brakes..

Fishers Stang · **brakes..**

OK Bla bla bla, Ihave a 98 6er, and my Brake light will flash once and a while, and also now it will stick on sometimes, i never use my ebrake, cause if you find a hill around here your lost. so ... my brakes prob need to be changed Very soon, but its cold and wet here, the one-2 times i drive my car in the month should i add fluid to my brakes *(cause its prob low) or just leave it till spring when i change my brakes and all that good stuff? i have a vid how the brake light is if you need to see.

WhiteStang99 · 01-11-2005, 11:18 AM

i think when u have low brake fluid, the light flashes.

Danger Dude · 01-11-2005, 11:18 AM

Typically when the Brake light flashes every now and then it is just low on fluid.

Just add some fluid!!!!!!

**SpectorV** · 01-11-2005, 04:42 PM

its low fluid, you may have a small leak.

Rick0636 · 01-11-2005, 09:17 PM

Yep, that thing is really sensitive to low fluid too, mine just came on a time or two on the GT when I hit the brakes hard, I checked the fluid, didn't really hardly even look low, but I topped it up and it hasn't come on since. I have Cobra brakes all around on her too, but the hydraulics part is still original. If there is a leak its really slow, that is the first time I have had to add fluid since way back in the summer when I bled them after installing the Cobra front brakes.

Danger Dude · 01-11-2005, 10:33 PM


Quote: Originally Posted by Rick0636 Yep, that thing is really sensitive to low fluid too, mine just came on a time or two on the GT when I hit the brakes hard, I checked the fluid, didn't really hardly even look low, but I topped it up and it hasn't come on since. I have Cobra brakes all around on her too, but the hydraulics part is still original. If there is a leak its really slow, that is the first time I have had to add fluid since way back in the summer when I bled them after installing the Cobra front brakes.

Actually as your brake pads wear the Caliper piston moves continually and with the size of the Cobra pistons as the pads wear that is more fluid displacing the piston moving forward than you imagine thus lowering the level of the master cylinder reservior!!!

lowflyn · 01-11-2005, 11:14 PM


Quote: Originally Posted by Danger Dude Actually as your brake pads wear the Caliper piston moves continually and with the size of the Cobra pistons as the pads wear that is more fluid displacing the piston moving forward than you imagine thus lowering the level of the master cylinder reservior!!!

Hm..I would have never thought about that..but it makes sense. So when he replaces his pads he'll be pushing fluid back out the top of his reservoir or else have to bleed alot out lol

Danger Dude · 01-11-2005, 11:37 PM

That is why you only fill it to the level mark. Then there is room for the extra fluid when you change pad pushing the fluid back into the master cylinder. Next time look at the level mark on the master cylinder. You will see there is ample room for more brake fluid.

Danger Dude · 01-11-2005, 11:46 PM

Rick another issue you might not have noticed is I believe your rotors are slotted. If they are you will only get about 70-75% of the life with the pads as compared to smooth rotors. That is the price for better stopping. As the rotors turn more of the pad is slowly carved away by the slots. But the slots provide for better stopping.

Fishers Stang · 01-13-2005, 08:49 AM

thanks guys, sorry about the day late look, my DSL went down do to flooding here, (and ya its rainin once more.) but last night i added fluid, it went away, but I still need to change the pads... thanks dudes

bigpomps · 01-13-2005, 05:05 PM

i just recently had that problem with my 00 stang. my light went on then put fluid in it so it went away. I checked for leaks and there was none but all the fluid was in the caliper cause my pads were worn down to over 1/8 of an inch. now i got some hawk hps pads and steeda stainless steel brake lines for better pedal response and its 10 times better. the brake lines are cheap and a direct fit. they are only around $75. it keeps from leaks and stops the hoses from expanded when braking so there is more pressure in the lines to increase stopping power.

Danger Dude · 01-13-2005, 05:12 PM

You are correct Stainless Brake lines are 100% better than standard brake hose. Actually as the Brakes wear the fluid fills the caliper not the other way around

97Stallion · 01-13-2005, 07:00 PM


Quote: Originally Posted by Fishers Stang OK Bla bla bla, Ihave a 98 6er, and my Brake light will flash once and a while, and also now it will stick on sometimes, i never use my ebrake, cause if you find a hill around here your lost. so ... my brakes prob need to be changed Very soon, but its cold and wet here, the one-2 times i drive my car in the month should i add fluid to my brakes *(cause its prob low) or just leave it till spring when i change my brakes and all that good stuff? i have a vid how the brake light is if you need to see.

You know what else is a VERY good mod brake wise? The dual piston PBRs that come on the newer V6's and GTs. You remove about 15lbs off the front end and you have better stopping power. You can usually find a set for about $100 or so. You go from steel single piston to alumnium dual piston. Also with dual pistons your rotors are not as likely to warp.

**SpectorV** · 01-13-2005, 07:16 PM

flat rotors stop better then drilled and slotted.... the price you pay is looks

Danger Dude · 01-13-2005, 07:32 PM

Actually Slotted rotors allow carbon gasses and brake dust to excape better Reducing what is refered to brake float where the pad is working against the gas and dust preventing pad to rotor contact and helping to induce brake fade. If you dont believe me look at the race car rotors. Now drilled rotors do nothing but reduce weight and that is a fact. They are lightning holes to make them lighter not for cooling or stopping. That is why motorcycles have drilled rotors simple a weight issue