anyone with experience i could use some help

[upton7]

you can make fun of me if you want but i wanna learn first off how do you do a good burnout with a manual and when drag racing when you start before you go do you rev it to a certain rpm and pop the clutch or what any other advice about drag racing i'm open to it so go ahead and chime in

[OsirisGuy]

Actually I'm quite interested too. I'm just use to an auto and holding down both the brake and gas.

[upton7]

yup same here i just got my new 5 speed like 2.5 weeks ago

[DarkShadows]

rev up pop the clutch then left foot brake. tricky part is shifting fast enough to 2nd to keep it going after you run out of gear in first. you can do it you just need to be quick and make sure you have plenty of room in front of you the first few times you try.

[Herbstang]

Step1 Not really nesserary But not a bad idea
get on a dyno to figure out the correct power-band of each gear of your manual transmission. While many people believe that the engine is putting out the most power right before the red-line, the maximum power-band actually occurs somewhat before that.
Step2
Consider purchasing a lighted shifting indicator, which can be adjusted to reflect the maximum power-band of each gear. Since you will be able to see the shift light indicator in your peripheral vision, you can keep your eyes safely on the road and still know the best time to perform your speed shift.
Step3
Implement the speed shift technique for your manual transmission by revving your engine before your launch from 2000 to 3500 rpm, depending upon the low-end torque of your vehicle (the more torque you have, the less you will need to rev your engine). Remember that the less you spin your tires, the quicker your launch will be.
Step4
Try to shift about 200 to 300 RPMs before you hit the optimum power-band for each gear. This will help to compensate for your reaction time to seeing the shifting indicator light, which may be as much as a second or even more.
Step5
Keep your foot on the gas during each speed-shift. This will cause your engine to rev high while the clutch is depressed, so you will need to make your shift quickly enough so that you do not approach the red-line, which can either burn out your engine or cause the rev limiter to kick in and shut off your engine. Either way, you will lose the drag race!

[PureVenom]

The key to the burnout is to first get your rear tires spinning. You need to find the RPM that lets your tires rip loose. You can practice that part on the street.

To keep the burnout going, you need to do as Darkie said...and you need to get your left foot on the brake. The key is to apply enough pressure to not roll forward, but not so much you actually stop the rear wheels from spinning as that will fry your clutch quick fast and in a hurry.

The best way I've found that worked in my GT as well, was to rev up to about 3k and then pop the clutch and as I am popping the clutch give it more gas as well. Then quickly get on the brake.

Also, if you are running street tires...like regular street radials, you do NOT need to do a burnout. In fact, a burnout will hurt your times more than help because it will make the street compound slippery. The only burnout you should do on street tires is to turn them over enough to throw any rocks/dirt/shit off them you may have picked up while rolling up to the staging lanes.

Another note, if you have street tires, you should be avoiding the water box as best you can. Street tires will bring water to the starting line....even with a john force burnout.

[hottcobra]

the easiest thing to do is buy a line lock kit for the front brakes. than the brakes are not a part of the problem. plus your not wearing out your rear brakes

[upton7]

so for my car that has regular street tires i don't really need to do a burnout and to take off basically rev it to 2000 or a lil more and pop the clutch then speed shift the rest of the way?

[DarkShadows]

if your looking for a good start without much tire spin then i usual rev to about 3000 or so and let the clutch go but not just pop it, and feather the throttle till i feel the car bite

[PureVenom]

Yeah. Burnouts on street tires are not beneficial. They just make the tire more slick. A couple quick clutch pops to knock any rocks and stuff off is all you really need. You'll also want to avoid the water box.

[upton7]

alright thanks guys

[OsirisGuy]

Yeah that was great, thanks all.

Quick question though I know many that run slicks burn out in the water box, those with street go around. Do those with streets do any burnouts like to the sides of the water box? I thought this was supposed to heat up the tires no matter what?

[bbunt302]

In my car, I always just revved up to about 4.5-5k in second gear with the clutch in, pop off the clutch and hit the brake.

The key is to always do it in second gear as the tires will turn much faster than in 1st.

As said before, doing this on street tires is a waste. You'll just want to quickly turn them over in 1st to clean off the tires, but not heat them. It's also a good idea to do this with slicks/drag radials after your burnout.

[Cobra GT]

It’s been awhile, but I don’t know about going around the water pit. I would roll through the water, spin it in 1st gear for a few seconds then do a few dry burn outs and get it lined up. Like Louis said a brake lock or a dial proportioning valve where you can crank rear brake out then before you race dial it back in. You definitely don’t nee to pop the clutch at the line unless you know you car will hook. That comes with experience to know what RPM you car will leave the hardest without wheel spin. Most races are won or lost at the line. Work it out.

[OsirisGuy]

Forgive my ignorance but what exactly is "hooking". From what I can tell it's if the car swings to the left or right? But am I just reading into the terminology differently?

[bbunt302]

Quote: Originally Posted by OsirisGuy Forgive my ignorance but what exactly is "hooking". From what I can tell it's if the car swings to the left or right? But am I just reading into the terminology differently?

Hooking is when a man and/or woman allows other men and/or women to have sex with them in exchange for money.

It's also used to describe when your car actually gets traction. Basically, it's taking off without spinning the tires.

[SpectorV]

cars have traction very differently at the track, when you find the magic point to launch at where your tires just barely spin raise it up at the track by 500 rpms at least

[upton7]

so about 3000 rpm and let off the cluth kinda quick but not pop it?

[1234]

Quote: Originally Posted by upton7 so about 3000 rpm and let off the cluth kinda quick but not pop it?

Yes. I have found out in my car I get a good launch at 3500rpm. By letting the clutch out quickly but not dumping it. It all come with time and practice.

[MonteCitan]

Quote: Originally Posted by bbunt302 In my car, I always just revved up to about 4.5-5k in second gear with the clutch in, pop off the clutch and hit the brake. The key is to always do it in second gear as the tires will turn much faster than in 1st. As said before, doing this on street tires is a waste. You'll just want to quickly turn them over in 1st to clean off the tires, but not heat them. It's also a good idea to do this with slicks/drag radials after your burnout.

Agreed.. You don't need to do this with street tires unless they make you run through the water pit like atco but even then a quick spin to dry them off is all you'd need

with DRs or slicks, I would be sure to spin the tires around a bit in the water pit (just blip the gas through the water) then would rev up to ~3-3500 in second, start letting off the clutch til I feel the car start to grab and roll forward, then let it out, hit the gas and brake at the same time..

Not sure if you wanted tips with launches but on DRs with the 92 I would rev to about 3500 also, let the clutch halfway out, car's weight would shift, and move forward just a bit, once there's that much more traction for the rear tires, I let it rip.. 9 times out of 10 it would grip really well.. I have gotten several 1.8 60's on prepped tracks and BFG drag radials

[iamdat]

i do 2nd gear burnouts too.in my stock suspension car (upper and lowers, spherical bushing, steeda SPORT springs), i can dump it at 4500 and cut 1.60-1.65 range on mt et street radials. never broke the 1.5's though

[MonteCitan]

Quote: Originally Posted by iamdat i do 2nd gear burnouts too.in my stock suspension car (upper and lowers, spherical bushing, steeda SPORT springs), i can dump it at 4500 and cut 1.60-1.65 range on mt et street radials. never broke the 1.5's though

I broke 1.5s dropping the clutch from ~ 4800 RPMs on 26x9" slicks, and for what its worth- the ET streets DEFINITELY hook better than BFG drag radials, however.. I could never drop the clutch, even from 3500 RPMs, my car would just spin.. Car aimed right for the tree when I broke loose doing one of my aforementioned easy launches..

[badatt]

I would definitely think about getting a line lock kit, hell I have one in my automatic race car now. The other thing is that around here we get cheap slicks from the circle guys and mount them on an old set of rims and when we go to the track we just switch them with our street tires. Most of the time street tires are not going to stick as well as the drag tires and if you do not "hook" your times are going to be disappointing. As far as the waterbox goes, some guys like myself roll thru the water but do not spin there tires there as this allows water to get up inside your wheel wells and once you leave the line this stored water may drop and hit your tires, so I just go past the water box and begin my burnout there. I start my car in second also then after the tires start smoking I shift it into third then I am done. It only takes between 10 and 15 second at the most.