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Old 04-12-2014, 11:13 PM   #36
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The aluminum driveshaft took .140 off my best time. Almost 1 1/2 tenths. Car weighed 3380 lbs. with 1/3 tank of fuel. Very happy.
Nice!
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Old 04-14-2014, 11:29 AM   #37
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Mine was about 25 lbs lighter than stock. Knocked off about .17-.18
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Old 04-14-2014, 03:28 PM   #38
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I have this as next on mod list AFTER suspension. The gas mileage and quicker run times all make sense and are good reasons to buy. I have a DD and am curious as to how much it helps with shifting. I have a manual and it still seems to "clunk" when shifting if you know what I mean. Is it true that this will tighten up everything for a smoother and more seamless shift?
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Old 04-14-2014, 07:55 PM   #39
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I knew cutting the rotating weight would help in several areas. That's basic physics. Most of all, it freed up some HP that got put to the wheels instead of being wasted trying to accelerate 20+ pounds of useless steel. My car (manual trans) now weighs 3380#s with 1/3rd tank of fuel. I was pretty excited with the .143 reduction in ET as this was my best pass ever compared to my previous best ever. So it's real. Also day temp was exactly the same and no other changes to the car. FWIW it was also my best 60'(2.047),330,660,1/8th and 1000' times. On stock tires. If you drag race, get an aluminum driveshaft. In hind sight, I had the traction control on and that is a huge mistake. A major cause of what's perceived as wheel hop. Never, drag race with the TC on. Leaving the line @ 2000, matting it on the last yellow. 2500 gets some spin. Have fun. Richard
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Old 04-14-2014, 10:50 PM   #40
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I have this as next on mod list AFTER suspension. The gas mileage and quicker run times all make sense and are good reasons to buy. I have a DD and am curious as to how much it helps with shifting. I have a manual and it still seems to "clunk" when shifting if you know what I mean. Is it true that this will tighten up everything for a smoother and more seamless shift?
My car is a DD and my driveshaft made a world of difference. The clunking and the rubber necking when accelerating and decelerating is gone. I have 2.73 gears and the in town driving feels alot better and it revs quicker. My wife drove it the other day and asked me what did I do to the car, it easier to take off and feels quicker. I've had it on my car for 3000 miles so far, no regrets. Axle exchange from american muscle.
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Old 04-15-2014, 07:37 AM   #41
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My car is a DD and my driveshaft made a world of difference. The clunking and the rubber necking when accelerating and decelerating is gone. I have 2.73 gears and the in town driving feels alot better and it revs quicker. My wife drove it the other day and asked me what did I do to the car, it easier to take off and feels quicker. I've had it on my car for 3000 miles so far, no regrets. Axle exchange from american muscle.
You sold me... added to me build list this am! thing is that build list gets bigger the more I buy?!?! lol. TY
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Old 04-15-2014, 08:11 AM   #42
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Dynotech or the driveshaft shop. Leave the axle exchange at AM.

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Old 04-15-2014, 08:16 AM   #43
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You sold me... added to me build list this am! thing is that build list gets bigger the more I buy?!?! lol. TY
Shaftmasters one piece is great, direct bolt in and goes from 39lbs to 16 lbs.

If the clunk still exists, then try replacing/upgrading some bushing/suspension parts in the drivetrain but the clunk should practically disappear
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Old 04-15-2014, 09:10 AM   #44
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Coyote was manual right?

Because you would dyno in 4th on the auto. 5th on the manual.
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Old 04-15-2014, 09:22 AM   #45
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Yes they were manual. I know what your suppose to dyno in. The almighty bama however does not.

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Old 04-15-2014, 09:26 AM   #46
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Yes they were manual. I know what your suppose to dyno in. The almighty bama however does not.

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Tuners justassume 4th since it was 4th pre MT.
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Old 04-15-2014, 10:53 AM   #47
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Old 04-15-2014, 02:50 PM   #48
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Dynotech or the driveshaft shop. Leave the axle exchange at AM.

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Just curious but what is wrong with the axle exchange one piece aluminum driveshaft? During my research I have yet to come across any reported axle exchange aluminium driveshafts failing at high speeds.
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Old 04-15-2014, 03:03 PM   #49
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Just curious but what is wrong with the axle exchange one piece aluminum driveshaft? During my research I have yet to come across any reported axle exchange aluminium driveshafts failing at high speeds.
They don't fail, but have a lot of problems with vibration. Most of those people swaped out for a dynotech or one from the driveshaft shop. Plus the DSS and dynotech spin them to 8000 while balancing

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Old 04-15-2014, 03:39 PM   #50
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ALUMINUM SHAFT

This is next on my List. Steeda has a "Lightweight Kit", which includes this Driveshaft. I'm going to include these pieces as well as a Lightweight Radiator.
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Old 04-15-2014, 03:39 PM   #51
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They are making carbon fiber shafts now . I seen a show where it withstood more torque than a alluminun shaft . Wish I could remember the show
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Old 04-15-2014, 03:43 PM   #52
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Found it on YouTube . It's carbon fiber vs steel
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Old 04-15-2014, 03:51 PM   #53
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Found it on YouTube . A steel shaft made it to 1300 NM of torque and a carbon fiber shaft made it to 4700 nm of torque
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Old 04-15-2014, 05:48 PM   #54
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They don't fail, but have a lot of problems with vibration. Most of those people swaped out for a dynotech or one from the driveshaft shop. Plus the DSS and dynotech spin them to 8000 while balancing

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I got ya! I wonder if the vibration is with high HP cars. I can't say I have experienced vibration issues on my pony with my axle exchange one piece or perhaps I'm just the lucky ones. Lol
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Old 04-15-2014, 06:17 PM   #55
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I got ya! I wonder if the vibration is with high HP cars. I can't say I have experienced vibration issues on my pony with my axle exchange one piece or perhaps I'm just the lucky ones. Lol
Its at higher RPM's. More than likely its a hit or miss, like the mt-82

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Old 04-15-2014, 08:26 PM   #56
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Its at higher RPM's. More than likely its a hit or miss, like the mt-82

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Absolutely must be a hit or miss because at 100 mph plus she is smooth a can be. Even at 135 mph she is smooth as can be with no vibration noise. Glad I got a good one!
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Old 04-15-2014, 08:59 PM   #57
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Absolutely must be a hit or miss because at 100 mph plus she is smooth a can be. Even at 135 mph she is smooth as can be with no vibration noise. Glad I got a good one!
+1 no issues; can't say much about anything over 113mph
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Old 04-16-2014, 09:59 AM   #58
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Vibration is isually a sign of other issues yet to be found. Usually very simple issues.
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Old 05-05-2014, 07:43 AM   #59
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FWIW, if I haven't mentioned this, my Aluminum Driveshaft is from Shaftmasters. A full service shop in Michigan. Don has all the parts you'll need. Some years have a 3 1/2 bolt space and some have a 4 1/4. Both Spicer joints are available. Cheers
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Old 05-09-2014, 03:10 AM   #60
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defiantly something to do
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Old 05-09-2014, 09:05 AM   #61
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Friends, I'll go out on a limb here and state that most of us would agree that a tuner is probably the best first investment for upgrading your cars current and future performance. That said, nothing else will increase the useable horsepower of you Mustang better per dollar spent than the aluminum driveshaft. No exhaust, CAI or other ? will free up net horsepower better than the Aluminum driveshaft. According to tests by Shaftmasters your looking at close to +15HP that now goes to the wheels. Then consider the added fuel mileage and it's win, win. Spend wisely.
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Old 05-09-2014, 09:07 AM   #62
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I promise you that your not going to free up 15 HP with a driveshaft.

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Old 05-09-2014, 09:44 AM   #63
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I promise you that your not going to free up 15 HP with a driveshaft.

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There is enough dynos out there to show that it is a noticeable gain.

39lbs vs 16lbs and it would be closer to 10. Most dyno I have seen were 8-9 WHP over the band but relatively unchanged peak.

It helped me knock about .15 off my 1/4
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Old 05-09-2014, 10:00 AM   #64
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I have a question for people with the One Piece DS what is the highest MPH you have gotten it up to on a 3.7
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Old 05-09-2014, 10:01 AM   #65
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There is enough dynos out there to show that it is a noticeable gain.

39lbs vs 16lbs and it would be closer to 10. Most dyno I have seen were 8-9 WHP over the band but relatively unchanged peak.

It helped me knock about .15 off my 1/4
I know its a gain I have one. Not saying its not a gain at all. Just saying, its not going to free up 15hp. Some of the dynos people's cars on this forum go on is ridiculous. Its hilarious actually.

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Old 05-09-2014, 10:08 AM   #66
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I know its a gain I have one. Not saying its not a gain at all. Just saying, its not going to free up 15hp. Some of the dynos people's cars on this forum go on is ridiculous. Its hilarious actually.

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Honestly he is right, I went to a car show locally and they had this dyno that was pulled in on a trailer and dropped on the ground with this ****ty fan in front of it. Not saying the dyno was complete ish and very inaccurate but I have seen some really nice dyno shops and those synod put it to shame lol
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