Mustang Evolution Forum banner

Upgrading base 12 GT brakes

2K views 12 replies 5 participants last post by  MOTORCITYBADBOY 
#1 ·
Hello, I was just had a few questions on going from base brakes to the gt500 brembos. I would get take offs but I am just curious on a fair price for them, and what kind of pads and rotors would be recommended or if just stock gt500 all around is good enough(anything is better than now as it gets sketchy coming down from 100+ as of now). I would also do stainless lines all around and better fluid. One other thing is before there were some playing around with 15 GT brakes and Im wondering if they ever got them to fit on 18in rims. I havent seen anything about them for a while. Any info is great, thanks!

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G920A using Mustang Evolution mobile app
 
#3 ·
Base 13.2" brakes are just fine for street driving. Better pads and rotors will help if you are on the stock stuff tho. Some good ceramic pads and a high quality rotor plus the stainless lines will help more than going to the Brembos.
 
#4 · (Edited)
Car vibrates and pedal doesn't do much. Also after the strip doing a few back to backs car takes longer to come down. The PO changed rotors so I am not sure what is on the car. I had figured 4 piston would be better performance plus PO had painted the stock calipers poorly so I had to go over them so brembos will also look better.
Thought I would also add, I am hoping to finally VMP my car in the near future so brakes was on my list before more power.
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G920A using Mustang Evolution mobile app
 
#5 ·
All larger brakes do is add more thermal capacity, and at anything other than a racetrack, you will never need that.

Likely the PO put cheap rotors and / or cheap pads on there. Cheap rotors are machined with oil because it's easier on the tooling, but since metal is porous that oil soaks in... Name-brand rotors are machined dry and cost more since it is harder on the tooling, but you get a substantially better rotor.

A lot of people also get confused and think their rotors are warped, which causes vibration. Rotors dont warp. Pads will always make a transfer layer of material onto the rotor surface (which is why the pads need to be bedded after install), and a cheap pad that gets too hot will apply an uneven transfer layer and lead to "shaking," or "vibrating" sensations.

I'd look into centric premium blank rotors, about $100 per rotor if i remember correctly, and then some solid street pads like a G-loc GS1. I think you'll be quite happy with that setup, those are the same pads I put on my Dad's C7 z06.
 
#6 ·
Alright I will definitely keep those in mind. I made an offer on brembos and am awaiting a response as of now, but I went low at 300 so I expect it to be rejected. The least I spend while getting the brakes better the more for the go fast parts down the road. Is there much of a weight difference between upgrading to the brembos?

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G920A using Mustang Evolution mobile app
 
#7 ·
Oh, if you get them for $300 then hell yeah, go for it. I usually give the advice i just gave based on Brembo packages being like $1000+.

Also, yes, by their very nature brake rotors are designed to be heat sinks, so more thermal capacity = more weight.
 
#8 ·
Theres a few take offs and a reman for 400-450 asking price on ebay. Some come just calipers, others with front SS lines or pads so not complete but could piece it together to fit my needs

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G920A using Mustang Evolution mobile app
 
#9 ·
I just finished up brake, ss clutch and brake line installation this week. I have the Brembos. Went with Stop Tech Sport Drilled and Slotted rotors and Power Stop Z26 Ceramic pads front and rear. Powder coated and rebuilt Brembos, painted rebuilt stock rear calipers. Also went with SVE remote clutch reservoir seeing as I had the hydraulics apart.
Bleeding has been a most difficult proposition as my master cylinder completely emptied doing all this work. Four initial power bleedings, still soft pedal due to air in ABS. So, purchased Autel Maxipro scanning tool, performed ABS bleed, another full system bleed, another ABS bleed, another full system bleed. Finally system getting close, feel confident in brakes. I'll perform at least two more ABS and full system bleeds.
I've only driven once on new system, mostly to bed in rotors. Clutch is better, more feel, and seems more positive on shifts. I didn't drive car hard so I can't give good feedback on upgrades yet.
Just know that if your hydraulics go dry you're in for a difficult bleed regimen. The clutch SS line can also be lots of fun, one clip fooled me into believing secure, popped off when one bleeding nearly completed, brake fluid everywhere, back to square one.
Just be prepared for a lot of work. If you can keep fluid in master cylinder your ahead of the game.
 
#10 ·
Any update on your setup sns?

I am leaning towards EBC yellow pads and premium rotors package. Then JM lines(the russel ones wont work will they?).
Ive looked into the centric and g loc and am still putting together my own set ups to see costs. Thanks!

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G920A using Mustang Evolution mobile app
 
#11 ·
No update as of today. I've not driven car since prior post as I just picked up new motorcycle Monday. I'll likely get out this weekend if weather cooperates.

The Brembos are totally sufficient for street use even with OEM lines and rotors. I didn't change out specifically for performance, it was mostly for esthetics, powder coating calipers for new 13-14 GT500 wheels. I just figured since I had the calipers off I would change out everything.
 
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top