stud replacement

[bloodyspirit058]

Some how during the process of switching tires before coming home from the track i messed up a stud and lug nut, i've never had to replace one before, but everyone i talk to makes it sound easy. I figured i would ask you guys for advice just to see if there were any time saving tips and/or tricks to replacing one of these. Its on a 94 gt if that makes any difference.

[PureVenom]

The one time I had to swap a stud out on Kyle's car it was snapped in half since the lug nut was actually stuck so bad it wouldn't come off and just ended up spinning the stud in the hole. We pounded out the bad stud, put the new one in, gave it a could hits with a hammer, and then pulled it the rest of the way in with a lug nut.

[iamdat]

front or rear. anyhow its the same procedure. remove wheel, remove brake caliper/bracket, remove rotor, knock stud out. install new one. get an extra lugnut to "suck up" the stud into place. make sure to put several washer between nut and hub.

[SaleenFiend]

ahh.. studs... brings back a horrible memory on my 01 Cobra.

I had just done a SRA swap and I knew I had a bad bushing on my upper control arm (drivers side - new ones were on order) Well one day I was on my way home and I kept hearing the clunking noise and it started to get worse. I got nervous. So, I got out looked around under the car checked everything out. I didn't find a problem. Well I was trying to limp home when all of a sudden something just popped and my rear end squatted on the drivers side. I get out to see my car sitting on the bottom of the rim. I had a shop rotate my tires and they didn't tighten the lugs up correctly on the rear driver. I had to change 3 studs on the side of the highway and get a new rim.

[iamdat]

ouch

[SpectorV]

I replaced 7 of my 10 in the rear weekend before last

getting them off is the hardest part, I had to have mine impacted off with 500ftlbs.... but after they are off (or broke lol) you just have to remove the brake caliper (two bolts) and then pull the rotor off, use a hammer and knock them out and put the new ones in (3 bucks from ford new~) mine cleared without having to remove the hub~ I could slide them in/out by just turning the hub to gain access to the hole.

Putting them back in will be best served with an impact gun. You will need two washers and an open lug nut. Use the washers with a bit of antiseeze on the base and stud threads and then put the lug nut on and use the impact to pull the stud through. Leave the rotor off as well for this step. After that your done, drive the car a few miles and check tq as they can get a little lose as they set~

Also put some antiseeze on the threads if it got worn when impacting to keep the lugs from having any issues.

[iamdat]

good time to upgrade! i got arp mondo long studs so my car looks like it might be quick.

[bloodyspirit058]

Quote: Originally Posted by iamdat good time to upgrade! i got arp mondo long studs so my car looks like it might be quick.

well i'm still working on getting them in, i decided since i bought two bolts, i had everything apart, i took out the one that looked worse than the other 3 so i have 2 new ones, but they are from autozone for fords lack of having them in stock, i think during more of the summer months i will upgrad all 20, but for now, 2 suck... also, its raining...

EDIT: i have em on there pretty close, with about 1/8 of an inch left on both of them but even tightening them with my 1/2in drive breaker bar its almost impossible for my neigher and i, my impact wrench proved useless, maybe ill try it again a little differntly

[dalltx]

dont disc's come with all of them ive never replaced any thing in like 10 years? great car beat up but nice

[Cobra GT]

You might want to spray you some penetrating oil on them and let them sit for a minute. Be careful not to bend you axel beating on them to hard.

[iamdat]

Quote: Originally Posted by dalltx dont disc's come with all of them ive never replaced any thing in like 10 years? great car beat up but nice

disc are separate on sn95's

[dalltx]

what my 94 looks like a 95 why is it diffrent?

[bloodyspirit058]

woot! about 6 hrs, random trips to differnt stores, an air hammer, a normal hammer, and one pos tool rental later i got everything back together, i had a ton of help from my buddy so i took him out to lunch well dinner if you wanna be technical. This morning started off so dry too...

If i do this again, or my next brake job i think i'm going to write a tutorial on the little stuff that goes wrong, i was realy surprised it needed some special tool (or screw driver and hammer if you can get it to turn, it was a pita w/ the tool) to depress the cyclinder back in, all the other disc brakes i've done it just pushes. ALSO! the notches in the turning part of the cylinder have to be lined up with the tiny pins on the pads which is really f'in retarded to find out on your own in the pouring rain, so for anyone that has to do this, make sure hte notches are straight up and down with the caliper assembly, that way it closes correctly.

All in all it was a great learning experience

[Cobra GT]

Quote: Originally Posted by dalltx what my 94 looks like a 95 why is it diffrent?

He's talking about the SN95 body style. The studs arn't in the rotors like you are thinking.

[bloodyspirit058]

i do have a question i forgot to ask earlier, what is the point of the gear looking thing right behind the metal plate holding the studs? there was just barely enough room to get bolts in and out (the process off getting them out and in wore down the threads, luckly in a spot taht is not used...)

another thing i learned while doing this... i need a bigger bfh... and in case you don't know, the h stands for hammer...

[PureVenom]

The gear looking thing is your speed sensor that the ABS system uses. I can't give you details on what it does, just that that is what it is....

[bloodyspirit058]

i'm guessing that little thing sticking out next to it is the sensor... i really hope i didn't f that up. (yes i touched it, i was curious what it did, hopefully touching it doesn't hurt it.)

[iamdat]

Quote: Originally Posted by PureVenom The gear looking thing is your speed sensor that the ABS system uses. I can't give you details on what it does, just that that is what it is....

negative, its the exciter ring that the speed sensor picks up on to determine wheel speed.

[Horse]

That Ring is called either a Tone Wheel or a Reluctor Wheel and the sensor is a magnet wrapped in copper wire. As the teeth in the wheel spin past the magnet it crates A/C voltage in the wire and that is read by the ABS computer. A drop in voltage indicates a drop in the speed that wheel is spinning and indicates a locked up wheel.

Touching the magnetic sensor is just fine. I wouldn't bash on it with a hammer or anything, but less than that should be fine. FYI, that ring is important too, missing or damaged teeth can cause the ABS to engage when not needed at low speed.

[bloodyspirit058]

Quote: Originally Posted by Horse Touching the magnetic sensor is just fine. I wouldn't bash on it with a hammer or anything, but less than that should be fine. FYI, that ring is important too, missing or damaged teeth can cause the ABS to engage when not needed at low speed.

well i studs don't come out with out missing up the very edge of the teeth... well the way i did it anyway...