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Old 02-16-2014, 03:53 AM   #36
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Originally Posted by Red5.0 View Post
I know no one wants to use a brush but I do. I live in an area where there is some sand and a little loose soil. You wash the car and in five minutes its covered in sand again, it sucks. I tried using the wash mitt and the two bucket method and boy was it a huge mistake. Now my car has tons of swirls and scratches even my side mirrors. The sand and dirt are just so hard to get out of the mitts so I'm gonna stick to my brush, had been using it on the mach 1 and that car looked really good. Kinda feel like my 13 car has more swirls and scratches than my 03 mach did.
Damn, that's unfortunate man. How about investing in a foam cannon and super-sudsy shampoo? Cake the car in suds than use a pressure washer to rinse. Follow that up with an electric leaf blower and you've got a touch less wash. Lastly, use a synthetic quick detailer which will reduce the chance of debris sticking to your car via static electricity while driving.

If you wanted to go all out, get a professional to apply OptiCoat or any permanent coating to your paint which will strengthen your factory paint and be a perm wax as well.
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Old 02-16-2014, 09:38 AM   #37
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What do you guys use to get off bugs? I had a dog of a time trying to scrub those turds off after i made my way back from Wisconsin last year. And seeing as i'll be headed up there in may, i could use some advice on what works best.
Magic eraser will remove every last bug with ease. Trust me. I have been using magic eraser for over 8 years and never caused harm too the paint. Trust me on this bro. Guarantee you will thank me on this one. Your car will be bug free even bugs caked on for 6 months to year.
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Old 02-16-2014, 10:58 AM   #38
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Originally Posted by 2 Stangz View Post
Damn, that's unfortunate man. How about investing in a foam cannon and super-sudsy shampoo? Cake the car in suds than use a pressure washer to rinse. Follow that up with an electric leaf blower and you've got a touch less wash. Lastly, use a synthetic quick detailer which will reduce the chance of debris sticking to your car via static electricity while driving.

If you wanted to go all out, get a professional to apply OptiCoat or any permanent coating to your paint which will strengthen your factory paint and be a perm wax as well.
Yeah sucks.. Hmm I'll look into that, I have really been thinking about a leaf blower its another step that I wouldn't have to be touching the car and risking of sand being stuck to any drying towel that I would be using.

I am thinking of finding someone to see what they can do about all these swirls and scratches (it's really not that bad, you cannot notice it unless you get super close and start inspecting the car in the sun, but still its annoying when the car is 9 months old), I think with some polish and buffing they'll come out and at the same time I'll ask about getting a good wax on it. Sometimes it's just a little hard to find someone that knows that they are doing.
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Old 02-16-2014, 12:13 PM   #39
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Originally Posted by 2011 Kona Blue View Post
Magic eraser will remove every last bug with ease. Trust me. I have been using magic eraser for over 8 years and never caused harm too the paint. Trust me on this bro. Guarantee you will thank me on this one. Your car will be bug free even bugs caked on for 6 months to year.

It sounds like such an obvious answer. Yet i never would have thought about that, thanks man. That's going to be my Go to for long backroad cruises.

I'm going to dive into the world of chemical guys products after all. As soon as uncle sam deposits my tax refund, i'll be ordering Chemical guys Butter Wet Wax, and one of their Glazes. I hear the glaze works well on tiny microscratches.
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Old 02-16-2014, 12:30 PM   #40
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It sounds like such an obvious answer. Yet i never would have thought about that, thanks man. That's going to be my Go to for long backroad cruises.

I'm going to dive into the world of chemical guys products after all. As soon as uncle sam deposits my tax refund, i'll be ordering Chemical guys Butter Wet Wax, and one of their Glazes. I hear the glaze works well on tiny microscratches.
Bro, when you try it on your bug splatter you won't believe how amazing it works. Just completely wet the magic eraser and rub, the baked on bugs come right off. You can even use pressure if needed and no problem. Just watch and see you will be blown away what a simple solution and you will say Kona blue holy cow. Your da man..lmao. guaranteed bro!
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Old 02-16-2014, 12:41 PM   #41
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@Red5.0: I'm telling you man, I think you should look into OptiCoat:

Quote:
Opti-Coat (Opti-Guard) is a hard wearing, aftermarket, ceramic clear coat for superior resistance to scratching (9H) and chemical etching from environmental impacts. It provides permanent protection for all factory paints, and can also be applied to exterior glass, metal and hard plastic surfaces.

Opti-Coat is not a wax or sealant like other products on the market. It is a ceramic clear coating very similar to factory type clear coats. A layer of Opti-Coat measures approx. 2 microns in thickness, or about 100 times thicker than your typical wax or sealant. Opti Coat 2.0 / Opti-Coat Pro
You'd never need to wax again (has all the properties of wax + more), it's 3x harder than factory clear coat (3x less scratches), and if you do scratch or swirl it'll be on the OptiCoat, not the clear coat. Just have your OptiCoat re-applied every 2yrs and your paint underneath will be pristine. I paid $100 for it and $400 for a "paint correction" - what professionals call buffing and polishing. PC before and after:
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Old 02-16-2014, 04:17 PM   #42
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Love this thread. Very helpful ideas.
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Old 02-17-2014, 12:21 AM   #43
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@Red5.0: I'm telling you man, I think you should look into OptiCoat:



You'd never need to wax again (has all the properties of wax + more), it's 3x harder than factory clear coat (3x less scratches), and if you do scratch or swirl it'll be on the OptiCoat, not the clear coat. Just have your OptiCoat re-applied every 2yrs and your paint underneath will be pristine. I paid $100 for it and $400 for a "paint correction" - what professionals call buffing and polishing. PC before and after:
Whoa!! It's really that good!!??? Man that looks GREAT! My paint isn't anywhere near as bad as your before pic (might not be too bad actually but like any other car guy we hate seeing any sort of imperfection in our paint) but If this product can keep it from getting worse I definitely want it, looks really good.

So any good shop should have this? Afterwards can I just wash it like I use to?
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Old 02-17-2014, 02:05 AM   #44
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I may have confused you; the swirls you see are from 4yrs of improper washing by the previous owner. The non-swirled side is the result of a 'paint correction' (buffing) process, OptiCoat had not been applied yet. After the entire vehicle has been paint corrected, that's when the OptiCoat goes on.

---

OptiCoat acts as a secondary, 3x stronger clear coat with properties of a wax/sealant (high-gloss shine+depth, sheds dirt/debris much easier, UV protection, sheets water right off, etc.). Once it becomes swirled you just remove that layer of OptiCoat and apply a new one. It's like re-clear coating your entire car at the cost of only $100 + the benefits of a perm wax. You can put waxes on top of it, but its shedding agents apparently work so well that wax will be gone within a month.

Sense it crystalizes itself to your paint, it can only be removed via a rotary buffer. Meaning, you can use a super-concentrated car shampoo and it will NOT come off, and debris will come off much easier than using a wax-safe shampoo.

If I've repeated myself or rambled I apologize. Coffee's got me in zombie mode (up late studying).
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Old 02-17-2014, 06:10 PM   #45
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I rinse the car off really well, and then start from the roof, down the body panels, and go from there. I rarely just wash though. After i do the final rinse, i'll take out a leaf blower and blow off excess water. I never towel dry.

After the wash i'll either spray her down with a quick wax, or a detailing spray. Just to clear up any water spots that dried before i got them off.

Then, comes the wheels. I make sure they're dry. Then use Turtle Wax chrome polish to really bring out the shine. Afterwards, if they need it, i'll apply a coat of tire shine. Some of the armor all spray.

Then if i need to wax, i have my system of doing that aswell.
Great idea! I need to try this. Towel drying still does the job, though I end up with a few fibers left on the car.
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Old 02-17-2014, 06:12 PM   #46
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Originally Posted by 2 Stangz View Post
I may have confused you; the swirls you see are from 4yrs of improper washing by the previous owner. The non-swirled side is the result of a 'paint correction' (buffing) process, OptiCoat had not been applied yet. After the entire vehicle has been paint corrected, that's when the OptiCoat goes on.

---

OptiCoat acts as a secondary, 3x stronger clear coat with properties of a wax/sealant (high-gloss shine+depth, sheds dirt/debris much easier, UV protection, sheets water right off, etc.). Once it becomes swirled you just remove that layer of OptiCoat and apply a new one. It's like re-clear coating your entire car at the cost of only $100 + the benefits of a perm wax. You can put waxes on top of it, but its shedding agents apparently work so well that wax will be gone within a month.

Sense it crystalizes itself to your paint, it can only be removed via a rotary buffer. Meaning, you can use a super-concentrated car shampoo and it will NOT come off, and debris will come off much easier than using a wax-safe shampoo.

If I've repeated myself or rambled I apologize. Coffee's got me in zombie mode (up late studying).
Ahhhh lol ok. Either way it looks good, I checked it out last night on auto geek and the had some comparisons and it did a great job. I'll definitely look into it thanks!
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