Junkman is pretty good for how-tos. If you want to step up to something more professional there is also AMMO NYC here: ammonyc.com.
Depending on how nutty you want to get, there's lots of options. I'll just list my normal routine and products:
Wash on the weekends. First, rinse well to get the big stuff. Next, foam gun with DP Xtreme Foam on the entire car. RInse thoroughly again.Two bucket method hand wash with buckets that have grit guards (important). Microfiber mitt, and more of the DP wash.
Wash from the top down with plenty of suds. Get the painted surfaces first and then move to any unpainted plastics. Then Glass, and lastly your wheels. (best two have two mitts, one for painted surfaces and glass and another for the wheels).
Follow up the wash mitt with some good wheel cleaner (Simple Green works well, but it depends on what type of wheels you have) and brush to get rid of the crud.
Then one final good rinse on everything. Drying is important, this is the area most people introduce the most swirls and defects:
I first use a leaf blower (yes a leaf blower) to blow away the water as much as possible so my cloths touch my paint as little as possible. It's important that the leaf blower be electric because a gas powered one will get exhaust all over your car.
After I've gotten that done well. (It usually gets rid of about 90% of the water) I grab my best clothes Zano Borderless Blondes (Borderless very plush towels so there is nothing with an edge to cause swirls). I spray both sides of the towel with my detailing spray (Gary Dean's Infinite Use Detail Juice, it's a concentrate product you mix with distilled water. It's AMAZINGLY good and you get a good 60+ Gallons of total detail spray out of a $40 sized bottle)
Dry everything down carefully and gently. Do NOT put pressure down. I only use the Zano's on painted surfaces and glass. For the wheels a normal microfiber cloth is fine.
Then for the glass, I recommend Stoner's Invisible Glass with a good waffle-weave microfiber cloth.
Then, just to get rid of any waterspots you might have missed, lightly mist each panel with the detail spray and follow it up with some gentle wiping with the Zanos.
Now.....The Engine Bay! One of the most overlooked areas. First, make sure your fuse box is securely shut, put a plastic bag over your filter if you have a cold air intake and another plastic bag over the alternator (down and to the right facing your engine). Make sure everything is secure and then spray everything down with the hose (Don't use a powerwasher). Then with a good medium sized brush (Mother's makes a good brush set) and some SImple Green, spray everything down with the simple green really well and let it settle. Then agitate everything by scrubbing with the brush all over. Once you're done, let it sit for a couple of minutes and then rinse everything off really well.
Let it drip dry a couple of minutes then follow it up with the leaf blower as best you can in the entire bay. Then you can remove the plastic bags and then blow the filter and alternator off just in case.
Hand dry what you can with a microfiber cloth, then turn on the car and let it warm up, it'll help dry everything off after that.
Got all that?
Now for swirls:
Swirls are caused by grinding dirt or rough surfaces on your paint. They're microscopic gouges in your clearcoat. So what you have to do is polish. What polishing does is edges away your clearcoat to level everything off. This is fractions of Mils of clearcoat, so it doesn't hurt the paint.
I would recommend watching Junkman and AMMO NYC to get familiar with the technique and then a good Dual Action Polisher to get started is Griot's Garage DA. Good power, affordable and reliable. Pads are a dime a dozen, both Junkman and Ammo NYC give suggestions, those are good to go with.
Now for your products: Meguiar's Professional series is a solid choice namely M105 (for deeper swirls and more neglected paint) and M205 (lighter swirls and to finish). However, I prefer Menzerna FG400 (a good all-round product).
Finally, for dust in-between washes: An Original California
Duster is a good option. It's exactly what it sounds like, a duster for your car. But the most important thing to remember using it, do NOT press down or you WILL introduce swirls. Use a very gentle sweep where the fibers just barely touch your paint.
For any bird poop, smudges, debris etc. Never wipe your paint without using detail spray, or you will introduce swirls.
For Waxing/Sealants: I prefer Klasse for my base layer (a good old-school synthetic that lasts long and has a clear wet look), then I top that with 1-2 layers of Pinnacle Souveran ( Pure Carnauba, doesn't last as long but gives a nice warm glow)
Remember to clay your car prior to sealing/waxing. Mother's makes a good starter kit for it. Both junkman and AMMO have how-tos on how to use it.
My biggest piece of advice would be to learn the techniques completely and FOLLOW DIRECTIONS ON THE BOTTLES.