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Old 03-10-2004, 09:10 PM   #1
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the best mod eva

is NOT a driveshaft safety loop.

and i thought a header swap was hard... at least that gained a bit of power. the only thing this did was weigh me down another 5-10lbs or so. i had to remove the seats, pull up the carpet, and drill holes in my floor pan. it took me probably 8 hours.
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Old 03-10-2004, 09:50 PM   #2
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dang 8 hrs... so that pretty much summed up your whole day
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Old 03-10-2004, 10:02 PM   #3
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Old 03-10-2004, 10:40 PM   #4
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try parts of two days. i cleaned up though under my carpet with a vaccuum... all sorts of dirty and rocks and litter. and it's only 3 years old! i'm kinda glad i got the chance to clean her from floorpan to ceiling.

i'm getting closer and closer to race ready.
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Old 03-11-2004, 01:16 AM   #5
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Im curious, a driveshaft loop is only needed if you run like 11's or quicker, what are your plans?
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Old 03-11-2004, 10:16 AM   #6
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Driveshaft Loop? You're not running the times that requires a driveshaft loop are you?
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Old 03-11-2004, 10:24 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EclipseGSTdude
Im curious, a driveshaft loop is only needed if you run like 11's or quicker, what are your plans?
for nhra tracks it's 13.99 and less and for ihra it's 13.49. because my car looks fast, they gave me problems before i ran it one time, so might as well get it out of the way, you know. plans are a built 4.0 with an autorotor 2.2l supercharger (6.2l artificial displacement) or an m112 ('03 cobra blower) but we'lll need ANOTHER different intake for it for the later blower. both things are posted in the engine and power adder forums.

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Originally Posted by Rellik
Driveshaft Loop? You're not running the times that requires a driveshaft loop are you?
not n/a, but with either n2o or the blower even on my stock motor i'll be in 13's fo sheezy.
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Old 03-11-2004, 10:57 AM   #8
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And at 13.9 it's required. but dont break into the 12's (or is it ht 11's?)... then you'll need a roll cage
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Old 03-11-2004, 11:08 AM   #9
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nhra is 11.99 and lower for roll cage, ihra is 11.49 i think.
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Old 03-12-2004, 01:29 AM   #10
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lol and isnt a rollcage required for 14.99 or quicker if a convertible. if so i get only 1 chance at the track to get my times before the kick me out.
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Old 03-12-2004, 01:43 AM   #11
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no, that's a rollBAR. rollCAGE for verts is 13.99 i believe.
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Old 03-12-2004, 01:44 AM   #12
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:no: so i need a rollbar too now. dammit f the track, ill just go like once a year to get a real time then bizzounce.
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Old 03-12-2004, 01:52 AM   #13
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in your dsm? what have you ran with her before?
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Old 03-12-2004, 01:54 AM   #14
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dont know yet, but i kept up with a cobra(older 96+) on the street,so that must be good for a 14.7? they say the gst's run a 15.2 stock. and i got intake, 3" catback, greddy type-S BOV, and crappy tires. so as soon as i get some new rubber in, itll help lots.
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Old 03-12-2004, 02:02 AM   #15
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it is AWD correct? some smaller, skinnier wheels with good tires should help loads over your 18's. i don't know anything about them other than the fact 14's are stock, maybe 15's on a bad night.

i've driven a normal FWD eclipsed turbo'd and it wasn't impressive at all. in one of my rare moments i'll defend the v6 and say i definitely would eat this guy's eclipse up n/a. i'm sure your motor and setup is a lot better though.
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Old 03-12-2004, 02:07 AM   #16
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yes i have fwd. i wish it was awd but hey i was just looking for a gs to make look sweet, but i found a gst spyder for a gs price. the other guy with his gst said he got a 15.3 when he was stock, so i dont know. ill be happy with a 14.99999. but im like 95% sure ill hit 14's. that other 5% is if for some reason i cant grip any or misshift. oh and alot of people in 2g fwd have 18's and they say it really wasnt an issue(weight wise) cause the stock gst rims weigh in at like 25lbs a piece anyways, and the rims id be getting, the 18's, are 22lbs a piece. and some khumo ecstas to grip, and it should be fun. these rims btw
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Old 03-12-2004, 02:11 AM   #17
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nice wheels. though they are lighter technically, the rotating mass will still outweigh your stockers. and there is no such thing as too light! my stang started at 3,180 or so and is somewhere in the 3,030-3,050 range now. that's roughly .13 seconds faster 1/4 mi wise, not to mention most is the front end and that'll help on launching. what do FWD vehicle do for launching? it seems just wierd to me because i'm used to RWD. i guess the front springs and struts need to be firm with little give and the backs are similar? it's hard to have weight transfer on a car that needs weight on the front... hmmm... my brain is hurting from trying to figure this quandry out.
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Old 03-12-2004, 02:14 AM   #18
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what spec turbo do you have on it? a cammed/larger turbo/exhaust setup i bet would help out bigtime. what effects power most on a small displacment OHC turbomotor?
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Old 03-12-2004, 02:17 AM   #19
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lol fwd, umm i launch at 3500 rpm, i feather the clutch out and ease off the line, i dont give it full throttle at all in 1st, or i just give it enough throttle to achieve about 7lbs of boost, then hit 2nd, wait till about 4500rpms to go full throttle, then when boost hits full at 15psi at about 5k its torque steer galore, like being pulled towards the curb. must fight it, hit 3rd, and torque steer is still there alittle, 3rd takes a loooooooong time it seems. never have i ever taken a streetrace to 4th gear though, cause thats like 90+mph and im cool off that.

oh so anyways, the launch, well most imports that are less than stock(more modded) dont get traction til mid 2nd. now a awd, on the other hand, launch at about 5k, and shoot out of the hole. wish i had awd. well guess ill have to get lsd(quaife unit=900 buckaroos, not including the install) to launch good.
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Old 03-12-2004, 02:22 AM   #20
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stock 14b turbo. air flow into and out of the engine help most, some tuners on the dsm boards say that with a full intake and exhaust setup on stock turbo and engine, got them 14.2's, thats gull 3" turbo back exhaust, with test pipe/cat delete, tubular 02 sensor housing, tubular headers(or evo ported manifold), hard upper and lower IC piping(greddy steel/chrome piping) and a good filter. that will run about 1 grand all there.

downpipe off ebay=160
catback from shop custom made+muffler=370
02 sensor housing=150
upper and lower greddy IC piping=300
filter(K&N off ebay)=50

so yeah. about a grand.

so im halfway there.
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Old 03-12-2004, 02:34 AM   #21
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wait so it is IC'd factory? a simple small air-air i'm assuming?
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Old 03-12-2004, 02:37 AM   #22
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what kind of launches can the front axles and differential take? wouldn't gears and sticky tires get you close to low 14's? with launching now at 1,500rpm, you could stand to gain a lot by getting traction.
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Old 03-12-2004, 02:49 AM   #23
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yeah a little side mount.its about 1' X 1' and about 3" deep. it does its job well too, until you start boosting 20psi, then it gets heat soaked real quick. im prolly gonna wait till i get a front mount to do hard IC piping. some of the "sleeper" people get the supra side mount, cause its about as big as a greddy frontmount, and works just as good. for those who like the "sleeper" look.
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Old 03-12-2004, 02:55 AM   #24
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i think being an eclipse is "sleeper" enough. *awaits flames*

seriously though, where is the IAT located and what temps are you getting. do you know i/e flows, lift, dur.? i'd imagine exh work would really help on small turbo'd motors because of the simple fact that the turbo is run by exh.

what gears do you have in her right now? and what about the sticky tire q's i asked.
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Old 03-12-2004, 02:57 AM   #25
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gears? going different gears is not as easy as a rwd. besides, i think the final drive gear is a 3.27 anyways. sticky tires and Limited Slip Diff. help the fwd's alot, but the dam lsd unit costs about 900 bucks. im gonna hold out on performance mods for a bit though. gonna make it look better for the summer(convertible+cali+nice rims=hunnies galore) then next winter its back to basics. gonna try to get the rest of my stage 1 mods done, then after those are done, its body kit and paint, cause people calling her purple is getting annoying. ITS PEARLESCENT CHARCOAL. gonna be a bomex body kit (blitz is so worn out), painted, oh, white or something basic thats easy to take care of.
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Old 03-12-2004, 03:04 AM   #26
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how can a posi unit cost that much, i don't get it?

pearlescent charcoal... dang with a name like that and a car like that... expect many a gay joke coming your way.

is she your daily driver fun car i'm guessing? i'd pimp the tbird any day. gotta love verts though...!
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Old 03-12-2004, 03:12 AM   #27
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IAT? would it matter? prolly not. now a egt sensor yeah, but the iat sensor, eh. i had it dangling on my tbird when the bird had a filter and the little thing did nothing really. its ok if you think a eclipse is a sleeper. i was sold on a 6er till i took a gst out for a spin, and as soon as i hit boost it was over. had to have a turbo. i think 15's are dam good for a 4banger with a hairdryer bolted on to it. exhaust work helps a whole ****load. the turbo spools 2X as fast with the 3" catback. now imagine if i had all the exhaust work done, headers,02 sensor housing and downpipe. holy god, thered be like no lag. how can a posi cost that much? dont know, prolly cause everyone with 300+ hp on a fwd will need one sooner or later. sure fwd works fine for them honda boys with their all their power at 6k rpm, but on the mitsus 4g63, we make torque(yes a 4banger does make torque), and its not hard at all to spin. in 1st a simple blip of the gas will usually get them to chirp alittle. lsd would turn that chirp into asphalt biting grip. well kinda, but better with lsd than without.

lol i was kidding on the pearlescent thing. i think mitsu calles it "dark charcoal grey" or something. if i wasnt lazy id get the touch up bottle from my car. and i used to use the bird as a daily driver and pimp the eclipse on weekends, but the tbird is so dam boring. its comfy as hell, but automatic. duuuuuh. manual+turbo is more the way i wanna wake up to on my way to work. like driving a dam rally car. the tbird is for sale now too, figure if im not gonna use it, some ghetto *** foo can pimp it out with dubs and 4 12" speakers and gold trim.
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Old 03-12-2004, 03:13 AM   #28
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tire i think we be the only ones up right now.
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Old 03-12-2004, 03:16 AM   #29
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i was kidding about the sleeper thing and the other thing i forgot... i'm not hating on you car at all, just messing. turboes make good (and much needed) tq, i believe it makes some tq at rpm. i want the tbird. it'd be my favorite daily driver. i need a truck though.
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Old 03-12-2004, 03:28 AM   #30
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lol i know, were haveing freindly, shadetree mechanic conversation.


btw im selling the bird for 5k. no less(i owe 4,500 on it to parents)
it has 97K, 4R70W with 3K stall converter, flowmaster 40's, not dual, still dual, single, dual stock setup, comes with springtech springs and ST Shock package for a 1.5" drop. one of my old freinds who now lives in san diego for the marines was like"no ****, youre selling her, 5K? dam im going to see if i can get me a loan through the army" i guess he thought it was one of the finer cars in our hs. and he knows how much i babied it. its a good car, big, comfy, has power(15.9 seconds in the 1/4 stock, w00t), but its just not meant for speed. you can make the 4.6er inthe bird run with stangs, if you drop about 2500 into a pi head, pi cam and other crap, all of which i had no patience to do on that car (tight spots, no room in engine bay to work), so i decided that project rolling thunder was a little too much for me. im now on "project eclipsed", which for me now, is a little more doable. plus half my freinds are all into imports and can do swaps in half a day with sufficient beer(and were not talking simple b18 swaps, more like nissan sr20's and toyota 2jzl's)
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Old 03-12-2004, 03:37 AM   #31
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cool, thanks for the info. your mad typos mean you need some sleep man, go to bed. nissan and toyota motors in mistus? : aren't b18 blocks good for plenty street power? 400rwhp+?
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Old 03-12-2004, 03:42 AM   #32
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no but they have put the sr20 into some little *** nissan car(forget the name), and the toyota supra engine into a supra shell. and b18's, 400hp? the highest ive seen a all motor dyno was 320 @6.7K, maybe a all motor with turbo, but most honda motors can only handle like 7psi of boost. not to mention that vtec and turbo do not get along at all. it can be done but not without extensive tuning equipment. and with that, im off to bed
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