putting in clutch

cjd10 · **putting in clutch**

getting ready to put my clutch in this weekend is there any advise tthaat you think i should know i would apreciate it. hopefully it will be pretty smooth sailing.

i've only done two clutches so it might take me a while. i ended up going with the Ram clutch stg 1 all i will ever need. any advise will be rgeatly apreciated thanks guys

01mineralgrey6 · 04-14-2005, 01:03 PM

Take your time. Did the clutch kit come with a alignment tool??

cjd10 · 04-14-2005, 01:06 PM

yeah i got all the goodys. i need to change my header gaskets too and since i have to drop my exhaust i figured good time to do it, but some of those bolts are impossible i dont know if it is because i have shorties or its just like that.

01mineralgrey6 · 04-14-2005, 01:43 PM


Quote: Originally Posted by cjd10 yeah i got all the goodys. i need to change my header gaskets too and since i have to drop my exhaust i figured good time to do it, but some of those bolts are impossible i dont know if it is because i have shorties or its just like that.

i put shortys on my 01 v6 and they were a pita a few bolts i just fought with, that and the upper o2 sensor on the pass. side

Good luck though

**SpectorV** · 04-14-2005, 01:49 PM

its rather easy if you take your time and have alot of time to take.

I would start off by getting the body on stands pretty high up, but not an unsafe height.... then drain the tranny fluid and remove the shifter. Remove the drive shaft next.

Support the tranny with a jack, strap the tranny down to the jack good. Remove the 4 bolts holding the tranny to the bell housing, remove the vss sensor and make sure all connections are removed on the tranny from the car (should be it) then pull the tranny back, its stubborn at first just keep messing with it but dont be to forceful it will eventually come out, then lower the jack and slide the tranny to the side.

Cant remember if you need to remove the starter or not... i would though and take the flywheel off and resurface it.. best time to spend 10 bucks to do it...

remove the bellhousing and then remove the clutch follow specs EXTREMLY good when putting on new parts you MUST MUST MUST MUST MUST MUST tq the bolts to stock spec using a star pattern to evenly distribute the tq on the bolts then DOUBLE CHECK it all....

i HIGHLY recomment replacing the fork arm, pivot ball stud, throwout bearing, pilot bearing, and flywheel IF it cant be machined.

STEVE · 04-14-2005, 06:50 PM


Quote: Originally Posted by SpectorV its rather easy if you take your time and have alot of time to take. I would start off by getting the body on stands pretty high up, but not an unsafe height.... then drain the tranny fluid and remove the shifter. Remove the drive shaft next. Support the tranny with a jack, strap the tranny down to the jack good. Remove the 4 bolts holding the tranny to the bell housing, remove the vss sensor and make sure all connections are removed on the tranny from the car (should be it) then pull the tranny back, its stubborn at first just keep messing with it but dont be to forceful it will eventually come out, then lower the jack and slide the tranny to the side. Cant remember if you need to remove the starter or not... i would though and take the flywheel off and resurface it.. best time to spend 10 bucks to do it... remove the bellhousing and then remove the clutch follow specs EXTREMLY good when putting on new parts you MUST MUST MUST MUST MUST MUST tq the bolts to stock spec using a star pattern to evenly distribute the tq on the bolts then DOUBLE CHECK it all.... i HIGHLY recomment replacing the fork arm, pivot ball stud, throwout bearing, pilot bearing, and flywheel IF it cant be machined.

that does not have to be replaced if the tranny is running smoothly.

1997grnstang · 04-14-2005, 07:11 PM

take your time! and make sure it has an alignment tool

19ClearCobra96 · 04-14-2005, 07:50 PM

I plan on doing mine next weekend so post results if you would and any helpful hints.

cjd10 · 04-14-2005, 08:05 PM

will do thanks for the results guys ill keep you posted and picks if i can

STEVE · 04-14-2005, 08:06 PM

if you can please do a write up, i would love to sticky a good write up on the suspension and drivetrain forum.

red pony V6 · 05-08-2005, 05:00 PM

i just replaced mine a couple of days ago. actually a buddy of mine did because he knew what he was doing, and i don't. but i watched and learned quite a bit in the process. took us about 4 hrs or so. luckily he knew a guy who had a lift so we were able to stand under it which made it 100 times easier!

19ClearCobra96 · 05-08-2005, 06:34 PM

I finished mine on wednesday. went smoothly except for the pilot bearing was a Pain in the Ass. This is the write up I used.

Clutch install.

1. Disconnect battery
2. Remove shifter lever (or complete shifter)
3. Jack up vehicle and place on four jack stands (as high as possible)
4. Disconnect all four 02 sensors
5. Spray h-pipe bolts with WD40 or whatever, let set for 20 min,
6. Remove h-pipe
7. Remove starter (3 bolts) �� socket
8. Drain tranny fluid and re-install drain plug when the tranny has been completely drained
9. Remove the drive shaft (use a 12mm 12 point socket to remove the four DS bolts and apply orientation marks so that the DS is re-installed exatly from the same area it was removed.
10. Remove all the electrical wiring from the tranny, (vehicle speed sensor, clutch cable ect...ect..)
11. Remove the two tranny cross member side bolts and let the transmission sit at an angle, this will make it very easy to access the two top tranny bolts. Remove the two top tranny bolts. (long extension needed)
12. Re-install the tranny cross member to its normal location and slide the two cross member bolts on..(do not thread the stationary nuts back on.
13. Remove the rest of the tranny BH bolts.
14. Remove the two cross member side bolts and make sure your in a good position to wrestle the tranny off..let it rest on your chest and roll over.
15. Remove the PP, and FW�Clean the threads on the PP and FW bolts with a wire brush.
16. Remove pilot bearing (slide hammer and pulley kit needed)
17 . Re-install new pilot bearing and add bearing grease to the new pilot bearing
18. Install the freshly turned FW, add red loctite to the FW bolts and snug in a criss-cross pattern, then do a finishing torque of 65 ft-lb.
19. Clean the flywheel surface with Acetone
20. Clean the PP rotor surface with Acetone and place the clutch disk in the proper orientation to the PP rotor..
21. Install the clutch alignment tool then place the PP and clutch disk to the FW, and add red loctite to the PP bolts and install the bolts until the PP and clutch disk has seated to the FW.
22. Loosen the PP bolts � turn then torque the PP bolts down first to 15ftlb, then do a finishing torque of 28 ft-lb.
23. Look to make sure the PP, and Clutch disk are concentric�If everything looks good re-install the tranny with a new clutch release fork ($30 from ford) and a new TB and make sure your generous in greasing the prongs on the clutch release fork and the TB bore.
24. Re-install the tranny
25 . Re-install the Drive shaft (use red loctite on DS bolts and torque to 90 ft-lb).
26. Remove the fill plug on the tranny..you cant fill it from the shifter area and fill until tranny fluid seeps from the tranny filler hole.

red pony V6 · 05-12-2005, 01:26 PM

whenever i got mine installed a couple of weeks ago i just bought a kit from auto zone. should i be kicking myself in the ass for not getting a performance clutch of some kind like a cobra cluth kit? i paid about $180 for it and i didn't wanna spend too much more than that.

cjd10 · 05-12-2005, 05:26 PM

i would kick myself if i were you lol. i he had agood write up. i had no problems except a tranny to the mouth when it slipped off finally. hurt like a b*tch. other wise went very smooth no problems shifting. grips well and quite a bit more stought than stock. as of right now i am very happy with the grip force if i have any problems i will keep yall informed. took a few extra weeks

but it was only a 5.5 hour process