Has anyone made the change to the one piece aluminum driveshaft and ran the quarter mile for a comparison? Taking off 20lbs. of rotating weight has to have a positive effect. Just wondering what to expect.
Many people have and enjoy them also. They are good for a couple tenths, but one of the biggest things you notice or seem to notice is that's your cars rpms seem to increase faster. It's like the engine doesn't have to work as hard.
Less rotating mass has that effect in acceleration. I was just wondering if anyone has track times to verify the tenth or so I often see claimed. The stock driveshaft is one heavy, long, two piece, vibration prone, piece of junk. JMO. I'll have my shaft in next month. Wouldn't put drag radials on without it.
Well, since you're getting an aluminium driveshaft, keep your stocker and the next time that you go to the strip, bring everything that you need to swap driveshafts and do a side by side comparison.
I think everyone will be interested in the results.
Like ZL said, I also think that you will only see a couple of tenths... At best.
Lol.
I know it! That's why I said "at best".
I honestly don't think he'll see anything near that but I hope he does a comparison, on the same day, so we can see what he finds.
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Lol.
I know it! That's why I said "at best".
I honestly don't think he'll see anything near that but I hope he does a comparison, on the same day, so we can see what he finds.
Sent by my Carrier Pigeon using the Mustang Evolution mobile app
Every day is different. The only way to get a fair evaluation is to test on the same day. The gain will be ever so slight. And if you use DR's, you can throw your old numbers out the window.
All I need to see is a better 60' and the rest is gravy. I know it's there, I just wondered if anyone had documented the improvements. I don't expect it to be more than a tenth overall. It will be safer and allow me to use the DR tires and shift sooner. That will be more than tenth for sure. As usual, those of us that race at the track are a minority. Just thought I'd ask.
Any time weight can be removed it is a good thing. Removing rotating weight is even better. An one piece aluminum driveshaft is in my future. Just trying to decide on the manufacturer.
Just my 2 cents , put one in my old Mach 1 , witch I took to the track a bit , never noticed ANY difference in ET's , as a matter of fact my best all time ET was with the old shaft
so yes it gets rid of some rotating mass but IMO its not enough to do anything
Just an FYI. 10 lbs. of rotating mass is like 100 lbs. of static weight. Car should pick up 8-10 hundredths off the ET. I'll post on this in the spring.
I'll be installing the am driveshaft this spring. But I should see a lot of gains I hope over last season just spun all the way through 3 rd. installed uca and lca 70/30 struts mt street et. Under drive pulleys. So it will be hard to know what the biggest gain was.
Are the aluminum drive shafts are simple bolt in replacement. In other words take the stock out and bolt the aluminum in its place, no mods? Who has the best price? Also why do they put a 2 piece in from the factory?
Because an aluminium driveshaft costs more money so Ford put in a less quality two piece to save money. Also, Ford figures you don't need a better driveshaft because no need to drive 140 plusmph so the two piece works just fine at their speed limiter of 113 mph.
Needles too say I didn't feel the same as Ford did so I have a one piece aluminium driveshaft. After all we have a bad ass 305 HP little beast and it needs to be broken free of its restrictions. Booooooo yaaaaaaa
Not mass produced, they make sections that with different combos fit many many vehicles. That is why they use 2 piece drive shaft and how it's cheaper.
I didn't want to use the stock two piece driveshaft with drag radials. The Hoosier drag radial is 26" so my final rear axel ratio will be 3.75 and I'll be shifting sooner between gears and hit a higher RPM at the stripe. The one piece Aluminum shaft is stronger and safer, both of which I value a lot. As a new combination, I know this deal will run quicker but, not faster than 102mph. Going to be fun.
Since the new aluminum driveshaft was installed, I can definitely see a fuel mileage improvement, it rpms quicker and the well designed drivetrain vibration is now minimalized. To the track in 4-5 weeks.
I have this as next on mod list AFTER suspension. The gas mileage and quicker run times all make sense and are good reasons to buy. I have a DD and am curious as to how much it helps with shifting. I have a manual and it still seems to "clunk" when shifting if you know what I mean. Is it true that this will tighten up everything for a smoother and more seamless shift?
My car is a DD and my driveshaft made a world of difference. The clunking and the rubber necking when accelerating and decelerating is gone. I have 2.73 gears and the in town driving feels alot better and it revs quicker. My wife drove it the other day and asked me what did I do to the car, it easier to take off and feels quicker. I've had it on my car for 3000 miles so far, no regrets. Axle exchange from american muscle.
I knew cutting the rotating weight would help in several areas. That's basic physics. Most of all, it freed up some HP that got put to the wheels instead of being wasted trying to accelerate 20+ pounds of useless steel. My car (manual trans) now weighs 3380#s with 1/3rd tank of fuel. I was pretty excited with the .143 reduction in ET as this was my best pass ever compared to my previous best ever. So it's real. Also day temp was exactly the same and no other changes to the car. FWIW it was also my best 60'(2.047),330,660,1/8th and 1000' times. On stock tires. If you drag race, get an aluminum driveshaft. In hind sight, I had the traction control on and that is a huge mistake. A major cause of what's perceived as wheel hop. Never, drag race with the TC on. Leaving the line @ 2000, matting it on the last yellow. 2500 gets some spin. Have fun. Richard
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