Welcome to Mustang Evolution.
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10-19-2005, 02:29 PM
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#1
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Replacing U-joints?
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V6's are underestimated.
Join Date: May 2004
City: Cape Coral
State: Florida
Posts: 641
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Hey guys. Well I have a pretty strong belief that my U-joints are worn. When I decelerate my rear end vibrates, im guessing my U-joints are worn and loose, can anyone help me out and try and tell me the basics to replacing them or direct me to a article they know of that talks about doing this, thanks guys!
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K&N Filter | Pypes X-pipe with Mac flowpath mufflers | VMP Tuned
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10-19-2005, 09:03 PM
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#2
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Re: Replacing U-joints?
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Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2005
City: Fort Madison
State: Iowa
Posts: 66
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I have bad news for you.
You have a Mustang, and your U-joints need replaced. This will be a very frustrating time for you, and you will probably bleed a little bit. Or a lot. You will probably smash a finger or two, or a thumb and say words that will make your mother cry, your wife/gf blush, and your kids (if you have any) pass out from shock.
But the rest of it aint so bad. If you have a big bench vise, that will help.
The bolts that hold the DS on are 12mm 12pt, if they have never been off they will be tough.
after you jack up your car (and support it securely on jackstands) I would drain the trans or the fluid (just part of it)will leak everywhere when you take your DS out. This will probably be the first thing that makes you cuss.
Take off the DS. If you have a bench vise open the jaws enough so that you can fit the yoke on them.
Tap everything together first to break the rust from the retainer clips for the caps. Trying to get these out will proably make you say bad words too.
Put the yoke on the jaws of your vise and pound away with a hammer on the driveshaft behind the caps for the joint. The effort from doing this will make you swear. A brass hammer, if you have one, is best for this. Otherwise any old BFH will do.
If you do not have a vise, which I did not the first two times I did these, get a large wooden block and drill a hole in it that is slightly larger than the cap. Put that over the hole and take one of you sockets from your crappy $5 (made in some asian country) tool set and wail away on the cap opposite the one on the block.
I forgot to mention that the amount of hammering done, and everything slipping off the wooden blocks frequently, and hitting yourself with the BFH occasionally will make you emit such a plethora of blue words that you will sound like you are doing all the voice overs for a pornographic film.
when the caps come out, make sure you save any needle bearings that are still in decent shape, as you may lose or damage some when putting it back together.
Here are a couple tips;
1- Designate a day to do this your first time. The night before you do this, put your new U-joints in your freezer and leave them there until you are ready to put them in.
2- Strategic application of heat can make your job easier at times.
3- Soak everything with PBblaster the day before you do this, it might even work to put it on a few days ahead of time and keep applying so it has time to soak in.
4- Re-assembly can be much easier if you heat up the yokes and pull the frozen joints out of the freezer just before re-assembly. Be careful about the heating though, does not need to be red-hot, just warm enough (around 150*)
__________________
1990 Mustang LX 2.3Turbo
Turbo Swap, 5-Speed Swap,Adjustable Boost valve(set at 15psi), Walbro 255lph(high pressure) fuel pump, 35# Injectors, Garrett T-3 Turbocharger(.60/.63)
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10-20-2005, 07:24 AM
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#3
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Re: Replacing U-joints?
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V6's are underestimated.
Join Date: May 2004
City: Cape Coral
State: Florida
Posts: 641
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Hmm alright, it sounds like an all day task, im 17 so I wont have any kid's passing out from shock lol, I think I can do this but I dont, because ive never messed with anything under my car, I know that transmission fluid is in the drive shaft and what not, this would be my first time ever, do you think I can do this? Or maybe you can just come down here and help me out.  I know itll cost a crap load for me to take it somewhere and have it done, so im really steering in the direction of doing it myself, I'll try and go for it, thanks for the sweet article you wrote, it should help me out a greal deal because theres alot of crap I didnt think I would have to do when I am going to replace them, i'll probably order the U-Joints soon, ill come back on here and keep you posted, or if I **** anything up ill take a picture of it and ask what did I do wrong, haha. Thanks again man!
__________________
K&N Filter | Pypes X-pipe with Mac flowpath mufflers | VMP Tuned
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10-20-2005, 07:36 AM
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#4
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Re: Replacing U-joints?
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Ero-Sennin
Join Date: Jul 2003
City: Murfreesboro
State: Tennessee
Posts: 4,547
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take pics and do a write up for the site 
and to keep from having to take apart the yoke and shaft, you could just buy an aluminum ds. but that's money you may not have
good luck
__________________
I don't own a mustang at the moment 
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10-20-2005, 06:01 PM
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#5
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Re: Replacing U-joints?
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Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2005
City: Fort Madison
State: Iowa
Posts: 66
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ibanezplayer272
Hmm alright, it sounds like an all day task, im 17 so I wont have any kid's passing out from shock lol, I think I can do this but I dont, because ive never messed with anything under my car, I know that transmission fluid is in the drive shaft and what not, this would be my first time ever, do you think I can do this? Or maybe you can just come down here and help me out. I know itll cost a crap load for me to take it somewhere and have it done, so im really steering in the direction of doing it myself, I'll try and go for it, thanks for the sweet article you wrote, it should help me out a greal deal because theres alot of crap I didnt think I would have to do when I am going to replace them, i'll probably order the U-Joints soon, ill come back on here and keep you posted, or if I **** anything up ill take a picture of it and ask what did I do wrong, haha. Thanks again man!
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I think you can do it, we all had to start somewhere, I did my first u-joints once upon a time too.
There is no fluid in the driveshaft, it is in the transmission, but the DS holds it into the transmission.
As for the writeup, you are quite welcome, it is very satisfying once you fix something on your car and it works so much better afterwards.
I will keep an eye on this thread in case you have questions, if I don't happen to reply shoot me a PM and I will get back to you.
__________________
1990 Mustang LX 2.3Turbo
Turbo Swap, 5-Speed Swap,Adjustable Boost valve(set at 15psi), Walbro 255lph(high pressure) fuel pump, 35# Injectors, Garrett T-3 Turbocharger(.60/.63)
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10-20-2005, 09:34 PM
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#6
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Re: Replacing U-joints?
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V6's are underestimated.
Join Date: May 2004
City: Cape Coral
State: Florida
Posts: 641
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Sweet deal, much appreciated, I love these forums!
__________________
K&N Filter | Pypes X-pipe with Mac flowpath mufflers | VMP Tuned
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10-20-2005, 10:32 PM
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#7
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Re: Replacing U-joints?
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No more obstacles
Join Date: Jul 2005
City: Marin County, Nor Cal
State: California
Posts: 893
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 4sd4d
I have bad news for you.
You have a Mustang, and your U-joints need replaced. This will be a very frustrating time for you, and you will probably bleed a little bit. Or a lot. You will probably smash a finger or two, or a thumb and say words that will make your mother cry, your wife/gf blush, and your kids (if you have any) pass out from shock.
But the rest of it aint so bad. If you have a big bench vise, that will help.
The bolts that hold the DS on are 12mm 12pt, if they have never been off they will be tough.
after you jack up your car (and support it securely on jackstands) I would drain the trans or the fluid (just part of it)will leak everywhere when you take your DS out. This will probably be the first thing that makes you cuss.
Take off the DS. If you have a bench vise open the jaws enough so that you can fit the yoke on them.
Tap everything together first to break the rust from the retainer clips for the caps. Trying to get these out will proably make you say bad words too.
Put the yoke on the jaws of your vise and pound away with a hammer on the driveshaft behind the caps for the joint. The effort from doing this will make you swear. A brass hammer, if you have one, is best for this. Otherwise any old BFH will do.
If you do not have a vise, which I did not the first two times I did these, get a large wooden block and drill a hole in it that is slightly larger than the cap. Put that over the hole and take one of you sockets from your crappy $5 (made in some asian country) tool set and wail away on the cap opposite the one on the block.
I forgot to mention that the amount of hammering done, and everything slipping off the wooden blocks frequently, and hitting yourself with the BFH occasionally will make you emit such a plethora of blue words that you will sound like you are doing all the voice overs for a pornographic film.
when the caps come out, make sure you save any needle bearings that are still in decent shape, as you may lose or damage some when putting it back together.
Here are a couple tips;
1- Designate a day to do this your first time. The night before you do this, put your new U-joints in your freezer and leave them there until you are ready to put them in.
2- Strategic application of heat can make your job easier at times.
3- Soak everything with PBblaster the day before you do this, it might even work to put it on a few days ahead of time and keep applying so it has time to soak in.
4- Re-assembly can be much easier if you heat up the yokes and pull the frozen joints out of the freezer just before re-assembly. Be careful about the heating though, does not need to be red-hot, just warm enough (around 150*)
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 i love this write up.
__________________
99 Cobra: flowmasters, 18x9.5 cobra R's, soon to be tuned and geared. daily driver
99 V6:in avatar, Mac Cai, true duals/flowmaster 40's ,UDP, custom tuned, bullitt suspension 18" wheels...taken by mother nature
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10-20-2005, 10:35 PM
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#8
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Re: Replacing U-joints?
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postarama
Join Date: Aug 2003
City: Southaven
State: Mississippi
Posts: 24,294
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Yeh...the write up cracked me up as well.
__________________
"I'm not driving too fast...just flying too low"
Mine:
-87 ranger- broke
-03 SB Cobra vert- 2552 of 5082 Born 02/25/03
Our's:
90 7up vert - new project
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10-21-2005, 08:19 PM
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#9
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Re: Replacing U-joints?
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Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2005
City: Fort Madison
State: Iowa
Posts: 66
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Thanks guys, I tried to make it informative and entertaining.
It is also pretty true, as far as all the bad words part, when writing this up I remembered back to my first U-joint change.
I had to do it twice withing 6 months. The reason is that when I had the automatic in my first Stang the rear U-joint went out. I replaced it and then shortly afterwards did my automatic to manual swap.
This swap required a shorter driveshaft, so I got it from the donor vehicle. Did the tranny conversion and just a few weeks later, the same Forkin' U-joint went out.
I have done a few others since then. I don't need to swear a blue streak as much anymore, I mostly do it for form now.
__________________
1990 Mustang LX 2.3Turbo
Turbo Swap, 5-Speed Swap,Adjustable Boost valve(set at 15psi), Walbro 255lph(high pressure) fuel pump, 35# Injectors, Garrett T-3 Turbocharger(.60/.63)
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10-21-2005, 09:41 PM
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#10
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Re: Replacing U-joints?
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Taking life one day at a time
Join Date: May 2003
City: Simpsonville
State: South Carolina
Posts: 10,970
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U-Joints are a breeze as long as you have ramps and jack stands to raise the entire car or you have access to a lift. Tools required are some brass drifts and a BFH Big F**king Hammer, ring pliers, vise and a socket set. That is all I ever use
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Last edited by Danger Dude; 10-21-2005 at 09:43 PM.
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11-07-2005, 07:30 AM
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#11
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Re: Replacing U-joints?
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V6's are underestimated.
Join Date: May 2004
City: Cape Coral
State: Florida
Posts: 641
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SO when your U-Joint went out, we're you experiencing the things that I have happening?
__________________
K&N Filter | Pypes X-pipe with Mac flowpath mufflers | VMP Tuned
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11-07-2005, 09:16 AM
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#12
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Re: Replacing U-joints?
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God
Join Date: Jun 2003
City: DFW, TX
Posts: 3,189
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 4sd4d
I have bad news for you.
You have a Mustang, and your U-joints need replaced. This will be a very frustrating time for you, and you will probably bleed a little bit. Or a lot. You will probably smash a finger or two, or a thumb and say words that will make your mother cry, your wife/gf blush, and your kids (if you have any) pass out from shock.
But the rest of it aint so bad. If you have a big bench vise, that will help.
The bolts that hold the DS on are 12mm 12pt, if they have never been off they will be tough.
after you jack up your car (and support it securely on jackstands) I would drain the trans or the fluid (just part of it)will leak everywhere when you take your DS out. This will probably be the first thing that makes you cuss.
Take off the DS. If you have a bench vise open the jaws enough so that you can fit the yoke on them.
Tap everything together first to break the rust from the retainer clips for the caps. Trying to get these out will proably make you say bad words too.
Put the yoke on the jaws of your vise and pound away with a hammer on the driveshaft behind the caps for the joint. The effort from doing this will make you swear. A brass hammer, if you have one, is best for this. Otherwise any old BFH will do.
If you do not have a vise, which I did not the first two times I did these, get a large wooden block and drill a hole in it that is slightly larger than the cap. Put that over the hole and take one of you sockets from your crappy $5 (made in some asian country) tool set and wail away on the cap opposite the one on the block.
I forgot to mention that the amount of hammering done, and everything slipping off the wooden blocks frequently, and hitting yourself with the BFH occasionally will make you emit such a plethora of blue words that you will sound like you are doing all the voice overs for a pornographic film.
when the caps come out, make sure you save any needle bearings that are still in decent shape, as you may lose or damage some when putting it back together.
Here are a couple tips;
1- Designate a day to do this your first time. The night before you do this, put your new U-joints in your freezer and leave them there until you are ready to put them in.
2- Strategic application of heat can make your job easier at times.
3- Soak everything with PBblaster the day before you do this, it might even work to put it on a few days ahead of time and keep applying so it has time to soak in.
4- Re-assembly can be much easier if you heat up the yokes and pull the frozen joints out of the freezer just before re-assembly. Be careful about the heating though, does not need to be red-hot, just warm enough (around 150*)
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This is exactly how I did my u-joint swaps. Except I never put the things in the freezer. Might have helped. Did the old socket with BFH trick. Cussed a lot.
My personal favorite part of it was getting the caps off and all the f*cking needle bearings falling out. So it took me about an hour for each cap to get them all lined up and crap. I even thre the BFH and knocked a huge hole in the fence I was next to.
oh, and you don't have to order u-joints. Just go down to AutoZone and get some. Afterall, it is a "Universal" joint 
__________________
**I have sigs turned off, so if you're asking for advice based on your mods, I can't see them**
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11-07-2005, 10:30 AM
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#13
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Re: Replacing U-joints?
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Legacy Member
Join Date: Aug 2003
City: No where PA
Posts: 2,766
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that was an awsome write up!
__________________
Delta Sigma Phi
building better men since 1899
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11-11-2005, 08:16 PM
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#14
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Re: Replacing U-joints?
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Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2005
City: Fort Madison
State: Iowa
Posts: 66
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What happened when my U-joint went out (both times) was as follows;
I would hear a lout thunk from the back of my car when acellerating from a stop, then the noise was gone until stopped again.
Under deceleration there was sometimes a thunk, but always a weird vibration, then a thunk as I brought it up to speed.
Mine was at the extreme end of being worn out, only one of the caps had half the needle bearings in it, the others had dust and parts of bearings. One just had some rust that may have been part of bearings at one time.
__________________
1990 Mustang LX 2.3Turbo
Turbo Swap, 5-Speed Swap,Adjustable Boost valve(set at 15psi), Walbro 255lph(high pressure) fuel pump, 35# Injectors, Garrett T-3 Turbocharger(.60/.63)
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