I have a black mustang and out of the blue one day appeared this long scratch on my hood. I tried Meguiar's ScratchX and it didn't do anything except leave additional swirl marks around it so I wouldn't recommend that. If you do try something, I recommend you get it through Amazon Prime so if it doesn't work you can return it for full refund like it did. Would love to hear what you guys on this forum recommend as well. Ultimate compound might be better according to Amazon's reviews, just too afraid to try it unless someone on here recommends it.
Hi Gumbus,
I have a 2013 swirl marks on sides and hood in the sun called Autogeek in Stuart fl ask for Andre he hooked me up with a orbital buffer and swirl remover I had never done this before but you can't see any swirl marks now
Tell him James with the black 2013 mustang sent you. You will be amazed
I have a black mustang and out of the blue one day appeared this long scratch on my hood. I tried Meguiar's ScratchX and it didn't do anything except leave additional swirl marks around it so I wouldn't recommend that. If you do try something, I recommend you get it through Amazon Prime so if it doesn't work you can return it for full refund like it did. Would love to hear what you guys on this forum recommend as well. Ultimate compound might be better according to Amazon's reviews, just too afraid to try it unless someone on here recommends it.
I have to agree with Kona Blue........I have all the "Griots Garage" polish and buffers etc and they work great....But a great all around polish compound to get out scratches and swirl marks is Meguiars Ultimate Compound
IF you have a good Random Orbital Buffer and IF you know how to use it, and IF you have the right pads for each of these products, you cannot beat the finish you will be left with.
Start with the Cutting Compound, and you will scare yourself, as you will be left with a very hazy surface. Go to the Swirl Mark Remover (and if the swirls on your paint are very shallow, you can also try starting with this), and finally the Ultrafina will bring your paint back to perfect............then of course, you are going to need to carefully wax or seal your paint.
Collinite 845 is very good for this.
Use only a very little bit of this on each panel, and use only fore and aft motions on horizontal surfaces, and up and down motions on vertical panels.....are you sorry you asked yet?
If you do enjoy this kind of thing, it truly is a Zen experience --- if all you can think is.......BOY! That's more work than I ever want to go to....take it to the detail expert, and cough up the $400 for a really professional job.
Kona is right. Ultimate Compound is great !!! I use it every 3-4 months & it keeps my car like new & I park outdoors. It also works to clean Head lights.
You would think you would ruin your finish. Follow directions and you see that it works wonders. This it what they use at final paint inspection at the factories. Sounds crazy. Ferraries, Bentlies, Porche, Vettes U name. Summit. com has 2000 to 6000 grit on bits with a foam pad U just peal off the backing and they adhere to the pad. I think I used 5000 grit. 5 or 6 in a box for $10.00 free shipping. I used water on my brand new car, than McGuiaers swirl remover. Just take your time read all the instructions. There U go U just saved a bunch of money!!
guard 5.0 has shiniest car on planet.
-I went to Autozone last week to pick up some rags, asked the guy working there what product did he think is best for final wax coating.
He said he uses Armoral on his cars paint, works great. I laughed real loud, he just stared.
I'm not kidding you. What your doing is refinishing the clear coat, as long as you don't over do it your fine. Go on line and order 5000 grit one sheet tear off a 2 inch square. In your trunk or door jamb spot only U can see try it. As long as it's shiny there (clear coated) Wet sand it just like the guys that wear the big boy pants! It took me many cars and years to learn these little tricks.
Sandpaper...Actually it's called Polishing Paper once it's over 3000 Grit. 5000 Grit is way too fine. I used 3000 Grit. You can buy 8"x10" sheets of it at any Jewelry Supply Store for about $1.00 per sheet. They use it to polish jewelry it's so fine. But I only resort to this if the Ultimate Compound didn't work because the scratches were too deep.
Have to agree with meguires. I like the small polisher that attaches to your drill too. I use 2000 grit to smooth out fills (stone chip hit with touch up paint). Then go to compound. Good info but if you're nervous to try it, start with the finest and work backwards. It'll take more time but might make you more comfortable with the process.
My suggestion is to go over to Adamsproducts.com and view the videos they have. Especially the ones on their polishing and sealing. I would also recommend that when washing your car follow the two bucket method.
It really works.
For light scratches and swirls I have always used Scratch X scratch remover with a microfiber cloth and elbow grease, it has always worked great for me.
You always want to use the least aggressive polish that you can get away with. Here's a list of Meguiar's products. Least agressive on the left and more aggressive as it moves to the right.
I had a couple light scratches on my rear bumper show up after my trip to California so I bought some turtle wax scratch remover. You can laugh at me if you want but it was $2.97 and guess what, it worked for being an inferior product to others mentioned. I used one side of the microfiber towel to apply compound and the other side with some elbow grease to wipe off.
I wouldn't go any courser than a polish. Different brands can call their product what they want but generally, cutting compound is more course than rubbing compound is more course than polishing compound. I believe scratch X is a polishing compound.
I've always had very good results with Scratch X, and even better when following up with Ultimate Polish.
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