auto-x class...

tedness · **auto-x class...**

well this sucks. by adding the short shifter and wider wheels to my car i just upped my class from stock to street touring X.

if i go back to the 15's for the track i could be back down to the street touring S or U classification but i wouldn't see the same results.

but now i'm in there with anything with up to a 5.0L engine w/ an LSD....

Zim · 05-04-2005, 12:36 AM

STX is a great class to be in!!! I ran that in my v6 and was beating 5.0s thanks to my suspension

Thomas91169 · 05-04-2005, 01:49 AM

wow so adding a better shifter and wheel spacers are enough to bump you up a class?

id do autoX but theres too much class bullshit. i cant even go to the dragstrip cause its a convertible. i think i need to find a 1g awd shell and drop in a 2.4L 6bolt and GT35R and a TRE tranny and full Tein Coilovers and see where they put me. "umm sir youll be going against the mclaren f1 today, good luck"

dr10129 · 05-04-2005, 02:15 AM

EclipseGSTdude make sure it has a 4 bolt rear end. I beleive the 92's all had them. don't really need a 2.4, a 2.0 would be fine but a 2.4 would be nice. true the gt35r is twin ball bairing but it still might be a little big for auto-x. the 2.4 might help that a little bit. as far as trannys go. TRE makes GREAT trannys but I would personally get Shepherd to build one for you. Also get a roll bar for your spyder and have some fun man.

Thomas91169 · 05-04-2005, 02:20 AM

spyder=fwd=teh suxors.

2.4l will spool even a large bb turbo like the gt35 at 3.5-4k. plus the added displacement helps the low end torque under the boost curve. not that ill ever do it, im just saying thats the class id be in.

Kiljosh · 05-04-2005, 02:07 PM

dr10129 · 05-05-2005, 12:51 AM

I know. and I know the 2.4 would hlep with spooling that turbo but it's a little big for auto-x, too high till boost. Oh and I said 4 bolt rear end bc its not only stonger but its got an LSD as well. By the way, nice car. I'm not into neons or show but you did use nice stuff, Audiobaun. just get a roll bar, have some fun with it. ya I would rather have a GSX rather than a GST spyder but you can still have some fun, you don't need it but sticks would be nice. how much power are you putting down? and how are those 550's and the wally 190 working together? most use a 255 so I'm wondering how well its running I know u have a s-afc2 for that but I know you would get a bit more power out of a 255. also how much boost are you running?

lowflyn · 05-05-2005, 07:19 PM

OK, I'm lost...

**SpectorV** · 05-05-2005, 08:07 PM

that sucks... i mean the rims you have are oem... for a gt wtf...

Thomas91169 · 05-05-2005, 09:24 PM

w00t the thread is officially hijacked

the difference in 3 bolt and 4 bolt rears are only when youre talking about launching(i.e. 1/4 track). not all 4 bolts are lsd equipped. the 4bolts are able to take more abuse than the 3 bolts, thus why theyre more widely used, since most get a awd to launch the shit out of it.

the 190lph is a great fuel pump, because it does not overrun the stock fpr and is still able to keep the stock 45psi in the fuel rail, which is the fuel pumps job, to keep the fuel rail fed. if i had bigger injectors(680+) i will need a bigger fuel pump, cause the injectors will actually stay open long enoug to starve the fuel rail of fuel, thus running lean, thus blowing stuff up. the 255 iw what id get, but also with the 255 you need a bigger fpr, or you will run so totally rich youd kick yourself in the ass.

some with the same setup as me have put down around 350whp on pump, and more on higher octane and more boost and better tuning. im shooting for anything over 300 whenever i get a chance to dyno, so if i hit the 300 mark ill be happy.

and i looked into rollbars, and decided against it. my goal is to get kicked off the track for running way too fast for a convertible.

dr10129 · 05-06-2005, 11:39 AM

this is true but I did say a 92, the 92's have a 4 bolt rear end that comes with a lsd. you did say you wanted to drag too. I'm not saying the 190 isn't a good pump. all I'm saying is you can run a 255 and tune it with the afc, I have seen/worked on plenty that have a wally 255 stock FPR with a afc and have run perfectly if you did upgrade your FPR buschur has an awesome one. so how much hp/tq are you throwing down? and boost?

Thomas91169 · 05-06-2005, 04:28 PM

if youre running a 255 with stock fpr you are overrunning it, the stock fpr isnt good enough to keep the pressure at a even 45psi. this will lead to very inaccurate tuning.

my buddy was "tuned" on a 255 without a fpr, and when he finally got one holy shit was his car way off, because he was running rich all the time, and with the fpr doing its job it was way on the lean side.

the only fpr i will get is the aeromotive one. unlike most fpr that only allow an increase in fuel pressure, the aeromotive will allow you to turn down the pressure, and keep it at 45psi(or 38psi for 1g's).

right now im at 18-20psi(i think) on a evo16g. i say i think cause when i got my boost gauge in, it was miscalibrated -5psi. so when the car is off it reads -5. so it says 15psi at full boost which should really be 20 since its off. a few people say thats not the case, if its off by -5 when the car is off, its off alot more the farther the needle travels. im still waiting for SpeedHut to get EGT gauges then im going to get a whole custom setup of matching gauges from them.

dr10129 · 05-08-2005, 12:46 AM

buschurs BR/SX does all that an aeromotive will do but it bolts right up to a 1 fuel rail, no fab work need. and yes I know you have a 2g but a 1g rail is better and inexpensive. see if u can barrow a boost gauge from someone what has one sitting around and test it out. my brother was in the market for a 67-69 camaro but can't find one, so hes most likly going to get a 2g and built it up again, its going to be nice to have a dsm in the family again.

Zim · 03:24 AM

sweet

Thomas91169 · 05-08-2005, 04:22 AM


Quote: buschurs BR/SX does all that an aeromotive will do but it bolts right up to a 1 fuel rail, no fab work need. and yes I know you have a 2g but a 1g rail is better and inexpensive.

hmm the aeromotive is just as easy, take off the stock fpr from the rail, put the outlet from the fpr into it and connect the inlet to the fpr(we used SS braided lines too), mount the fpr to the body(up by the brake fluid res.) and turn the car on.

as far as i know, there is no difference between 1g and 2g fuel rails in terms of flow. the 1g runs fuel pressure at 38psi, and the 2g runs its fuel pressure at 45psi. you unplug the vacuum line from the FPR and adjust it to whatever your car is. then plug the vacuum line back in. set it and forget it.

took us about a hour to install on my freinds FP58 powered gst. made a world of difference as far as tuning. when he hit boost it would richen itself out cause the fpr would overrun and run rich and get what we think is "rich knock", where the car runs so rich the ecu pulls timing for the first 400rpm the turbo hit full boost, after that it would even itself out. with the fpr that was eliminated and we could tune the car alot better.