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Old 07-24-2014, 01:20 AM   #1
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DIY Painting

Ok so I've been throwing around the idea of starting a bit of my own painting. Yes I know for the average guy it's a daunting task. But I have just a few panels that need painting and we have a good compressor at home, so I've been thinking of buying a nice gun and attempting it myself (on junk panels first). If anyone has done this what all will I need to get started?

Got the compressor, will need an HVLP spray gun and the required fittings. Of course the safety equipment and respirators, as well as the sanding/wet sanding and masking stuff.

I have a machine buffer (rotary) so I can do a proper cut/buff.


Just wondering what you all think?

If it comes down to it my friend may be able to hook me up with a paint booth to use, I'll just have to do the work myself, which would happen at home anyway.


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Old 07-24-2014, 02:19 AM   #2
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What size compressor? You need like a 75 gal one to do a good job. Pressure is everything for an even spray. Other than that its not hard prepping is everything if you can get your hands on a spray booth then that would be your best option. And tbh i started with a HF one and then moved up to a fancier one like a real one from an actual paint shop and i didn't notice a difference so i say save your money and put it towards good paint and a better clear coat and when it comes down to it, its nothing that you cant sand off and re paint. It'll deff take some practice but its really not as hard as it looks if theres little to no body work.
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Old 07-24-2014, 04:30 AM   #3
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Haha.
I'm going to do the paint and bodywork on the bed of that car hauler that I just bought. I thought about spraying the second Bullitt as well but I may have a body shop do it because of the spray booth thing. I don't think that car hauler will fit in most spray booths anyways.
I do have a bit of experience spraying paint though. I was one of the first people in CA to use a HVLP spray gun and have sprayed, literally, thousands of gallons of paint. I used the HVLP for painting cabinetry and woodwork to an automotive level of quality in custom built homes for many years.
Here's the problem that you may run into in Sac, and most other CA counties... They only sell water-based automotive paints in most counties now. Which is fine, the technology has come a long ways. The trouble is, now you NEED to spray cars, or large objects, in a paint booth, otherwise it won't dry completely. Small pieces can be dried with a heat gun but large items need to be done in a booth with a heat source.
Of course, up here in the mountains, we have no such silly laws and can use any kind of paint that we want.
Let me know, I'll hook you up...

Other than that, pretty much what Travis said.
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Old 07-24-2014, 10:11 AM   #4
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Haha.

I'm going to do the paint and bodywork on the bed of that car hauler that I just bought. I thought about spraying the second Bullitt as well but I may have a body shop do it because of the spray booth thing. I don't think that car hauler will fit in most spray booths anyways.

I do have a bit of experience spraying paint though. I was one of the first people in CA to use a HVLP spray gun and have sprayed, literally, thousands of gallons of paint. I used the HVLP for painting cabinetry and woodwork to an automotive level of quality in custom built homes for many years.

Here's the problem that you may run into in Sac, and most other CA counties... They only sell water-based automotive paints in most counties now. Which is fine, the technology has come a long ways. The trouble is, now you NEED to spray cars, or large objects, in a paint booth, otherwise it won't dry completely. Small pieces can be dried with a heat gun but large items need to be done in a booth with a heat source.

Of course, up here in the mountains, we have no such silly laws and can use any kind of paint that we want.

Let me know, I'll hook you up...



Other than that, pretty much what Travis said.

Right now what I'm thinking are my Cobra mirrors, Side Skirts, and a new bumper. Also I would go to a body/paint shop and have them mix the paint for me.


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Old 07-24-2014, 10:31 AM   #5
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Not sure on the size of the compressor, but here is the best pic I have of it next to the Flowmaster boxes. It's not like I would be doing huge parts.
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Old 07-24-2014, 12:27 PM   #6
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Asked my dad, it's 21 gal. 2.5 hp. 125psi max


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Old 07-24-2014, 02:22 PM   #7
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I can get solvent based paint where i live and i forgot about the drying part i ran into problems with that i was told that of i didnt use a booth i had to let it dry for 2+ weeks before i could think about wet sanding it
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Old 07-24-2014, 02:31 PM   #8
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But i guess you are paint small things so your compressor might be able to work. I think i have a 25? And when i painted my car that thing was running constantly trying to keep up the air pressure
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Old 07-24-2014, 02:33 PM   #9
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Yea small stuff like the mirrors, skirts and I want to get a Roush Bumper with CF splitter. I may buy a gun and give it a go.
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Old 07-24-2014, 02:35 PM   #10
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Asked my dad, it's 21 gal. 2.5 hp. 125psi max


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That will probably work OK for doing the small stuff. It's when you're doing something big where the compressor can get "behind" near the end.
The important number, for using air tools, is how many cubic feet per minute that the compressor will produce at the desired pressure.
If you look on that compressor, there should be a sticker on it stating how many CFM at certain PSI's that it produces. It's helpful to know that info when choosing a spray gun, and all air tools, as the HVLP's require more air than a conventional gun.
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Old 07-24-2014, 02:56 PM   #11
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I can get solvent based paint where i live and i forgot about the drying part i ran into problems with that i was told that of i didnt use a booth i had to let it dry for 2+ weeks before i could think about wet sanding it
What county is Concord in?
It's been so damned hot lately that you might get away spraying without a booth.
Just have to paint early in the morning...
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Old 07-24-2014, 03:10 PM   #12
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What county is Concord in?

It's been so damned hot lately that you might get away spraying without a booth.

Just have to paint early in the morning...

Contra costa
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Old 07-28-2014, 10:48 PM   #13
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I would definitely go for the paint booth if you have the option. If you get a bunch of crud in fresh paint, it WILL show up if not removed, and it's a losing battle to remove it. You'd be shocked how much crud is in the wind.
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Old 07-29-2014, 01:20 AM   #14
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I would definitely go for the paint booth if you have the option. If you get a bunch of crud in fresh paint, it WILL show up if not removed, and it's a losing battle to remove it. You'd be shocked how much crud is in the wind.

Its nots too bad if you are inside just hose down the surrounding area so no bust is blown up by you sweep out your garage close the door let it all settle for like a half hour then there shouldn't be toooooo much **** in the air
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Old 09-08-2014, 07:26 PM   #15
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With that little compressor I'd stick to doing 1 or 2 panels at a time.. Make sure you have a water separator or filter. Cause you don't want water dripping on your paint. Main thing is 50/50 over lap. Keep your pressure around 20 psi and you should be good. The hardest thing is body work and your prep work.. The painting is honestly not that hard. Just don't keep the gun on 1 spot too long cause the paint will build up and sag or run on you.


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Old 12-18-2014, 10:02 PM   #16
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Try on old panels first is a must. If the panels your doing are new then only lighty scuff the panels with a gray scotch brite pad and wipe with cleaner. paint and clear. Gun spray guns are a lot of money. mine was 900$. if your have to do body work only buy top grade product, even sandpaper and tape. no blue or green house tape. I've worked for shops and own my own shop, old school way is the best. body work, clean, high build primer ( not spray can EVER), hand blocking, clean, paint, clear. cut and buff if needed. I did this no schooling, you can too. practice practice practice. to do it right its not cheap and don't cheap out. you wont be happy
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Old 12-18-2014, 10:10 PM   #17
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Ironic that you posted today. I actually just started sanding. It's an OEM plastic that I'm doing so it's a bit easier. I've mostly been wet sanding to take off original paint so it's been staying pretty smooth most of the time.

I am doing it cheap, but that's because the car will be getting a full paint job in the future. This is just so I can put on my side skirts and have them look the same color as the car.
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I care more right now about performance than I do looks anyway.


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Old 12-18-2014, 10:12 PM   #18
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so it can in black primer then right? if so ur prep is like 2 mins
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Old 12-18-2014, 10:15 PM   #19
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Ehh I still want it to look decent. We have a decent compressor, so I'll probably get a cheap gun. Plus then I'll be able to swap nozzles and use it for maybe stuff like plasti dip.

I may primer using a spray can since I can sand that a bit also, but I'll do the paint and clear with a gun


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Old 12-18-2014, 10:20 PM   #20
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be careful b/c primer in the can only fills 320 grit. its not very good. it will look good, but one day the scratches come back, under the paint. and you can find a cheap gun that sprays ok. panel by panel is a smart way to do things.
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Old 12-18-2014, 10:23 PM   #21
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Try to save the factory primer if you can. You'll have a hard time matching the quality of it.
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Old 12-18-2014, 10:25 PM   #22
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be careful b/c primer in the can only fills 320 grit. its not very good. it will look good, but one day the scratches come back, under the paint. and you can find a cheap gun that sprays ok. panel by panel is a smart way to do things.

I'm only doing side skirts, and mirrors. Nothing too big or something people will notice. Also have been using 400 wet grit, taking a bit longer than a more abrasive one, but it's keeping it nice and smooth and even in the process


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Old 12-18-2014, 10:26 PM   #23
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Try to save the factory primer if you can. You'll have a hard time matching the quality of it.

That's gone lol


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Old 12-18-2014, 10:30 PM   #24
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lol well thats what learning is all about. at least u didnt mess up a crazy rare '69 gto. just dont rush and if u get stuck or need help come on here or utube has some good vid's
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Old 12-18-2014, 10:30 PM   #25
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That's gone lol


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Haha.
I know that it's kind of difficult and time consuming to just sand off the clear and base to get down to the primer.

I'm a glutton for punishment though...
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Old 12-18-2014, 10:33 PM   #26
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I'm starting on small things like this on purpose. I do want to get a new Bumper and paint that, it would be brand new so not as much sanding prep. Learning on stuff like this first. It doesn't seem too bad for these small things. Metal panels will definitely be different though.

I guess I'll see how it turns out. Doing the other side skirt tomorrow.

I asked some other people, but what grit should I use before laying the primer on? I like wet sanding, so something that works with that.


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Old 12-18-2014, 10:34 PM   #27
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Haha.
I know that it's kind of difficult and time consuming to just sand off the clear and base to get down to the primer.

I'm a glutton for punishment though...

Ron. Maybe I should put up my Bullitt skirts on auction. See how much I can get for them lmao.


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Old 12-18-2014, 10:38 PM   #28
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Ron. Maybe I should put up my Bullitt skirts on auction. See how much I can get for them lmao.


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That isn't necessary!
I'll give you a fair price for them!
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Old 12-18-2014, 10:40 PM   #29
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depends on the primer. if its from the can u might be safe with 240 or 320. hard to say. do your last sander with a da and a foam pad between the da and paper. comes out nicer and the scratches arent as deep
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Old 12-18-2014, 10:42 PM   #30
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I have a DA sander, but for the life of me could not find any sand disks in any stores I checked for some reason, which is why I got an assortment of 220,400,600,800,1000,1500,2000. All are wet or dry sand paper in sheets.


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Old 12-18-2014, 10:43 PM   #31
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depends on the primer. if its from the can u might be safe with 240 or 320. hard to say. do your last sander with a da and a foam pad between the da and paper. comes out nicer and the scratches arent as deep
What do you think about 600 Dino? Is that too fine?
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Old 12-18-2014, 10:44 PM   #32
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for before paint? i assume thats what u mean?
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Old 12-18-2014, 10:48 PM   #33
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for before paint? i assume thats what u mean?
Yes. Before the base is applied.
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Old 12-18-2014, 10:50 PM   #34
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600 is ok. i use 500 as i dont find it much different and 500 here is in a big roll. some shops go up to 1000 which i find is not needed. the last sanding has to be done with a da with a foam pad. pics of pad coming just got in from the shop
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Old 12-18-2014, 10:52 PM   #35
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use this in between the da and paper.
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