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Old 12-07-2014, 10:28 AM   #1
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Mach 1 termi swap?

So I recently bought a mach 1 a month or 2 ago and I think i got the "hunger for power" disease pretty quick. My mach right now has long tube headers and an off road pipe exhaust so not much more power from stock. I was thinking about making it fully bolt on or getting a procharger but then I visited the performance shop over here and the guy there said it would be a lot cheaper to change the engine internals to the 03-04 cobra's. What would I need to change and what do you recommend? Located in the temple Killeen, TX area. Sorry if there's a post about this already I couldn't find one.

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Old 12-07-2014, 10:31 AM   #2
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Ps shes beautiful

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Old 12-07-2014, 10:52 AM   #3
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Mach 1 termi swap?

Hello Taylor,

I believe a Procharger would be the best regards money wise/power wise for your situation.

However, Before you actually commit to that big step, I would do some suspension work, weight reduction, and Ofcourse get Full-Bolt ons first.

What's power with no traction, am I right?

Hopefully you see where I'm coming from.

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Old 12-07-2014, 01:40 PM   #4
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Originally Posted by ian taylor View Post
So I recently bought a mach 1 a month or 2 ago and I think i got the "hunger for power" disease pretty quick. My mach right now has long tube headers and an off road pipe exhaust so not much more power from stock. I was thinking about making it fully bolt on or getting a procharger but then I visited the performance shop over here and the guy there said it would be a lot cheaper to change the engine internals to the 03-04 cobra's. What would I need to change and what do you recommend? Located in the temple Killeen, TX area. Sorry if there's a post about this already I couldn't find one.

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What kind of power are you looking to put down? If you change out the internals all that gains you is the ability to out more power, at that point you're gonna still need to boost it or run a shot of nitrous
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Old 12-08-2014, 12:12 AM   #5
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What kind of power are you looking to put down? If you change out the internals all that gains you is the ability to out more power, at that point you're gonna still need to boost it or run a shot of nitrous
450 to 500 hp is the max for stock mach 1 motor is only about 480 so still I would be better off doing that first?

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Old 12-08-2014, 12:20 AM   #6
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I thought it was closer to 450. But at this point it's all about how you want to go about it. A built motor is gonna be great for later on when you boost it, but at the same time you won't get much fun out of it when it's making the same power as before. I'm a fan of building a motor on the side while boosting the factory motor, but that's just me.
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Old 12-08-2014, 01:38 AM   #7
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Hello Taylor,

I believe a Procharger would be the best regards money wise/power wise for your situation.

However, Before you actually commit to that big step, I would do some suspension work, weight reduction, and Ofcourse get Full-Bolt ons first.

What's power with no traction, am I right?

Hopefully you see where I'm coming from.

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Old 12-17-2014, 09:36 PM   #8
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You want more power out of the car?

-Finish your exhaust with a catback of your choice
-4.30 rear gears (you have a .62 overdrive, 4.30s are fine with the 02-04 cars on the highway)
-Subframe connectors
-MGW shifter
-Max Motorsports Lower Control Arms
-Max Motorsports CC plates
-Springs/Shocks/Struts
-Wheels and tires
-MPT Tune

Car will feel like a completely different animal with this setup and the 4.30s will have you coming out of the hole like gangbusters. Mach has a 7k redline so you wont' run out of gear so fast like a 2V will with that steep of a gear and with the .62 overdrive you should still have an acceptable RPM on the highway in 5th.

As was already mentioned, power is nothing without being able to put it down. I've seen plenty of "big power" cars get smoked by something making way less power but set up better.

Oh, also, if you want to shift at 7k (and shift well in general with the 3650), you need to IMMEDIATELY go out and get new trans fluid and do a drain/fill. The 3650 equipped cars came overfilled from the factory and that overfill caused all sorts of issues. If your trans fluid has never been changed, or even if it has, it could very well be the factory fill of 3.8 quarts. The correct Ford revised fill is 3.2 quarts. Fluid of choice is Pennzoil Synchromesh which you can get at any Autozone. Its in a yellow bottle and about $8 per.
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Old 12-17-2014, 09:47 PM   #9
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You want more power out of the car?

-Finish your exhaust with a catback of your choice
-4.30 rear gears (you have a .62 overdrive, 4.30s are fine with the 02-04 cars on the highway)
-Subframe connectors
-MGW shifter
-Max Motorsports Lower Control Arms
-Max Motorsports CC plates
-Springs/Shocks/Struts
-Wheels and tires
-MPT Tune

Car will feel like a completely different animal with this setup and the 4.30s will have you coming out of the hole like gangbusters. Mach has a 7k redline so you wont' run out of gear so fast like a 2V will with that steep of a gear and with the .62 overdrive you should still have an acceptable RPM on the highway in 5th.

As was already mentioned, power is nothing without being able to put it down. I've seen plenty of "big power" cars get smoked by something making way less power but set up better.

Oh, also, if you want to shift at 7k (and shift well in general with the 3650), you need to IMMEDIATELY go out and get new trans fluid and do a drain/fill. The 3650 equipped cars came overfilled from the factory and that overfill caused all sorts of issues. If your trans fluid has never been changed, or even if it has, it could very well be the factory fill of 3.8 quarts. The correct Ford revised fill is 3.2 quarts. Fluid of choice is Pennzoil Synchromesh which you can get at any Autozone. Its in a yellow bottle and about $8 per.
Thanks! I've been thinking about the exhaust but I just love the roar of the stock tailpipe it's the perfect tone and not too loud,the xpipe is a good combo. Would the overflow transmission fluid be the cause of the spongey clutch past 5k rpm? I've never redlined or gone past 5500 except when I spin my wheels but I shift after they stop spinning (that's only a little passed it)

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Old 12-17-2014, 09:49 PM   #10
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The clutch should not change feel at all through any RPM. The trans fluid has nothing at all to do with the clutch.
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Old 12-17-2014, 09:49 PM   #11
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Also, would that stop the clutch cable from sticking, this is my first manual car and sometimes when I release the clutch I hear a click noise I can feel it in the clutch

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Old 12-17-2014, 09:50 PM   #12
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Alright thanks for your help!



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Old 12-17-2014, 09:55 PM   #13
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Sounds like someone replaced the OEM clutch cable at some point or the original one is on the way out. Now is a good time to buy the Max Motorsports cable/quadrant/adjuster setup. Its $160 for all 3 pieces IIRC.

If you decide to just replace the cable, be warned. ONLY buy an OEM cable or a Max Motorsports (same maker as OEM) cable. Parts store cables and cheap budget cables are inferior, they will hang up and they fail often. I'd replace the factory plastic quadrant though like I said. The MM one is metal and everyone should have a firewall adjuster IMO.
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Old 12-17-2014, 10:03 PM   #14
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Sounds like someone replaced the OEM clutch cable at some point or the original one is on the way out. Now is a good time to buy the Max Motorsports cable/quadrant/adjuster setup. Its $160 for all 3 pieces IIRC.

If you decide to just replace the cable, be warned. ONLY buy an OEM cable or a Max Motorsports (same maker as OEM) cable. Parts store cables and cheap budget cables are inferior, they will hang up and they fail often. I'd replace the factory plastic quadrant though like I said. The MM one is metal and everyone should have a firewall adjuster IMO.
Could the oem have lasted this long? My car just hit 79000 miles today :thumbdown: what about the clutch? Should it have been replaced already also?

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Old 12-17-2014, 10:07 PM   #15
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Depends on how it was driven. Driven well both should last over 100k but if the previous owner was an idiot, who knows. Could have also had some previous owner who thought they were upgrading with a "high performance" cable or something.

But if the clutch feels normal at idle and at low RPM are you for sure it changes in feel above 5500 rpm?

Honestly I'd do a new cable/quadrant/adjuster first if I was having clutch feel issues and then go from there. Even if it doesn't fix it, its all good preventative maintenance.
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Old 12-17-2014, 10:15 PM   #16
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That's true, I'll get it checked out



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Old 12-25-2014, 10:40 PM   #17
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Best thing to do is a full terms swap lol


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Old 12-25-2014, 10:43 PM   #18
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Ya I looked around for an engine but couldn't find one less than $8000 lol

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---------- Post added at 04:43 AM ---------- Previous post was at 04:42 AM ----------

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Best thing to do is a full terms swap lol


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Old 12-26-2014, 12:11 AM   #19
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Gotta pay to play. Any built motor is going to cost about that or more.
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Old 12-26-2014, 12:20 AM   #20
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Gotta pay to play. Any built motor is going to cost about that or more.
My engine is only at 77k miles and I have a friend who bought a complete terminator engine and trans for 6000 I'm hoping I'll find someone as generous for parts

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Old 12-26-2014, 11:38 AM   #21
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Best bet if you want to do a termi swap is to find a wrecked donor. They used to go for that price but not sure now.
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Old 12-26-2014, 12:25 PM   #22
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Best bet if you want to do a termi swap is to find a wrecked donor. They used to go for that price but not sure now.
Ok thanks for the tip, I'll keep looking

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Old 01-13-2015, 11:48 AM   #23
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Don't trash a Mach 1 by doing a Terminator engine swap. Just go buy a Terminator. It would be much better on your wallet too. IMO, being a Mach 1 is special and worth more having an OEM engine. Beside, a Mach 1 that isn't using the shaker hood is just ridiculous! I think Procharger makes a kit for the Mach that uses the shaker system, but it's expensive. You can only boost those aluminum blocks so far. That's why I'd just trade up for a Cobra if I needed that much more power.
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Old 01-13-2015, 03:21 PM   #24
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You can put the shaker on top of the m112 and it's a bolt in affair. Very common and cheap and easy.

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Old 01-13-2015, 04:05 PM   #25
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I did a Terminator swap on my Mach 1 many years ago and used a Whipple instead of the Eaton. Oh and I was the first. My results made it into a magazine.

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Old 01-13-2015, 04:14 PM   #26
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Not bad, my old 03 cobra made right at 600 with 18 psi with a 2.3l whipple. On 93

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Old 01-13-2015, 04:39 PM   #27
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My 2.3 Whipple made 718 rwhp/735 rwtq @ 25.5 lbs. of boost on 93 octane mixed with a lot of Torco. But it had a built motor with 9.1:1 compression.
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Old 01-13-2015, 04:45 PM   #28
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My 2.3 Whipple made 718 rwhp/735 rwtq @ 25.5 lbs. of boost on 93 octane mixed with a lot of Torco. But it had a built motor with 9.1:1 compression.

Oh yea I remember you said before that it got to a power level where it was almost a pain to have. The torco makes sense.


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Old 01-13-2015, 05:00 PM   #29
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Old 01-13-2015, 05:11 PM   #30
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Oh yea I remember you said before that it got to a power level where it was almost a pain to have. The torco makes sense.
It was to much for the street.



Very nice Rap. The 03-04 Cobras still hold up extremely well.
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Old 01-13-2015, 05:18 PM   #31
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I remember seeing yours in the magazine back when they put it out. It was a sick car.

My old one is still running strong, I sold it to my uncle, still the same except he put 20's on it for some odd *** reason.

Latest pic of it.

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Old 01-13-2015, 05:23 PM   #32
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It was to much for the street.



Very nice Rap. The 03-04 Cobras still hold up extremely well.
Did you tune it yourself Grabber?

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Old 01-13-2015, 05:58 PM   #33
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I remember seeing yours in the magazine back when they put it out. It was a sick car.

My old one is still running strong, I sold it to my uncle, still the same except he put 20's on it for some odd *** reason.

Latest pic of it.

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I spy R888s


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Old 01-13-2015, 06:00 PM   #34
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I spy R888s


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That would be them lol

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Old 01-13-2015, 07:05 PM   #35
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Did you tune it yourself Grabber?
No I didn't. A good friend of mine did.
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