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Old 12-15-2015, 04:17 PM   #1
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4v problems?

I bought a mach 1 and the next day the motor started knocking and now im skeptical about getting another one. What are some things i should look out for when i goto look at another one?
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Old 12-15-2015, 05:03 PM   #2
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I guess it may be best for you to have someone you trust inspect the car for you.


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Old 12-15-2015, 05:29 PM   #3
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I guess it may be best for you to have someone you trust inspect the car for you.


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Last time i did that on the mach one shop told me it was a lower end knock and the other told me it was an upper lol
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Old 12-15-2015, 05:37 PM   #4
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Buying a used car is always a gamble especially a high mileage Mustang. If you can get lucky and find one an older person owned that would be best.


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Old 12-15-2015, 07:45 PM   #5
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Last time i did that on the mach one shop told me it was a lower end knock and the other told me it was an upper lol
And you still bought the car lol? Or were the diagnostics done after you bought it?

As said there's a higher risk when buying these cars. Many of them with multiple owners have had a hard life. I agree, look for a 1 or two owner car with low to mid miles, that has bolt ons. Cars with blowers, 2nd engines, different transmissions etc. only elevate the risk unless you do some serious homework on the car, most of which is only successful if the current owner is willing to share that info.

If they have nothing to hide, they should be willing to share any information about any previous work done, and be fine with you taking the car to a shop of your choice to be inspected.
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Old 12-15-2015, 08:04 PM   #6
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And you still bought the car lol? Or were the diagnostics done after you bought it?

As said there's a higher risk when buying these cars. Many of them with multiple owners have had a hard life. I agree, look for a 1 or two owner car with low to mid miles, that has bolt ons. Cars with blowers, 2nd engines, different transmissions etc. only elevate the risk unless you do some serious homework on the car, most of which is only successful if the current owner is willing to share that info.

If they have nothing to hide, they should be willing to share any information about any previous work done, and be fine with you taking the car to a shop of your choice to be inspected.
I bought the car and then the next day it started knocking, the 3 times i went to look at it, it had no problems. So basically i should try and find something stock or lightly modded?
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Old 12-15-2015, 08:43 PM   #7
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I bought the car and then the next day it started knocking, the 3 times i went to look at it, it had no problems. So basically i should try and find something stock or lightly modded?

SOB that sold it to you probably dumped Casite or thicker weight in it to temporarily mask the knock. Nothing fully eliminates a knock until you actually replace rod bearings etc. but it doesn't take much to mask the knock before someone is coming by to look at the car.

As far as searching for another, I would aim for a stock or lightly modded car. My Mach 1 had exhaust, a CAI and a handheld tune when I bought it. Everything else stock. I didn't want a bone stock Mach 1 with low miles as I knew I was going to make it my own and not keep it in stock form, not to mention those cars were overpriced for me.
I also didn't want a heavily modded one as it elevates the risk factor quite a bit.

There really are decent cars out there. Most of the time it takes patience and effort to find them.
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Old 12-15-2015, 08:58 PM   #8
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SOB that sold it to you probably dumped Casite or thicker weight in it to temporarily mask the knock. Nothing fully eliminates a knock until you actually replace rod bearings etc. but it doesn't take much to mask the knock before someone is coming by to look at the car.

As far as searching for another, I would aim for a stock or lightly modded car. My Mach 1 had exhaust, a CAI and a handheld tune when I bought it. Everything else stock. I didn't want a bone stock Mach 1 with low miles as I knew I was going to make it my own and not keep it in stock form, not to mention those cars were overpriced for me.
I also didn't want a heavily modded one as it elevates the risk factor quite a bit.

There really are decent cars out there. Most of the time it takes patience and effort to find them.
Yeah have you heard of any issues that these cars have? The guy who bought my mach said that there was a recall and that they also have a mod that would help the heads last longer.
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Old 12-16-2015, 10:46 AM   #9
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Only real issue with those are the cylinder heads having a ticking issue , no fix for it .. only to buy a updated 9 thread head.

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---------- Post added at 11:46 AM ---------- Previous post was at 11:46 AM ----------

Always buy a close to stock car as possible.

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Old 12-16-2015, 05:14 PM   #10
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Only real issue with those are the cylinder heads having a ticking issue , no fix for it .. only to buy a updated 9 thread head.

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---------- Post added at 11:46 AM ---------- Previous post was at 11:46 AM ----------

Always buy a close to stock car as possible.

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So if the car is ticking does it mean its going to be bad or its normal and will last a while?
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Old 12-18-2015, 01:21 PM   #11
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Video would help

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Old 12-18-2015, 05:16 PM   #12
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Video would help

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Video of what?
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Old 12-19-2015, 11:41 AM   #13
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Just about all of the 03 and most of 04 heads had an inherit tick. I believe there was a recall or TSB back in 03/04 for it but not all of the original owners may have had it looked at.

Over the years a lot of Mach/Cobra owners claim that the head tick led to bad rod bearings. Some even had engines let out at 20k miles, though to me that sounds more like a defunct engine from the factory.

I looked at quite a few n/a cobras and mach 1's when I was looking for mine and there were a few that had the tick. And yes, there was an 01 that had it too.
Do some research on SVTP and M1R and you'll learn a lot about the tick.
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Old 12-19-2015, 01:54 PM   #14
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Just about all of the 03 and most of 04 heads had an inherit tick. I believe there was a recall or TSB back in 03/04 for it but not all of the original owners may have had it looked at.

Over the years a lot of Mach/Cobra owners claim that the head tick led to bad rod bearings. Some even had engines let out at 20k miles, though to me that sounds more like a defunct engine from the factory.

I looked at quite a few n/a cobras and mach 1's when I was looking for mine and there were a few that had the tick. And yes, there was an 01 that had it too.
Do some research on SVTP and M1R and you'll learn a lot about the tick.
I just wanna know if its safe to buy one with it ticking
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Old 12-19-2015, 02:17 PM   #15
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I just wanna know if its safe to buy one with it ticking
I would say yes. Again, It was more common in the 03's than the 04's, but even so very few if any engines blew solely because of the head tick. Also, the actual defective tick is very noticeable. I think people may confuse it with injector noise, these engines are known to be noisy.

Again, do some research on the problem, 90% of the discussions conclude that the head tick is annoying at best.
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Old 12-19-2015, 02:23 PM   #16
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I would say yes. Again, I was more common in the 03's than the 04's, but even so very few if any engines blew solely because of the head tick.

Again, do some research on the problem, 90% of the discussions conclude that the head tick is annoying at best.
Ok thats good, so is that the only thing with the 4vs that had any issues?
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Old 12-19-2015, 02:54 PM   #17
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Inherently, that head tick was probably the worst thing. Overall they are solid engines. The biggest problem is like with any used performance car, how well it was taken care of.

Proper and adequate oiling is critical to prevent insufficient oil pressure leading to primary chain tensioner slap. The Mach 1 4v's don't like it when you deviate from 5w-20.

Throwout bearing tends to take a dump but that's with any 3650, wear is accelerated based on use and abuse.
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Old 12-19-2015, 03:01 PM   #18
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Inherently, that head tick was probably the worst thing. Overall they are solid engines. The biggest problem is like with any used performance car, how well it was taken care of.

Proper and adequate oiling is critical to prevent insufficient oil pressure leading to primary chain tensioner slap. The Mach 1 4v's don't like it when you deviate from 5w-20.

Throwout bearing tends to take a dump but that's with any 3650, wear is accelerated based on use and abuse.
So basically the best thing would be a close to stock original motor and trans mach that has changed oil properly with 5w20?
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Old 12-19-2015, 08:53 PM   #19
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So basically the best thing would be a close to stock original motor and trans mach that has changed oil properly with 5w20?
And, Ideally, only driven by a little old lady to go to church on Sunday.
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