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Old 11-27-2015, 10:57 PM   #1
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01 Cobra engine build

Alright guys........gotta new job now, gonna be workin a **** of 12hr shifts.....all that bulls%$t info that nobody really cares about to say that my mustang cobra is back on the radar. I've started doin some research on the cobra, just need more specific info it.

Cobra- need ppl or groups for 4-6 4Vs. Need to know as much about them as possible. The weak links, strong points, advice on what to do, where to go, who to speak with in regards to most knowledgeable 4V info, etc. its on the radar, ready to get hungry and push.


Ready to dig in and learn, understand as much as I can possibly can. Lets go.
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Old 12-01-2015, 05:36 PM   #2
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Originally Posted by rinfield2004 View Post
Alright guys........gotta new job now, gonna be workin a **** of 12hr shifts.....all that bulls%$t info that nobody really cares about to say that my mustang cobra is back on the radar. I've started doin some research on the cobra, just need more specific info it.

Cobra- need ppl or groups for 4-6 4Vs. Need to know as much about them as possible. The weak links, strong points, advice on what to do, where to go, who to speak with in regards to most knowledgeable 4V info, etc. its on the radar, ready to get hungry and push.


Ready to dig in and learn, understand as much as I can possibly can. Lets go.
What year cobra are you talking about?

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Old 12-01-2015, 07:09 PM   #3
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What year cobra are you talking about?

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By the title of the thread i would assume an 01
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Old 12-01-2015, 07:49 PM   #4
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Im sorry i wasnt thinking i know there several cooling mods for them i think the driver side head was the most affected by it there kind of famous for spinning rod bearings but turning 7k rpms everytime you drive it will do that...lol 99-01 have the teskid aluminum block overall there really solid cars still learning with mine ive mainly delt with 2v's

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Old 12-01-2015, 07:51 PM   #5
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If you want look up sean hyland...you'll learn ALOT

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Old 12-01-2015, 10:54 PM   #6
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I'll certainly look him up. Just a little insight as to where I'm at. I'm torn as to which direction to go with it. Std bore/stroke + high compression(12-14:1) + top end build? Stroke + top end build? std bore/stroke + M112(which I have on hand, currently collecting parts for). All are lethal avenues, just a matter of pick your poison. Curious if you guys could help me wittle it down to some manageable decisions. Plus, should I keep the IRS and go stg 5 CVs + Kenne brown weight redcution parts? Or, switch to a solid rear end? More importantly, at what point do I need to build my bottom end? Exactly how much power will my stock bottom, take? I look forward to hearing from you guys.
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Old 12-04-2015, 06:29 PM   #7
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The weak point in these motors are the rods. I believe once you hit 450 rwhp you are playing with fire.


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Old 12-04-2015, 06:54 PM   #8
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I'll certainly look him up. Just a little insight as to where I'm at. I'm torn as to which direction to go with it. Std bore/stroke + high compression(12-14:1) + top end build? Stroke + top end build? std bore/stroke + M112(which I have on hand, currently collecting parts for). All are lethal avenues, just a matter of pick your poison. Curious if you guys could help me wittle it down to some manageable decisions. Plus, should I keep the IRS and go stg 5 CVs + Kenne brown weight redcution parts? Or, switch to a solid rear end? More importantly, at what point do I need to build my bottom end? Exactly how much power will my stock bottom, take? I look forward to hearing from you guys.
I suppose that the answer to your question is, what are your ultimate goals for the car? And how much of your overtime are you willing to spend?
Not really an answer... Only more questions. Lol

You've already mentioned the different ways that you can accomplish an engine build, and they each have different merits depending upon what your final goals are.
Do you want to drag race?
Road race?
Have the fastest Mustang in your town?
Weekend driver?
Daily driver?
And the dreaded "B" word... Budget?
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Old 12-04-2015, 07:04 PM   #9
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*Obligatory run the budget plus the cost of the car and if you are near or at $20k sell it and buy a 2011GT statement*

In all seriousness a BUILT motor plus power adder plus suspension plus the cost of the car to do it right with high quality parts is going to run near that. If that is fine then go for it.

01 Cobras were mostly WAP blocks, not Teksid but there were a few leftovers used in 01. It really doesn't matter no matter what the internet says, WAP blocks are super strong. Crank is already forged, people rag on the 99/01 heads but they are real good heads. Transmission in the 01 is the first run 3650 and are known to be real hit or miss. The 01 IRS is weaker than the Termi IRS and will need to be beefed up with a FTBR kit and a few other things or SRA swapped depending on what you want to do. Then there is fuel, power adder, suspension, tune, gauges, misc bolt ons etc...

Done right, the New Edges look sick (very likely the best looking Mustang made IMO) but its not exactly cost effective to build them with the 2011-14 GT out there at the prices they are at. And before I get called a hypocrite when ppl see the car in my sig, my car is an exception to all the things I am saying for a number of reasons most regulars on this forum are aware of.
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Old 12-05-2015, 10:10 PM   #10
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"The weak point in these motors are the rods. I believe once you hit 450 rwhp you are playing with fire."

And thats what I want to avoid. Hence the research and the push to educate myself before any money is spent or any wrenches are turned.

"I suppose that the answer to your question is, what are your ultimate goals for the car? And how much of your overtime are you willing to spend?
Not really an answer... Only more questions. Lol

You've already mentioned the different ways that you can accomplish an engine build, and they each have different merits depending upon what your final goals are.
Do you want to drag race?
Road race?
Have the fastest Mustang in your town?
Weekend driver?
Daily driver?
And the dreaded "B" word... Budget?"

Ultimate goal for the car is balance that fine line between street and strip. Overtime? I'll be working for myself by time I'd like to start, so, I'll have plenty of time. Drag race. Fastest mustang in town? that won't be hard to accomplish, this town I live in is ate up with chevys, and what few ford guys here, both partys don't want to spend ANY money to make'em fast. Oddly enough, this car in question is my daily, so I'll be dailying my racecar til I can get the cobra squared away. ......the never ending vicious cycle of the addiction of hp. buy a car, race car it, buy a daily, modify it, need another daily. 1st world problems. Budget? will be pulling out a signature loan, really don't want to exceed too far beyond $10k. I've already priced out a lot of what I need and have a general figure as to what I might/could expect.
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Old 12-05-2015, 11:11 PM   #11
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$10k is going to be real tight... real tight... I'm not saying it can't be done but you'll have to do EVERYTHING yourself pretty much. Forging and doing the motor right is going to eat up a big chunk of that. Depends what "bolt ons" have been done and what all else needs to get fixed. Like, trans will most likely need to be rebuilt, rearend will have to be gone through, suspension and chassis bracing, fuel system, dyno tune etc...

I'll say again to take a real good hard look at that $10k and what your car is worth and go from there. I guarantee your interest rate on a personal loan is not going to be great, even with good credit. Could you possibly swing a car payment/insurance for a 2011 GT with a nice low APR car loan from a credit union or something?

I'd honestly say you will bust that $10k budget especially if you need a shop to do stuff. But i'm a debbie downer so...
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Old 12-12-2015, 09:23 AM   #12
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Weak points on the 2001 cobra engine ?

I'd say internals are chicken bones , crank is strong , heads don't flow as good as 03-04 heads , manifold could be better like the mach 1s ..

Any other questions on certain parts ?

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Old 12-12-2015, 04:47 PM   #13
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AFIAK, the 99/01 manifolds are the same as the Mach, the Mach is just debadged. If there is a difference it is minimal, just like the heads. The 03-05 revision is obviously better... but not $600-$1k better that ppl ask. You can get a good set of 99/01 Tumble Port cores for $200 and a valve job/refresh (which you'll need regardless) and very minimal exhaust work and they'll flow as good or better than Termi/Mach/Aviator heads.

As far as the weak point, same as the other non-termi 4.6L motors, the rods. Same as the GT rods. Also the coolant issue with the heads but there is no shortage of kits to fix that problem...

TBTH, getting a 96-04 4V... I'd have to say the 01 Cobra is a real REAL underrated car. Has the cool bumper, the unique tail lights, the 1 year seats and a better IRS than the 99. The other one that gets a real bad rap is the automatic Mach. The cast crank thing is a non-issue, the rods will fail long before that crank will. And the auto Mach is a ridiculously good drag car with the upgraded EEC, the high revving 4V, the ability to drop in a nice converter and the SRA. One of my cars "on the list" is a 2004 Competition Orange A4 Mach. One day... they are rare at only 200-something ever made.

Anyway... I'd still pick up a Coyote before doing an all out build on a SN95. I will be about $12k into the car in my sig when all is said and done but spending $8k on a nice car and then another $10-$12k on a buildup... just get a 2011 base model 5.0 and roll.
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Old 12-12-2015, 06:59 PM   #14
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Yes Scott.. the mach 1 actually has a bit of better flow than the previous design. May not be very significant but it's there for sure.
People actually ask around 1500-2500 for the revised heads unless you score them lucky at a junkyard on a different engine (DC)
Only problem with porting those 99/01 heads is the threads still are 4 , which a lot of people have trouble with. ( Blowing spark plugs out )
That's why the 9 thread banks are highly looked out for.

There is a coolant fix .. ( Head cooling mod ) lethal sells their Gen 2 kit for around 150-200 to help coolant flow to the back of the cylinder heads.

The comp. Orange is pretty rare , and amazing color .. crazy that the Oxford white is the rarest lol least produced at least.

Mach 1 would be a great DD car with no worries about the weaker 99/01 IRS and their 28 spline shafts.

Drag car for sure.


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Old 12-12-2015, 08:51 PM   #15
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If someone wants $2500 for a set of revised heads... I hope that is fully rebuilt with receipts and high end parts... jeez... Ppl are smoking crack at that price IMO.

For the 4 thread thing just get any 4 thread cores fully timeserted while they are out if that's a worry. That'll perma fix it.

Good to know about the Mach intake too. And the OW is my other favorite color. I did actually go test drive an 04 auto Mach when I was looking in April/May. Black on black with 144k miles for $8k but it was in damn good shape. No rust at all, everything worked fine, had a stretched throttle cable (pedal in carpet), needed new decals and the leather was kinda hard but no cracks or severe wear oddly enough. Nothing some Meguiar's couldn't have cured. Bone stock car and it was kinda sluggish but that'll happen when its bone stock...

I still think I maybe should have offered $6k cash for that thing sometimes and see if I could get him to meet me at $7k but I know when I get the car in my sig going it'll all be worth it.
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Old 04-14-2016, 04:40 PM   #16
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01 cobra engine build

Whats up guys. a LOT has happened since I last posted. my cobra engine took a **** back in late november. Bellowed white exhaust smoke from one county and back(had an interview). Parked it when I came back home, tried replacing the valve seals, didn't fix it. So, Engines out, and soon to be tore down to bare block. Block and heads will be sent to the machinist to get speced out and measured(make sure everythings still in spec) and get the heads p & p'ed. So, Getting the heads p & p'ed and getting 03/04 cobra rods, would be too much to say I'd be good with those? While its apart, what are some other "cheap" mods/fixes? I'll be upgrading the flywheel to an aluminum one. Biting the bullet and getting some blower ground cams(since I'm there).

My ultimate goal is to supercharge it(already have an M112 from a 03 cobra sitting on my floor in my room). and eventually replace the IRS with a solid rear end. Where else could I drop weight? I've already deleted the front and rear bumper supports, everything in the trunk, what else? Had a tuner who installed my 4R70W auto trans rev limit my engine to 6k, do I need to go somewhere else to get that fixed? or 6k ok? I'll definitely look into that coolant mod soon. What else can I upgrade, delete, mod, etc. whilst its apart that easy, "cheap", doable?

Look forward to hearing what you guys have to share. You guys are a invaluable resource.
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Old 04-14-2016, 07:55 PM   #17
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You want a budget build? Let me tell you a tale...

When I get back to my PC. Also... Save your money on a PP of the heads. Waste. 32v is a LOT of labor to port and not needed. On 99/01 heads if you must get anything done get some short turn work on the exhaust. That's it. Hell I'm going with bone stock B heads and upgraded springs. Oh yeah, get springs. Brian Tooley makes a 95lb set for $250 and they work with stock retainers.

I'll put more info here on my computo

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Old 04-14-2016, 08:40 PM   #18
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Hokai so...

What exactly are you looking for? Cheap build to 700-800hp? Your forged crank, Boss rods, Manley pistons and all the hardware/bearings/rings/etc... to get it all in there. Leave the heads alone or do minimal exhaust work. Its not needed, they already flow a metric assload and have very good velocity although with a M112 on them its not exactly needed. Biggest flow revision on the revised 03-05 heads is the exhaust.

One reason I went 4V myself, headwork is not needed minus a freshening up, cams are free basically vs $1k, metal intake that doesn't cost an arm and a leg and way easier to run high RPM. And I'm going with unported B heads which REALLY do not need any port work.

Your block... it is a Teksid like the 2 I have. It will need:
-Dye check
-Ultrasonic cleaning
-Boring with torque plates
-Decking
-Line hone

Make sure you have a damn good machine shop that knows wtf they are doing with Teksids.

Other "gothcas" on the aluminum blocks:

-Passenger head cam chain tensioner. You need to replace it with the Cobra Engineering tensioner. Ford ****ed up here, the driver's tensioner and the 2 primary tensioners all apply said tension on the slack side of the chain. The passenger head chain applies it on the tension side which can and DOES throw off timing.

Cobra Engineering LLC

-Front dowel pins... Ford used weak studs on the front dowel pins on the aluminum blocks. The iron ones had beefier dowels and while its apart you should upgrade them.

Cobra Engineering LLC

What else...

Obviously the head cooling mod if you have not done it yet is a big one.

Flywheel? 4R70w? You had it auto converted? Autos use flexplates, not flywheels, don't mess with the flexplate... 6K on a Cobra is stupid btw, 4V will happily rev way higher than that, you are missing out there, get a better tuner, slap a big trans cooler on the 4R and hope it holds. If you want a stronger trans, get a 4R75w out of a 2004 GT or Mach, they are good to about 650 stock.

Cams... no, waste of money on a 4V, HUGE waste of money. Get yourself a set of 96-98 Cobra intake cams, advance the intake to 12 degrees which is real straight up (Ford re tards the timing 12 degrees from the factory) and roll. Cams are a non issue on 4V unless you need 4 figure power.

Trying to save you some $$$ here. Lots of stuff you are doing that you don't need and lots of stuff you need that you are not doing. Which is why its good you posted here.
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Old 04-14-2016, 08:50 PM   #19
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Also you live in KY? Any chance you will be heading northeast any time soon? Trade your IRS for a 34k mile SRA with 3.73s straight up? I know its 12 hrs from me to you lol. Did it 2 years ago to Louisville...
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Old 04-14-2016, 08:55 PM   #20
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01 Cobra engine build

Finally someone else that lives here. Or is it the other way around. 😎


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Old 04-14-2016, 09:05 PM   #21
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In KY or the SVT section? lol
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Old 04-14-2016, 09:09 PM   #22
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01 Cobra engine build

I live in Hopkinsville, same as him. Is what I meant. Ironically, I almost bought an 01 Cobra Vert with a blown engine, well needed rebuild.


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Old 04-19-2016, 12:41 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by scottydsntknow View Post
Hokai so...

What exactly are you looking for? Cheap build to 700-800hp? Your forged crank, Boss rods, Manley pistons and all the hardware/bearings/rings/etc... to get it all in there. Leave the heads alone or do minimal exhaust work. Its not needed, they already flow a metric assload and have very good velocity although with a M112 on them its not exactly needed. Biggest flow revision on the revised 03-05 heads is the exhaust.

One reason I went 4V myself, headwork is not needed minus a freshening up, cams are free basically vs $1k, metal intake that doesn't cost an arm and a leg and way easier to run high RPM. And I'm going with unported B heads which REALLY do not need any port work.

Your block... it is a Teksid like the 2 I have. It will need:
-Dye check
-Ultrasonic cleaning
-Boring with torque plates
-Decking
-Line hone

Make sure you have a damn good machine shop that knows wtf they are doing with Teksids.

Other "gothcas" on the aluminum blocks:

-Passenger head cam chain tensioner. You need to replace it with the Cobra Engineering tensioner. Ford ****ed up here, the driver's tensioner and the 2 primary tensioners all apply said tension on the slack side of the chain. The passenger head chain applies it on the tension side which can and DOES throw off timing.

Cobra Engineering LLC

-Front dowel pins... Ford used weak studs on the front dowel pins on the aluminum blocks. The iron ones had beefier dowels and while its apart you should upgrade them.

Cobra Engineering LLC

What else...

Obviously the head cooling mod if you have not done it yet is a big one.

Flywheel? 4R70w? You had it auto converted? Autos use flexplates, not flywheels, don't mess with the flexplate... 6K on a Cobra is stupid btw, 4V will happily rev way higher than that, you are missing out there, get a better tuner, slap a big trans cooler on the 4R and hope it holds. If you want a stronger trans, get a 4R75w out of a 2004 GT or Mach, they are good to about 650 stock.

Cams... no, waste of money on a 4V, HUGE waste of money. Get yourself a set of 96-98 Cobra intake cams, advance the intake to 12 degrees which is real straight up (Ford re tards the timing 12 degrees from the factory) and roll. Cams are a non issue on 4V unless you need 4 figure power.

Trying to save you some $$$ here. Lots of stuff you are doing that you don't need and lots of stuff you need that you are not doing. Which is why its good you posted here.
^^^Very good information here. Definitely saving this page. Did not know about the front dowels.
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Old 04-19-2016, 06:06 PM   #24
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01 Cobra engine build

I can give you the contact info of my shops go to machine shop in our area. They do excellent work and are very reasonable. Wealth of wealth of knowledge; they do things from 50s MG 4 bangers to 600+ cu.in. Big block drag engines. Let me know if you're interested.


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Old 04-19-2016, 06:11 PM   #25
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Will also want to buy the cloyes adjustable cam gears, run arp 2000 studs at 85ft lbs (100 will crack the block) mini Cooper arp cam gear bolts and very important to re torque every single nut on the studs AFTER a 30 min initial idle to temp.

All aluminum means that the block and heads both expand during the first heat up squishing the HG even more. This means the horrific job of pulling the 4v valve covers with the motor in the car and loosen and re torque in sequence to 85. Or you can push out a gasket under boost if you do not do this.

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