Whats everyone's opinions on these for a lowered car? I went to go get an alignment today and my ball joints are shot. The technician showed me my ball joints and they actually came out of the a arm when lifted up. Could this be due to cheap ball joints(wrong size) or could previous owner have burred out the a arm to make fit easier? I'd like to get the X2's but not if I'm gonna need new a arms. Where would be a good cheap place to get aftermarket a arms if I need to replace them?
I checked them out on American Muscle and what they had to say about them was pretty impressive. Link: Steeda X2 Ball Joints
If the old joints just came out of the arm, then likely the arms are wallowed out or had been reamed out like you suggested.
A salvage yard like MPS Auto Salvagemay be the least expensive place to get replacements, as I bet they are really expensive from Ford.
Maximum Motorsports also has them in OE and aftermarket style.
They both run around $350 for urethane bushings, but the aftermarket also require a coilover conversion.
If you have a set of calipers, just measure the inside diameter of the mounting hole in the a-arm and then go to the parts store and measure the outside of a new ball joint. There should be a few thousandths difference for the interference fit. :good:
If you have a set of calipers, just measure the inside diameter of the mounting hole in the a-arm and then go to the parts store and measure the outside of a new ball joint. There should be a few thousandths difference for the interference fit. :good:
I've read these come with spacers to keep from lowering the front another 1/2in. If I use the spacers will it still help with the geometry? Item description is below
Ordered Monday delivered today. Love the fast free shipping from AM. The spacers are just aluminum donuts that slide in on top of your spring so looks like I'll be borrowing a spring compressor from a parts store.
I would put them above the isolator.
That way the spring contacts the isolator and the isolator is seated against the spacer, which is seated against the metal of the car.
If you put the spacers between the spring and the isolator. I bet the spring would eventually pound the spacers through the isolator.
Well I had to tack weld my ball joints in due to the idiot owner before me grinding out the arms. Next time i need ball joints I'll just get some aftermarket a arms.
That sux!
I wonder if you couldn't use some bolt in joints and just drill some holes and bolt them in.
That may be an option to look into if you don't want to spend the cash for aftermarket arms.
I believe I should be able to grind the joint out buy grinding on just the ball joint and saving the arm. Will just have to see when the time comes I just don't want to weaken the arm with alot of heat.
Here's what I found on the spacers on instructions at AM.
AM said:
22. Next you need to drop out the jack that was holding the A-arm up and grab your coil spring. You also need to
make a decision about the spring spacers if you have not already. The installation instruction Steeda provides are useful,
however, in explaining the purpose of the included spring spacers. I recommend following these guidelines so that your
mustang’s handling will be improved as much as possible. This is what they say:
23. So, depending on your application, begin reinstalling the front suspension and steering components by putting the
coil spring back in the A-arm with or without the Steeda spring spacers between the top of the spring and the top spring perch.
It doesn't mention the isolator. The way I see it, it's as wide as the spring itself so it would be no different then the spring pounding on the isolator.
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