Brakes and Suspension Upgrade

STEVE · 03-31-2005, 11:22 PM


Quote: Originally Posted by Danger Dude Actually the science behind slotted rotors is to allow the excaping of gasses and brake dust that glaze around the pad on smooth rotors. The slotts actually allow the dust and gasses to excape as they are swept away when passing the slots. The result is more positive braking..

That is gas fade. this also the reason why you see the fins on the rotor, to let gas escape.

Danger Dude · 11:25 PM


Quote: Originally Posted by McGrail482 should i replace the rear pads?

Typically you will have to change your rear brakes about every third front brake change.

So the answer is look and see how much pad is there. With cool brakes take your finger and feel how much pad is there if it seems to be more than a 1/4 of an inch you have quite a bit of life left in them

McGrail482 · 04-14-2005, 06:15 PM

Most of my stuff has come in: PBR Calipers, Front Pads, and Rotors. My paint is on back order and i want to make sure the stock lines will fit before i order the SS ones. So i pull off the tires and from what i can see there are only two bolts to get the calipers off and i spend about an hour trying to get those babies off but no luck

They look like they have never been off. Anyone have any ideas on how i can get them off?

Rick0636 · 04-15-2005, 12:09 AM

Long handled ratchet or ideally air tools are nice.

STEVE · 04-15-2005, 12:11 AM


Quote: Originally Posted by McGrail482 Most of my stuff has come in: PBR Calipers, Front Pads, and Rotors. My paint is on back order and i want to make sure the stock lines will fit before i order the SS ones. So i pull off the tires and from what i can see there are only two bolts to get the calipers off and i spend about an hour trying to get those babies off but no luck They look like they have never been off. Anyone have any ideas on how i can get them off?

breaker bar, or get your ratchet and attatch a tube through it to get better leverage.

McGrail482 · 04-15-2005, 10:31 PM

haha already tried the tube on the ratchet...im going to try again tom...is there anything i can spray on to loosen it up?

i tried WD40

STEVE · 04-15-2005, 11:48 PM


Quote: Originally Posted by McGrail482 haha already tried the tube on the ratchet...im going to try again tom...is there anything i can spray on to loosen it up? i tried WD40

get an impact wrench. dude you should be able to do it witha breaker bar, just put some muscle into it.

**SpectorV** · 04-16-2005, 10:55 AM


Quote: Originally Posted by Danger Dude Actually the science behind slotted rotors is to allow the excaping of gasses and brake dust that glaze around the pad on smooth rotors. The slotts actually allow the dust and gasses to excape as they are swept away when passing the slots. The result is more positive braking. The down side is longivity not being able to turn them. The best thing to do is if you get slotted brakes make sure the front pads are chamfered or beveled back and front.

new brake pads dont have gas fade issues, thus back in the old days when they did... slots and drilled holes did help, today they are for looks far more than performance, if you want true performance regular rotors are for you... you take slotted and drilled rotors to the track and rag on em they will get to hot and BAM ruined...

Danger Dude · 04-16-2005, 12:55 PM

Actually almost all brakes pads still have issues with gass build up unless they are chamfered or beveled. But the problem there is you lose 10% of the pad surface that does not even touch the rotor. The bonding make up of Kevlar or Semi metalic cause the gases. The only brake pad that does not is ceramic and as we all know creamic is crap on a street car and very poor in rain or extreme cold

STEVE · 04:46 PM


Quote: Originally Posted by SpectorV new brake pads dont have gas fade issues, thus back in the old days when they did... slots and drilled holes did help, today they are for looks far more than performance, if you want true performance regular rotors are for you... you take slotted and drilled rotors to the track and rag on em they will get to hot and BAM ruined...

umm no, new brake pads still do have gas fade issues, why do you think the rotors have fins in the middle of the two sides. the holes and slots still do help. when you take slotted and drilled rotors to the track people get line lock so they wont warp or crack the rotors. and if you are just a drag racer, well adding better bigger brakes isnt great since you add weight. but gase fade still exist in most cars out there. i dont know how you drew the conclusion that new brakes dont have gase fade.

**SpectorV** · 04-16-2005, 07:22 PM


Quote: Originally Posted by 232stang umm no, new brake pads still do have gas fade issues, why do you think the rotors have fins in the middle of the two sides. the holes and slots still do help. when you take slotted and drilled rotors to the track people get line lock so they wont warp or crack the rotors. and if you are just a drag racer, well adding better bigger brakes isnt great since you add weight. but gase fade still exist in most cars out there. i dont know how you drew the conclusion that new brakes dont have gase fade.

they have slots in the middle of each side to help keep them cool. A line lock doesnt help at an autox track, thats what I was talking about, you autox in a set of slotted and drilled rotors you are asking for trouble... that is if you push your car.

Danger Dude · 04-16-2005, 07:34 PM


Quote: Originally Posted by 232stang umm no, new brake pads still do have gas fade issues, why do you think the rotors have fins in the middle of the two sides. the holes and slots still do help. when you take slotted and drilled rotors to the track people get line lock so they wont warp or crack the rotors. and if you are just a drag racer, well adding better bigger brakes isnt great since you add weight. but gase fade still exist in most cars out there. i dont know how you drew the conclusion that new brakes dont have gase fade.

Actually the holes are really to lighten the rotor more than anything else. They might provide a small amount of cooling but for racing purpose it was for reduced weight.

STEVE · 04-16-2005, 08:08 PM


Quote: Originally Posted by SpectorV they have slots in the middle of each side to help keep them cool. A line lock doesnt help at an autox track, thats what I was talking about, you autox in a set of slotted and drilled rotors you are asking for trouble... that is if you push your car.

i was talking about line lock for drage racing. and the slots in the middle do help them keep them cool as well as help prevent gas fade.

STEVE · 04-16-2005, 08:09 PM


Quote: Originally Posted by Danger Dude Actually the holes are really to lighten the rotor more than anything else. They might provide a small amount of cooling but for racing purpose it was for reduced weight.

the holes help alot with cooling, less heat means less fade.

Danger Dude · 04-16-2005, 08:18 PM


Quote: Originally Posted by 232stang the holes help alot with cooling, less heat means less fade.

Actually when using a heat probe drilled rotors did not get significantly cooler. However you can cut about 10% of the weight of a rotor and reduce centrifical and gyroscopic effect anytime you lower the spinning weight of the wheel assembly.

STEVE · 04-16-2005, 08:32 PM


Quote: Originally Posted by Danger Dude Actually when using a heat probe drilled rotors did not get significantly cooler. However you can cut about 10% of the weight of a rotor and reduce centrifical and gyroscopic effect anytime you lower the spinning weight of the wheel assembly.

we did a lab on this (brakes class) about 4 months ago we had drilled rotors on one side of the fron of the car and regular on the other, then we did a road test . after that we used our thermometer equiped multi meters to measure the heat And the slotted rotor was significantly less. this was on a 99 suburban (donated to the school by GM). dont know if its different on stangs though.

Danger Dude · 04-16-2005, 08:40 PM

Was the Rotor Vented or solid. Were the holes straight or angled. What type of rims or did it have hubcaps. In working with Volve racing we found vented rotors also did nothing and unless the holes were angle drilled aft to the oposite of rotation cooling was minimal.

STEVE · 04-16-2005, 08:44 PM

yep the were angled he said if they were straight it would just get in the way of the other pad (the gas). the rotors were vented. and the it was a rim with just tiny holes, i believe it is the rim that comes on saffaris because they are just like my moms van rims.
im guessing the wieght of the vehicle played a big part in this?

Danger Dude · 04-16-2005, 09:27 PM


Quote: Originally Posted by 232stang yep the were angled he said if they were straight it would just get in the way of the other pad (the gas). the rotors were vented. and the it was a rim with just tiny holes, i believe it is the rim that comes on saffaris because they are just like my moms van rims. im guessing the wieght of the vehicle played a big part in this?

Exactly Straight hole offer limited cooling and every Mustang rotor I have seen has straight holes. Also the word Vented Rotor is also a joke. The fact rotors that are vented are cheaper because it uses less metal. A solid Rotor the same width is heavier and more costly but it withstands warping better.

STEVE · 04-16-2005, 10:12 PM


Quote: Originally Posted by Danger Dude Exactly Straight hole offer limited cooling and every Mustang rotor I have seen has straight holes. Also the word Vented Rotor is also a joke. The fact rotors that are vented are cheaper because it uses less metal. A solid Rotor the same width is heavier and more costly but it withstands warping better.

even the cobra brakes have straight holes? well thats gay.