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Old 04-05-2013, 05:49 PM   #1
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How do i know ??

How do I know if any after market modification I'm buying is better then the original ???
Since Shelby SVT stated that the parts already on the 2013 gt500 are top notch.
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Old 04-05-2013, 09:35 PM   #2
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I would say learn to drive what you have really well before increasing and if you are there already than get a tune. I am sure there are alot of horses left on the table by ford
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Old 04-06-2013, 09:19 AM   #3
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I used to drive 1999 cobra and there was a lot of tuning I can install air filter, fuel pump, injectors, etc... But brand didn't matter cuz whatever I put in it I felt its was better than the original. Now how can I top the one that SVT put in it ?? I have to look carefully into the brand of the parts I buy and compare them with the ones installed.

So r u suggesting only buy what ford has to offer not any other brands ?
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Old 04-06-2013, 10:14 AM   #4
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I used to drive 1999 cobra and there was a lot of tuning I can install air filter, fuel pump, injectors, etc... But brand didn't matter cuz whatever I put in it I felt its was better than the original. Now how can I top the one that SVT put in it ?? I have to look carefully into the brand of the parts I buy and compare them with the ones installed.

So r u suggesting only buy what ford has to offer not any other brands ?
I would say what Mods do you want to do to it? If it is just side louvers and trim then aftermarket is cheaper. If it is engine and power I would have to do a lot of investigating before I replaced anything. Then ask myself what is this going to give me 5 or 10 HP (I don't think I would ever feel it myself) is it worth the cost and the time? Do you do your own Mods or do you have someone else install them for you is another question that brings up the cost of a Mod. About the only Mod I have planned for mine is the Torsen rear end and I will use Fords factory set.
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Old 04-07-2013, 12:00 AM   #5
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Usually if there is a benefit to an aftermarket part (for performance) the gains will be noted for how much you will pick up over the stock parts. It won't be hard to know. Ford did leave some hp on the table. They will always stay on the safer side. Good news, a good tune will help get those extra hp and still be safe. I wouldn't do anything that would void my warranty.
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Old 04-07-2013, 12:04 AM   #6
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A tune will void any part that is affected by the tune so drivetrain and computer...and pretty much any performance mod worth doing will require a tune so if you care about a warranty then stick to cosmetic upgrades
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Old 04-07-2013, 01:11 AM   #7
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Exactly.
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Tint, louvers, Shelby brake light cover, sequentials, brake vent ring delete, Shorty antenna, JLT cold air intake, BAMA tune, VMP 2.5 S/C pulley, Ford racing shifter, MRT OR-H, SLP loudmouths, BMR adj PHB, BMR LCA, Eibach Pro-Kit, cobra jet big oval TB.
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Old 04-07-2013, 09:19 PM   #8
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I want to do exhaust/ cold air intake/ pulley/ and tune. That's about as far as Iwant to go performance wise on upgrades until the car is paid for. I got the extended warranty through ford. I would hate to screw that up but I want more POWA!!!
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Old 04-07-2013, 09:48 PM   #9
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go with Vmp on the pulley/idler I like jlt on the cai but you really don't need one probably would be fine with your stock one...I would suggest borla or frpp on the axlebacks and probably looks on headers (btw frpp and borla exhaust is practically the same) Vmp is also some of the best tuners of the tvs so I would suggest them for the tune as well
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Old 04-07-2013, 11:08 PM   #10
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I have the VMP 2.5 pulley. Originally ordered it in the stainless but they stopped making them. They were having trouble with them. So they sent me the stock look instead. It made my car almost scary at times. Definitely worth the investment.
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Tint, louvers, Shelby brake light cover, sequentials, brake vent ring delete, Shorty antenna, JLT cold air intake, BAMA tune, VMP 2.5 S/C pulley, Ford racing shifter, MRT OR-H, SLP loudmouths, BMR adj PHB, BMR LCA, Eibach Pro-Kit, cobra jet big oval TB.
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Old 04-08-2013, 02:34 AM   #11
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Yeah i was thinking JLT or steeda for the cold air. I figure if I need to take the car in for service then I can put the stock air intake back on and re flash the car to stock. The new SC pulley however would be a bit more complicated. If I get one that looks stock the dealer may not know. I already have the pype bomb axleback on the way to me

---------- Post added at 02:34 AM ---------- Previous post was at 02:32 AM ----------

I've heard nothing but good things about the TVS pulley so if I do pull the trigger on. Pulley I will def go w them I think. Thank you both for the recommendations! I just don't wanna have to pay a huge out of pocket repair if something breaks, just having the car payment is bad enough lol. It's worth it though
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Old 04-08-2013, 07:55 AM   #12
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If you can't afford to pay for something if it breaks than don't mod the engine till its out of Warrenty because even if you flash it back they can't still see it on the newer cars so any major claim will be rejected....on another note you have a 662 hp monster more than most of us have that don't have a supercharger upgrade why are you in such a big hurry to change things...why not start with things that don't affect Warrenty....like tires, suspension, axleback exhaust, exterior mods, etc then move to some of the performance mods...If you don't have a whole lot of extra money after your car payment anyway it will probably take you a few years to get all of those things worked out and the. Your Warrenty would be up and you would know if your car was going to have any major Warrenty issues....that's what I would do....
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Old 04-08-2013, 07:58 AM   #13
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You have to make a choice. More power or warranty. Can't have both
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Old 04-08-2013, 08:54 AM   #14
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If you can't afford to pay for something if it breaks than don't mod the engine till its out of Warrenty because even if you flash it back they can't still see it on the newer cars so any major claim will be rejected....on another note you have a 662 hp monster more than most of us have that don't have a supercharger upgrade why are you in such a big hurry to change things...why not start with things that don't affect Warrenty....like tires, suspension, axleback exhaust, exterior mods, etc then move to some of the performance mods...If you don't have a whole lot of extra money after your car payment anyway it will probably take you a few years to get all of those things worked out and the. Your Warrenty would be up and you would know if your car was going to have any major Warrenty issues....that's what I would do....
^this. Tires and suspension(springs, panhard, lca's and uca) will make a huge difference putting the power to the ground.
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Old 04-09-2013, 12:14 AM   #15
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Uuugh!! You guys are right i know I know. I guess I just get intoxicated by the big power gains that can be had from these minor bolt ons. I should be patient though. My shelby is a 2010 so my hp rating is 540 not 662. Should I invest much in suspension mods since my shelby is a daily driver and not a track car? Just want to make sure it's worth it for my application. I have heard that new upper and lower control arms do make a big difference. What other things do you guys think in should look into? I have my eyes on some headlights from raxiom. Instead of the steeda cold air intake I guess incould go with a k&n or air aid that doesn't require a tune. My axleback exhaust arrived in the mail today (pype bomb)
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Old 04-09-2013, 12:20 AM   #16
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Tint the windows, add louvers, do a few cheap cosmetic things. Lowering always helps. Adds traction and makes a big difference in the looks. I have SLP loudmouths. I love them.
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Tint, louvers, Shelby brake light cover, sequentials, brake vent ring delete, Shorty antenna, JLT cold air intake, BAMA tune, VMP 2.5 S/C pulley, Ford racing shifter, MRT OR-H, SLP loudmouths, BMR adj PHB, BMR LCA, Eibach Pro-Kit, cobra jet big oval TB.
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Old 04-09-2013, 09:02 AM   #17
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Uuugh!! You guys are right i know I know. I guess I just get intoxicated by the big power gains that can be had from these minor bolt ons. I should be patient though. My shelby is a 2010 so my hp rating is 540 not 662. Should I invest much in suspension mods since my shelby is a daily driver and not a track car? Just want to make sure it's worth it for my application. I have heard that new upper and lower control arms do make a big difference. What other things do you guys think in should look into? I have my eyes on some headlights from raxiom. Instead of the steeda cold air intake I guess incould go with a k&n or air aid that doesn't require a tune. My axleback exhaust arrived in the mail today (pype bomb)
Do not do any cai without a tune...1st they do little for as far as hp and they will cause you to go really lean...just wait till your ready to tune it then get a jlt 123mm you won't be disappointed... Sorry the op was a 2013 so we assumed
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Old 04-09-2013, 01:57 PM   #18
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Even the ones from air raid that say they don't need a tune? Just a filter replacement? You would advise stay away? I will take the good advice here and try to focus on mods that don't involve me going into the power train for now. I wonder how much I would need to save up to upgrade this 2010 to a super snake lol. Hey a guy can dream right?
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Old 04-09-2013, 04:24 PM   #19
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Super snake is about 36k depending on the mods but for about 10k you could have most of the exterior mods and as much or more hp...and yes on the air raid as well
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Old 04-09-2013, 04:34 PM   #20
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He is exactly right. The real extra power from any new cai comes from the tune. When the warranty ends, do all those mods. Until then, cosmetics or save until its time.
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Tint, louvers, Shelby brake light cover, sequentials, brake vent ring delete, Shorty antenna, JLT cold air intake, BAMA tune, VMP 2.5 S/C pulley, Ford racing shifter, MRT OR-H, SLP loudmouths, BMR adj PHB, BMR LCA, Eibach Pro-Kit, cobra jet big oval TB.
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Old 04-09-2013, 08:09 PM   #21
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Ok I guess I will take the money inhave saved and apply it to the principle of my car loan and exterior mods. I would like to do a different shifter setup though. I have a hard time with the 1-2 shift. Maybe a differen fluid would help as well. Is there a good replacement for the stock air filter that you would reccomend? The motorcraft one is pretty pricey for a stock filter.
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Old 04-09-2013, 08:21 PM   #22
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I know there was a TSB on the 07-09's because of the hard shift and a few other things. Maybe somebody else might know more about the 10's. it sure wouldn't hurt to ask the dealership if it is still under warranty. If def get it fixed before it ran out. As for air filter, get what u like that doesn't require a tune. One at a descent price.

I have a ford racing shifter in mine and I wouldn't want it any other way. My gears are literally 2 inches apart. They are expensive but it is a thing of beauty.
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Old 04-09-2013, 09:34 PM   #23
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Yeah I got an extended warranty through ford when I got the car so I'm sure it would be covered. There is no grinding, just more difficult to her it into gear when going into 2nd. Also it seems to be a much rougher shift once it's in there. Yeah air raid makes a replacement filter that doesn't require a tune that's why I was asking about that one, since it isn't too expensive. I will do more research on that though.

---------- Post added at 09:34 PM ---------- Previous post was at 09:31 PM ----------

I have heard good things about the ford racing shifter as well as the MGW. Im thing to hunt for the best deal right now. Thanks for the feedback and advice everybody. It means a lot to a shelby noob
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Old 04-09-2013, 09:37 PM   #24
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To get rid of that you would need better fluid most go with redline or amsoil... The 2010s don't have a tsb because they have upgraded clutch and flywheel stock... As far as filter if your staying with no tune the stock filter is not bad if you want a reusable I like k&n


Oh and extended warranties don't cover clutch and flywheel just the actual transmission... I just recently found that out
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Old 04-09-2013, 09:51 PM   #25
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Oh that's right. If something happens to mine and its not covered by TSB, y'all say a little prayer. I don't know what I'll do.
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Old 04-09-2013, 10:59 PM   #26
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You will do like many others and go get a McLeod RXT
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Old 04-10-2013, 05:59 AM   #27
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Doesn't cover the cough and flywheel? Damn that's shady. Weak sauce ford :-/. Yeah I am thinking about switching to redline for my motor oil, tranny fluid, and differential fluid.
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Old 04-10-2013, 06:36 AM   #28
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I have no problem with shifting my 2013 is it any different then the older models ?
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Old 04-10-2013, 07:55 AM   #29
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the 2010 was upgraded over the 07-09 and I believe they beefed the 2013s up from the 2010 but I'm not 100% on the 13s
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Old 04-10-2013, 01:06 PM   #30
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I thought I had a 1-2 shift issue but then I realized it was just me. I've had the car almost a year and it took me a few months to get used to it(and actually drive it). You just need to be deliberate and patient when shifting. Now I have no problem powershifting or speed shifting at all with everything stock. However, some guys on multiple forums have had real issues with the 1-2 shift and I believe the '13's have accounted for it. I even took mine in to a Ford dealership and of course couldn't replicate this issue either.

I have a '12 and I did the air raid blue synthetic filter and ford racing resonator delete for looks. Don't need a tune on those pieces and the supercharger whine is slightly louder. It also cleans up the engine compartment.
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Old 04-10-2013, 03:21 PM   #31
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Lol i probably am the cause of the issue in all honesty. Weird man I was actualy just about to order the blue air raid dry filter and the resonator delete haha. I'm getting my axleback put on Thursday morning when I get off of nightshift.
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Old 04-10-2013, 03:23 PM   #32
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How do I know if any after market modification I'm buying is better then the original ???
Since Shelby SVT stated that the parts already on the 2013 gt500 are top notch.
You have a gt500 and you're modding it?!? Haha Jk no but if you have the money I'm sure tuning suspension would be the best thing for the car
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Old 04-11-2013, 06:18 PM   #33
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Shelby shifters are notoriously notchy. So make sure it's a real problem and not just the notchiness.
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Old 04-11-2013, 07:11 PM   #34
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Problem or not I keep reading how after upgrading to a Barton or a MGW the driving experience and shift quality really improves. This will be one of the few mods I can get away with right now so I think it's worth pursuing.

Oh and just an update I like the pype bomb system. I was hoping that it would be louder though. Inside the car it almost seems close to stock until de-acceleration and that's when I can really hear the burble. I took a video of it starting up from outside of the car though, and it sounds mean as hell. A wonderful growl. Just wish I could have that sound on the inside and not just outside.
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Old 04-12-2013, 12:03 AM   #35
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My SLP's are that way too. I think I need a full exhaust to be happy. Don't get me wrong, it sounds good but I want a raw sound.
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