the supercharger's first casualty - Mustang Evolution

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Old 05-19-2005, 10:16 PM   #1
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the supercharger's first casualty

was the clutch! guess it's time to upgrade that as well
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Old 05-19-2005, 10:19 PM   #2
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thats sucks that you burnt it up but its good that you found out early. What are you gonna get to replace it?
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Old 05-19-2005, 10:45 PM   #3
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probably spec stage 2, maybe 3. I don't know, I've heard the stage 3 is tricky to drive.
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Old 05-19-2005, 10:46 PM   #4
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the spec 3 is like driving with an on/off switch
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Old 05-19-2005, 10:48 PM   #5
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I have a 3 its not so bad once you get it broken in and used to it.
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Old 05-20-2005, 12:03 AM   #6
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well, in thinking about it I'm thinking the clutch itself is probably fine. It never smelled of burned clutch. I'm thinking that it is probably the cable linkage got out of adjustment somehow. Maybe a bent fork or something but I'll get under the car and take a look sometime soon.
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Old 05-20-2005, 07:50 AM   #7
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You can save a bundle of money if you look thru your yellow pages for a industrial Clutch dealer. I use to use one in Mobile,AL called Clutch Products. They handled all types of Clutches. All these fancy names for clutches and people still seem to go thru them. I will be honest and say I had tremendous luck with Borg Warner Brute Power Clutrch kits. They come with everything you need. Remember when you do a clutch you need to resurface the flywheel or replace it or your clutch will not last. This is the biggest mistake people make. They change the pressure plate, clutch disc and throwout bearing but forget the flywheel and inspect the fork. High heat can warp the fork and the throwout bearing will not allow for even contact with the pressure plate causing premature wear.
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Old 05-20-2005, 09:37 AM   #8
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yeah, thanks, I was told that I need to resurface the flywheel by another friend as well.
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Old 05-20-2005, 11:07 AM   #9
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Here is the write-up I used and it is great.


Clutch install.

. Disconnect battery
2. Remove shifter lever (or complete shifter)
3. Jack up vehicle and place on four jack stands (as high as possible)
4. Disconnect all four 02 sensors
5. Spray h-pipe bolts with WD40 or whatever, let set for 20 min,
6. Remove h-pipe
7. Remove starter (3 bolts) ½” socket
8. Drain tranny fluid and re-install drain plug when the tranny has been completely drained
9. Remove the drive shaft (use a 12mm 12 point socket to remove the four DS bolts and apply orientation marks so that the DS is re-installed exatly from the same area it was removed.
10. Remove all the electrical wiring from the tranny, (vehicle speed sensor, clutch cable ect...ect..)
11. Remove the two tranny cross member side bolts and let the transmission sit at an angle, this will make it very easy to access the two top tranny bolts. Remove the two top tranny bolts. (long extension needed)
12. Re-install the tranny cross member to its normal location and slide the two cross member bolts on..(do not thread the stationary nuts back on.
13. Remove the rest of the tranny BH bolts.
14. Remove the two cross member side bolts and make sure your in a good position to wrestle the tranny off..let it rest on your chest and roll over.
15. Remove the PP, and FW…Clean the threads on the PP and FW bolts with a wire brush.
16. Remove pilot bearing (slide hammer and pulley kit needed)
17 . Re-install new pilot bearing and add bearing grease to the new pilot bearing
18. Install the freshly turned FW, add red loctite to the FW bolts and snug in a criss-cross pattern, then do a finishing torque of 65 ft-lb.
19. Clean the flywheel surface with Acetone
20. Clean the PP rotor surface with Acetone and place the clutch disk in the proper orientation to the PP rotor..
21. Install the clutch alignment tool then place the PP and clutch disk to the FW, and add red loctite to the PP bolts and install the bolts until the PP and clutch disk has seated to the FW.
22. Loosen the PP bolts ½ turn then torque the PP bolts down first to 15ftlb, then do a finishing torque of 28 ft-lb.
23. Look to make sure the PP, and Clutch disk are concentric…If everything looks good re-install the tranny with a new clutch release fork ($30 from ford) and a new TB and make sure your generous in greasing the prongs on the clutch release fork and the TB bore.
24. Re-install the tranny
25 . Re-install the Drive shaft (use red loctite on DS bolts and torque to 90 ft-lb).
26. Remove the fill plug on the tranny..you cant fill it from the shifter area and fill until tranny fluid seeps from the tranny filler hole.
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Old 05-20-2005, 12:04 PM   #10
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gracias...

ergh, look at all the extra parts to replace
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Old 05-26-2005, 10:15 AM   #11
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this one looks pretty good.. with pictures!

http://www.mustang50magazine.com/how...ve/index1.html
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Old 05-26-2005, 06:49 PM   #12
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look at it on the bright side.. you'll have an upgraded clutch and a supercharger.
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Old 05-26-2005, 09:48 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by whipster24
probably spec stage 2, maybe 3. I don't know, I've heard the stage 3 is tricky to drive.
stage 2 is better for everyday use than stage 3.
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