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Old 01-22-2014, 12:55 PM   #1
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New car issues

Hey all, I'm back on here again because I just bought an 01 cobra. It's a great car so far but is already having a few small problems.
3rd gear grinds about 50% of the time and sometimes won't even let me put it into 3rd. The clutch is flat to the floor and it even does it when you do it slowly and precisely, so I don't believe it's driver error. Bad synchro maybe?

The other problem is smoking. It puffs out some blueish smoke which I believe means it's burning oil. I've had the car a week and have driven it about 300+ miles and haven't noticed the oil level going down, it just smokes pretty bad when you crank it. I'm guessing some sort of seal might be leaking?
Thanks to anyone who might be of assistance.
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Old 01-22-2014, 01:27 PM   #2
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Hey all, I'm back on here again because I just bought an 01 cobra. It's a great car so far but is already having a few small problems.
3rd gear grinds about 50% of the time and sometimes won't even let me put it into 3rd. The clutch is flat to the floor and it even does it when you do it slowly and precisely, so I don't believe it's driver error. Bad synchro maybe?

The other problem is smoking. It puffs out some blueish smoke which I believe means it's burning oil. I've had the car a week and have driven it about 300+ miles and haven't noticed the oil level going down, it just smokes pretty bad when you crank it. I'm guessing some sort of seal might be leaking?
Thanks to anyone who might be of assistance.
As far as the tranny goes try going from all other gears (one at a time) straight to 3rd without taking out the clutch, but do take out the clutch after sliding out of 3rd. if it doesn't grind its bad synchro's.
Happened to my cobra as well.
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Old 01-22-2014, 01:41 PM   #3
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I don't have much experience with that motor, but usually light smoke could be your vavle guide seals are going bad. Could be a bunch of different things, but that's usually a common issue on older engines.
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Old 01-22-2014, 06:15 PM   #4
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Are guide seals a hard fix?
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Old 01-22-2014, 07:27 PM   #5
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When does it smoke the most? If when on the throttle, it's probably rings, if smoke is worse off throttle, probably valve guide seals. Unfortunately, the valve guide seals usually go out because there's too much play in the guides themselves. Have you done a compression check yet?
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Old 01-22-2014, 10:25 PM   #6
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When does it smoke the most? If when on the throttle, it's probably rings, if smoke is worse off throttle, probably valve guide seals. Unfortunately, the valve guide seals usually go out because there's too much play in the guides themselves. Have you done a compression check yet?

It mainly just puffs out smoke when I crank it, I haven't noticed any while driving. And I haven't done a compression test yet.
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Old 01-22-2014, 10:40 PM   #7
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New car issues

So by crank it do you mean during starting?


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Old 01-22-2014, 10:43 PM   #8
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As soon as it actually cranks it puffs out a good cloud of blueish smoke. Once it sits for a second it stops. Then once I have driven and come to a stop and kill it, there is residual smoke that seeps out for a minute or two. More so than usual anyways. My gt has o/r exhaust and it would smoke a little, but this is different
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Old 01-23-2014, 12:22 AM   #9
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Sounds like valve guide seals


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Old 01-23-2014, 09:13 AM   #10
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The actual process of replacing them isnt bad, its just the process of getting to them that's a pain.
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Old 01-23-2014, 03:09 PM   #11
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As far as the tranny goes try going from all other gears (one at a time) straight to 3rd without taking out the clutch, but do take out the clutch after sliding out of 3rd. if it doesn't grind its bad synchro's.
Happened to my cobra as well.

I think it is a synchro, 2nd to 3rd still won't work, but 4th down to 3rd will.
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Old 01-23-2014, 04:01 PM   #12
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Have you checked your tranny fluid level? It could be over full. Generally a bad synchro will grind real bad while over full tranny fluid can cause gear lockout
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Old 01-23-2014, 04:07 PM   #13
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It does grind really bad, that's why I just skip it
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Old 01-25-2014, 03:08 PM   #14
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Quote:
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I think it is a synchro, 2nd to 3rd still won't work, but 4th down to 3rd will.
Yea most likely, mine does it on reverse and my cousin's does it on 2nd and reverse, I hate it. Another way to tell is if you hold the clutch down for about 10 seconds or maybe a little longer until your synchro's stop spinning and go into 3rd. No grind, bad synchro's.
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Old 01-25-2014, 03:15 PM   #15
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You can try rev matching as well. It should go right into gear without grinding
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Old 01-27-2014, 01:49 PM   #16
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I think it is a synchro, 2nd to 3rd still won't work, but 4th down to 3rd will.
You likely have a T3650 trans since most of the 01s got the 3650 vs the T45. The T3650 prior to the 03 revision had:

-Faulty 1-2 fork
-Faulty 2nd gear synchro hub
-Faulty 2nd gear itself

So basically what I'm telling you is you need a rebuild. Ford did issue TSBs for those transmissions and it is a well documented design flaw. What a rebuilder will (should) do is replace all the stuff I listed with the redesigned pieces. Putting bronze fork pads instead of plastic is a good idea too as the plastic ones do not hold up to hard shifting over time.

As for the blue smoke, that is classic valve stem seals. What is happening is that over the time it sits the oil in the heads leaks through the bad seals winds up on top of the valves or in the chamber if the valves are in the open position. When you fire it up all that oil is burnt up and shot out. Once the car is running the oil can't pool in there anymore and warming up also might make the seals expand enough to seal them but they still need replaced.

You can get a fresh rebuild 3650 on the evilbays right now for around $1050 shipped to your door with no core charge, one of the shops that runs specials every year on ebay has I think 5 of them for sale. They say they have done all the TSBs and honestly I am kicking around grabbing one as a budget fix until I do my Teksid if the deal I found locally for a low mileage T-56 falls through.

Sorry about the trans but I doubt it just started happening, its just a matter of time with most of the early 3650s as to when they will start, my old roomate had one let go at 30k miles for him on his 04 and luckily it was still under warranty in 2006 when it happened.
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Old 01-27-2014, 02:46 PM   #17
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If your tight on money get the tranny replaced. The valve guide seals will hold for awhile. You just might start fouling plugs though. Then again if you have the tranny pulled you are already in there...
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Old 02-06-2014, 06:42 AM   #18
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Good idea for sure is to install an oil separator/filter in line with PCV. It's a "got to have" before and after the smoking issue is resolved. LINK:Mustang Oil Separators: Ford Mustang Performance - Free Shipping!
Get appropriate synthetic fluid inside transmission when the clutch is repaired (Mobil1 ATF). FRPP throw-out & pilot bearings will last duration of clutch.
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Old 02-10-2014, 04:54 PM   #19
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Having a new issue now. Squealing at idle and it gets higher pitch during acceleration. Gets quieter at idle when the clutch is engaged. I'm assuming that would be the TOB?
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Old 02-11-2014, 07:53 AM   #20
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Check your pulleys, and most importantly your belt tensioner. The tensioner tends to get loose after a while, and squealing is a big sign of it. Its only around $40 at ford don't go aftermarket with this one its very important. Easy to replace as well

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Old 02-11-2014, 09:07 AM   #21
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Good idea for sure is to install an oil separator/filter in line with PCV. It's a "got to have" before and after the smoking issue is resolved. LINK:Mustang Oil Separators: Ford Mustang Performance - Free Shipping!
Get appropriate synthetic fluid inside transmission when the clutch is repaired (Mobil1 ATF). FRPP throw-out & pilot bearings will last duration of clutch.
After installing my Oil Seperator, holy moly!!, I'm a firm believer in them. I noticed a layer of black sludge on everything when I did the PI Heads Swap. After only 1500 miles of driving a small amout of yuckie sludge emptied out of the carch can. I put a new PCV valve and replaced my IAC and my Stang idles (and cruises) like it's brand new. Even my plugs feel fresh. That sludge goes thru the whole engine.

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Old 02-11-2014, 09:42 AM   #22
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[QUOTE=94 GT 5.0;1945989]Check your pulleys, and most importantly your belt tensioner. The tensioner tends to get loose after a while, and squealing is a big sign of it. Its only around $40 at ford don't go aftermarket with this one its very important. Easy to replace as well

I hope it is just a belt, but I don't think it is. Pushing the clutch in even at idle affects the sound a lot.
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Old 02-11-2014, 09:51 AM   #23
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[QUOTE=Matticus;1946057]
Quote:
Originally Posted by 94 GT 5.0 View Post
Check your pulleys, and most importantly your belt tensioner. The tensioner tends to get loose after a while, and squealing is a big sign of it. Its only around $40 at ford don't go aftermarket with this one its very important. Easy to replace as well

I hope it is just a belt, but I don't think it is. Pushing the clutch in even at idle affects the sound a lot.
Did you perform the bad pulley test? Remove the serpentine belt and safely run the engine?
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Old 02-14-2014, 06:31 PM   #24
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After installing my Oil Seperator, holy moly!!, I'm a firm believer in them. I noticed a layer of black sludge on everything when I did the PI Heads Swap. After only 1500 miles of driving a small amout of yuckie sludge emptied out of the carch can. I put a new PCV valve and replaced my IAC and my Stang idles (and cruises) like it's brand new. Even my plugs feel fresh. That sludge goes thru the whole engine.

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Good deal. It practically eliminates the need for induction cleaning, it works that well.
If you got the Steeda separator, i have a little trick to draining it quickly. Took me 6 month to figure out & felt like a dumb a$$, but the clear bottom sight glass unscrews, removes, and you pour out the oil, instead of depressing check valve at very bottom. just FYI-
I drain mine every week. The filter is full when it is 1/2" full.
Have fun with the car!
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Old 02-14-2014, 11:35 PM   #25
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No, I didn't. I noticed some squeaking at start up, idle and throttle at times. She was do for a new belt anyway so I went out to buy it. In the process I noticed my idler pulley wobbled a bit even after tightening to torque specs. I stopped by ford and picked one up for like $16. After swapping those I noticed the belt wasn't as stiff as my other mustangs, felt like a dumb a§§ for not checking that in the first place, plus it still squeaked. Went to ford again for a tensioner, swapped em and bam! Engine runs smoother and no more squeaks. Best $47 I've spent in my life.
Since I already replaced those 2 pulleys I went ahead and ordered some steeda underdrives. Another good choice, now she's running better than she did 10 years ago.
But one very important thing is please don't cheap out with important parts like these. It will end up costing you more to fix later on.

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