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Old 05-07-2016, 07:03 PM   #106
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Regardless of numbers, the S197s solid axle puts down power better than the S550s independent setup. This is true at least with relatively stock Mustangs.
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Old 05-08-2016, 12:17 AM   #107
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TRMN8ER View Post
Regardless of numbers, the S197s solid axle puts down power better than the S550s independent setup. This is true at least with relatively stock Mustangs.
My 03 Terminator with IRS hooks a lot better than my old 14TrakPak....and it's bone stock where my 14's rear suspension was totally replaced with aftermarket parts.
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Old 05-08-2016, 06:07 AM   #108
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I gotta say, my 98 GT with only lowering springs launched smoother than my 15... kinda disappointing when you pay 40k but my 15 handles a million times better. If I wanted a lightweight drag car, I would go back to the 98 GT

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Old 05-08-2016, 08:59 AM   #109
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I'd like to get an '03 SVT Cobra. That would be a fun car to tinker with.
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Old 05-08-2016, 12:23 PM   #110
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Regardless of numbers, the S197s solid axle puts down power better than the S550s independent setup. This is true at least with relatively stock Mustangs.


Seems to give it to the 197 if both bone stock.
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Old 05-09-2016, 07:20 PM   #111
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Was out with the SS this past weekend. Parked it next to "the clone". Can't wait to get some drag slips for the clone on the board and then start tearing into it.

Just waiting on the registration from the Sheehy Ford folks so I can drive it to the strip and run it. I called Friday to see when I should expect to get my registration....haven't heard anything from them. Ridiculous!
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Old 05-10-2016, 04:50 AM   #112
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Looking good buddy!

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Old 05-10-2016, 06:57 AM   #113
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Work hard and save money.


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Old 05-10-2016, 07:18 AM   #114
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^^^^^ This

I've been very fortunate with life (and am grateful for that). I graduated from high school at age 16, had my MBA by 22, and owned my business by 35. I'm married to my high school sweetheart and we have a great family with her, my daughter, a dog and a cat. I still have the first dollar I ever saved when I started my first job.

Now, with all that said...I run/own an investment firm and have watched a number of clients pass away over the last few years from illness (brain cancer, heart attacks, ALS). I'm on the edge of 50 now. Maybe it's a little mid life crisis, but it's more likely that my wife and I have decided to open the wallet a little. My wife and I set a budget about 3 years ago. She got a new kitchen and a number of upgrades to the house and a couple vacations (with me of course... ) I got a new garage (almost completed) and a chance to get back to my teenage years with a couple of muscle cars. Admittedly we have spent a lot of money over the last 3 years but we are fortunate to be able to do it and I don't take that fact for granted.

I found this site quite by accident and have been really impressed by the quality of people on it. I figure by posting all this, others can enjoy the fun I'm having. Likewise, I will enjoy the help of others as I'm certain I'm going to need to ask questions as I build the clone.

I don't like boasting, and sometimes I feel like I may be so there are a number of posts I've deleted after typing them because I've felt like I might be overdoing the posts. But, I'd like to share the learning about the Shelby, and what goes into building one, with others who may learn from what I'm doing or may simply be entertained by reading the trials and tribulations and excitement of owning a Super Snake and building one.
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Old 05-10-2016, 07:52 AM   #115
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^ you seem very genuine and down to earth individual. I know quite of few ppl friends and family that money changed them. They think they're better than others cause they have money. Walk around with Gucci shoes pinky rings manicures and cigars sticking out of their mouths. I on the other hand walk around with jeans and a t shirt. I don't like flashy and never have.


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Old 05-10-2016, 08:11 AM   #116
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Old 05-10-2016, 08:50 AM   #117
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As far as I'm concerned, boast away! I'm enjoying your dream like you are! I may not be driving a super snake, but this thread keeps me pushing forward.

My girl just became a CPA within the last year, so we're working toward similar goals.

I'm enjoying everything being posted up, and I'm happy to hear you worked for it. It helps to know that you're not on here to impress a bunch of people you don't know personally lol that'd be silly. Enjoy every bit of the success and fun of building/buying two new mustangs, you can't take the money to the grave with you... and I doubt your family will be struggling when you pass as well.

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Old 05-10-2016, 11:04 AM   #118
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Sweet man, Those are both nice cars! Cant wait to see the progress on the clone!
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Old 05-20-2016, 10:07 PM   #119
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Quote:
Originally Posted by medwards View Post
I intend this thread to be a complete documentation of the building of a 2015 Shelby Super Snake clone (at least as close as I can come to it being a clone). The intention is to have a car as similar to my 2015 Shelby Super Snake as I can build. I plan on doing the entire build myself and then running this car both on road courses and drag strips.

I expect this to be a fairly long project in terms of time since there is a lot to do to the base car to convert it to a clone. Please be patient with me.

Attached is the list of parts. I'll be placing orders in the coming weeks or so.
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Yup, it's covered in detail on the other thread. I can repeat. Basically I bought the SS to have fun, but also to keep the miles off it to a degree. After driving it I had so much fun that there is no way I'll keep the miles off it. And after seeing how capable it was, I really want to do some real road course and dragway racing. So...I figured why not build one for about $50k less and beat the snot out of that one
What I think you really like is "the chase". Shopping, buying & building the car. (and showing off the process while you're at it) Not knocking you, as that's one of the things I love to do. I buy a new car almost every 12 months, rotating between my work truck, my wife's SUV and my toy car. (keeping 3 vehicles new)

Not trying to thread crap, but when you first started talking about buying the SS, etc... everyone was like why not just throw a SC on your mustang and a FRRP handling pack & call it a day. It would give you 90% of the bang for 90% less buck. And then you wouldn't mind driving your car as its just a $40k car + $10k in upgrades max.

Oh well, this will be interesting to see.
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Old 05-30-2016, 12:19 AM   #120
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Shift Light Install

I bought a Raptor Shift Light with dual functions (launch RPM and shift RPM) and installed in a 2015 Mustang GT Premium. Here are the steps. But, let me warn you. You are going to be cutting into the car's wiring harness that connects to the primary computer in the car. If you are not 100% certain of your electrical abilities, this is not a job for you.

Although this was done on the Super Snake, it will be part of the Clone build so I'm putting it in this thread.

1. I mounted my light on an auxiliary gauge pod on my dash, so I had to remove the dash panel. This was accomplished by removing the small panel near the passenger side door by simply tugging at it. Then the panel across the dash (contains the vents) was removed in a similar manner of gently tugging on it. The clips that hold it in may break as you do this so you may need to pick up a few new ones at the dealership. They are very cheap (like 25 cents each).

2. I routed the lights wires through the firewall using the grommet in the firewall located near the passenger's feet, just to the left of the fuse panel. In order to access this from the inside, simply pull back the rug. To access this from the outside you need to remove the passenger side front wheel and the inner fender splash shield (the big plastic part inside the fender well). The protector is easily removed by removing the plastic clips holding it in place. Simply remove the middle pin with a small screwdriver. Then the larger part of the clip comes right out. Installation is simply the reverse procedure (big part in first, then insert the center pin).

3. I used wire ties and wire loom to run the wire along the frame. I then simply ran it up into the front passenger side of the engine compartment and wired it into the PCM 95 count pin connector (the top plug on the PCM). The PCM is easily recognized as it sits below a large black box mounted in front of the passenger side strut tower and it has the largest weather proof plugs attached to it.

4. You should have your battery disconnected at this point. If you don't you need to disconnect it now. You will be cutting into the PCM wiring harness and you can really cause significant damage if you short a wire. By disconnecting your battery you will prevent this from occuring. I always remove the negative cable. Google removing a battery and you will learn why.

5. I strongly recommend getting help from a dealer if your car is anything other than a 2015 or 2016 Mustang GT before going any further. My descriptions below only relate to the PCM wiring of a 2015 or 2016 Mustang GT.

6. To make life easy, you will want to cut the wire tie that holds the connector's large wire loom to the frame and then remove the protective rear cover on the connector (just pry lighly with a small screwdriver to remove the cover protecting the wires on the back of the connector). Then you will want to remove the electrical tape holding the wires tight up near the connector itself. You want a fair amount of wire showing so you can cut, connect, and reconnect the wires to the light and back to the connector.

7. You are going to cut into three wires in the PCM. #93, #18, #26. #93 is your cylinder 1 coil positive wire. This gets connected to the green wire on the light. #18 is a switched power wire and gets connected to the red wire from the light. #26 is the OSS (output speed shaft senor) and gets connected to the white wire from the light (the light works with either a VSS or OSS sensor although the manufacturer only mentions a VSS). The brown wire dead ends (just tape it off). This is for a motorcycle airshifter and doesn't apply with this install.

8. #93 is white wire with violet stripe. #18 is a blue wire. #26 is a yellow wire with orange stripe.

9. Make sure these connections are weather proof. This can be accomplished by soldering the wires and covering with shrink tube, or by using solderless connectors and dielectric grease, or by using a weather proof automotive connector. DO NOT simply twist the wires together and put electric tape on them. I also strongly recommend AGAINST using those connectors that partially cut into the wire and allow you to splice another wire. You will regret those methods some day in the future after corrosion has taken its toll. Remember, you are modifying wires going to your PCM (power control module). This is the computer that controls much of the functioning of your car.

10. Be sure to put an inline fuse between the light and the #18 pin. I used a 1 amp fuse and inline holder.

11. I then connected the black ground wire to the ground located on the passenger side strut tower.

12. After I installed everything, I initially left the fuse holder empty. I wanted to reconnect the battery and start the car without any power going to the shift light just to be sure I didn't get any warning lights or codes or odd behavior from the car. After being satisfied that the car was functioning properly I turned it off and installed the fuse. Then I started it and went through the programming of the shift light.

13. I would recommend putting your key fob far away from your car before you reconnect your battery. The wireless network in the car recognizes the key fob and turns on automatically some of the cars electrical system. You may get some sparks when reconnecting the ground wire otherwise.

That's about it. It should take you a good 2 to 3 hours for this project as snaking the wires can be a pain and creating good weather tight connections is a tedious job.
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Old 05-30-2016, 07:02 AM   #121
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Not trying to thread crap, but when you first started talking about buying the SS, etc... everyone was like why not just throw a SC on your mustang and a FRRP handling pack & call it a day. It would give you 90% of the bang for 90% less buck. And then you wouldn't mind driving your car as its just a $40k car + $10k in upgrades max. Oh well, this will be interesting to see.
Long reply coming

I bought the SS for two reasons...1) I didn't have the time to build it, 2) It's pretty cool owning a Shelby SS that is also a 50th Anniversary car (so I have to admit I do like showing it off and getting my ego stroked a bit...who wouldn't). I didn't (and still don't) have the time to build the car in any reasonable period of time. I bought the second car about 1.5 months ago and have only had the time to go to the drags twice. I haven't had anytime to do any mods. Yet, during that same time I've put 1500 miles on the Shelby including dragging it, going to a forum rally, and showing it at a car show. I did finally put the shift light in it and I'm buying a set of drag radials/tires. Second reason was the cool factor. I've been called out by a bunch of Hellcats and am going to drag it again in a little over a week. I am making a bunch of new acquaintances because of what the car is.

I expect the Clone will be finished some time by the end of the summer 2017. Hopefully, by the end of this summer I will have the gears, driveshaft/half shafts, wrinkle slicks, and shift light in the Clone. That will hopefully allow me to move the car towards 13 seconds (obviously the gears and tires are improving the time, and the rest supports that).

So, if I didn't have the Shelby I wouldn't be having anywhere near the fun I've had so far this summer and will have. Finally, that Clone is going to cost slightly over $60,000 when it's done. The SC alone is $9,500. IMHO installing just a SC and Ford Racing suspension package would have created problems for me (this is my opinion...not knocking people that have done what you suggested). I would have been breaking drivetrain parts, wouldn't be hooking up, could possibly have cooling issues, and may not have had enough fuel delivery. So, driveshafts, half shafts, rims/drag tires, cooling fans/radiator, and new fuel injectors would have to be part of the build. That's a lot of money, and there's a spreadsheet at the beginning of this post detailing those costs.

I realize what I'm doing is over the top. I likely won't own both of these cars in 10 years. One will have been sold. If the Shelby goes up in price, then it'll be sold (I do have the lowest Shelby CSM # 50 Anniversary numbered car and that may be worth a premium to the right buyer if they want that combination of SS and 50th anniversary car). If it doesn't go up then I'll realize it's not such a special car and then I'll sell the clone and drive the Shelby a lot more (probably take a bath but have had a lot of fun with it and made some awesome memories).
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Old 05-30-2016, 08:39 AM   #122
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You can't put a price on those memories or the smiles and laughs...

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Old 05-30-2016, 08:46 AM   #123
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You can't put a price on those memories or the smiles and laughs...

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Yes u can.....priceless.


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Old 05-30-2016, 05:06 PM   #124
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I ran the car today after the rain stopped to check out the shift light. I LOVE IT. Very easy to program and very bright. A simple product that does exactly what it's supposed to do. 2 up.
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Old 05-31-2016, 04:12 PM   #125
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Now.....if I can just find a place to put one I'd put one on mine also!
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Old 05-31-2016, 06:10 PM   #126
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Now.....if I can just find a place to put one I'd put one on mine also!
hahaha...that looks like a Cadillac ATS steering compartment...ummm...and an automatic right...hahahaha...no need for a light on that if you've got the right tune and converter . I saw one of those running at NE Dragway pulling low 12's. He took off pretty slow but damn did that thing build speed after about 300 feet. I saw the car later, it was supercharged. Not sure how he got it so it built speed so fast towards the middle of the run, but he was pretty quick for a big ole sedan!
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Old 05-31-2016, 06:11 PM   #127
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ooops...maybe I spoke too soon...is that a clutch pedal peeking out to the lower left of the steering wheel? Perhaps you could use a light
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Old 05-31-2016, 06:36 PM   #128
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Yes, there is a clutch and it's attached to a Tremec 6spd....it's an ATS-V.
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Old 05-31-2016, 07:03 PM   #129
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Twin turbo. Very nice. Fast car.
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Old 05-31-2016, 08:29 PM   #130
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It's kind of "Baby Vette", Mag-ride, independent suspension all around, Brembo's and very comfortable plus I can take 4 people with room to spare.
Fast............that's kind of an overstated word....with only 464HP it's quick although I don't consider it "fast".....It doesn't weigh any more than my 14 TrakPak.
It's a nice 4 door sedan.......with a 6spd.
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Old 06-01-2016, 07:27 AM   #131
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I realize what I'm doing is over the top. I likely won't own both of these cars in 10 years. One will have been sold. If the Shelby goes up in price, then it'll be sold (I do have the lowest Shelby CSM # 50 Anniversary numbered car and that may be worth a premium to the right buyer if they want that combination of SS and 50th anniversary car). If it doesn't go up then I'll realize it's not such a special car and then I'll sell the clone and drive the Shelby a lot more (probably take a bath but have had a lot of fun with it and made some awesome memories).
.
Very few cars, other than the Ford GT, go up in value in the short term.
Cars like an S/S " may " go up if something about them is rare.
The fact that Shelby will mod cars for several years, makes it hard to have something rare. ( other than it's CSM # ) It will hold it's value better than most modded cars, but you're not likely to make money with it.
Just because it doesn't go up in value, doesn't mean it isn't special.
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Old 07-15-2016, 08:40 AM   #132
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It's been a while since putting up an update on the clone (been working a lot).

I'm heading to the drags tonight with the clone to see if I can beat it's best so far of 13.3sec.

The car is still all stock except I've been putting a few ground effect parts from Shelby on the car. But more importantly, I have the M/T drag radials on for tonight's excursion. I had traction issues with the Pirelli P Zero Nero tires when I took it to the drags before (those things are junk). So, I'm hoping the slicks will allow me to shave off at least 2/10's and maybe even 3/10's.

I think the next thing I will change is the driveshaft, half shafts and put in the 3.73 gears and then see what the results are.

At NE dragway they have a "list". I may see tonight what is in involved to join the list so I can start competing as I make changes.
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Old 07-15-2016, 03:13 PM   #133
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Those SS wheels look really good.
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Old 07-15-2016, 08:37 PM   #134
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There's been mention of going to 3.73 gears for the clone.
After reading many posts on this forum, I was left with the opinion that with a boosted GT you are better off with 3.31 gears rather then 3.73. At least for the 1/4 mile.
So are the 3.73 gears preferred primarily for those short spurts as with curved tracks?
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Old 07-15-2016, 08:55 PM   #135
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Those SS wheels look really good.
Thanks..but...Those are actually CCW SP540 wheels. Shelby isn't yet selling the SS wheels separate from putting them on a SS. CCW makes the SS wheels for Weld. The SS wheels are actually derived from the CCW SP540 wheels so they are related and look a little similar. The SS wheels are actually more angular and a more menacing looking.
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Old 07-15-2016, 08:59 PM   #136
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There's been mention of going to 3.73 gears for the clone.
After reading many posts on this forum, I was left with the opinion that with a boosted GT you are better off with 3.31 gears rather then 3.73. At least for the 1/4 mile.
So are the 3.73 gears preferred primarily for those short spurts as with curved tracks?
Oh boy, I'm not sure I want to start into the "best" gears for different setups. There are so many opinions.

From my viewpoint, and that of the Shelby designers, the 3.73 gears are best for road race tracks. They offer the best combination of HP with shifting for that car/engine/tire setup. They are a little infuriating for drag racing in that first gear is used up quickly and if your tires aren't tall enough you are shifting into 5th before the end of the quarter. Additionally, with 825HP the 3.73's probably are a little to low of a gear unless you are going to create some traction grabbing monster, which the SS really isn't. It is primarily designed for road course racing and not launching at a drag race.

Now, with that said...I am putting up another post about the results of tonights drag racing with a stock S550...in that case I think the 3.73's are needed.
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Old 07-15-2016, 09:18 PM   #137
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My car ("the clone") is number 384.

I knocked off 2/10's of a second by putting the drag radials on the car just as I expected. I had one better time (13.131) but have no idea what I did with the slip.

There is a lot I learned tonight.

1. When you have great traction in tires, the traction control functions of the car cause all sorts of problems. You should leave traction control on to do the burnout, then shut it off. Otherwise you wind up with all sorts of strange stalling and stumbling of the car in the first 60 feet. The traction control thinks it's too smart and any slight slipping after having massive traction causes the car to shut off the fuel or spark resulting in the car stumbling badly just after launch. It appeared to not like any slight slippage in the tires even though within a fraction of a second they were grabbing fully. It behaved very oddly. Shutting it off corrected the issue immediately.

2. With good traction, the car does no better whether launched at high rpm or rolling into the throttle. This is probably because the 3.31 gears cause the rpm's to plunge once the clutch is engaged. I was launching the car at as high as 6000rpm and it didn't reduce my 60 foot times versus rolling into the throttle.

3. The half shafts appear to be stronger than people say. As I stated above I was launching the car at 6000rpm with MT drag radials and virtually no traction slippage and nothing broke (thank goodness). Now, I think if you start messing with the tune and increasing the HP then you are going to have problems. But as far as stock HP, this car took a ton of abuse tonight. I did over 30 runs and many where hot laps...one after another.

4. The stock air intake sucks...and sucks badly. There were times where my intake air temp was well over 115 degrees. Now it was a 90 degree day and I was doing a lot of runs, but that air intake is so restricted and draws from the engine bay....it sucks.

5. The 3.31 gears are not well suited for a car with 430hp and suspension setup of the stock S550. There is almost no weight transfer and the initial drop in rpm's is terrible in first gear when engaging the clutch. I would rev to 6000rpm and dump the clutch and the engine rpm's would plunge and it would take forever for rpm's to get up to 6000 to shift into second. Terrible....truly terrible. I am expecting the 3.73 gears to help me shave off a full 1/2 second based upon what I experienced and looking at my 60 foot times. I realize that is a lot. So we'll see as the next thing I'm going to do is change the rear gears and then run the car. I don't have 3.55's to try so I don't know if they would fix the rpm issue that exists with the 3.31's. I am certain the 3.73's are going to improve my 60 foot times immensely.

Sorry for the sideways pic....I seem to be prone to doing that and didn't have time to edit it in the image editor tonight.
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Old 07-16-2016, 05:01 AM   #138
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As far as the burn out traction control issue, did you use the built in electronic line lock in the car? Or did you try to do it the good old fashioned way?

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Old 07-16-2016, 07:42 AM   #139
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What did you set the air pressure @ on the rear tires ?
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Old 07-16-2016, 07:51 AM   #140
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As far as the burn out traction control issue, did you use the built in electronic line lock in the car? Or did you try to do it the good old fashioned way?
Traction control on, linelock on, light up the tires to heat them up, pull up to the lights, traction control off, then go.
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