what kind of aftermarket

[PlanoV8]

what kind of aftermarket has everyone put on thier cars so far and how do you like them??

I have a CAI from jms, custom tune to 93 octane. eibach springs, sequencing tail lights, flowmaster 40's, stripes and upgraded interior.

[Js281GT]

I love all my mods. I like the gears & drag radials the best. The n20 is nice too, but I am trying to not use it as much so my motor lasts. God I want a forged shortblock. I like your car btw. Like the stripes. I was thinkin of adding them to my car. Have you takin it to the track yet?

[Brent]

Quote: Originally Posted by PlanoV8 what kind of aftermarket has everyone put on thier cars so far and how do you like them?? I have a CAI from jms, custom tune to 93 octane. eibach springs, sequencing tail lights, flowmaster 40's, stripes and upgraded interior.

Is your car an Auto or manual?

[PlanoV8]

the car is a manual and yes I have taken it to the track once but the conditions were terrible. It had rained that afternoon the temp was 90 degrees with a humidity at 90%. it was like driving into a wet sponge.
my best was 13.9 but I know it will do better. I am currently in the process of purchasing a zex kit w/75 hp shot. just now finding out that what I thought was going to be a $600.00 purchase is now ranging closer to a $1,000.
570 kit, 119 bottle warmer, 110 perge kit, 250 professional tune. OUCH!!

[Js281GT]

Ya 75hp kit is perfect. I run 75-100 most the time at the track. I once ran 150hp jets at the track to get into the 11's, but I dont think I will ever do it again cause my intake was starting to crack. You wont have to worry about that. Just dont leave the bottle in the car on the street cause you will be tempted to use it all the time.

[wiarumas]

get gears

[SpectorV]

there are many many things out there. Just post what you would like to change and we can be more specific in where we send you and what not.

[FastrNU]

Well I have too many mods too list all but I have been through the ringer with most of them on these new beasts. I have swapped and tested for R&D many of the products that are out there today. Here's my opinions on what the best mods are:

Headers - JBA L/T (3" to be released in several weeks)
Exhaust - tie between borla & slp loudmouths
H-pipe over X-pipe
clutchmaster or centerforce clutch
JPC or MRI fuel rails
Shifter - hands down the pro 5.0 (I have had steeeda and hurst)
gears - 4.10 for manual - 3.73 for auto
drag tires - nothing works as good as the MT ET Streets (Not the MT ET Drag radial or any drag radial for that matter - same rubber compound as regular tires)
s/c - I have vortech but hands down the KB for the money
boost-a-pump - KB
brakes - baer
Nitrous - ZEX has the best kit but your stuck with purple - I personally like a custom NOS set-up
Suspension - steeda has a nice set-up but won't hold in the rear if you start making some serious power. I have steeda raxe in front and menco race in rear
JPC aluminum drive shaft - they have a nice 2-piece safety loop kit
Injector sizes - you only need to worry about 60 lbs. if your pushing serious power and you have to have the wiring harness adapter to make em work. For the average joe with s/c and/or nitrous, the 39 lbs. cobra injectors are your best bet and work great with the stock fuel rails.
Tuner - Predator tune - that's just my preference but both now have pretty much the same functions and you should go with whatever you or your tuner are comfortable with. For auto guys, SCT cause predator doesn't have the adjustments for shift points.
Engine rebuild - your best bet is keeping to the 3V and doing a 302 stroker - you CAN go to a 312 but it's pushing the displacement - 302 seems to be the best bet. The only other block that is working with these new cars (wiring harness) is the 1997 cobra 4V block - it is VERY similar to the 3V - just a little lighter and stronger and it's what ford modeled the 3V after.

If I missed something - let me know.

[Brent]

Quote: Originally Posted by FastrNU Well I have too many mods too list all but I have been through the ringer with most of them on these new beasts. I have swapped and tested for R&D many of the products that are out there today. Here's my opinions on what the best mods are: Headers - JBA L/T (3" to be released in several weeks) Exhaust - tie between borla & slp loudmouths H-pipe over X-pipe clutchmaster or centerforce clutch JPC or MRI fuel rails Shifter - hands down the pro 5.0 (I have had steeeda and hurst) gears - 4.10 for manual - 3.73 for auto drag tires - nothing works as good as the MT ET Streets (Not the MT ET Drag radial or any drag radial for that matter - same rubber compound as regular tires) s/c - I have vortech but hands down the KB for the money boost-a-pump - KB brakes - baer Nitrous - ZEX has the best kit but your stuck with purple - I personally like a custom NOS set-up Suspension - steeda has a nice set-up but won't hold in the rear if you start making some serious power. I have steeda raxe in front and menco race in rear JPC aluminum drive shaft - they have a nice 2-piece safety loop kit Injector sizes - you only need to worry about 60 lbs. if your pushing serious power and you have to have the wiring harness adapter to make em work. For the average joe with s/c and/or nitrous, the 39 lbs. cobra injectors are your best bet and work great with the stock fuel rails. Tuner - Predator tune - that's just my preference but both now have pretty much the same functions and you should go with whatever you or your tuner are comfortable with. For auto guys, SCT cause predator doesn't have the adjustments for shift points. Engine rebuild - your best bet is keeping to the 3V and doing a 302 stroker - you CAN go to a 312 but it's pushing the displacement - 302 seems to be the best bet. The only other block that is working with these new cars (wiring harness) is the 1997 cobra 4V block - it is VERY similar to the 3V - just a little lighter and stronger and it's what ford modeled the 3V after. If I missed something - let me know.

Quote: gears - 4.10 for manual - 3.73 for auto

Did you get that backwards are is there some reasoning for the shift to 4.10 manual and 3.73 auto?

[FastrNU]

I like the 4.10 period but several guys with autos were having problems with their torque converters when they ran with the 4.10's and we're actualy able to get better launches on the 3.73's.

[Brent]

Quote: Originally Posted by FastrNU I like the 4.10 period but several guys with autos were having problems with their torque converters when they ran with the 4.10's and we're actualy able to get better launches on the 3.73's.

Good info... I would have asssumed they would have been the same. What stall is the torque convertor on the 05 Gt's?

[SpectorV]

the more you mod the more issues your mods cause unless you are very careful in what you add and how you do it. Just do your research and do things right, dont cut corners, and you should be fine.

[PlanoV8]

Here is what I am looking for.. I am seriously thinking about the zex kit. I want horsepower when I need it but not to go overboard (supercharger is to expensive) I am looking at a 100 shot but what can expect with the zex kit?
how long does the bottle last, do you really need the bottle warmer, and if you have a blow off valve do you also need the perge kit?
What about the sudden jump in hp, will it cause problems with my rev limiter turned off?
just trying to get info
Steve

[SpectorV]

Im not an N20 person.. I would want the power more than just now and again. I would save up for a blower, in the end you will be happier probably.

[FastrNU]

Quote: Originally Posted by PlanoV8 Here is what I am looking for.. I am seriously thinking about the zex kit. I want horsepower when I need it but not to go overboard (supercharger is to expensive) I am looking at a 100 shot but what can expect with the zex kit? how long does the bottle last, do you really need the bottle warmer, and if you have a blow off valve do you also need the perge kit? What about the sudden jump in hp, will it cause problems with my rev limiter turned off? just trying to get info Steve

The bottle lasts depending on the size of the bottle and how much you use it. You should definitely have at least a bottle blanket and you don't have to have the bottle warmer but it is nice to have. You will have to have a blow off valve if you ever want to race at an NHRA tech track and you always have to purge your set-up before you use it, but the purge kit will just make it easier over doing it manually. And it is impossible to turn your rev limiter off with either diablo or sct. You can adjust it and bump it up - but you cannot turn it off. You should never set your rev limiter over 7000 rpm (preferably 6500 rpm) if you want to keep your engine intact. The limiter is their for your protection and you should only bump it up if absolutely needed to accomodate your peak HP range. From what you've told me about your mods, your rev limiter should stay at factory (6200 rpm). 100 shot has proven to be just fine on these stock bottom ends and is a quick and easy way to have power at your fingertips. Bear in mind, there is always more to the install than just buying the kit. You'll want a pressure guage so you know what's in your bottle, a bottle warmer, blanket, or both, and install of the purge kit, etc.. It will end up costing more than the $500 you think it will. Should be around $1200-$1500 for a good kit and install. You may want to think about saving for a s/c.

[a00v6stang]

if you do get zex, dont forget to turn it off after done using it..

[jones4stangs]

Quote: Originally Posted by FastrNU If I missed something - let me know.

How about pullies?