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Old 06-06-2015, 06:26 PM   #1
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675 VMP kit

Decided to go upgrade and went with the 675 kit from VMP for my 2012 RS3? Does anyone have any experience with this kit? How much of a difference am I going to feel and how safe is it for the car?
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Old 06-14-2015, 09:31 AM   #2
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I didn't look up what came with this kit, but I am guessing it is very similar to the phase 3 roush upgrade, CAI, boost a pump, and tune. The phase 3 kit added 100 rwhp to my new 14 that only had 1k miles on it. Prior to upgrade it made 472 rwhp and after 572. Our cars should have came with this upgrade period. It completely wakes the car up and you will be thrilled!!! It also looks much better to open the hood and see the CAI, mine is signed by Jack which also adds a nice touch. Enjoy man!! It is a safe reputable tune. I would also highly recommend a 1 piece drive shaft, and if you have not already changed, get an MGW short shifter, it is needed for sure.
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Phase 3 upgrade including CAI, Fuel pump voltage regulator, (648rwhp), 582 torque, Kooks LT headers with off road H pipe, Vossen CV3's, ID1000's, Steeda Heat Exchanger, BMR LCA's,relocation brackets, adjustable Panhard bar, Rear sway bar, Steeda Aluminum driveshaft, X-brace, Differential cover, torque box brace/frame rails, Shelby trans cooler, Mcleod RST clutch/lightweight steel flywheel w/SS clutch line, RP fluids, whiteline transmission bushing,MGW race spec short shifter,Ford racing twin 65mm throttle body, Pro Dyno tuned
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Old 06-16-2015, 05:23 PM   #3
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I have had the kit on for a few days now and love it! I just have to learn how to put the new power to the road. It spins all the way through second and some of third if I am not careful. Thinking about the upgrading the drive shaft next. Don't really know to much about it though. What advantages would it give the car?
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Old 06-16-2015, 05:58 PM   #4
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Aaaahhhh putting the power to the road.....Good luck with that, ha ha. You can do plenty of things to help with that....I guess it all depends on what you want to spend. I am guessing you still have the factory 20's on yours. If so, you will never really get good traction with them. Naturally the Cooper tires are not the best out there, maybe the Nitto's are a little more sticky...But with 20's you will never really hook the way you would like to. It all depends what your goals are ya know. I have tried plenty of upgrades to help put the power to the road, and my conclusion is take 20's off if you really want to run 1/4 mile or destroy people at stop light racing, you simply need more tire. As for upgrading to a 1 piece driveshaft and it's advantages. It's much lighter, I am guessing 20lb's or more. It's one piece so its rotational mass is faster, giving you more RWHP. So it actually will break your tires loose even worse then you are now. It can also hold much more HP and TQ then the 2 piece clunker. The car will actually feel lighter overall.
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Phase 3 upgrade including CAI, Fuel pump voltage regulator, (648rwhp), 582 torque, Kooks LT headers with off road H pipe, Vossen CV3's, ID1000's, Steeda Heat Exchanger, BMR LCA's,relocation brackets, adjustable Panhard bar, Rear sway bar, Steeda Aluminum driveshaft, X-brace, Differential cover, torque box brace/frame rails, Shelby trans cooler, Mcleod RST clutch/lightweight steel flywheel w/SS clutch line, RP fluids, whiteline transmission bushing,MGW race spec short shifter,Ford racing twin 65mm throttle body, Pro Dyno tuned
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Old 06-16-2015, 06:01 PM   #5
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The 1 piece DS is basically just another thing that should have came from Roush on our cars...along with the upgrade you just did, and LCA's as well. It's frustrating that we paid so much and the car lacks a few things.
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Phase 3 upgrade including CAI, Fuel pump voltage regulator, (648rwhp), 582 torque, Kooks LT headers with off road H pipe, Vossen CV3's, ID1000's, Steeda Heat Exchanger, BMR LCA's,relocation brackets, adjustable Panhard bar, Rear sway bar, Steeda Aluminum driveshaft, X-brace, Differential cover, torque box brace/frame rails, Shelby trans cooler, Mcleod RST clutch/lightweight steel flywheel w/SS clutch line, RP fluids, whiteline transmission bushing,MGW race spec short shifter,Ford racing twin 65mm throttle body, Pro Dyno tuned
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Old 06-18-2015, 02:27 PM   #6
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DS will be my next upgrade then. More than likely I will end of getting Drag Radials for traction. Had them on my Lightning and they did pretty good at times. I could not agree more that Roush could have done more. I love my car but it amazes me how much Roush left out.
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Old 06-18-2015, 02:55 PM   #7
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One of the main reasons I have not put drag radials on mine is so many complaints in regards to our MT-82 transmission. I am afraid if I really hook the tranny will break.
Realistically our transmission is rated for 385ft lb of torque....Currently I have over 530 tq at the wheels on the dyno. So if I hook, I am guessing it breaks, and with my payments I certainly can't afford the upgrade to the Tremec XL. Shelby came with this upgraded beefy tranny, as Roush should have.....I got a Roush for many reasons, but there are a few glaring weaknesses. I may have saved some money initially going with a Roush over a Shelby, but at the end of the day and with future resale, I made a poor decision. But I will say this over and over. Nothing is worse to me in life then being the same as everybody else. Roush is very rare and extremely limited. So at large mustang shows, I really enjoy being one of the FEW Roush owners, vs. the thousand of Shelby owners. Both are great though!!!! I also love Built GT's, great bang for you buck.
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Phase 3 upgrade including CAI, Fuel pump voltage regulator, (648rwhp), 582 torque, Kooks LT headers with off road H pipe, Vossen CV3's, ID1000's, Steeda Heat Exchanger, BMR LCA's,relocation brackets, adjustable Panhard bar, Rear sway bar, Steeda Aluminum driveshaft, X-brace, Differential cover, torque box brace/frame rails, Shelby trans cooler, Mcleod RST clutch/lightweight steel flywheel w/SS clutch line, RP fluids, whiteline transmission bushing,MGW race spec short shifter,Ford racing twin 65mm throttle body, Pro Dyno tuned
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Old 06-18-2015, 02:57 PM   #8
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It won't break. I make over 780ft lb of tq.

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Old 06-18-2015, 03:21 PM   #9
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675 VMP kit

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It won't break. I make over 780ft lb of tq.

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Good God, that's just wow...
Get a bigger shot on that thing!
I don't think it's strong enough...

Adventure till you drop.
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Old 06-18-2015, 09:06 PM   #10
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Rapinator,

Where is your build sheet? That is some serious power you have man. I am interested in pushing my car further, but I don't know that much about cars. I am just learning or trying to. I seen some photos of your mustangs but I didn't see any mod list. Can you give me some info of what you have and what you have done? Thanks man
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Phase 3 upgrade including CAI, Fuel pump voltage regulator, (648rwhp), 582 torque, Kooks LT headers with off road H pipe, Vossen CV3's, ID1000's, Steeda Heat Exchanger, BMR LCA's,relocation brackets, adjustable Panhard bar, Rear sway bar, Steeda Aluminum driveshaft, X-brace, Differential cover, torque box brace/frame rails, Shelby trans cooler, Mcleod RST clutch/lightweight steel flywheel w/SS clutch line, RP fluids, whiteline transmission bushing,MGW race spec short shifter,Ford racing twin 65mm throttle body, Pro Dyno tuned
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Old 06-18-2015, 09:07 PM   #11
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Originally Posted by jamyzd30 View Post
Rapinator,

Where is your build sheet? That is some serious power you have man. I am interested in pushing my car further, but I don't know that much about cars. I am just learning or trying to. I seen some photos of your mustangs but I didn't see any mod list. Can you give me some info of what you have and what you have done? Thanks man
He is running some ridiculous shot of nitrous lol. I think it is 300.
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Old 06-18-2015, 09:08 PM   #12
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Nitrous out the @$$...


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Old 06-18-2015, 09:10 PM   #13
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Originally Posted by jamyzd30 View Post
Rapinator,

Where is your build sheet? That is some serious power you have man. I am interested in pushing my car further, but I don't know that much about cars. I am just learning or trying to. I seen some photos of your mustangs but I didn't see any mod list. Can you give me some info of what you have and what you have done? Thanks man
Built Motor. (E85)
Full ARP hardware
Manley H beams
Diamond pistons. 11.5 compression
Slight headwork
Boss manifold, with single rail direct port mounted under manifold (300 shot )
JlT cai
MagnaFlow off road x
MagnaFlow street cat back
That's pretty much it for power

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Old 06-18-2015, 09:15 PM   #14
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Rap, you got one bottle or two?


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Old 06-18-2015, 09:16 PM   #15
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* also single rail DP sucks. Going to plug it and run a dual stage distribution block style DP on top of the manifold b4 long.
The single rail sucks bc the full rail has to be full of fuel b4 it hits.
But new build is slow this year as I told my wife I would take it easy for this year.

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Old 06-18-2015, 09:17 PM   #16
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Rap, you got one bottle or two?


Adventure till you drop.
I have 2, 1 is in the trunk. The other is mounted on the floor behind the passenger seat.

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Old 06-18-2015, 09:18 PM   #17
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What's your pressure?


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Old 06-18-2015, 09:19 PM   #18
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What's your pressure?


Adventure till you drop.
It varies usually like to keep it around 1,000-1,200

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Old 06-18-2015, 09:28 PM   #19
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:thumbup:

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Old 06-18-2015, 10:49 PM   #20
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Sexy@$$ tail lights...


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Old 06-20-2015, 11:12 AM   #21
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gentlemen, got s slight situation with the new kit. I have had it on for a week now and the car runs great. However, for the last few days it has shut off once a day for no reason. It does it when I am slowing down and take it out of gear. It shows the battery light and oil light when it shuts off. It starts right back up and runs fine. Is it the tune or something simple like a battery of something?
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Old 06-20-2015, 11:19 AM   #22
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Is your battery good, voltage and charge percentage wise? Oil level/pressure good? But as you stated I'd check the tune...


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Old 06-20-2015, 12:41 PM   #23
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What rpm does it idle at? Probably need to increase idle on your tune. Going through that with my new TB
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Old 06-20-2015, 01:14 PM   #24
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It idles between 7-900 rpm. Did you have any luck once you increased your idle and if you did what did you change it to?
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Old 06-20-2015, 06:38 PM   #25
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It was a bad battery.
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Old 06-21-2015, 11:40 AM   #26
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You sure it was your battery? What lead you to believe that? It started fine every time, it stalled only once then started right back up and ran fine? Mine is doing the same thing when not driven for a little while. It stalls once on the way out of neighborhood and after that it is fine. It didn't start happening to me until after header install and new tune. I am quite confident it is tune related. The car seems fine once it is warm though, but I feel I need an adjustment.
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Phase 3 upgrade including CAI, Fuel pump voltage regulator, (648rwhp), 582 torque, Kooks LT headers with off road H pipe, Vossen CV3's, ID1000's, Steeda Heat Exchanger, BMR LCA's,relocation brackets, adjustable Panhard bar, Rear sway bar, Steeda Aluminum driveshaft, X-brace, Differential cover, torque box brace/frame rails, Shelby trans cooler, Mcleod RST clutch/lightweight steel flywheel w/SS clutch line, RP fluids, whiteline transmission bushing,MGW race spec short shifter,Ford racing twin 65mm throttle body, Pro Dyno tuned
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Old 06-21-2015, 12:44 PM   #27
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It idles between 7-900 rpm. Did you have any luck once you increased your idle and if you did what did you change it to?
My battery is pretty new and I'm gonna go for around 1k which is what it idled at factory. When my AC is on and it's under load, that's when it does it for me.
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Old 06-21-2015, 01:48 PM   #28
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Jamyzd30, I took it to autozone just to check the battery and it was bad. I have never had a bad battery act like that normally a bad battery gives me trouble on the start but this time it just happened this way. Thought the salesman was just trying to make a sale but the car has not shut off since the new battery was installed. Hopefully that's all it was.
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Old 06-21-2015, 01:53 PM   #29
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Ubnbit, man I hope that's something simple to fix. Who did your tune?
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Old 06-21-2015, 09:08 PM   #30
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It's a Bama tune but it's the new throttle body. There's 0 problem when I'm driving. I'll be getting some data logging done in the next week or so. I'll let them know and I'm sure it'll be an easy fix. It idles fine on initial startup. After idle drops, it falls pretty low.
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Old 06-22-2015, 02:35 AM   #31
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It's a Bama tune but it's the new throttle body. There's 0 problem when I'm driving. I'll be getting some data logging done in the next week or so. I'll let them know and I'm sure it'll be an easy fix. It idles fine on initial startup. After idle drops, it falls pretty low.
Seems like it should be as easy as raising your neutral idle..
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Old 06-22-2015, 03:40 AM   #32
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^ my brother is correct!
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Old 06-24-2015, 10:42 PM   #33
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Hey Jamyzd30 you get your car lined out? It took a couple of days for mine to start shutting off again after the new battery. Talk with the guys at VMP. Getting a new tune done for mine.
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Old 06-24-2015, 10:44 PM   #34
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My bad i meant ubnit.
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Old 06-25-2015, 12:49 AM   #35
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I also talked with Justin at VMP, he mentioned he could fix issue by making a few adjustments without dyno tuning. I know he will be at mustang week coming up in Myrtle Beach. I considered using him and have read a few mixed reviews, mostly good. I just don't want a canned tune. I want my car on a dyno and fine adjustments made to my car and my mods. So I am considering making the trip to Florida to have Justin Dyno tune it or have Pro Dyno tune it at mustang week. Either way I think it cost around 500. Keep us posted as to what the fix is if you get it ironed out before us, thanks bro.
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Phase 3 upgrade including CAI, Fuel pump voltage regulator, (648rwhp), 582 torque, Kooks LT headers with off road H pipe, Vossen CV3's, ID1000's, Steeda Heat Exchanger, BMR LCA's,relocation brackets, adjustable Panhard bar, Rear sway bar, Steeda Aluminum driveshaft, X-brace, Differential cover, torque box brace/frame rails, Shelby trans cooler, Mcleod RST clutch/lightweight steel flywheel w/SS clutch line, RP fluids, whiteline transmission bushing,MGW race spec short shifter,Ford racing twin 65mm throttle body, Pro Dyno tuned
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