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Old 09-14-2016, 08:33 PM   #1
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Cobra 480hp!! Price ?

I got a freinds freind selling his standard 99 cobra, it has 80k miles, with a turbocharge.Leather seats& manual transmission.Click image for larger version

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ID:	205082He claims its pushing 480hp and doing high 12s (1/4mile) at 128mph. I'll like to know what yall think about it and whats its worth.


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Old 09-14-2016, 08:44 PM   #2
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It looks like it needs a paint job.
How much is he asking for it?
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Old 09-14-2016, 11:21 PM   #3
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Definitely needs a paint job. The car's paint has been neglected, but not everyone understands how to care for a vehicle's finish.

I like the Cobra R hood, but modifications rarely boost the value of a car.

That Cobra would sell for about $7500-$8500 in my area. Even then, the car would be picked apart. From what I can see I would offer a max of $6000.

It needs a paint job, which will cost $3000 minimum for average work. It likely needs tires, so you have another $1000 to add to the cost. It may need brakes or other small mechanical issues resolved.

The car could sell for $9000 to the right person just as it sits. A 99 Cobra is becoming rare. If I was shopping for an early Cobra I would personally want one that is untouched mechanically and asthetically.

With the right tune, supercharger set up, exhaust, etc it is possible that the car is coming close to 500hp. I would be nervous putting a 16 year old engine on the dyno though.

The 1/4 mile time seems legitimate. With the right gears, suspension, tires, conditions, and driver a car with less power can lay down that same time.
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Old 09-15-2016, 11:25 AM   #4
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I'd ask for documentation on that turbo. Who installed it, is it tuned properly, etc. Oh, and sellers can always "claim" whatever they want. If there is no documentation to back it up, consider it to be not true.
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Old 09-15-2016, 11:33 AM   #5
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Cobra 480hp!! Price ?

I see a supercharger. But it looks rough. Personally I'd pass. Better Cobra's out there, and in much better shape.


Pick your poison.
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Old 09-15-2016, 12:50 PM   #6
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I just had my 1989 mustang gt repainted. It cost me $6000.00 + paint. the car has no rust, dents or body damage and only 77,000 on odometer . never seen snow or rain so $3000.
seams cheap for a paint job
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Old 09-15-2016, 02:53 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Recon View Post
I see a supercharger. But it looks rough. Personally I'd pass. Better Cobra's out there, and in much better shape.


Pick your poison.
Yea, I saw SC, but OP said turbo. Either way, I'd still want documentation to make sure it's not some cheap ebay kit.
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Old 09-15-2016, 03:00 PM   #8
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Originally Posted by stang347 View Post
I just had my 1989 mustang gt repainted. It cost me $6000.00 + paint. the car has no rust, dents or body damage and only 77,000 on odometer . never seen snow or rain so $3000.
seams cheap for a paint job
I was giving the low end of the spectrum. A quality paint job is expensive.
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Old 09-15-2016, 03:10 PM   #9
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your right about that. paint job are expensive for quality paint job, but I have seen expensive paint jobs that look like some one painted it with a mop and bucket
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Old 09-15-2016, 06:47 PM   #10
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Originally Posted by stang347 View Post
your right about that. paint job are expensive for quality paint job, but I have seen expensive paint jobs that look like some one painted it with a mop and bucket
...and those are the ones that are repainted, or a legal case is filed so you can keep your hard earned money and have someone that knows what they are doing strip and repaint.
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Old 09-16-2016, 12:55 AM   #11
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The guy is asking 7,500$. what do yall guys think?


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Old 09-16-2016, 01:35 AM   #12
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Originally Posted by Cobra_Whines555 View Post
The guy is asking 7,500$. what do yall guys think?


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This is a check list I kept while looking for my GT. Buying any preowned muscle or sports car concerns me. There is no possible way to know for certain what kind of abuse the car has been through. The last thing you want to do is buy someone else's problem.

Does the car have a clean and clear title? No salvage titles, leins, etc. Does the owner have the title in hand to transfer immediately to you?

How many owners has the car had?

How has the car been stored (garaged or outdoors)?

Has the vehicle been properly cared for in consideration of the climate the car is located in. For example; snow and salt, a rainy and humid area, coastal, etc. The cleaning procedures and frequency vary in every situation.

How does the car run?

Does the current owner have maintenance records?

Have you run a CarFax report?

Are there any oil, trans, or accessory fluid leaks?

Check all fluids, and makes sure to carefully inspect the color of each. Also look for debris.

While the engine is running can you smell anything unusual? Do not be afraid to smell the exhaust once the engine is warm. If you smell coolant or oil there is a problem, even without smoke.

Have someone rev the engine slightly and watch for any smoke. If there is smoke the color will tell you if it is coolant, oil, or a bad air/fuel mixture.

Can you hear any unusual tapping, grinding, or roaring noises while driving?

Is the car aligned, and is the suspension up to par and safe?

Does the steering wheel have any play in it? It should be solid.

What kind of condition are the tires in?

When were the brakes last changed?

How old is the battery?

Is the interior in good shape (after 16 years there will be some wear and broken parts - beware).

Does the HVAC control and fan work as they should? Do the vent selectors do their job?

Does the A/C work and blow ice cold? does the heater work?

What modifications have been made, and what damage is there due to possible bad installations?

Can you take the car to a mechanic, or get the car on ramps and jack stands to check for play and travel in the driveshaft and other driveline parts?

While under the car, look closely at the rear wheel wells to see whether or not rubber is collected. This is a sign of excessive burn outs.

While driving the car, slam on the brakes and make sure the anti lock system works. You will feel the brake pedal pulse. There should be very little, or no skidding.

I already know the paint needs work, but is the vehicle free of dents?

I know this is a long list. It is easy to get wrapped up and excited over a car we like. You have to always be prepared to walk away though.

Right now the seller is asking $7500. How much will the taxes, title, and tag fees be in your State and county? That will bump,your price up, so take it into consideration.

If everything checks out, test the waters and offer $5800 cash. If the owner jumps on that number you might want to be cautious. Something could be wrong (then again the owner may need to sell the car). $7500 is not a bad price, but I personally would not buy it for that. My top dollar for the car in great condition would be about $6500.
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Old 09-16-2016, 02:24 AM   #13
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Its a nice car with relatively low miles, but I hate peanut interior. The power is way too low, the chin spoiler is a mess and it needs paint. I agree wit REVV^^^ in the last post to check and verify everything before purchasing a modded vehicle.
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Old 09-16-2016, 05:17 AM   #14
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That car needs a lot of tlc, if you love it I'd hit him at $5500 and target buying at no more than $6000. It's in ok shape at best.
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Old 09-16-2016, 05:47 AM   #15
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I know it's petty, but I would have picked up on these couple things and passed up on this car. 1. Ricer mesh in gille (notice it's wavy too, shoddy job) 2. Painted Mustang logo (not necessarily bad on its own, but combined with the other problems it's a red flag for me) 3. Peeling clear coat.

These things tell me a lot about the owner, and the likely poor maintenance and probably shady work. Again I know this stuff sounds petty, but my gut is usually right. Too many red flags for me, and that's really not something you want when picking up am aftermarket FI vehicle. I personally wouldn't go anywhere near this car unless I was getting into it expecting it to be a big project car and money wasn't an issue.

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Old 09-16-2016, 06:43 AM   #16
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Originally Posted by Project Pony View Post
I know it's petty, but I would have picked up on these couple things and passed up on this car. 1. Ricer mesh in gille (notice it's wavy too, shoddy job) 2. Painted Mustang logo (not necessarily bad on its own, but combined with the other problems it's a red flag for me) 3. Peeling clear coat.

These things tell me a lot about the owner, and the likely poor maintenance and probably shady work. Again I know this stuff sounds petty, but my gut is usually right. Too many red flags for me, and that's really not something you want when picking up am aftermarket FI vehicle. I personally wouldn't go anywhere near this car unless I was getting into it expecting it to be a big project car and money wasn't an issue.

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All good points.
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Old 09-16-2016, 01:03 PM   #17
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Great checklist!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Revvv View Post
This is a check list I kept while looking for my GT. Buying any preowned muscle or sports car concerns me. There is no possible way to know for certain what kind of abuse the car has been through. The last thing you want to do is buy someone else's problem.

Does the car have a clean and clear title? No salvage titles, leins, etc. Does the owner have the title in hand to transfer immediately to you?

How many owners has the car had?

How has the car been stored (garaged or outdoors)?

Has the vehicle been properly cared for in consideration of the climate the car is located in. For example; snow and salt, a rainy and humid area, coastal, etc. The cleaning procedures and frequency vary in every situation.

How does the car run?

Does the current owner have maintenance records?

Have you run a CarFax report?

Are there any oil, trans, or accessory fluid leaks?

Check all fluids, and makes sure to carefully inspect the color of each. Also look for debris.

While the engine is running can you smell anything unusual? Do not be afraid to smell the exhaust once the engine is warm. If you smell coolant or oil there is a problem, even without smoke.

Have someone rev the engine slightly and watch for any smoke. If there is smoke the color will tell you if it is coolant, oil, or a bad air/fuel mixture.

Can you hear any unusual tapping, grinding, or roaring noises while driving?

Is the car aligned, and is the suspension up to par and safe?

Does the steering wheel have any play in it? It should be solid.

What kind of condition are the tires in?

When were the brakes last changed?

How old is the battery?

Is the interior in good shape (after 16 years there will be some wear and broken parts - beware).

Does the HVAC control and fan work as they should? Do the vent selectors do their job?

Does the A/C work and blow ice cold? does the heater work?

What modifications have been made, and what damage is there due to possible bad installations?

Can you take the car to a mechanic, or get the car on ramps and jack stands to check for play and travel in the driveshaft and other driveline parts?

While under the car, look closely at the rear wheel wells to see whether or not rubber is collected. This is a sign of excessive burn outs.

While driving the car, slam on the brakes and make sure the anti lock system works. You will feel the brake pedal pulse. There should be very little, or no skidding.

I already know the paint needs work, but is the vehicle free of dents?

I know this is a long list. It is easy to get wrapped up and excited over a car we like. You have to always be prepared to walk away though.

Right now the seller is asking $7500. How much will the taxes, title, and tag fees be in your State and county? That will bump,your price up, so take it into consideration.

If everything checks out, test the waters and offer $5800 cash. If the owner jumps on that number you might want to be cautious. Something could be wrong (then again the owner may need to sell the car). $7500 is not a bad price, but I personally would not buy it for that. My top dollar for the car in great condition would be about $6500.
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Old 09-16-2016, 02:07 PM   #18
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Two other things to add to the checklist:

Pull the dipstick and check the oil.

1. Is it full?

2. What color is the oil? It should be no more than medium chocolate brown if the car has been taken care of internally --- and given the paint on this thing, I seriously doubt regular oil changes. I would expect the oil to be black enough to not be able to see through it....true?

3. Take a little of the oil off the dipstick, rub it between your fingers, and then smell the oil. Do you smell gasoline or antifreeze? Does the oil have ANY gritty feeling to it?

Take your finger and run it around the inside of the end of the exhaust pipes.

1. What color is the residue there?

2. Does it feel oily or sticky?

3. Black residue here MAY be OK if that's all it is -- but not if it feels oily or gritty.
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