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Old 05-22-2013, 12:49 PM   #1
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turbo swap. running trouble

Sorry for the long post, but i am just at my wits end. Everything as far as I know is hooked up. Got all my gauges working. I'm encountering a new but similar problem. It staryed running decent and I drove it about 3miles one way to work for almost a week. Saturday it started to give me trouble. I was driving home from work and it started bucking and skipping, as if it weren't getting fuel. I could push the pedal to the floor and notjing would happen, and it would only stay running in gear to keep the motor turning. As soon as I pushed in the clutch it would die. Sometimes I could pop start it and keep driving sometimes it would keep dying. If I stopped sometimes it would crank forever before it finally turned over. Got it back home and parked it on the street.* Went to start it the next day and when I turn the key on, the fuel pump relay gives a rapid clicking, and the pump and engine light turn on and off in time with the clicking. I tried starting it and it would fire up and just die. A friend told me he had similar problems and put a new distributor in because the pip was bad and took care of it. I swapped the dizzy out of my old motor which as far as I knew was good and timed it to 10* adv and it started, idled real high almost 3k, but it was doing that while it was in the tbird and was doing while I drove the swapped car to work. It eventually kicks down and idles normal. However now it is still doing the rapid clicking relay, and keeps trying to die. It will barely stay running long enough to get past the high idle which is usually about 1-3 miles of driving or a few minutes. Agian sorry for the length, but I'm just ready to drop it off at my uncles and have him figure it out. I also what sounds like a boost leak, I hear a loud hiss after letting off the throttle even though it builds close to 14-15lbs which I have yet to locate. The egr is blocked off at the intake for right now because the flange is cracked and I was losing all power. That was done a few days prior to this. The fuel injector harness is grounded to the valve cover possibly a bad ground?* I* don't know if any of these things are related or are seperate problems, I'm just laying it all out there in hopes of help. I keep hearing that the eec could be bad, but I'd like to make sure before I go and buy a new one. Any and all suggetions on what and how to check would be greatly appreciated
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Old 05-22-2013, 01:25 PM   #2
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I foegot to add. This is a 88 2.3 turbo motor out of a thunderbird. Eec has been swapped and wiring verified to have been done properly. It is now in my 89 mustang lx
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Old 05-24-2013, 11:08 AM   #3
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I got a code reader fromsummit today. Here is what I got from KOEO test. The computer had been reset yesterday and hasn't been run other than a few minutes at idle. So the out of range codes could be attributes to that.<br />
21- cooling temp sensor OOR<br />
22- MAP OOR<br />
23- TPS OOR<br />
24- Vane air temp/air charge temp OOR<br />
58- Vane air control circuit fault, circuit open<br />
81- air diverter solenoid fault, I take air control circuit fault/ air injection diverter<br />
82- air diverter solenoid circuit fault or super charger bypass circuit fault<br />
83- (multiple showed up so the * indicates a seperate deffinition)<br />
*cooling fan circuit ( wired to a toggle)<br />
* low speed fuel pump relay circuit fault/ circuit open<br />
*evp/egrc/egrv<br />
84- egr vacuum regulator circuit failure<br />
458- speed control command switches stuck or circuit control<br />
I used a Equus 3145 code reader and definition book to retrieve these, and are stated almost word for word. I assume the &quot;circuit failure/circuit open&quot; Indicate bad/bare wires somewhere. I'm looking through my haynes manual now for testing and troubleshooting the sensors to see if they are in fact bad, or bare wires somewhere
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Old 05-24-2013, 11:31 AM   #4
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No real fixes I can tell you about, but i'm sorry to hear you're having trouble. Godspeed, good sir!
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Old 06-22-2013, 04:15 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kfuson92 View Post
I got a code reader fromsummit today. Here is what I got from KOEO test. The computer had been reset yesterday and hasn't been run other than a few minutes at idle. So the out of range codes could be attributes to that.<br />
21- cooling temp sensor OOR<br />
22- MAP OOR<br />
23- TPS OOR<br />
24- Vane air temp/air charge temp OOR<br />
58- Vane air control circuit fault, circuit open<br />
81- air diverter solenoid fault, I take air control circuit fault/ air injection diverter<br />
82- air diverter solenoid circuit fault or super charger bypass circuit fault<br />
83- (multiple showed up so the * indicates a seperate deffinition)<br />
*cooling fan circuit ( wired to a toggle)<br />
* low speed fuel pump relay circuit fault/ circuit open<br />
*evp/egrc/egrv<br />
84- egr vacuum regulator circuit failure<br />
458- speed control command switches stuck or circuit control<br />
I used a Equus 3145 code reader and definition book to retrieve these, and are stated almost word for word. I assume the "circuit failure/circuit open" Indicate bad/bare wires somewhere. I'm looking through my haynes manual now for testing and troubleshooting the sensors to see if they are in fact bad, or bare wires somewhere
Buy a new car
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