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-   -   First timer here (http://www.mustangevolution.com/forum/f395/t374437/)

Darin 01-21-2016 09:31 PM

First timer here
 
As it says, I am popping my cherry on working on cars. I have a 94 GT and I am running into issues with the RPM's shooting up a little when I am shifting gears and sometimes the car will stall out and not start for about 20 or so minutes. In the introduction area someone mentioned new plugs and wires, cleaning the IAC and the throttle body. I did plugs, wires and a distributor cap along with a fuel filter and pump. Pump was done by Ford because I have no idea on that and didn't want to totally screw it up lol. So tonight I removed the IAC and cleaned it and removed the throttle body and have a few questions on that. When I took off the iac I removed the gasket and it covered a lot of extra hidden space and was wondering if I leave it alone will it be okay or should I put a new gasket on it. The throttle body gasket is still intact and looks to be a clear plastic and should I replace that also. Thanks for the help and sorry for the long post.


1994 Mustang GT
Bare Bones Stock

tym_v6 01-24-2016 09:22 PM

New gaskets are cheap insurance against future problems...old gaskets might look OK but still have stiffened, deformed, etc.

Strange Mud 01-25-2016 06:22 AM

+1. It's easier to do it right rather than twice.

oxfordwhite 01-25-2016 07:40 AM

Hey Darin, it's part of the fun to be able to work on your own stuff. I would suggest you get a shop manual, even a cheap Haynes book is going to help you a lot. Enjoy your greasy finger nails.

Darin 01-26-2016 07:46 AM

I did end up getting new gaskets for both the throttle body and the IAC. Hooked them back up and have the same issue. Went and got a Haynes book because you know, it has pictures haha!! Did a little more looking around online and seen a couple things about the EGR so I took that off and cleaned it too. Blew through the vacuum line and the diaphragm would rise and fall so I guess that is good. Only other thing I can think of is that it might be the distributor itself so I will look into one of those while I read up on how to check the power at connections. Any decent distributors that won't break the bank? Just trying to get her running before I dump a ton of money.


1994 Mustang GT
Bare Bones Stock

tym_v6 01-26-2016 07:58 PM

Basic things to check with the distributor would be to make sure the cap isn't cracked and make sure the points inside (if it has points vs. electronic) aren't messed up.

Nice upgrade over points is an electronic ignition like the Ignitor series from Pertronix.

PendletonCowboy 02-02-2016 10:17 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Darin (Post 2329852)
sometimes the car will stall out and not start for about 20 or so minutes.

That is odd but I'm sure someone here will have some suggestions for you.

bucko 02-03-2016 03:27 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Darin (Post 2329852)
sometimes the car will stall out and not start for about 20 or so minutes.

As soon as this issue arrises, you need to check for spark and fuel to narrow this issue down. You could be experiencing vapor lock (fuel), or the fuel filter is becoming plugged. After the car sits, the debris settles in the fuel filter, and allows for fuel pressure in the injector rails/injectors to flow again.

A warm engine can also cause electronic failure in the way of the coil(s), causing a no spark/weak spark issue.

Darin 08-07-2016 10:04 PM

Six month bump on this lol. So I have slowly been tinkering and plying with stang and I believe that I have finally got to the bottom of the stalling problem. First off, I did a whole ignition "upgrade" and installed an MSD digital 6al box, new ICM, plugs Msd wires and coil, power steering pump and return line because old one was leaking. BBK Cai, 70mm throttle body, iac, tps, pcv valve and hose, charcoal canister and hoses because of vacuum leaks in the far back of the engine area. Now for the big fix! I replaced the coolant temp sensor a while back but even after all the fixes I had done the car still would stall out. Went looking and researching how to do electrical testing and I first check the cts. Readings were normal range between cold engine and hot but I noticed the wires from the harness that connected to the sensor were bare......just open wires sitting around waiting to ground out or over heat. Replaced with a new Ford sending unit and pigtail today, ran it for a 30-60 of city driving and not one stalling issue or scare and after I parked the car after driving it fired right back up again and again. So, fingers crossed this will take care of the problem and I can now move onto some bigger and better things! So if you have an issue with stalling after the engine is warm and no restart check the electrical ! Sorry for the long post everyone.


1994 Mustang GT
Bare Bones Stock

oxfordwhite 08-07-2016 10:33 PM

Good job Darin, I new you could do it. And now your getting to know your car like no one else will. They begin to show you their personality when you get this close to them. Then after awhile they will tell you something is not right and you will be able to hear what they are saying. Trust me, you'll see.

Ocrim 08-08-2016 07:44 AM

Good job bud! Now let the mod bug take you to the land on amazement lol.


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mariocherry 08-13-2016 08:32 AM

Ok I'm new to the whole Muscle car thing. I recently bought a used 97 Convertible 3.8l V6, I'm wondering if I can fit a 02 GT 4.6l V8 in her.

Revvv 08-13-2016 10:49 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mariocherry (Post 2388649)
Ok I'm new to the whole Muscle car thing. I recently bought a used 97 Convertible 3.8l V6, I'm wondering if I can fit a 02 GT 4.6l V8 in her.

Yes, you can swap out the 6 for an 8.

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Ocrim 08-13-2016 11:55 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mariocherry (Post 2388649)
Ok I'm new to the whole Muscle car thing. I recently bought a used 97 Convertible 3.8l V6, I'm wondering if I can fit a 02 GT 4.6l V8 in her.



You'll have to swap rear ends also along with the K member iirc.


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