need stereo guru help

[02flstang]

ok, I have an mb quart rsb328 component kit (2- 6.5", 2- 4's, and 2- tweeters and 2 crossovers). I understand the front and rear sizes are 5x7 and 6x8's...I really don't want to get rid of these but can anyone think of a way they can fit?? They are mounted on custom plates (3 speakers per) and they fit great in my 98 dodge ram front doors but it doesn't seem like it can work in the mustang. so basically I'm looking for ideas..I'm not opposed to adding a set of 5x7's for the rear if anyone thinks I can fit the above mentioned speakers and crossovers in the door somehow without a sawzall.

and ideas?

thanks in advance

[STEVE]

i think the only way to do it is by busting out the sawsall

[WhiteStang99]

sawzall looks like ur only option....

[Brent]

Quote: Originally Posted by 02flstang ok, I have an mb quart rsb328 component kit (2- 6.5", 2- 4's, and 2- tweeters and 2 crossovers). I understand the front and rear sizes are 5x7 and 6x8's...I really don't want to get rid of these but can anyone think of a way they can fit?? They are mounted on custom plates (3 speakers per) and they fit great in my 98 dodge ram front doors but it doesn't seem like it can work in the mustang. so basically I'm looking for ideas..I'm not opposed to adding a set of 5x7's for the rear if anyone thinks I can fit the above mentioned speakers and crossovers in the door somehow without a sawzall. and ideas? thanks in advance

www.crutchfield.com has custom kick panels you can buy for your stang. I think they make them for 6.5" speakers

[01GTType]

Your best option would be to run the tweeters in the stock Mach spot then run then buy sizing plates where the 5x7's go and install the 4" midrange there and buy a set of kickplates for the 6.5 woofers. This way they have plenty of seperation and should sound good.

[02flstang]

Quote: Originally Posted by 01GTType Your best option would be to run the tweeters in the stock Mach spot then run then buy sizing plates where the 5x7's go and install the 4" midrange there and buy a set of kickplates for the 6.5 woofers. This way they have plenty of seperation and should sound good.

I don't have the mach system. the only problem I see with seperating them is I lose the use of the crossover for the 6.5's. I think I will end up keeping the components in the plate they are mounted in and cutting the door a little then just adding another set of 5x7's for the rear.

thanks for the suggestions.

[Stangthang]

A 6.5" speaker will fit in your doors with a easy wood baffle, then mount your 4" in kicks and mount you tweeters in the sail panels or on the dash, there is no reason you would have to remove the crossover if you seperate the speakers off the plate.

[Dom]

He's got a point. Might have to do some fiberglass work with the sail panel.

[02flstang]

Quote: Originally Posted by Stangthang A 6.5" speaker will fit in your doors with a easy wood baffle, then mount your 4" in kicks and mount you tweeters in the sail panels or on the dash, there is no reason you would have to remove the crossover if you seperate the speakers off the plate.

what is the "sail panel"? is this the a pillar?

[lowflyn]

The sail panel is the little black panel directly on the inside of your side mirrors. This is the stock mounting point for the Mach 460 tweeters. As far as the others go...hm....I know the 6 1/2's will fit in the door with little problem, but I think I'd rather put them in custom kick panels if it was me. And I'd put the 4's in the door with either a piece of wood or if you know someone who can do some minor metal work, have them make you a mounting bracket. As far as breaking the components up off your current back plate, this shouldn't be a problem, and the distance from the crossover shouldn't matter to an extent, as long as this distance isn't so far that you lose the effectiveness of speaker cable (like over 20 feet). You should be fine seperating all of this. If I was to run this setup in my car, I would run new wiring from my headunit to my doors and from my headunit to my rear deck since you are replacing them all. I know in my car, I ran wiring from the deck to my trunk, then from the trunk all the way up to the front speakers and the rear speakers so I can run them all off of amps. This takes forever and running the wiring through the door grommet will drive you crazy, but once you finish it's all worth it.
With speakers like that I would recommend changing from the stock headunit as well. Those speakers will handle a pretty good amount of wattage.
Any more questions just ask, I'd have to be in this situtation to know exactly what I'd do, but I'll tell you this much, I took a dremel to the back deck of my old car to fit in 6x9's, and as soon as my new 6x9's for the stang come in, I'm gonna dremel it up to a 6x9 space.

[WhiteStang99]

I dunno how right the term sail panel is, cuz that's what the ford techs called the part of my car the arrow is pointing to when they had to replace it. I have since heard it called the C Pillar tho.

[lowflyn]

That would be your C-pillar. The A-pillar is the windshield pillar, B-pillar is the one right behind the door, and C-pillar is the rear roof pillar.

[WhiteStang99]

thought so, just wanted confirmation that my ford techs are retarded.

[Dom]

Maybe they wanted you to buy the actual C-Pillar?

[lowflyn]

You come up with an idea yet?

[Dom]

I've seen the tweeter mounted in the red area on the picture, too. I thought that was different.

[WhiteStang99]

Quote: Originally Posted by Dom Maybe they wanted you to buy the actual C-Pillar?

I just glassed it and had them paint it.

[lowflyn]

Quote: Originally Posted by Dom I've seen the tweeter mounted in the red area on the picture, too. I thought that was different.

You could mount it anywhere.

[SpectorV]

tweeters