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Old 01-23-2014, 10:36 PM   #1
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Good wax for dark blue?

Hey guys I'm looking a really good wax for my Kona blue. I want something that will make the metallic paint just pop. Any recommendations?

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Old 01-24-2014, 04:02 AM   #2
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Croftgate detailing and cleaning sprays have had great results for me. Meguiars and Mothers are also ones you'll probably hear.

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Old 01-24-2014, 04:30 AM   #3
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Yeah I use me quits now just wanted something made for dark colors or metallics

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Old 01-24-2014, 05:54 AM   #4
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Meguiars stupid auto correct

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Old 01-24-2014, 06:52 PM   #5
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Any good quality carnauba wax will do exactly that. Your not going to find a wax specifically for dark or metallic colors.
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Old 01-24-2014, 07:20 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fordfan100 View Post
Hey guys I'm looking a really good wax for my Kona blue. I want something that will make the metallic paint just pop. Any recommendations?

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I use Meguiar's Ultimate Compound and Ultimate Polish, with Mother's Carnuba paste on my Sonic Blue GT. You don't want to use any colored wax, at all.

If you're using a quality wax, with a quality compound and polish, your Kona Blue will look like it came from the factory. Here's a guide for proper buffing/waxing.

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Old 01-24-2014, 07:24 PM   #7
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Something I would do if I had a brand new car, I'd wet sand it with 1500,2000,2500 and then buff it with the 3 compounds and give it a mirror showroom shine. Have to be careful with that tho because you can burn thru the paint really easy.
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Old 01-24-2014, 10:40 PM   #8
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Something I would do if I had a brand new car, I'd wet sand it with 1500,2000,2500 and then buff it with the 3 compounds and give it a mirror showroom shine. Have to be careful with that tho because you can burn thru the paint really easy.
If the car was brand new, why would you sand it? Also, NEVER sand with anything but wet 3000-grit, unless you want a new paint job. Believe me, the paint on the newer Mustangs is fragile, and paper-thin. I have a hood and fender that need re-painted because of me sanding.
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Old 01-24-2014, 10:51 PM   #9
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I know exactly how to sand. I graduated salutatorian as a body teck. I would wet sand it to get the texture out of the paint. Starting with 3000 would not do anything. You have to start with a rougher grit. Ad long as you actually know what your doing then you can wet sand a buff a new car. I happen to know what I'm doing. On a fresh paint job you would normally start wet sanding with either 800 or 1000 depending on how good the clear was laid on and work up from there. If its a real good painter and can lay the clear down wet and smooth you can start with a higher grit. Like I said, need to know what your doing. Just because you can't do it doesn't mean someone else can't either.
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Old 01-25-2014, 12:18 AM   #10
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I know exactly how to sand. I graduated salutatorian as a body teck. I would wet sand it to get the texture out of the paint. Starting with 3000 would not do anything. You have to start with a rougher grit. Ad long as you actually know what your doing then you can wet sand a buff a new car. I happen to know what I'm doing. On a fresh paint job you would normally start wet sanding with either 800 or 1000 depending on how good the clear was laid on and work up from there. If its a real good painter and can lay the clear down wet and smooth you can start with a higher grit. Like I said, need to know what your doing. Just because you can't do it doesn't mean someone else can't either.
I get what you're saying. I just don't know why you'd want/need to sand a fresh paint job. Especially since they're sprayed by robots now.

And, since not everyone graduated as a body tech, not everyone would be an expert like you. I'm just suggesting caution, since I made the mistake, using 2k-grit, wet-sanding. Certainly my mistake, but I'd hate like hell to see someone else do what I did.

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Old 01-25-2014, 12:30 AM   #11
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Well of dobit because even tho a new paint job is nice, if you wet sand it and buff it properly it will look like a mirror. Its not for someone that doesn't know how that's for sure.
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Old 01-31-2014, 09:54 PM   #12
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Rather than starting a new thread I thought I'd ask here. What's a good way to remove any excess wax if I've gotten it on the textured plastic surfaces? I'm thinking about trying a stiff toothbrush. But if there's a proven working alternative I'd like to go with that.
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Old 01-31-2014, 10:04 PM   #13
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You can use dawn dish soap which will remove all the wax it touches or you can try too gone. I hear that works well.
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Old 02-02-2014, 04:10 AM   #14
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Collinite wax. This stuff is MAGIC.
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Old 02-02-2014, 10:38 AM   #15
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Why not try Meguiars Black Wax? It is not a colored wax but is designed for dark colors.
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Old 02-04-2014, 04:36 PM   #16
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I know exactly how to sand. I graduated salutatorian as a body teck. I would wet sand it to get the texture out of the paint. Starting with 3000 would not do anything. You have to start with a rougher grit. Ad long as you actually know what your doing then you can wet sand a buff a new car. I happen to know what I'm doing. On a fresh paint job you would normally start wet sanding with either 800 or 1000 depending on how good the clear was laid on and work up from there. If its a real good painter and can lay the clear down wet and smooth you can start with a higher grit. Like I said, need to know what your doing. Just because you can't do it doesn't mean someone else can't either.
Thats how I learned how to wetsand a car. I went to college for automotive restoration. Learned how to wetsand and buff paint on a 1953 Studebaker.
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