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Old 11-21-2013, 11:54 AM   #1
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Tired of the scratches

So I've had my '04 GT for just about a year now (on the 24th wahoo!) and my meh attitude about these scratches has been slowly evolving. Used to itch the back of my brain, and since im now in month SIX of being unemployed I figure now is the time, seeing as how I have plenty of that. Going bat***** crazy here some days....

Anyways, these scratches are deep, can easily be felt by the palm of your hand, and I want to finally repair them. My color code is G2 (Redfire Metallic), my financial resources are somewhat limited (I figure on a total budget of parts/materials at under $1k), and some areas simply cannot be repaired.

Physically damaged parts are: Front fascia, both L&R rockers, both L&R side scoops; Those little corner molding pieces between front fenders and the rockers are super fubar. When last I looked, the replacement rockers and corners would be about $250, scoops another deuce, then paint & prep materials. Since surviving another Texas summer, I've also recently noticed the clear coat is peeling on the front/rear bumpers. Rear is otherwise undamaged so no need for replacing that part, the front and sides seem to be lost though. Hopefully in the last 362 days, prices haven't shot thru the roof lol.

Please chime in with your advice, up to and including me sanding down the entire car then haul it to (shudder, MAACO) for primer/paint. Any techniques or tips would be helpful too. I currently do not own a paint gun, nor an air compressor, but Harbor Freight is a stone's throw away...

Thanks everyone
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Old 11-21-2013, 12:14 PM   #2
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So I've had my '04 GT for just about a year now (on the 24th wahoo!) and my meh attitude about these scratches has been slowly evolving. Used to itch the back of my brain, and since im now in month SIX of being unemployed I figure now is the time, seeing as how I have plenty of that. Going bat***** crazy here some days....

Anyways, these scratches are deep, can easily be felt by the palm of your hand, and I want to finally repair them. My color code is G2 (Redfire Metallic), my financial resources are somewhat limited (I figure on a total budget of parts/materials at under $1k), and some areas simply cannot be repaired.

Physically damaged parts are: Front fascia, both L&R rockers, both L&R side scoops; Those little corner molding pieces between front fenders and the rockers are super fubar. When last I looked, the replacement rockers and corners would be about $250, scoops another deuce, then paint & prep materials. Since surviving another Texas summer, I've also recently noticed the clear coat is peeling on the front/rear bumpers. Rear is otherwise undamaged so no need for replacing that part, the front and sides seem to be lost though. Hopefully in the last 362 days, prices haven't shot thru the roof lol.

Please chime in with your advice, up to and including me sanding down the entire car then haul it to (shudder, MAACO) for primer/paint. Any techniques or tips would be helpful too. I currently do not own a paint gun, nor an air compressor, but Harbor Freight is a stone's throw away...

Thanks everyone
dang!!!did it get sucked up in a tornado? lol pets? that's crazy!!
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Old 11-21-2013, 12:26 PM   #3
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dang!!!did it get sucked up in a tornado? lol pets? that's crazy!!
Hahaha tornado! Nah I figure it was a dog, or kennel. I'm owner #5 so who knows lol. I've always said the scratches don't affect speed, but it's gnawing on my soul to get em fixed
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Old 11-21-2013, 12:40 PM   #4
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Wow I'm no expert on body repair (far from it) but there is scratches all over the place. I'd be tempted to see how much to get it fully repainted.
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Old 11-21-2013, 01:07 PM   #5
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Wow I'm no expert on body repair (far from it) but there is scratches all over the place. I'd be tempted to see how much to get it fully repainted.
I appreciate it man, i've considered the same thing and done some research into it, hence the thoughts about sanding all the way down.

I see over and over again, comments to the gist of "90% of the paint job is in the prep work", and donning my Spock ears I can tell you that it has always been easier to destroy than to create

If i do go the full repaint route, I am more than happy to do all the prep, should save a S-ton of cash with having anybody else do it. Cost of repaint then should be $1500 tops for a nice primed/base/clear job i should think.
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Old 11-21-2013, 02:45 PM   #6
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I appreciate it man, i've considered the same thing and done some research into it, hence the thoughts about sanding all the way down.

I see over and over again, comments to the gist of "90% of the paint job is in the prep work", and donning my Spock ears I can tell you that it has always been easier to destroy than to create

If i do go the full repaint route, I am more than happy to do all the prep, should save a S-ton of cash with having anybody else do it. Cost of repaint then should be $1500 tops for a nice primed/base/clear job i should think.
That doesn't need even remotely close to a repaint. All of those places can be repaired and blended into the existing paint. The $$$ will be in the labor. Take the car in pieces and get them repainted. Start with the bumpers. Then move to the doors. Do it over a few months time and you won't realize how much you have spent also. Just a tip.

Also, ditch the side scoops or just buy new ones from AM with the forum discount. That will save you money because little plastics like that are easier to replace than repaint unless you do it yourself.

This coming from someone with 5yrs of verifiable body shop experience before I became a diesel technician
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Old 11-21-2013, 02:49 PM   #7
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Honestly some times bad paint correction looks worse than scratches. I would just wait and get your car repainted, that's really bad
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Old 11-21-2013, 03:15 PM   #8
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Yeah those scratches are gnarly. You could always plastidip your car until you get a new job for a couple hundred dollars.

Personally given your situation I wouldn't do anything beyond that until you have a steady flow of cash coming in. It's a cheaper option that will still protect your car for a long while until you're ready to fix those areas professionally.
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Old 11-21-2013, 08:09 PM   #9
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That doesn't need even remotely close to a repaint. All of those places can be repaired and blended into the existing paint. The $$$ will be in the labor. Take the car in pieces and get them repainted. Start with the bumpers. Then move to the doors. Do it over a few months time and you won't realize how much you have spent also. Just a tip.

Also, ditch the side scoops or just buy new ones from AM with the forum discount. That will save you money because little plastics like that are easier to replace than repaint unless you do it yourself.

This coming from someone with 5yrs of verifiable body shop experience before I became a diesel technician
Speaking as an absolute amateur on this, I had it in my head that i could spend a few days removing all the paint & etc, replace the needed parts (front bumper, side scoops and rockers) remove the front/fog/rear lights, remove the badges, wing, and hood scoop, then tow it up to whomever and have them tape it up then primer/paint/clear it. I suppose i was a bit unclear with that $1500, i figure that alone would be for what the paint guys do. I haven't done any calling or estimating on that part, suppose i should so it's not too much sticker shock lol.
Thank you very much for the response, and the great idea too about doing it in pieces to break up the overall cost

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Honestly some times bad paint correction looks worse than scratches. I would just wait and get your car repainted, that's really bad
Sure as hell looks bad in person too! Im truly hoping I can get it 'patched' with a scratch repair kit (3M, etc...) but over the past few months i was looking at some of those options, the less likely it seemed they would be able to even satisfactorily take care of all the scratches. What makes it all much worse is the density, yeah plus the sheer amount of them too haha.
Im not opposed to the repainting idea, and since im not doing a color change i still think i can get this thing done for a reasonable cost, since I alone am the biggest cost of labor.
Thanks Soccerluvr, input muchly appreciated

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Yeah those scratches are gnarly. You could always plastidip your car until you get a new job for a couple hundred dollars.

Personally given your situation I wouldn't do anything beyond that until you have a steady flow of cash coming in. It's a cheaper option that will still protect your car for a long while until you're ready to fix those areas professionally.
Nah, I think I'm turned off on the whole plasti dip idea in its entirety. I know plenty do their rims or rear decklid, and that's fine for them. Not knocking it at all, i just dont see me doing it lol. Maybe I haven't seen it in person to have a better opinion within context...
Either way, it literally has been a year for Owner #5 and there's (knock on wood!) no rusting at all, so a few more months wont hurt any. Maybe get one of those kits after all to do nothing more than fill in the scratches so they wont develop any rust or other issues.
Appreciate your input STv6, thank you
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Old 11-21-2013, 09:30 PM   #10
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That doesn't need even remotely close to a repaint. All of those places can be repaired and blended into the existing paint. The $$$ will be in the labor. Take the car in pieces and get them repainted. Start with the bumpers. Then move to the doors. Do it over a few months time and you won't realize how much you have spent also. Just a tip. Also, ditch the side scoops or just buy new ones from AM with the forum discount. That will save you money because little plastics like that are easier to replace than repaint unless you do it yourself. This coming from someone with 5yrs of verifiable body shop experience before I became a diesel technician
I was just going to say the same thing. Make sure you get it done right tho. Macco is crap. I would spend more and get a quality paint job that's done right, rather than have to repaint it again an year or 2 later because the paint is pealing and chipping.
When I got my mustang I bought it as a salvaged car. We were able to fix most of the dents and had to replace a few things. But we repainted the whole car with way higher quality paint and clear than and normal car. It was definitely worth it.
Here's some before and afters.

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Source: My dad has owned a professional auto body and glass shop for 20+ years.
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Old 11-21-2013, 09:35 PM   #11
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I was just going to say the same thing. Make sure you get it done right tho. Macco is crap. I would spend more and get a quality paint job that's done right, rather than have to repaint it again an year or 2 later because the paint is pealing and chipping. When I got my mustang I bought it as a salvaged car. We were able to fix most of the dents and had to replace a few things. But we repainted the whole car with way higher quality paint and clear than and normal car. It was definitely worth it. Here's some before and afters. Source: My dad has owned a professional auto body and glass shop for 20+ years.
*than any normal car.
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Old 11-21-2013, 10:31 PM   #12
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Definitely not going to skimp on the paint. If it's worth doing, it's worth doing right. The first time. If my $1500 estimate aint gonna cut it, in for a penny in for a pound then lol

Yours looks very well done, may I ask how much it was for the paint redo? I get that you had some sort of family discount lol, just curious
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Old 11-22-2013, 12:33 PM   #13
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Definitely not going to skimp on the paint. If it's worth doing, it's worth doing right. The first time. If my $1500 estimate aint gonna cut it, in for a penny in for a pound then lol

Yours looks very well done, may I ask how much it was for the paint redo? I get that you had some sort of family discount lol, just curious
If you do the work yourself it just costs paint and supplies. Paint tends to fluctuate in price and unfortunately for you reds are the most expensive. Also, body work and paint are both an art form in them self. It takes years of practice and hands on to great at either one. Having said that, id be looking for a shop who is going to take the same pride in the job that I would. You can get a decent paint job done cheap if you do all the R&R first. Removing lights, bumpers, mirrors, spoilers, badges, trim, moldings, reflectors, and etc. They are going to look for there being the least amount of work possible before paint so that way they can just maybe do a little body work and paint it quick.
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Old 11-22-2013, 07:54 PM   #14
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If you do the work yourself it just costs paint and supplies. Paint tends to fluctuate in price and unfortunately for you reds are the most expensive. Also, body work and paint are both an art form in them self. It takes years of practice and hands on to great at either one. Having said that, id be looking for a shop who is going to take the same pride in the job that I would. You can get a decent paint job done cheap if you do all the R&R first. Removing lights, bumpers, mirrors, spoilers, badges, trim, moldings, reflectors, and etc. They are going to look for there being the least amount of work possible before paint so that way they can just maybe do a little body work and paint it quick.
Thanks ZL thats exactly what i had in mind, in case I did have to repaint the entire thing. A few months back I pulled all the scoop inserts, cleaned and repainted etc, and when the hood scoop was pulled I could see how pristine and unfaded the original redfire looked. I'd really love to see her shine like that again.

Weather turned to absolute ***** today, colder than a witch's tit, so Mon/Tues i'll swing by a few paint shops and get some estimates to give me a better idea on cost. Hopefully by spring I'll be working and can pull the trigger.
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Old 11-22-2013, 10:42 PM   #15
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Definitely not going to skimp on the paint. If it's worth doing, it's worth doing right. The first time. If my $1500 estimate aint gonna cut it, in for a penny in for a pound then lol Yours looks very well done, may I ask how much it was for the paint redo? I get that you had some sort of family discount lol, just curious
If I remember right I think we had about 1500 into it for paint and materials. But that was for some of the highest quality paint and supplies that we could get. (We weren't keeping track of labor) you probably could have done it for quite abut cheaper than that.
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Old 11-23-2013, 05:16 AM   #16
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And just letting you know.. Unless you have more experience than you're letting on; the shop will still have to do body work for you to get rid of those scratches correctly. It's gonna take a bit of work for that.

However normal sanding is easy and anyone with attention to detail and patience can do it. Just get rid of all the shiny spots on the paint(which is the clear coat). And then sand texture out of base coat with a higher grit paper. Be careful about using blocks though. You don't want to sand unevenly or create grooves by hand because that will show up in final paint for sure. But just using a machine sander can create valleys in the paint because it sands so quickly. And each time you change sandpaper grits it's recommended to sand in the opposite direction you were before. Like with 600 we sanded up and down at a slant to the right. On 800 we sanded up and down on a slant to the left. Just helps you kinda keep it even. Grooves are the enemy here.

What we did for my paint job(you can see our whole process pretty much in my rebuild thread in my signature) was go 400(for clear) then 600 and finally 800 for original paint. Then we put a guide coat on and went 600 and 800 again to make sure we got all the texture. Then we went a little crazy and did a pretty high quality black spray and sanded that down with 600, 800, then 1000(machine) again before finally putting on coats of our final color black with red pearl then we sanded with 1500 and 3000(because we sprayed color and clear in our garage the whole time and had contaminants in the paint as we expected) and then went over with a machine rotating 5000 pad. Then a three stage buff and polish. Honestly we still have work to do on paint and body after my car's engine gets finished. All sanding except machine noted was done by hand and extremely carefully to apply even pressure. My dad could do it no problem because of his 25+years paint and body experience but he supervised me doing it and it took me much much longer than him. But I did it. And anyone can.

Another big thing to look out for is getting all the clear off of edges and under trim that you haven't taken off. That's a spot a lot of people miss and will start peeling up if painted over.

Good luck with your repaint!

And whoever said the quote about preparations being all the work was completely right. Sanding and body work can make and break a smooth, deep, mirror finish paint job.


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Old 12-03-2013, 07:48 PM   #17
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Cole (and everybody else), thanks for the knowledgeable response. Apologies for not updating this thread in a while, weather and laziness crept in (oops), but I did get the ball rolling with my first of many estimates from local establishments.

Only had time today for one, Service King Collision Repair Center. They're literally right up the street so stopping there first seemed right. Just got his email estimate, and holy effing sheet there ain't no way lmfao!

Backdrop: according to him/them, I cannot provide ANY type of parts or materials, as their 'lifetime warranty' requires they do every single part replacement or prepatory work or anything related to the repair process. Yeah ok, whatevs man.

Anywho...the 'estimate':
Paint labor: 40hrs @ $44/hr
Body labor: 123hrs @ $44/hr <----this one especially tickled me
Paint supplies: 40hrs @ $32/hr (odd that supplies are hourly...)
Parts/Misc: $650

Total? How does 9 fcuking grand grab ya? HAHAHAHAHA yeah right I was born yestermadayz

So I sorta knew this all going into this, was funny getting this, but it also kinda reinforced what I was thinking about all the labor/prep work. Seems that the paint process itself is under $1300 at least according to them. Hoping I can muster the chutzpah and do all the prep myself. The estimate dude seems to think that the front bumper and side rockers can be salvaged. I guess by shaving the bits down? I dunno.

Oh and btw Cole, I hope I'm not misrepresenting myself. I have zero body/paint experience, and a smidge more auto/mechanical expertise lol. Always willing to learn is my motto

Anyways, thanks for all the input, gonna get a few more estimates for the overall and paint only jobbies. I'm hopeful for a new job here in a few weeks that should put me on a better financial path. Soon thereafter I'll be looking at doing the work, fingers crossed.

-Doof
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Old 12-03-2013, 07:51 PM   #18
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Cole (and everybody else), thanks for the knowledgeable response. Apologies for not updating this thread in a while, weather and laziness crept in (oops), but I did get the ball rolling with my first of many estimates from local establishments. Only had time today for one, Service King Collision Repair Center. They're literally right up the street so stopping there first seemed right. Just got his email estimate, and holy effing sheet there ain't no way lmfao! Backdrop: according to him/them, I cannot provide ANY type of parts or materials, as their 'lifetime warranty' requires they do every single part replacement or prepatory work or anything related to the repair process. Yeah ok, whatevs man. Anywho...the 'estimate': Paint labor: 40hrs @ $44/hr Body labor: 123hrs @ $44/hr <----this one especially tickled me Paint supplies: 40hrs @ $32/hr (odd that supplies are hourly...) Parts/Misc: $650 Total? How does 9 fcuking grand grab ya? HAHAHAHAHA yeah right I was born yestermadayz So I sorta knew this all going into this, was funny getting this, but it also kinda reinforced what I was thinking about all the labor/prep work. Seems that the paint process itself is under $1300 at least according to them. Hoping I can muster the chutzpah and do all the prep myself. The estimate dude seems to think that the front bumper and side rockers can be salvaged. I guess by shaving the bits down? I dunno. Oh and btw Cole, I hope I'm not misrepresenting myself. I have zero body/paint experience, and a smidge more auto/mechanical expertise lol. Always willing to learn is my motto Anyways, thanks for all the input, gonna get a few more estimates for the overall and paint only jobbies. I'm hopeful for a new job here in a few weeks that should put me on a better financial path. Soon thereafter I'll be looking at doing the work, fingers crossed. -Doof
WTF, where did they those numbers from?? Geez, definitely don't go there
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Old 12-03-2013, 08:05 PM   #19
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HAHA i know right? Gave me a good laugh too. I especially enjoyed the "thou shalt not bring thine own parts" bit. Dude even said that they'd only repaint it factory, was hoping to have the wing and top done in black, alas not so much.

There's plenty of places within 5-10 miles so I ain't worried much
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Old 12-03-2013, 10:28 PM   #20
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Paints definitely not cheap, my buddy was in a similar situation not long ago. He had all the body work done also a coat of primer. Lights out all badges off bumpers off skirts mirrors everything. All they did was shoot anither coat of primer and painted it then buffed it out. And he said he spent a little over 2 grand
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Old 12-06-2013, 12:02 PM   #21
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Paints definitely not cheap, my buddy was in a similar situation not long ago. He had all the body work done also a coat of primer. Lights out all badges off bumpers off skirts mirrors everything. All they did was shoot anither coat of primer and painted it then buffed it out. And he said he spent a little over 2 grand
I decided that paint is for suckas, so i had it ice-dipped. Can hardly see the scratches anymore, plus it provides a great scratch-resistant barrier, for your protection
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Old 12-06-2013, 12:33 PM   #22
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I decided that paint is for suckas, so i had it ice-dipped. Can hardly see the scratches anymore, plus it provides a great scratch-resistant barrier, for your protection
bahahahahah sign me up!!!
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Old 12-06-2013, 01:22 PM   #23
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I decided that paint is for suckas, so i had it ice-dipped. Can hardly see the scratches anymore, plus it provides a great scratch-resistant barrier, for your protection
Hahaha that's great lol. Thats exactly what my car looks like. Half inch of ice then 5 or 6 inches of snow on top of that.
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Old 12-06-2013, 01:34 PM   #24
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Hahaha that's great lol. Thats exactly what my car looks like. Half inch of ice then 5 or 6 inches of snow on top of that.
lol similar here. Looks like snow, in reality is about 3 inches of frozen-together freezing rain. My 220-ish pounds went walking and hardly left any impression.
Where you at in this blizzard? I'm in north texas/dfw area.
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Old 12-06-2013, 01:59 PM   #25
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lol similar here. Looks like snow, in reality is about 3 inches of frozen-together freezing rain. My 220-ish pounds went walking and hardly left any impression.
Where you at in this blizzard? I'm in north texas/dfw area.
I'm in south central missouri right on the arkansas line. I was also able to walk on this junk without leaving an impression last night but its turned into snowfall since. I'd say there's a good 7 or 8 inches right now and its gonna be in the 20's all of next week :/
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Old 12-06-2013, 10:54 PM   #26
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I'm in south central missouri right on the arkansas line. I was also able to walk on this junk without leaving an impression last night but its turned into snowfall since. I'd say there's a good 7 or 8 inches right now and its gonna be in the 20's all of next week :/
Damn hoss, thats a bit worse than us here, at least according to the weather liars. Supposed to get more some time late saturday, then get above freezing monday ish.

Time to get caught up on all that dvr stuff lol
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Old 12-07-2013, 01:09 AM   #27
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Damn hoss, thats a bit worse than us here, at least according to the weather liars. Supposed to get more some time late saturday, then get above freezing monday ish. Time to get caught up on all that dvr stuff lol
Here's my weather. Lol the stang is put away for the winter.
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Old 12-08-2013, 10:16 AM   #28
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Damn dude! Is that Edgerton WI? As much as i love cold weather/snow & mustangs, I just couldn't do both anywhere near the arctic circle haha.

Looks like we're getting a few ticks above freezing, enuff to partially melt then refreeze later on (sigh). I'm never gonna get outta here...
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Old 12-08-2013, 12:04 PM   #29
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Damn dude! Is that Edgerton WI? As much as i love cold weather/snow & mustangs, I just couldn't do both anywhere near the arctic circle haha. Looks like we're getting a few ticks above freezing, enuff to partially melt then refreeze later on (sigh). I'm never gonna get outta here...
No it's Edgerton mn. I love cold weather and snow too!

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No it's Edgerton mn. I love cold weather and snow too!
I put the stang away and got the snowmobile out instead. Lol
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Old 12-08-2013, 09:08 PM   #30
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No it's Edgerton mn. I love cold weather and snow too!
I put the stang away and got the snowmobile out instead. Lol
MN...WI....when winter hits ya can't tell em apart lol. Good call on the snowmobile, saw a few utoobs of some local yokels ice skating here
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Old 01-02-2014, 09:38 AM   #31
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So any updates on how things are going? I haven't seen this thread since my last reply.
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Old 01-02-2014, 10:07 AM   #32
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So any updates on how things are going? I haven't seen this thread since my last reply.
Had life get in the way of things for a bit, then Xmas/NYE etc..Have a new job starting in a few days requiring far more of my once-free time haha. I've cobbled together the names/numbers of a couple more places to visit, but Im leaning towards a trip to Sears or Harbor Freight for some painting tools (compressor, gun, and the like) and doing it myself. I gather you also saw my other thread about the side exhaust? That has me leaning more and more into the DIY camp.

I will keep this thread updated, but with getting back on my feet after a 6 month working absence, it'll be spring before i do anything.

Appreciate the interest and sorry to keep you all swinging in the breeze
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Old 01-03-2014, 12:28 AM   #33
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No problem. Good luck man!
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Old 01-03-2014, 11:00 AM   #34
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Thanks Cole, and I hope to pick your brain about this later on down the road if that's ok
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Old 01-07-2014, 08:33 PM   #35
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Like some of the earlier posts said, avoid MAACO! My car had a "decent" Maaco paint job on it, and it only lasted two years before fading. I went back to see how much it would cost for a higher quality, longer lasting paint job. He said he can give me a 2 year warranty for $1100 or a 1 year for $950. Keep in mind that my car has NO body damage, just faded paint and a scratch here and there. I'm not even sure if they offer a longer lasting paint job anymore. I'm going elsewhere to get it done right the first time.
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