Repair of Tiny Chips - Mustang Evolution

Go Back   Mustang Evolution > Ford Mustang | Wrenching, Care and General Topics > Mustang Paint, Appearance & Detailing



Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Please support our sponsors and let them know you heard about them here!
Old 12-29-2013, 02:37 PM   #1
Registered Member
Regular
 
CandyRed11's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: Indianapolis
Region: Indiana
Posts: 95
Repair of Tiny Chips

On my red candy 2011, I have a few tiny chips in the paint. The largest is approximately 1mm in diameter. (Ya I know: pretty picky but they taunt me every time I wash/wax. "Nya nya na boo boo, we are still here" they all call in unison. Perhaps I need counseling but that is for another thread.)

I suspect that, for the best paint match, I should purchase from Ford. The what I'm looking-for is tips on techniques, prep and other products to get the best results.

How do you get it so the result isn't raised or "globby" looking? It looks like the person that owned the car before me fixed a couple of spots but they are raised and don't blend-with the surrounding paint very well. Is there a way to gently work it so it blends?

I found video but (a) the guy is just selling something on You Tube so I don't give it much credibility (b) the scratch is still visible at the end if his demo video [fail, dude ] and (c) I trust Ford to have the best match in colors.
CandyRed11 is offline   Reply With Quote
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Old 12-29-2013, 10:30 PM   #2
Registered Member
Regular
 
Sportsman's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: Hamilton
Region: Canada
Posts: 121
Subscribed... I have a nagging chip on my roof that pisses me off as well
Sportsman is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-11-2014, 11:36 PM   #3
Registered Member
Regular
 
CandyRed11's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: Indianapolis
Region: Indiana
Posts: 95
While researching my own question, I came across this video/site. This is exactly what I was looking-for. This guy/company seems like he has some SUPER insight of how to do this right.

Paint Chip Touch Up | AMMO NYC

Posting it for anyone else that would get as much out of it as I did.
Enjoy!
CandyRed11 is offline   Reply With Quote
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Old 01-31-2014, 09:51 PM   #4
Registered User
Newbie
 
Rawly's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: Kingsland
Region: Georgia
Posts: 5
I used the method in the Ammo video to repair the chip on my driver side door. I'll never close a door with the hand in which I'm holding the keys again. :/ The clear coat on mine is too thin, and while wet sanding I burned through creating a discolored patch. Now instead of having a small chip repair that kind of matches I've got a quarter sized splotch that doesn't match. Even straight from Ford the touch up doesn't match. Hopefully, I can get a fix figured out.
__________________
2014 Ruby Red Metallic GT - Manual Trans, Brembo Pkg, Roush Dual Chamber Axle Back Exhaust, Comfort Pkg
Rawly is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-01-2014, 12:12 AM   #5
Registered Member
Regular
 
CandyRed11's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: Indianapolis
Region: Indiana
Posts: 95
Yikes! I plan to pick a very out of the way place to try it out and be uber-careful. When doing the wet sanding, were you doing it by hand with 1000+ grit paper wrapped over a card?
CandyRed11 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-01-2014, 07:05 PM   #6
Registered Member
Regular
 
Join Date: Nov 2012
Region: Pennsylvania
Posts: 74
Go to www.ammonyc.com/detailing/paint-chip-touch-up , great way to repair small chips.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I747 using Mustang Evolution mobile app
Baldeagle is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-01-2014, 07:12 PM   #7
Registered Member
Regular
 
CandyRed11's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: Indianapolis
Region: Indiana
Posts: 95
Yep. That is the video I posted back in #3.

Sent from my XT907 using Mustang Evolution mobile app
CandyRed11 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-03-2014, 08:34 AM   #8
Registered Member
Regular
 
Fader's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: Boise
Region: Idaho
Posts: 249
Quote:
Originally Posted by CandyRed11 View Post
On my red candy 2011, I have a few tiny chips in the paint. The largest is approximately 1mm in diameter. (Ya I know: pretty picky but they taunt me every time I wash/wax. "Nya nya na boo boo, we are still here" they all call in unison. Perhaps I need counseling but that is for another thread.)

I suspect that, for the best paint match, I should purchase from Ford. The what I'm looking-for is tips on techniques, prep and other products to get the best results.

How do you get it so the result isn't raised or "globby" looking? It looks like the person that owned the car before me fixed a couple of spots but they are raised and don't blend-with the surrounding paint very well. Is there a way to gently work it so it blends?

I found video but (a) the guy is just selling something on You Tube so I don't give it much credibility (b) the scratch is still visible at the end if his demo video [fail, dude ] and (c) I trust Ford to have the best match in colors.
Man, I feel your pain! I have 2 spots in my Sonic Blue that I've been working on, to get just right. One is on my hood, the other is next to the hood, on my fender.

Sadly, I have bad news for you. Fixing this is going to be a lot more work than just brushing on some touch-up paint. You're going to need a can of Duplicolor Perfect Match in your color, a can of Rust-Oleum Automotive Enamel Clear-Coat, 2k, 2.5k, and 3k wet sandpaper, and plenty of tape and paper to mask off your entire door. If you're down to bare metal, make sure you get a good primer, that matches the undercoat on your paint. (Mine is black. Trust me, this DOES matter.)

You won't have to paint the whole door, but you will need to clear-coat the whole thing. DO NOT mask off and paint a small spot! You'll never get it to blend in. You'll have to feather it in. Follow the procedure you see in this video, and watch some others.



Personally, and this is just my opinion, 3 light coats of paint, then before the final coat of paint is dry, lightly spray the 1st coat of the clear-coat. When I did this on a test panel, I found the clear mixes with the paint, and after the 3rd coat of clear, it best matched the factory finish in color, and gloss.
Fader is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-04-2014, 01:38 AM   #9
Registered Member
Regular
 
89GTstanger's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: parsons
Region: Tennessee
Posts: 267
Quote:
Originally Posted by Fader View Post

Personally, and this is just my opinion, 3 light coats of paint, then before the final coat of paint is dry, lightly spray the 1st coat of the clear-coat. When I did this on a test panel, I found the clear mixes with the paint, and after the 3rd coat of clear, it best matched the factory finish in color, and gloss.
You did good till this point. I didn't watch the video, went to school for so I didn't need to, but dont spray clear before the last coat of base dries. You need to let the base flash first, dry to the touch. The best way to spray the base to get a good blend is to start small with the first coat ONLY lightly covering just the center of the work area. Second coat your go out a little further and 3rd coat go out further sweeping the spray gun on the edges. If you get done with that and can still see a slight change in colors then do another pass with the gun but back up about 12-16 inches. As long as your paint matches this should give you near perfect blend.

Also I want to add that if you did go to bare metal that you must clean it with acetone or some other so.Pilar cleaner. Then lightly spray the bare metal only with an etching primer. Then you can spray your sand able primers on that. If you dont use etching primer on bare metal you will have done all that work for nothing.
__________________
You can't lose if you put God first!

1989 LX, 306 with TF top end kit, Anderson N-21 cam, TKO 600 trans with steel splatter shield,full Maximum Motorsports Mustang maximum Grip box, Detroit locker rear end with 31 spline Moser axles. Staggered wheels with Nitto 555 315/35/17 out back.
89GTstanger is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-04-2014, 03:12 AM   #10
Registered Member
Regular
 
Fader's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: Boise
Region: Idaho
Posts: 249
Quote:
Originally Posted by 89GTstanger View Post
You did good till this point. I didn't watch the video, went to school for so I didn't need to, but dont spray clear before the last coat of base dries. You need to let the base flash first, dry to the touch. The best way to spray the base to get a good blend is to start small with the first coat ONLY lightly covering just the center of the work area. Second coat your go out a little further and 3rd coat go out further sweeping the spray gun on the edges. If you get done with that and can still see a slight change in colors then do another pass with the gun but back up about 12-16 inches. As long as your paint matches this should give you near perfect blend.

Also I want to add that if you did go to bare metal that you must clean it with acetone or some other so.Pilar cleaner. Then lightly spray the bare metal only with an etching primer. Then you can spray your sand able primers on that. If you dont use etching primer on bare metal you will have done all that work for nothing.
Not trying to argue, and definitely wanted OP to know it was just my opinion. Because we have 3-step paint, and Duplicolor is intended to be 2-step, I understood the missing step to be a mix of paint and clear, between painting and shooting pure clear-coat. It was something I tried on a piece of scrap aluminum, using lacquer paint, mostly dry, and enamel clear. The result was a finish that required 2 passes with 3k-grit, no compound, and light polishing. The color and finish match, even with metal flake/pearl paint was spot-on.

Anyway, that's where I got that idea, because it worked. But, if it's wrong, it's wrong. I'm just an idiot that took 2 small chips, and turned them into a major issue. Also, too damned stubborn to give up, and have the body shop paint it.
Fader is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Lower Navigation
Go Back   Mustang Evolution > Ford Mustang | Wrenching, Care and General Topics > Mustang Paint, Appearance & Detailing

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off


» Like Us On Facebook



03:26 AM


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8
Copyright ©2000 - 2017, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Content Relevant URLs by vBSEO 3.6.0

MustangEvolution.com is in no way associated with or endorsed by Ford Motor Company.