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Old 12-18-2014, 10:53 PM   #36
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Out of curiosity, what generally happens if it is not done with a DA and foam pad? I understand the purpose of the foam pad, to spread out pressure so it doesn't hit one place too hard, especially on curves.
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Old 12-18-2014, 10:53 PM   #37
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Thanks!
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Old 12-18-2014, 10:57 PM   #38
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the scratches dont go away or come back. hand sanding is very very aggressive, but a paded da is super soft, with out "digging" or disforming ur work. If ur car came in fine but needed a color change, sand 30 mins with this padded da and its ready for color. now that sander is crazy high end. but the magic is the pad
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Old 12-18-2014, 10:59 PM   #39
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dinobike19 View Post
the scratches dont go away or come back. hand sanding is very very aggressive, but a paded da is super soft, with out "digging" or disforming ur work. If ur car came in fine but needed a color change, sand 30 mins with this padded da and its ready for color. now that sander is crazy high end. but the magic is the pad
Ok, i'll look for a pad like that, and a disk. You said something like 320 right? Then primer, and 600 grit sand (maybe repeat?) and then paint and clear. Then of course 2k grit and buff. Just want to make sure i've got the sequence of events right.

There were rock chips and other small pitting that i needed to sand down further to get out. Which so far seem to have come out fairly well when i go down to the plastic.
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Old 12-18-2014, 11:07 PM   #40
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well ur wet sanding right now right? what grit? this is what i do word for word. finish ur work in the highest grit u think ur primer will fill easliy. after drying time. hand block. 240 grit until perfect. then padded da 320, and the 500 or. try not to go up in paper more then 100. think the 240 in large scratches, then u go over with 320, and then 500 making them smaller and smaller. at 500 with the da u will almost get a shine. the paint and clear. use "final wipe" before primer and paint. if after paint is on and before clear is on dont worry u can still fix things, once clear is on, well thats what u have now
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Old 12-18-2014, 11:10 PM   #41
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MAKE SURE ur not using water borne paint. this will not work if u are.and painting it at home if it's water borne paint is a very very bad idea
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Old 12-18-2014, 11:16 PM   #42
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I've been using 400 grit wet sanding. Feels pretty damn smooth to my fingers. I was originally planning to bump up to 600 to finish it out even more before primer.


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Old 12-18-2014, 11:17 PM   #43
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I was planning to get the paint mixed at a body shop.


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Old 12-18-2014, 11:37 PM   #44
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Make sure to ask at the paint store whether the paint is water-based or solvent-based. If they can only sell water-based, in your county, it will take forever to dry... if it even does! I hear that you can use a heat gun, but, all of my information is secondhand, as I've never used water-based automotive paint.
It was also recommended to me that I should avoid doing so.

My offer still stands though... If you can't get the solvent-based paint, I'll smuggle you in some from up here.
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Old 12-18-2014, 11:39 PM   #45
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I'll ask around to a few shops and see what they can get me.


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Old 12-19-2014, 12:36 AM   #46
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I can get solvent based paint here. Also get the right reducer for the temp. Its getting "cold" here so you may need to get a little space here to make sure it drys before each coat or else the paint will crack. And its a good idea to check out how to set up your paint gun on youtube. I had no idea how important that was and after i set it up right it made a world of difference


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Old 12-19-2014, 11:11 AM   #47
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Yea I was planning on having a heater inside the garage when doing it.


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Old 12-20-2014, 05:13 PM   #48
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A bit of progress. The second one seems easier. Probably since I realized I don't need to go all the way through the paint.

220, 600, 800 wet sanding.

Scratches aren't very noticeable.Click image for larger version

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Old 12-20-2014, 05:19 PM   #49
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How many coats of primer, paint and clear should I do? Also what size nozzles for the spray gun should I use for each?


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Old 12-20-2014, 07:42 PM   #50
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Typically, you don't want the layers of paint to be too thick, especially on the polyurethane parts, as the paint can potentially crack. Use your best judgment. Try to apply enough material to completely cover the parts but without any sags, runs or "holidays" in the paint. You'll just have to practice! You have the perfect parts to practice on.
As far as the gun setup, take Travis' advice and watch some videos on gun setup. You may have to tweak that a bit also, so find something to check the spray pattern on before you start spraying the actual parts.
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Old 12-20-2014, 07:52 PM   #51
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One method is to apply a light coat to give the part some "color" and then apply another coat at "full strength" once the first coat gets tacky.
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Old 01-17-2015, 01:17 AM   #52
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So i can't find a place in Sacramento that has solvent based paints... Just water based.

I'm gonna need one of y'all to hook me up. A quart or 3.

As of right now i plan to do the side skirts, mirrors, and front bumper. Maybe 1-2 quarts should be enough.
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Old 01-17-2015, 04:16 AM   #53
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Its mixed 1-1 with solvent so 1qt of paint will will make 2qts


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Old 01-17-2015, 11:20 AM   #54
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Yes. Probably a pint of base and a pint of clear will be more than enough.

Well, I don't think that the paint store is open until Monday so that would be the earliest that I can pick some up.

Are you in Moraga right now?
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Old 01-17-2015, 11:41 AM   #55
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Yea I'm in Moraga. But I probably won't be doing it until I'm home for a good amount of time. So probably not until spring brake in April or just summer


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