what's the truth on lowering springs???

[I_luv_HP&trq]

Ok several of the websites i've been to offering v6 suspension items say that if i don't go lower then 1.5 inches, then i don't need to worry about c/c plates or special shocks/struts. I just measured the gap from the center of the wheel well to the top of the tire and it's 3 inches. (keep in mind i have 18 inch wheels.) I realized i really don't want to ever go lower then 1.5 inches. Is it absolutely neccesary for me to get c/c plates right away or can i get them further down the road? and can i keep my stock s/s until i feel they have served their purpose? my car is a '99 also.

[STEVE]

if you lower 1.5 inches yeah youll need the plates fast because if not your alignment will be off and your front tires will wear out FAST. about the s/s youll only need them if you go with a stiff spring rate such as h&R springs. but if you get some thing with a proggressive spring rate like the eibach prokit, you wont need s/s for quite some time depending on how old your car is.

[Danger Dude]

Quote: Originally Posted by 232stang if you lower 1.5 inches yeah youll need the plates fast because if not your alignment will be off and your front tires will wear out FAST. about the s/s youll only need them if you go with a stiff spring rate such as h&R springs. but if you get some thing with a proggressive spring rate like the eibach prokit, you wont need s/s for quite some time depending on how old your car is.

Or you could spend half as much and get either Ford Motorsports "B" or "C" springs. B springs are progressive which will give you around 1.25 to 1.5 drop and a near stock ride while cruising but a stiffer ride when pushed. C springs will give you a 1.25 to 1.5 drop with stiffer ride all the time. I needed C&C plates for C springs but others have gotten away without them

[STEVE]

b spring would probobly be his best bet since he does noty want to install put new dampeners.

[I_luv_HP&trq]

I don't really mind putting on the c/c plates and having it correct if i have to. I'm just sick of people saying i NEED all this s### to go with it when i really don't. i don't want buyers remorse and be like "damn why the hell did i spend my months check on something i didn't really need".

So Danger Dude if i go with the "B" springs, i wouldn't need anything else to keep my car alligned? Or is it a different case for each car and the way people drive? i don't mind doing the bumpsteer or c/c if i can do it later on down the road. I'm trying not to cut corners when it comes to stuff for my car but it would be nice to save money if i can.

thanks for your help

[Danger Dude]

Quote: Originally Posted by I_luv_HP&trq I don't really mind putting on the c/c plates and having it correct if i have to. I'm just sick of people saying i NEED all this s### to go with it when i really don't. i don't want buyers remorse and be like "damn why the hell did i spend my months check on something i didn't really need". So Danger Dude if i go with the "B" springs, i wouldn't need anything else to keep my car alligned? Or is it a different case for each car and the way people drive? i don't mind doing the bumpsteer or c/c if i can do it later on down the road. I'm trying not to cut corners when it comes to stuff for my car but it would be nice to save money if i can. thanks for your help

No with B springs you will be safe and have a near stock ride when cruising and it will stiffen up when you decide to get into the corners. Much better than stock and somewhere around a 1.25 to 1.4 drop

There is nothing wrong with asking questions and dfeffinately nothing wrong with saving money any whay you can.

If you listen to the knowledge base here you will learn alot and save a lot of money and heartache

[I_luv_HP&trq]

ok cool. i'm trying to find where i can get the ford motorsport springs but can't find them for my car when i did a search... i'm confused when you say near stock ride height but it may drop 1.25 -1.4. so only in the corners it will drop that low? i'm going to be doing lot's of freeway traveling for school and would like my car to be more aerodynamic all the time.

and as far as listening goes i get confused because i have so many sources and not many of them agree. my brother goes to Wyotech and his professors have something different, then Ford says something else and people on this forum disagree and so on..... quite frustrating trying to learn things the right way.

[Danger Dude]

gefracing.com

[I_luv_HP&trq]

the ford racing B springs rate is 425/530 front and 200/300 rear. will that be enough?
and since it lowers the front 1.2 and rear 1 inch will i have to get some shims for the front so it's 1 inch all around?

http://www.gefracing.com/Merchant2/m...ct_Code=M5300B

[lowflyn]

Your front is higher than your rear from the factory if I remember correctly. And I needed c/c plates with my c springs, other ppl don't.

[Danger Dude]

Quote: Originally Posted by I_luv_HP&trq the ford racing B springs rate is 425/530 front and 200/300 rear. will that be enough? and since it lowers the front 1.2 and rear 1 inch will i have to get some shims for the front so it's 1 inch all around? http://www.gefracing.com/Merchant2/m...ct_Code=M5300B

Actually you will get a little more drop because those numbers usually reflect 79-93 stangs and not 94-98 or 99-04 which are heavier cars. I will also say the B spring might come with a dead coil to cut on the back springs to make it an even drop

[sublimegt]

I lowered mine 1.5 front and 1.0 rear... i didnt need any cc plates or anything else.. just springs and a good allignment.. you can call any company... and my tires have not worn fast at all... you only need cc plates if u lower it 2" or more... hope this helped some..

[Danger Dude]

Quote: Originally Posted by sublimegt I lowered mine 1.5 front and 1.0 rear... i didnt need any cc plates or anything else.. just springs and a good allignment.. you can call any company... and my tires have not worn fast at all... you only need cc plates if u lower it 2" or more... hope this helped some..

Actually it all depends on the car. I have "C" springs and after about 4 months I went to get aligned and I needed C&C plates. Also anything past 1.5 needs plates!!!

Why ask any company??? Some places have never installed them they only sell them. Here on ME we have REAL WORLD experience with many tons of members with C&C plates. Honestly I would take the word of a Tech here before most companies with the exception of RPM, SSM, RD and a few others

[lowflyn]

Needing c/c plates will be a car by car basis. Some need it, some don't. I didn't need them for about a month till the springs settled all the way out.

[WhiteStang99]

Mine needs CC plates after C springs, but they also have a cut coil.

[I_luv_HP&trq]

so how soon after i put springs on should i get my car aligned? I'm thinking right away but if it takes a couple months for them to settle in....then i don't know. i heard that some people hate cars that aren't stock ride height because it's harder to use their machine with the lazers to try and measure it exactly. so i don't want to piss off some dude twice and have him charge me a ton. lol

[lowflyn]

Normally wait around 500 to 1000 miles. Mine settled out in about 500, but I kept cutting little by little...lol

[tedness]

a lot of it also depends on what you plan to do w/ your car. me i wanted a good setup for handling corners and twists and anything like that so i opted for h&r super sports. very stiff to keep the car planted. and i have like -1 degree camber w/ c/c plates. its great but if you like the drag strip you won't need this kind of setup. c or b springs are a good combination for daily driving and drag use, but not the best for like autocross.

[Danger Dude]

If you live in a area of patchy or uneven roads springs for autocross sux ass. No if you dont mind bone jaring orextremely rough ride then stiff as hell springs might suit you. If you like cruising around with a somewhat comfortable ride do not get racing springs.

[tedness]

my ride already sux cuz of my ripped-up tires so it's no skin off mah nose for me.