brace, LCAs+Relos, Diff Bushing, Ford Diff Cover, Axle Catch Can, 3.73, Shaftmasters DS, MGW, BG Syncro II, Blowfish Shifter Support Bracket, Trans Mount Insert, MBRP 3" H pipe, Borla 3" Touring Pipes/Axlebacks, High Flow GT Grill Insert, Steeda Spyder Wheels (20X9.5/11), 275 fronts, 315 rears, Lakewood drag shocks, Cervini Hood, big smile
Beviking is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Lower Navigation
Go Back   Mustang Evolution > 1979-2015 Mustang GT || Tech and Talk > 2011-2014 Mustang GT

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Wheel Hop PonyBoy415 2011-2014 Mustang GT 44 12-18-2013 08:16 AM
Wheel hop BossCNC Shelby Mustang 8 03-24-2013 09:01 AM
Wheel hop Maddhatter88 1979-1995 Mustang GT 19 05-23-2012 11:34 AM
Wheel hop Redstang1 2011-2014 Mustang GT 13 01-15-2012 02:44 PM
wheel hop S197Miller 2005-2010 Mustang GT 16 06-09-2011 12:24 PM

» Like Us On Facebook



06:49 AM


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8
Copyright ©2000 - 2018, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Content Relevant URLs by vBSEO 3.6.0
vBulletin Security provided by vBSecurity v2.2.2 (Pro) - vBulletin Mods & Addons Copyright © 2018 DragonByte Technologies Ltd.

MustangEvolution.com is in no way associated with or endorsed by Ford Motor Company.