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Old 12-03-2015, 01:40 PM   #71
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rosariors3 View Post
I think the car handle fine. As I said before there's to much spin. I know that there always gonna b that issue because of the power.


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Get the lower arms on and the relocation brackets setup with the front of the arms level to a little higher towards the front of the car. That will help immensely with traction and wheel hop. What you are doing is adding anti squat. Instead of power sucking the rear end up into the body and bouncing it back down repeatedly (wheel hop) the leverage of the relocated arms will push the body up and the rear end down relative to the center of gravity. Drag racers sometimes call this "percentage of rise". The arms do not need to be adjustable and it doesn't matter if they are round or square, steel or billet aluminum. Get what looks good to you or fits your budget. There are minor differences which really don't add up to much for your application. Always use poly bushings on a street car unless you are okay with a bunch of added NVH and like to replace rod ends every time they hammer out and get sloppy. I am not familiar with the Roush gear so I don't know what you have on there, but if your car is lowered and you are planning on a one piece drive shaft (highly recommended for your power level) then you will need an adjustable upper to correctly set the pinion angle. Use Poly bushings here too. If you have a stock mustang upper, it has to go. If Roush added something, it needs to have a very firm bushing in it or you may still have some wheel hop. You can adjust the pinion angle with either adjustable upper or lowers, but I recommend adjustable upper because its super easy to adjust your car out of square with adjustable lowers, plus it moves the wheels forward and backwards as you adjust while the upper only effects pinion angle and you can't possibly adjust it out of square.
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Old 12-03-2015, 01:43 PM   #72
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This might be helpful to visualize whats going on here.

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Old 12-03-2015, 01:57 PM   #73
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You can see in that picture above how the instant center (The point where imaginary lines intersect) is moved up when the arms are adjusted upwards. This increases anti squat and aids traction. More, is more. BUT it also effects roll steer (Rear of car steers like a skateboard as the body rolls) when you add anti-squat so you only want as much as you need. Also, excessive anti squat can shock the tires loose so more's better doesn't apply here 100%. My arms are about 1" higher at the front and that seems like a nice all around compromise for straight line traction and good cornering stability. I drag race my car and also road race it and it does both exceedingly well.
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Old 12-03-2015, 02:08 PM   #74
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Here is another good one from my library.
Lowered mustangs typically have suspension like the car in the center picture.
This arrangement promotes wheel hop and poor traction.

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Old 12-03-2015, 03:26 PM   #75
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Thanks Fabman for the input and the diagrams. Very helpful


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Old 12-03-2015, 03:44 PM   #76
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Yes them diagrams are great along with his explanation. I know neither my 13 or 14 stage 3 had much wheel hope though, natually your tires will spin with your VMP upgrade, you have to feather that gas pedal. So I think you are seeing, 1st get some good LCA's and relocation brackets....But I have done that, and trust me, you will still spin and slide sideways slightly until it hooks. You NEED more tire at the end of the day. You see all the new track/muscle cars coming stock with 305 tires on all 4's the Z28, new Mustang GT 350R even has 315's along wiht lightweight carbon fiber wheels. So you need both if you really want to hook with that kind of horse power.
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Old 12-03-2015, 04:23 PM   #77
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Yes them diagrams are great along with his explanation. I know neither my 13 or 14 stage 3 had much wheel hope though, natually your tires will spin with your VMP upgrade, you have to feather that gas pedal. So I think you are seeing, 1st get some good LCA's and relocation brackets....But I have done that, and trust me, you will still spin and slide sideways slightly until it hooks. You NEED more tire at the end of the day. You see all the new track/muscle cars coming stock with 305 tires on all 4's the Z28, new Mustang GT 350R even has 315's along wiht lightweight carbon fiber wheels. So you need both if you really want to hook with that kind of horse power.
Agreed, bigger/better tires are a given.
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Old 12-03-2015, 04:27 PM   #78
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also, I forgot to mention an adjustable pan hard bar....as always, use poly bushings on a street car.
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Old 12-03-2015, 05:14 PM   #79
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Originally Posted by jamyzd30 View Post
Yes them diagrams are great along with his explanation. I know neither my 13 or 14 stage 3 had much wheel hope though, natually your tires will spin with your VMP upgrade, you have to feather that gas pedal. So I think you are seeing, 1st get some good LCA's and relocation brackets....But I have done that, and trust me, you will still spin and slide sideways slightly until it hooks. You NEED more tire at the end of the day. You see all the new track/muscle cars coming stock with 305 tires on all 4's the Z28, new Mustang GT 350R even has 315's along wiht lightweight carbon fiber wheels. So you need both if you really want to hook with that kind of horse power.

Yea jamy I'm def gonna look into tires just wish roush made that size rim to fit a bigger tire


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Old 12-03-2015, 05:51 PM   #80
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Yea jamy I'm def gonna look into tires just wish roush made that size rim to fit a bigger tire


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Whatever size you end up going to you'll want a good soft tire.
I went from BFG's to Proxe 888's and it made a much more civilized car out it.
Not sure what you are looking to put up with but there are good hooking street tires out there but noise and wear are going to be effected.
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