Welcome to Mustang Evolution.
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07-02-2005, 12:09 AM
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#1
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Punch a hole in my oil pan for my vortech
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Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2005
City: Eagle Pass
State: Texas
Posts: 21
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Well i decided to go with a vortech supercharger to run 14's i already did everything installed all that needs to be installed but i got stuck where you need to punch a hole in your oil pan it looks like its risky, cause you might punch a bigger whole. So i was wondering is there another way of doing this without punching a whole in my oil pan. any of yall have pics of the hole or of the installion.
oh one more thing whats the stock size of the injectors for a 98 v6?
Thanks
Last edited by danstang; 07-02-2005 at 12:22 AM.
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07-02-2005, 12:25 AM
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#2
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I can has Mustang?
Join Date: May 2003
City: Huntsville
State: Alabama
Posts: 26,856
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Stock size is 14#
Dunno the answer to the first question
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07-02-2005, 12:52 AM
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#3
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Fuck off
Join Date: Apr 2004
State: Europe
Posts: 9,189
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drill the hole with a PROPER sized drill bit, just compare it with the line that goes into tha hole and amke sure the bit is just a bit smaller.
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07-02-2005, 10:05 AM
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#4
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The 4.2L Guy/Moderator
Join Date: Nov 2003
City: Scumter; Home: Chicago, IL
State: South Carolina
Posts: 2,029
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You have NO other way of doing this. The reason for this hole it because Vortechs use oil, and the hole is so the line can drain the used oil back into the oil pan. What I would do is take off your timing cover. Mask off the inside with tape or rags so the shavings won't go into the oil. This way you can make sure you get all the aluminum shavings out and won't have to worry bout it.
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60' ~ 2.1, 1/8 ~ 9.61 @ 73.4mph
Living one day at a time!
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07-02-2005, 12:55 PM
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#5
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jdm mustang dori
Join Date: Oct 2004
City: Tallahassee
State: Florida
Posts: 2,121
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14#? i thought they were 19#...or is that on mine....
i miss the blower...
__________________
1999 Rio Red Mustang - 'Car Ramrod'
17x8 GT Wheels - 180º Thermostat - 25% UDP - 6000K HIDs - Billet Shifter Bushings - Bullitt Fuel Door - CAI - Clear Corner Headlights
Mach 1 13" Brakes - Mach 1 Catback - Nitto NT555 Tires - PCV Filter - Pypes Off-Road X-Pipe - S/S Brake Lines - X2 Balljoints
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07-02-2005, 04:09 PM
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#6
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I need bolts
Join Date: Oct 2004
City: Dallas PA
State: Pennsylvania
Posts: 3,418
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19's on 99-04
When you do drill, do it slow. Use a drill with different speeds if you can. The slower you go the less chance you have of pushing through and sending all the shavings caught in the bit into the oil pan. I would suggest doing what rob said. 
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07-02-2005, 05:14 PM
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#7
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Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2003
Posts: 984
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like was said..drill slow and even use some drill lubricant. It will help to keep all the shaving together and out of the pan.
__________________
1998 Subaru Legacy L Sedan
New Hottness
1999 V6 5-speed
14.6 @ 95 w/ 2.22 60'
Wrecked
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07-02-2005, 05:24 PM
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#8
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WTF^^...
Join Date: May 2003
City: Hoover / Florence
State: Alabama
Posts: 26,866
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i would take the pan off... you do NOT want to get metal shavings in your oil...
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2003 REDFIRE COBRA #3938 of 5082 @ 05/27/2003 1 of 414
Polished Borla Stingers, MGW Shifter, JLT CAI, SS Inserts, MM FLSFC, MM CC Plates,
10th Anniv Brakes, SS Lines, H&R Race springs, IRS Brace, MRT Hood Struts
ME.com Member #29 - 400rwhp/380rwtq
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07-02-2005, 05:40 PM
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#9
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Ero-Sennin
Join Date: Jul 2003
City: Murfreesboro
State: Tennessee
Posts: 4,539
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should have gone procharger. they have their own internal oil supply
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I don't own a mustang at the moment
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07-02-2005, 07:07 PM
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#10
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WTF^^...
Join Date: May 2003
City: Hoover / Florence
State: Alabama
Posts: 26,866
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I would go turbo  3400 bucks~  anything you do will be great... just tap that hole and dont get shavings in your motor.
__________________
2003 REDFIRE COBRA #3938 of 5082 @ 05/27/2003 1 of 414
Polished Borla Stingers, MGW Shifter, JLT CAI, SS Inserts, MM FLSFC, MM CC Plates,
10th Anniv Brakes, SS Lines, H&R Race springs, IRS Brace, MRT Hood Struts
ME.com Member #29 - 400rwhp/380rwtq
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07-03-2005, 03:06 AM
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#11
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Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2005
City: Eagle Pass
State: Texas
Posts: 21
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Yeah i was thinking of the procharger but it comes with 11 psi and didnt know if my 96k v6 would handle that kind of boost. would it be able to handle it
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07-03-2005, 12:46 PM
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#12
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WTF^^...
Join Date: May 2003
City: Hoover / Florence
State: Alabama
Posts: 26,866
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they have a 9psi pulley you can use as well.
__________________
2003 REDFIRE COBRA #3938 of 5082 @ 05/27/2003 1 of 414
Polished Borla Stingers, MGW Shifter, JLT CAI, SS Inserts, MM FLSFC, MM CC Plates,
10th Anniv Brakes, SS Lines, H&R Race springs, IRS Brace, MRT Hood Struts
ME.com Member #29 - 400rwhp/380rwtq
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07-03-2005, 01:01 PM
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#13
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jdm mustang dori
Join Date: Oct 2004
City: Tallahassee
State: Florida
Posts: 2,121
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the 9psi is better on the older v6 blocks.
__________________
1999 Rio Red Mustang - 'Car Ramrod'
17x8 GT Wheels - 180º Thermostat - 25% UDP - 6000K HIDs - Billet Shifter Bushings - Bullitt Fuel Door - CAI - Clear Corner Headlights
Mach 1 13" Brakes - Mach 1 Catback - Nitto NT555 Tires - PCV Filter - Pypes Off-Road X-Pipe - S/S Brake Lines - X2 Balljoints
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07-10-2005, 10:29 PM
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#14
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Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2004
City: PA
Posts: 13
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It took me 6 hours on a creeper to pull and reinstall my oil pan, and when you are done you need an alignment because you have to drop the k-member to make room. I would follow the directions and be careful, pulling the pan SUCKS!!
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07-11-2005, 02:45 PM
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#15
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Banned
Join Date: Jun 2003
City: Severn, MD
State: Maryland
Posts: 3,920
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still need a drainback for a turbo 
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07-12-2005, 01:07 PM
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#16
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Super Six Motorsports
Join Date: Mar 2005
City: Darlington
State: South Carolina
Posts: 173
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First off you need to use a roto-broach not a drill bit. Its like a hole saw and allows you to cut the hole to the exact size and keep the cut material out of the pan.
I would also suggest that you have a bung tig welded to the pan as there isn't much material there to tap for the piece to thread in to.
Its not hard to do but you need to take your time and do it right the first time. The bung will help you out HUGELY. 
__________________
96 GT 4.6 L
Ported 2004 Upper Plenum
B&M Shifter
Bassini O/R X Pipe
FRPP Adjustable Clutch Cable
UPR Extreme Triple Hook Quadrant
UPR Extreme Firewall Adjuster
Ford 11"Clutch Conversion
C&L MAF
WMS CAI
Aluminum Drive Shaft
95 V6 Vert: 4.2L swap, Trac Lock, Light Cam, Mac Shrorty Headers, More to come.
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07-12-2005, 11:23 PM
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#17
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The 4.2L Guy/Moderator
Join Date: Nov 2003
City: Scumter; Home: Chicago, IL
State: South Carolina
Posts: 2,029
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AlmostN8
First off you need to use a roto-broach not a drill bit. Its like a hole saw and allows you to cut the hole to the exact size and keep the cut material out of the pan.
I would also suggest that you have a bung tig welded to the pan as there isn't much material there to tap for the piece to thread in to.
Its not hard to do but you need to take your time and do it right the first time. The bung will help you out HUGELY. 
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I agree with this about 1000%. If you get a bung welded to your oilpan, you'll add some extra material and you'll get a more positive seal when you tap the hole.
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60' ~ 2.1, 1/8 ~ 9.61 @ 73.4mph
Living one day at a time!
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07-13-2005, 07:31 PM
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#18
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Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2005
City: elyria
State: Ohio
Posts: 15
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start with a small tap and work your way up in size. i wouldn't advise using a drill because of the shavings. use some grease on the tap to catch the shavings from the tap. turn the tap slowly in and out so the shavings stick to the grease. change the oil right after tapping the pan if you do it with the pan on the car. you can also buy an oil plug with a magnet on the inside end to help catch any metal in the oil.
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07-13-2005, 07:54 PM
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#19
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The 4.2L Guy/Moderator
Join Date: Nov 2003
City: Scumter; Home: Chicago, IL
State: South Carolina
Posts: 2,029
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While this is true, aluminum is not magnetic, so it will not be caught by the magnet. I don't know how much I can stress that I would definately remove your timing cover. You'll be able to have access to both sides of where you're working and you'll also be able to ensure you remove all the debris you will be creating and you won't have to be as careful while punching the hole and tapping it. I not saying that you can do this care-free. I'm saying you don't have to be extremely cautious that you get all the shaving on the outside of the pan. If you place a rag on the back side of the hole you drilled, then you'll be all good and will be able to look physically if you got all the shaving instead of hoping.
Definately sure = 100% safe
Pretty sure = 1-99% safe
Not sure = not safe
__________________

60' ~ 2.1, 1/8 ~ 9.61 @ 73.4mph
Living one day at a time!
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07-20-2005, 08:21 PM
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#20
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Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2005
Posts: 27
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it isnt that hard
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07-20-2005, 08:28 PM
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#21
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Taking life one day at a time
Join Date: May 2003
City: Simpsonville
State: South Carolina
Posts: 10,956
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No 21's on 99+ v6's
19's were on 5.0 and 4.6's till 98
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