Bama 91 Race tune, GT500 blue racing stripes with matching hash marks and side stripe, cold air intake, Flowmaster super 44s with Roush 4" tips, CDC performance grille, side scoops, painted white quarter windows, all lights tinted
No dick headery intended pal. I just asked why you even bothered to ask the question. If buying a new motor is no big deal. With that mindset it sounds like you should have bought the 5.0 instead.
2013 pp mca 3.7 glass roof
2.5% dl tinted windows
Bbk shortys
20"resonators
Roush ab.
Bama/mpt tunes
Well, it shouldnt take much forethought that adding 100+ horsepower to an engine will require at least some re calibration ...
That being said, as far as a 200 shot goes, lets do some ricer math here. Assuming your car makes a flat 300 whp, the 200 shot would put you in the ~500 whp ball park, which shouldnt be hard for the stock motor. Horsepower isnt what breaks things though, its torque, so depending on how you have the shot set up will be the determining factor. A kit is only as good as the safety features and electronics running it.
Thank you for the help and giving me a better understanding of things. I have a wet nitrous kit from zex and I'm going to get it professionally installed so if I end up going for 200, the safety features and electronics work good
#1 mistake is running a 200 shot through a single nozzle. Especially a crap ZEX kit.
Also having the nitrous come in at anything under 3,000 rpms on a stock motor is also dumb.
Good luck
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I agree. 150 shot max and I would go ahead and have it tuned for it. Keep in mind, N2O makes crazy torque, so make sure your drive train is up to par. I've used N2O on previous Mustangs for years. It is a very reliable power adder if done right. Good luck.
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you need to pull 2 degrees of timing for every 50hp added so about 4 degrees back... i ran a 100shot all day with an mpt nitrous tune... AFR's were in the 11-11.5 range when spaying. i still have that nitrous outlet plate if you wanna step your game up...
I have to be honest here. When you guys talk Nitrous and mention things like single nozzle, window switch, wet, dry, spicey, mild BBQ, makes me realize. I don't know crap about Nitrous. Ba ha ha ha
I was always told Nitrous was the quickest way to kill an engine. After listening to Rap about it, I'm not so sure Nitrous will damage an engine when done right? I need to learn more about Nitrous.
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So Rap, my good buddy. Let's say I wanted to add a nitrous kit to my 3.7. Give it to me sir. What would I need to have it done right and safe? What parts, what exact kit? How much of a shot can a factory stock 3.7 block handle safely? 75, 100, 150 shot??
Is the brand N20 the best choice. Rap, can you come to Maryland and set my kit up. Ha ha ha. I trust you bro.
Is a nitrous kit the best bang for the buck for F.I over turbo or supercharger? Doesn't the bottle have to be kept warm in order to spray? How many times can you spray on a bottle. This Nitrous ***** is confusing as heck. Ha ha
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I prefer nitrous over a supercharger or a turbo personally. It's just personal preference. People talk Mess bc you have to refill bottles blah blah.......
I would go with the plate kit from nitrous outlet.
- A purge ( gets air out of lines )
- Window switch ( let's you set when you want your nitrous to come on and off )
- colder plugs
- bottle heater
- pressure gauge
I would do a 100 to start then move up to a 150
How long a bottle last depends in the size of the bottle what shot your running, and how long you stay in it.
For a rough estimate. 100 shot will get you 10 real good runs out of a 10lb bottle.
Brand wise I prefer nitrous express. That's all I have ever used. From my bike all the way to my coyote.
But for your application the plate kit from nitrous outlet is the best bet.
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Since the fiance and i are both going to be tracking it , keeping it NA is probably best since the car will only get ~20 minutes between sessions. Also, the heat on track really stresses the hot side turbo parts and replacing everything with inconel and all the proper hardware ends up costing around the same money for around the same power as the K24 swap, but at that point you're limited by the stock miata internals anyways.
To make it even worse, you basically need a stand alone to tune the turbo since the stock ECU cant be flashed. At that point, the car cant be legally inspected unless you swap stock injectors / re install maf (stand alone is speed density) and limp the car over once a year to get inspected on the stock computer. Not something i want to deal with.
You guys were right... Zex does suck. The wet nitrous management unit isn't working right. Every wire is connected right but it's not working right at all
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