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12-29-2004, 08:25 PM
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#1
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Got a pinion seal leak...
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WTF^^...
Join Date: May 2003
City: Birmingham / Florence
State: Alabama
Posts: 30,593
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found it today, any ideas on how much it should run, talked to a guy I know at ford, said an hour of labor plus the seal... so not to bad from the sound of that.
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12-29-2004, 09:25 PM
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#2
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Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2004
State: California
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this is the seal where the driveshaft meets the differential right? if so, replace it yourself its not a hard task. |
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12-31-2004, 12:39 AM
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#3
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so any update on this did u replace it? |
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12-31-2004, 12:51 AM
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#4
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WTF^^...
Join Date: May 2003
City: Birmingham / Florence
State: Alabama
Posts: 30,593
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gonna go early next week or the next and get her fixed.... |
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12-31-2004, 12:56 AM
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#5
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your gonna do the job yourself right? |
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12-31-2004, 06:43 PM
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#6
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WTF^^...
Join Date: May 2003
City: Birmingham / Florence
State: Alabama
Posts: 30,593
Thanks: 18
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im gonna get my friend sam to help this way I can help do it but wont screw up  |
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01-03-2005, 09:32 AM
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#7
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havn't you had rear end problems before? or was that someone else... 
__________________
1998 Subaru Legacy L Sedan
New Hottness 
1999 V6 5-speed
14.6 @ 95 w/ 2.22 60'
Wrecked 
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01-03-2005, 01:39 PM
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#8
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i think i remember him saying he broke his t-lok |
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01-03-2005, 03:06 PM
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#9
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WTF^^...
Join Date: May 2003
City: Birmingham / Florence
State: Alabama
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ive broke all kinds of stuff in my rear end this however was just wear and tear probably.... i dont abuse my car or have i been to the track or anything just something thats happend, im listening for any noises for a low fluid sign, nothing yet i think it will be fine till next week but its getting fixed then. |
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01-03-2005, 03:19 PM
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#10
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what is this bat you speak of?
Join Date: Aug 2003
City: San Angelo
State: Texas
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The 8.8 rear used a crush spacer to set pinion bearing preload. The correct way to replace a pinon seal is to replace the crush sleeve too. You have to torque the pinion nut down to several hundred foot pounds and measure preaload, then keep torqing the pinion nut down till you reach the preload spec, too far and you get to do it all over again with a new crush sleeve.
I doubt you got the tools to do it. This might be a case of letting the dealer do it is a good idea.
Or you can replace the crush sleeve with a solid spacer and shims.
http://www.ratechmfg.com/fordspbs.htm
Steve
__________________
1996 Mustang
1965 Barracuda
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01-03-2005, 03:59 PM
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#11
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WTF^^...
Join Date: May 2003
City: Birmingham / Florence
State: Alabama
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the guy thats helping me works at ford, so we will be doing it there with his tools i wouldnt do this in my driveway to much hassel and tqing it down would be a major pita. |
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01-03-2005, 06:24 PM
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#12
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I liek gramer
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__________________
Delta Sigma Phi - building better men since 1899
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01-03-2005, 06:27 PM
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#13
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if you have a lift., torquing= no problem |
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01-03-2005, 10:03 PM
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#14
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what is this bat you speak of?
Join Date: Aug 2003
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If you don't have spaghetti arms then 200+ ft/lbs of torque isn't tough.
This is definately one job where having the right tools is a virtual requirement.
Steve
__________________
1996 Mustang
1965 Barracuda
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01-03-2005, 10:54 PM
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#15
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WTF^^...
Join Date: May 2003
City: Birmingham / Florence
State: Alabama
Posts: 30,593
Thanks: 18
Thanked 196 Times in 184 Posts
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01-03-2005, 10:55 PM
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#16
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WTF^^...
Join Date: May 2003
City: Birmingham / Florence
State: Alabama
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Thanks: 18
Thanked 196 Times in 184 Posts
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i can do 200 ftlbs no problem lol i should have got a pic of brent trying to break a bolt loose when we were installing his s/s lol |
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01-04-2005, 08:23 PM
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#17
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what is this bat you speak of?
Join Date: Aug 2003
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So, is Brent's new nickname Spaghetti Arms?
__________________
1996 Mustang
1965 Barracuda
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01-04-2005, 09:04 PM
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#18
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WTF^^...
Join Date: May 2003
City: Birmingham / Florence
State: Alabama
Posts: 30,593
Thanks: 18
Thanked 196 Times in 184 Posts
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01-04-2005, 09:19 PM
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#19
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Registered User
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