If it has some miles on it, a common thing is for the traction Lok clutches to go out. You'd know this because when you burn out, only one tire would spin or one noticeable more than the other.
Ok, I don't do to many burnouts so I haven't noticed that. It just rolled over 92,000. What have noticed is when I turn in or back out on a turn it seems like one wheel has a catch or is turning faster than the other. There is also a kinda growl or whine sound when it does this. This makes me think differential. I have jacked it up an there seems to be excessive play in the rear wheels. My next question is can this issue cause a problem with it going into gear? The reason I ask is because when it doest want to go into gear sometimes I let it roll forward just a hair it pops into gear there is a cunk sound from the rear end at the same time it goes it to gear
You can jack it up and pop the punkin cover. You'll need to buy some gear oil and a gasket (or gasket in a tube) so you can put the cover back on. You should be able to see what's wrong by looking at it. It sounds like something is compromised. But I think you'll see what's going on when you look at it and move the wheels when it's on the jack stands. Maybe really bad clutches will make that noise, I'm not sure about that. Usually people notice it won't burnout with both tires first. After doing that, you can better decide how/who will fix it.
The going into gear problem is different. That could be your clutch is about had it and not fully disengaging enough to make it easy to put in hear. If this is only when it's cold, it's pretty common for a TR3650 (assuming you are mid 2001 - 2004) to be harder to get into hear when it's cold. Using Mobile 1 ATF can help that. It could be that your clutch cable is pretty shot too. If its stretched, it can cause the clutch to not disengage completely when the pedal is pushed in.
I am pretty sure its not the clutch. It has a centerforce dual friction clutch in it that is fairly new. I took it to a trans shop an they told me that clutch was way to tight an to much clutch for the car an recommended I put a oem clutch in it. They did say it could be the cable or the fork. I guess I was hoping to kill to birds with one stone an the differential be the cause of both. Its going to the shop in a couple months to have 3.73 gears put in an I will just go ahead an order the differential an have it replaced to. I will let the trans shop check the cable an see what they find out. Thanks for your help
Are you still running with the stock cable/quadrant setup? Those plastic quadrants tend to crack. And since it's an aftermarket clutch, you should pickup a new quadrant and cable anyway. They are not too expensive. American Muscle has them, check it out...
Make sure when you take it to get the gears put in to have them put new bearings in there to. It will keep you from having to pop it open again for a very long time (other than to change the fluid). Ask them not to forget the friction modifier or it will chatter on you.
Yea its still the stock cable assembly. I was going to order the whole install kit, but I forgot about the friction modifier. Thanks for the reminder, and thanks for all the info been a great help
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